And I finally found it!!!!!
samedi 31 mai 2014
Great Resource
I started repairing mowers, pressure washers, and other small internal combustion gasoline engines as a side project. I find it very easy and rewarding. This website is a great resource. Thanks to all who share their information and experience here. -Mark
2-Stroke Toro Recycler BBC problems
Evening all,
Hoping for some help! Today was a a rather disappointing day. I've had my 2-stroke Toro sitting in the garage since I got the engine running. I took it out last week, added new gas mix and it fired right up. Drive system works and BBC would engage but in mildly thick grass the blade would slow to a stop. This is my first problem. What typically causes this?
I pulled the blade, shroud, and belt off. Belt looks...well I've seen worse. I'd like to get a new one but I'm not sure if the part numbers are correct since the mower has no ID tag. From what I could find researching this might be it:
Toro Lawnmower Lawn Mower BBC Blade Clutch Belt 42 0884 | eBay
The idler pulley seemed like the bearing was junk but after cleaning it it spins smooth again. However when I put it all back together and went to engage the system the bale had no resistance and while the drive kicked in the blade did not. After some trouble shooting I traced it down the the plastic bracket the cable mounts to in the bale assembly. Looks like I need a new one.
At least the piece had a part number on it.
Toro Hook Control 46 5540 | eBay
Second problem I'll need help with is a sheered bolt. Went to remove the 2 bolts holding the drive cover down. One of them came out fine but the other sheered. There's about half an inch of the bolt sticking out of the deck. Any tips to get it out? I've already got it soaking with PB blaster.
Needless to say this day has been a bummer. I was really looking forward to using the Toro now that I have a mulch plug for it. :frown: If anyone has any advice I'd greatly appreciate it.
If nothing else its at least looking better. Not a full restoration but enough to make it presentable. Cleaned the handlebars and use Rust-oleum to touch up the deck. Got a late evening shot of it.
Hoping for some help! Today was a a rather disappointing day. I've had my 2-stroke Toro sitting in the garage since I got the engine running. I took it out last week, added new gas mix and it fired right up. Drive system works and BBC would engage but in mildly thick grass the blade would slow to a stop. This is my first problem. What typically causes this?
I pulled the blade, shroud, and belt off. Belt looks...well I've seen worse. I'd like to get a new one but I'm not sure if the part numbers are correct since the mower has no ID tag. From what I could find researching this might be it:
Toro Lawnmower Lawn Mower BBC Blade Clutch Belt 42 0884 | eBay
The idler pulley seemed like the bearing was junk but after cleaning it it spins smooth again. However when I put it all back together and went to engage the system the bale had no resistance and while the drive kicked in the blade did not. After some trouble shooting I traced it down the the plastic bracket the cable mounts to in the bale assembly. Looks like I need a new one.
At least the piece had a part number on it.
Toro Hook Control 46 5540 | eBay
Second problem I'll need help with is a sheered bolt. Went to remove the 2 bolts holding the drive cover down. One of them came out fine but the other sheered. There's about half an inch of the bolt sticking out of the deck. Any tips to get it out? I've already got it soaking with PB blaster.
Needless to say this day has been a bummer. I was really looking forward to using the Toro now that I have a mulch plug for it. :frown: If anyone has any advice I'd greatly appreciate it.
If nothing else its at least looking better. Not a full restoration but enough to make it presentable. Cleaned the handlebars and use Rust-oleum to touch up the deck. Got a late evening shot of it.
2005 Scag Turf Tiger 52" 27 hp Kohler Is buying used the way to go???
In the market for a zero turn and everywhere ive looked ive been referred to Scags for their quality and durability. Ive been dealing with a Cub Cadet LT1045 that has just over 400 hours and has been a nightmare basically since it was new. Im wondering if a Scag TT with a 27 Kohler is a good mower to buy used. Just over 300 hours which is very low for being almost 10 years old, with a price tag of $6500. It seems like a lot of money for a mower that age but with the low hours I think it should be worth it? It seems like a lot more people lean towards the Kawasaki engines but Im not sure why because both seem to have minor issues like anything else. Is there any reason I should avoid the Kohler Command Pro 27hp? Also, are the decks the same gauge steel as far as thickness goes between the 52 and 61 inch cuts in 2005? Thanks
john deere 445 pto problem
I have a John Deere 445 that I am having pto problems with. I have replaced the pto switch and the solenoid. Where is the brake and reverse switched? Any advice on where I should go from here?
Newbie with a New Husqvarna MZ52 LE - it's SA-WEET!
Hey, new to the forum! I just had my new 2014 Husqvarna MZ52 LE delivered yesterday. My first ever zero turn for about 2.5 acres of lawn (hilly). Took it out for first time today. My first 10 minutes (if caught on tape) would have probably won me a funniest home video award. But after that got a hang of driving one of these beasts and got a better feel for it as time went on. The Huskie cuts absolutely amazingly (was using a cub cadet GT from 2003ish). After a couple more cuts I think I'll be saving a lot of time vs the GT!
no power
I have an electric B & D 18" mulcher. I used it in tall grass for about 30 min. Stopped to re-arrange the cable and it would not start. Next day I pulled the cover off blew out all the debris and it ran for about 30 min. Unplugged it to move to the front of the house and it would not start. I checked for power. Any suggestions are appreciated.
cub cadet
i have a cub cadet 50 inch cut. i think im having some kind of a electrical issue. my volt meter screen will come on when starting and it starts then it will die when the motor starts to die the volt meter screen goes off. it does this every time you start it.
2002 Yard Machine
Hello......I have a 2002 Yard Machine 21hp 46" Model # 14BJ845062 that has started giving me problems. I have a fairly steep hill in front of the house that I mow up then across then down. Been mowing his way since the mower was new. Yesterday when going down the hill the rear wheels locked up and it wouldn't move. I'm always in 1st gear going downhill and do not touch the brake/clutch. The only way to get it to move was to force it into neutral and ride it to the bottom. Once it's back on level ground it goes into gear and everything seems normal. This old machine has served me well and I don't want to get rid of it, so any advice on what's happened would be appreciated.
Fixing up my Silver Eagle
I'm starting this thread to document my adventures with my Silver Eagle LT2500-50D. So far, I've only posted an introductory thread and one about the electrical gremlins I was experiencing.
Here's a pic from the PO's craigslist ad:
It was pretty darned clean and I found no "wet" leaks. I got maybe one or two cuts out of it before I started having the electrical problems. A corroded fuse socket and melted fuse was keeping the rectifier from charging the battery, the key switch had worn and possibly burnt contacts, and the starter had a failing solenoid. I think these problems were caused by the PO leaving it parked in his carport (exposure to moisture) and installing a battery with insufficient cranking amps. After replacing the key switch, cleaning the fuse holders, replacing fuses, and replacing the battery and starter, I haven't had any problems with starting this thing for the past 2 years. Every weekend, it fires up in less than a second of twisting the key. I've also replaced the belts. Basically, I've re-done everything the previous owner did to "sweeten the deal" when he put it up for sale. He said it had new belts, new battery, and new deck rollers. The belts were some cheap garbage that frayed after the first few cuts and were actually too big, and the deck rollers were too small in diameter. In addition, the deck was bent downward on the LH side, making that roller drag and dig C-shapes everywhere I turned. It looked like someone maybe backed over it with a truck or something. A few months ago, I removed and tore down the deck to repair this.
I didn't get a "before" pic, but you can see how much metal I had to remove to get all the bent/warped portions out:
Used 10 gauge plate I had laying around to reconstruct the top and front. I made a few passes on the front top edge so I'd have enough metal to shape it to match the curve of the original stamped metal. That dark area on the top behind the roller bracket isn't a low spot in the metal, the primer was still wet there. I did a better job on blending the new metal-to-old metal joints where it would be exposed and not hidden under the black plate that bolts over it:
Painted and reassembled. Like it never even happened:
I found some OEM DC deck rollers from a place in Florida, and made some new roller bolts from extra long carriage bolts.
Here's a pic from the PO's craigslist ad:
It was pretty darned clean and I found no "wet" leaks. I got maybe one or two cuts out of it before I started having the electrical problems. A corroded fuse socket and melted fuse was keeping the rectifier from charging the battery, the key switch had worn and possibly burnt contacts, and the starter had a failing solenoid. I think these problems were caused by the PO leaving it parked in his carport (exposure to moisture) and installing a battery with insufficient cranking amps. After replacing the key switch, cleaning the fuse holders, replacing fuses, and replacing the battery and starter, I haven't had any problems with starting this thing for the past 2 years. Every weekend, it fires up in less than a second of twisting the key. I've also replaced the belts. Basically, I've re-done everything the previous owner did to "sweeten the deal" when he put it up for sale. He said it had new belts, new battery, and new deck rollers. The belts were some cheap garbage that frayed after the first few cuts and were actually too big, and the deck rollers were too small in diameter. In addition, the deck was bent downward on the LH side, making that roller drag and dig C-shapes everywhere I turned. It looked like someone maybe backed over it with a truck or something. A few months ago, I removed and tore down the deck to repair this.
I didn't get a "before" pic, but you can see how much metal I had to remove to get all the bent/warped portions out:
Used 10 gauge plate I had laying around to reconstruct the top and front. I made a few passes on the front top edge so I'd have enough metal to shape it to match the curve of the original stamped metal. That dark area on the top behind the roller bracket isn't a low spot in the metal, the primer was still wet there. I did a better job on blending the new metal-to-old metal joints where it would be exposed and not hidden under the black plate that bolts over it:
Painted and reassembled. Like it never even happened:
I found some OEM DC deck rollers from a place in Florida, and made some new roller bolts from extra long carriage bolts.
i blew up my transaxle
hi i have a simplicity coronet with the 8.5hp Briggs & Stratton motor and a peerless 915-016D 5 speed. I cracked that lower case on the transaxle I tried tigging it that cracks. Put the axle back under the mower tried to drive the mower to see if my fix worked. When I put in gear and let go of the brake i got a god afoul noise of grinding gears. So put it in neutral shut off the mower and looked at the axle. The lower case is no split in two! I wanna know what peerless transaxle will work in my mower? ( cause there are all kinds of peerless transaxles but i can never fin mine!):confused2:
Craftsman Riding Mower - Engine turns but won't start, ready to throw in towel
Hey all, I'm a novice mechanic but hoping to fix my riding mower without putting much money into it. It's old and just might be time for a new mower.
Craftsman 917252560 - Briggs & Stratton 19HP Twin I/C Gold
Mower started on first try and then immediately died 5-10 seconds later. Now it just cranks and doesn't turn over.
I've taken apart carburetor and cleaned everything I could. I also replaced the inline fuel filter. I'm really wondering if it's a problem with my fuel line. I'm not sure if my mower has a fuel pump or not. When I took off the fuel filter I had clamped the hose running from the gas tank to avoid a big leak but unclamped it to check it and noticed there is no fuel coming on it's own. Is that normal? Does the fuel pump pull the fuel from the tank. I tried starting it again and checked the new fuel filter and there was no gas inside it.
Is this a broken fuel pump or something else? There is gas in the tank and nothing leaking anywhere. Please help!!!
Craftsman 917252560 - Briggs & Stratton 19HP Twin I/C Gold
Mower started on first try and then immediately died 5-10 seconds later. Now it just cranks and doesn't turn over.
I've taken apart carburetor and cleaned everything I could. I also replaced the inline fuel filter. I'm really wondering if it's a problem with my fuel line. I'm not sure if my mower has a fuel pump or not. When I took off the fuel filter I had clamped the hose running from the gas tank to avoid a big leak but unclamped it to check it and noticed there is no fuel coming on it's own. Is that normal? Does the fuel pump pull the fuel from the tank. I tried starting it again and checked the new fuel filter and there was no gas inside it.
Is this a broken fuel pump or something else? There is gas in the tank and nothing leaking anywhere. Please help!!!
isolator block with choke controls
Hi, I have taken the carburetor of my Honda HRR2168VKA serial # MZCG-8583097 apart and have it all clean and ready to put back on the mower.
Questions:
The isolator block with attached choke controls.
1. On mine, the slivery metel piece on top, which is on a hinge with two springs does not snap back into a relaxed position after I turn it so the springs are streched. I need to manually move it back. Is this the way it should be or is it sticking open and need something done to fix it?
2. When lining up all the parts....carb, isolator gasket, isolator block with attached choke controls....does the metel piece, with the springs, on top of the isolator block need to fit into the parts on top of the carburetor in a certain way or does it sort of float above the choke parts?
Thank you,
Kate
Questions:
The isolator block with attached choke controls.
1. On mine, the slivery metel piece on top, which is on a hinge with two springs does not snap back into a relaxed position after I turn it so the springs are streched. I need to manually move it back. Is this the way it should be or is it sticking open and need something done to fix it?
2. When lining up all the parts....carb, isolator gasket, isolator block with attached choke controls....does the metel piece, with the springs, on top of the isolator block need to fit into the parts on top of the carburetor in a certain way or does it sort of float above the choke parts?
Thank you,
Kate
Starter solenoid
Another problem I am having is when I turn the key to start the motor the starter solenoid makes a buzzing kind of noise I don't know if it is bad or just maybe a bad connection somewhere? the battery seems good and is holding a charge and is fairly new and was maintained over the winter! is there a way to test the solenoid???
John deer LA 120 problem with pto going forward
Hi all I have a John Deere LA120 I joined this site to see what other people have problems with this model as it seems that the LA 120 has some issues.
Currently I have an intermittent problem with the PTO works for a while then stops and will only work in reverse. have checked all the switches and now
I am investigating the wiring harness.
Currently I have an intermittent problem with the PTO works for a while then stops and will only work in reverse. have checked all the switches and now
I am investigating the wiring harness.
Bogging down
I have a craftsman LT4000,it ran and cut as it should but now I can only keep it running at full choke and bogs down when I engage the blades. Any ideas
2013 YT46KS Won't start after winter
Ok here's the story. I bought the tractor last April and it worked great all season. I put it away in my shed late fall with fuel in the tank (w/ stabilizer added) and the battery still hooked up. I went out a few weeks ago to get it set up and the battery light was red which I figured it would be. I got a Husqvarna charger that I plugged into the charging port on the tractor and connected it to a long extension cord that got plugged into the house (no power in the shed). I left it until it was fully charged but because of family/work/weather/vacation I wasn't able to try and start it until this morning. The battery light was green but it wouldn't start. I plugged it back into the charger and its been charging around an hour now. I tried to start it while it was plugged in several times but it wouldn't start and the battery light changed to yellow or red then back to green very quickly. Is it me? The battery? Something else? Help! My lawn needs to be mowed! The weeds are over a foot high!
Thanks,
Dave
Edit: the model is a YT46LS I typed this on my phone.
Thanks,
Dave
Edit: the model is a YT46LS I typed this on my phone.
Bad Boy MZ Creeps in Neutral
I have a Bad Boy MZ that creeps in neutral. Has anyone ever tried to adjust the steering linkage on one of these? Thanks.
Problems
B&S Family 5BSXS.1901VE 276005
It's a 7.0 HP On a Husqvarna push mower.
Here's the story. I start mowing the other day and it's running fine but not cutting real good so I pull the blade to sharpen it. I end up running to work and by the time I get home it's late so I throw the dull blade back on and it won't start. The next day I pull the carb and clean, clean the spark, change the filter, replace the gas. After a lot of pulls I can get the unit to run but only half speed. I open the throttle, spray gas in the carb nothing helps. It will run half speed for a minute or so and then backfire and die. Any ideas?
It's a 7.0 HP On a Husqvarna push mower.
Here's the story. I start mowing the other day and it's running fine but not cutting real good so I pull the blade to sharpen it. I end up running to work and by the time I get home it's late so I throw the dull blade back on and it won't start. The next day I pull the carb and clean, clean the spark, change the filter, replace the gas. After a lot of pulls I can get the unit to run but only half speed. I open the throttle, spray gas in the carb nothing helps. It will run half speed for a minute or so and then backfire and die. Any ideas?
ariens trac team mower help!!!!
Hello All,
New to forum and having trouble locating old Ariens trac team parts if possible.I'm rebuilding the 26" walk behind mower attachment and looking for the front caster wheels and spindles?Any help would be great.Thanks Jim
New to forum and having trouble locating old Ariens trac team parts if possible.I'm rebuilding the 26" walk behind mower attachment and looking for the front caster wheels and spindles?Any help would be great.Thanks Jim
Hydraulic Stuff(Valves, Pumps, Cylinders etc.)
I've been in the hydraulic business for over 30 years and have accumulated a lot of spare parts if anyone is in need. Email me and we can work some thing out??
Thanks.........
Thanks.........
My Backhoe(Homemade-CadPlans)
This is the backhoe I built several years ago from Cadplans. Mind you, I changed a few things and you will notice most of the pictures are the unit ready to tow, so the wheels are located in the wrong location for towing??
the pics show my 9" bucket w/o teeth. I also have a 14" bucket, which has the teeth attached(pics coming next post?:laughing:)
the pics show my 9" bucket w/o teeth. I also have a 14" bucket, which has the teeth attached(pics coming next post?:laughing:)
Tires Bigger Tires for Snapper Push Mower, Model 7800828
Hi All,
I purchased a push mower last summer to mow just my front lawn (it's a bit awkward to use my rider due to flower beds). The problem I have is the maximum cutting height of the push mower is 4". I didn't realize it's not as high as I needed when I bought it. Too late now. I believe 4" is long enough to keep the grass in nice shape, but I like to leave it a little longer. Just seems to look better.
I'm wondering if it's possible to buy wheels that are bigger, like 10 x 2 versus the 8 x 2 ones it comes with. Does anyone know if it's possible? If Snapper doesn't make them, are there any generic wheels that might fit?
I called the service department at the local Snapper dealer and they had never heard of someone trying to use bigger wheels to raise the deck. Seems like a reasonable option to me. What do you think?
Lastly, I don't know if this is the right forum for my questions. If it isn't, can someone please tell me where to post?
Here's the mower information:
Model Number: 7800828
Description: S22675
I appreciate the help!
Thanks,
Tyler
I purchased a push mower last summer to mow just my front lawn (it's a bit awkward to use my rider due to flower beds). The problem I have is the maximum cutting height of the push mower is 4". I didn't realize it's not as high as I needed when I bought it. Too late now. I believe 4" is long enough to keep the grass in nice shape, but I like to leave it a little longer. Just seems to look better.
I'm wondering if it's possible to buy wheels that are bigger, like 10 x 2 versus the 8 x 2 ones it comes with. Does anyone know if it's possible? If Snapper doesn't make them, are there any generic wheels that might fit?
I called the service department at the local Snapper dealer and they had never heard of someone trying to use bigger wheels to raise the deck. Seems like a reasonable option to me. What do you think?
Lastly, I don't know if this is the right forum for my questions. If it isn't, can someone please tell me where to post?
Here's the mower information:
Model Number: 7800828
Description: S22675
I appreciate the help!
Thanks,
Tyler
My Kubota-BX2200D
I've had mine about 5 years.
These are some of the attachments I built from scratchP1010032.jpgP1000919.jpgP1010039.jpgArcticPlow 001.jpgArcticPlow 014.jpg.
I've been in the hydraulics business for over 30 years, and welcome anyone to contact me, who has problems or in need of some stuff for projects such as valves and cylinders etc.
These are some of the attachments I built from scratchP1010032.jpgP1000919.jpgP1010039.jpgArcticPlow 001.jpgArcticPlow 014.jpg.
I've been in the hydraulics business for over 30 years, and welcome anyone to contact me, who has problems or in need of some stuff for projects such as valves and cylinders etc.
head bolt torque sequence
Hi all! I have a toro wheel horse lawn tractor that I am in the process of replacing a blown head gasket. does anyone know the proper head bolt torque sequence? I have looked everywhere to no avail! it is a 1996 14hp Briggs model# 28N707 0131-01 I have looked on Briggs site and all I can find is the torque spec not the sequence? Thanks for your help!
Oil change HRX217VKA ??
Just changed the break-in oil after the first recommended 5 hrs. The oil had a metallic look to it which I would assume is normal? I'm using Mobil-1 10/30,What are peoples thoughts here on using synthetic oil. This mower is like a Cadillac compared to my 8 yr. old Toro Super recycler. All of the Honda features out perform the Toro on every aspect. Great mower the more I use it the more I like it!
HELP PLEASE
After running something over and breaking the belt, my engine will not start. The carb is clean and rebuilt, getting spark from both plugs, what else can I check to get it starting? Its a troy-bilt with a 22hp B&S.
Repairs MTD Shredder/Chipper/Mulcher 5HP Tecumseh - disassemble and change engine?
Hello,
I have a MTD Yard Machine Shredder/Chipper/Mulcher (245 643D000) with a 5HP Tecumseh engine that isnt working I want to disassemble it and change the engine, since Tecumseh spare parts are hard to find and it is very old. Anyone removed an engine from this type of shredder before?
So far I have removed the rotating hopper (ref no. 21), Flail Housing Assembly LH (ref no. 41) and the blade (ref no. 1), but how do I remove the Impeller Assy Comp (ref no.12) out? I thought if I remove the blade then it would come out? Do I need to screw it out and what is holding it to the engine shaft? I have attached the diagrams.
Thanks
I have a MTD Yard Machine Shredder/Chipper/Mulcher (245 643D000) with a 5HP Tecumseh engine that isnt working I want to disassemble it and change the engine, since Tecumseh spare parts are hard to find and it is very old. Anyone removed an engine from this type of shredder before?
So far I have removed the rotating hopper (ref no. 21), Flail Housing Assembly LH (ref no. 41) and the blade (ref no. 1), but how do I remove the Impeller Assy Comp (ref no.12) out? I thought if I remove the blade then it would come out? Do I need to screw it out and what is holding it to the engine shaft? I have attached the diagrams.
Thanks
New here from S GA
While I'm new here, I'm a fluid member on another forum but not a lawn forum..so I'll get down to it. 04 Dixie Chopper XWF 2700, bought it with just 95 hrs on it and mow my lawn and a few others. Great mower couldn't ask for a better bang for the buck:wink:
I've mowed for lawn professionals just decided to get something for myself...earn a couple bucks along the way and no worries while doing it. Glad to be here...well pics then..
I've mowed for lawn professionals just decided to get something for myself...earn a couple bucks along the way and no worries while doing it. Glad to be here...well pics then..
vendredi 30 mai 2014
Honda HRR216VKA
I bought this mower about a mth ago. I have used it maybe 4 times since, the last time I used it, the smart drive seems to have stopped working. Although when I press the control all the way down, the rear wheels does rotate but the wheels won't rotate at the lower speed control?? I would greatly appreciate any input on this issue, thanks
6hp Tecumseh horizontal compression issue?
I did a complete rebuild on a 6 hp Tecumseh OHH60 horizontal. Drained the oil and noticed some plastic pieces so I opened the crankcase and the governer gear was busted. I replaced that and dropped the valve lifters while I had it opened up and cleaned them. I put a new crankcase gasket on and closed it up. I removed the valve cover to take the head off. I cleaned up the piston head and valves, put a new head gasket on and closed it up. I never removed the piston. Cleaned the carb up, twice over. Tried to start it, it seemed to have very weak compression and would not turn over. I checked the plug, good spark but couldn't smell any gas on the plug or in the cylinder. To rule out some simple timing issues I removed the flywheel and replaced the flywheel key. I removed the valve cover and realized the valves didn't have any clearance, way too tight, so I loosened them up and set the proper clearance. I closed it up and tried and the compression was very strong. This is where I ran into an issue that I haven't encountered before. When I pulled the cord I could barely pull it through the compression stroke. I sprayed a bit of starter fluid in the carb and when the fluid got into the cylinder and I pulled through the compression stroke it and got an ugly surprise. It fired and yanked the cord back into recoiler but did not start. The spark definitely lit the starter fluid but I'm guessing something is messed up with the valves and the exhaust had nowhere to go. I'm sure I made a rookie mistake and I'm probably overlooking the obvious. I may still have a fuel deliver problem but I can't worry about that until I can get it to turn over correctly. Some help here would be greatly appreciated.
Best time to buy?
Hello,
I have somewhat of a dilemma. We recently moved into a new home with about an acre of lawn. We had planned on using the self propelled toro walk behind for this summer and purchase a tractor of some variety at the end of the season. The push mower died last week and I have been unable to get it to start (replaced plug, replaced armature, new gas, not even a hint of starting even with starter spray).
The dilemma is: do we bite the bullet sooner than planned? We can take the push mower in to see what is up and set a limit on how much to spend to get it fixed. Pay a service to cut until we have some kind of replacement but that is money that could be spent towards the new mower.
We really need a ride on of some kind, not only for the amount of lawn, but for other maintenance on 4 acres. We cannot always use the big tractor (2500#) without destroying the lawn.
When do sales/incentives typically apply? If we had to bite the bullet now, it might be a lawn tractor in the T2200 or similar line. if we can hold off till fall, might be able to swing a zero turn. Value of each?
Any and all opinions welcome.
Tom
I have somewhat of a dilemma. We recently moved into a new home with about an acre of lawn. We had planned on using the self propelled toro walk behind for this summer and purchase a tractor of some variety at the end of the season. The push mower died last week and I have been unable to get it to start (replaced plug, replaced armature, new gas, not even a hint of starting even with starter spray).
The dilemma is: do we bite the bullet sooner than planned? We can take the push mower in to see what is up and set a limit on how much to spend to get it fixed. Pay a service to cut until we have some kind of replacement but that is money that could be spent towards the new mower.
We really need a ride on of some kind, not only for the amount of lawn, but for other maintenance on 4 acres. We cannot always use the big tractor (2500#) without destroying the lawn.
When do sales/incentives typically apply? If we had to bite the bullet now, it might be a lawn tractor in the T2200 or similar line. if we can hold off till fall, might be able to swing a zero turn. Value of each?
Any and all opinions welcome.
Tom
Mower deck Ferris ProCut S mower deck
I have a Ferris ProCut S and the mower deck with not engage also when I try to engage the mower the hour meter flash 00834
Hello
I am a retired mechanic/ teacher. Have a Kawasaki powered John Deere walk behind mower. Present challenge a DR string trimmer mower that hasn't run for years. Biggest challenge so far- getting the passages in the carburetor opened back up.
I live in northern Iowa and head south when it gets really cold...
I live in northern Iowa and head south when it gets really cold...
Thinking about a Husqvarna mz5424 or Kubota Z122E
I'm in the process of purchasing a zero turn. I can get a great deal on a Husqvarna mz5424 and the dealer is excellent or I can pick up a Kubota Z122E. The Kubota will run about $400 more. What are your experiences with these units?
Thanks Rick
Thanks Rick
squeaks while mowing
I have a 3 or 4 year old John Deer 105 this year it has started to squeak while mowing. It seems to be coming from under the seat. I have put some grease the axels any greased all the fittings on the mowing deck I am at a loss any ideas
new
Hi my user name is Tuffy thank`s for letting me join I have a 1554 cub cadet 2008 looked up about the mower deck to see problems other people are having couldn`t remember how to tighten up the blade my mined isn`t working like it use to see the pictures and figured out how to fiz it went to a dealer and they couldn`t tell me thank`s later
Enter “For Earth, For Life” Photo Contest for a Chance to Win Eco-Friendly Kubota Mow
One Person Will Win a Kubota ZP330 Eco-Friendly, Propane-Powered, Zero-Turn Mower
Read this article on LawnWorld
Read this article on LawnWorld
Kubota Enhances Z300 Line with New Diesel Zero-Turn Mower
Kubota Tractor Corp. introduces a new member to its Z300 Series zero-turn mower fleet with the ZD326H. Designed for turf care professionals and large property owners alike, the new diesel model is built Kubota-tough to handle long days of dedicated landscaping with ease.
Read this article on LawnWorld
Read this article on LawnWorld
From North Carolina
I have a mower I bought new in 1990. It has Toro and Wheelhorse decal on it. I have seen pictures of one with Kubota decal on it. Dealer said in 1990 why it had both and you all have heard all that. Everywhere I read about it folks say it is no good and never was any good and to run it over a cliff. Well I mow over 4 acres with it and have been for 24 years now. Some of the yard is as ruff as it was when it was farm land and very little has been made into a proper yard. Yes it has had to have repairs made but so has everything else I have. Every time I google the model some folks say Dixie Chopper made it. Others say no way. Seems people hate the model I have but love Dixie Choppers. When I need parts I go to Dixie Chopper 5020 Sidewinder (1983-1988) All parts I have needed are the same.
So for those who want to know what mower I have it's a 724Z. Just like the Toro Proline. It and Dixie Chopper have chain drive.
So I say Dixie Chopper made the sorry Toro/Wheel horse and it's a very good mower. Some folks tear up a crowbar. Just so you know I'm 76 and retired independent garage owner operator for 50 years.
So for those who want to know what mower I have it's a 724Z. Just like the Toro Proline. It and Dixie Chopper have chain drive.
So I say Dixie Chopper made the sorry Toro/Wheel horse and it's a very good mower. Some folks tear up a crowbar. Just so you know I'm 76 and retired independent garage owner operator for 50 years.
Mower deck mtd--power take off will not engage blades
Pushing the PTO lever forward will not engage blades. Belt seems ok and it moves, but it seems the belt does not get tight enough. The blades and spindles are not frozen. HELP!
New Member
hello
New member here, a picture was requested so here it is, my 1991 HR215 Honda, still running fine and thanks to the site I can now adjust my valves for the first time.
Bought 8- March-1991
New member here, a picture was requested so here it is, my 1991 HR215 Honda, still running fine and thanks to the site I can now adjust my valves for the first time.
Bought 8- March-1991
Buying Advice 2002 321D, Invest in what I have or upgrade to a new machine?
Hey everyone. I'm a residential homeowner and I cut about 4 acres of yard. A couple years ago, I bought what I thought would be a mower that would last for many years. I bought a used 2002 model Grasshopper 321d with 850 hours. This will be my third summer with the mower. So far, I've had lots of little problems. First year was electrical problems with the PTO switch and various shorts. Last year it was blown hydro lines that were dry rotted and then more PTO switch problems. This year, it is back to more PTO switch problems. I'm also getting a fuel leak around what I think is the fuel pump on the engine. After mowing, the pump will have weeped fuel all around itself and is covered in gooey dirt/diesel sludge. The engine still runs just fine,but I see this becoming a problem in the future.
The problem is that my Grasshopper dealer is very slow on service so I'm usually out of a mower for about 3 weeks each trip. So that puts me in a bind because I don't like to borrow equipment from friends and family to mow while mine is in the shop and I don't like paying to have it mowed either.
Now I love everything else about the machine. I love the diesel vs gas. Fuel consumption is noticeably less than a gas. The machine is very wide and very heavy and sticks to hillsides like glue. The rear tires are very wide and get great traction. I rarely spin out. When other neighbors are getting stuck, my machine just eases through without any problem. The controls are smooth and not jerky, even when mowing in full throttle. The cut is amazing and makes my yard full of weeds and junk grass look like a golf course.
I'm just trying to decide if at the end of this season if I should let my dealer keep my mower over the winter and have them go over the whole machine with a fine tooth comb and replace anything that is 50% worn or more before it breaks. Have them replace bushing, bearings, etc and then have then completely repaint and re-decal the entire machine. I'm estimating $1500 to $2500 for all of this work. If that's not an accurate estimate, please feel free to correct me.
So should I invest in my old machine in hopes of heading off future problems or should I save up my money and sell my old machine to buy a brand new machine for next summer? My current machine had 975 hours.
The problem is that my Grasshopper dealer is very slow on service so I'm usually out of a mower for about 3 weeks each trip. So that puts me in a bind because I don't like to borrow equipment from friends and family to mow while mine is in the shop and I don't like paying to have it mowed either.
Now I love everything else about the machine. I love the diesel vs gas. Fuel consumption is noticeably less than a gas. The machine is very wide and very heavy and sticks to hillsides like glue. The rear tires are very wide and get great traction. I rarely spin out. When other neighbors are getting stuck, my machine just eases through without any problem. The controls are smooth and not jerky, even when mowing in full throttle. The cut is amazing and makes my yard full of weeds and junk grass look like a golf course.
I'm just trying to decide if at the end of this season if I should let my dealer keep my mower over the winter and have them go over the whole machine with a fine tooth comb and replace anything that is 50% worn or more before it breaks. Have them replace bushing, bearings, etc and then have then completely repaint and re-decal the entire machine. I'm estimating $1500 to $2500 for all of this work. If that's not an accurate estimate, please feel free to correct me.
So should I invest in my old machine in hopes of heading off future problems or should I save up my money and sell my old machine to buy a brand new machine for next summer? My current machine had 975 hours.
Introduction
New to the site. Just gleaning information. Running an old White R-10 and a fleet of miscellaneous mowers for various family members and neighbors. When I can't find a manual. I look here.
What should I do? Invest in what I have or upgrade to a new machine?
Hey everyone. I'm a residential homeowner and I cut about 4 acres of yard. A couple years ago, I bought what I thought would be a mower that would last for many years. I bought a used 2002 model Grasshopper 321d with 850 hours. This will be my third summer with the mower. So far, I've had lots of little problems. First year was electrical problems with the PTO switch and various shorts. Last year it was blown hydro lines that were dry rotted and then more PTO switch problems. This year, it is back to more PTO switch problems. I'm also getting a fuel leak around what I think is the fuel pump on the engine. After mowing, the pump will have weeped fuel all around itself and is covered in gooey dirt/diesel sludge. The engine still runs just fine,but I see this becoming a problem in the future.
The problem is that my Grasshopper dealer is very slow on service so I'm usually out of a mower for about 3 weeks each trip. So that puts me in a bind because I don't like to borrow equipment from friends and family to mow while mine is in the shop and I don't like paying to have it mowed either.
Now I love everything else about the machine. I love the diesel vs gas. Fuel consumption is noticeably less than a gas. The machine is very wide and very heavy and sticks to hillsides like glue. The rear tires are very wide and get great traction. I rarely spin out. When other neighbors are getting stuck, my machine just eases through without any problem. The controls are smooth and not jerky, even when mowing in full throttle. The cut is amazing and makes my yard full of weeds and junk grass look like a golf course.
I'm just trying to decide if at the end of this season if I should let my dealer keep my mower over the winter and have them go over the whole machine with a fine tooth comb and replace anything that is 50% worn or more before it breaks. Have them replace bushing, bearings, etc and then have then completely repaint and re-decal the entire machine. I'm estimating $1500 to $2500 for all of this work. If that's not an accurate estimate, please feel free to correct me.
So should I invest in my old machine in hopes of heading off future problems or should I save up my money and sell my old machine to buy a brand new machine for next summer? My current machine had 975 hours.
The problem is that my Grasshopper dealer is very slow on service so I'm usually out of a mower for about 3 weeks each trip. So that puts me in a bind because I don't like to borrow equipment from friends and family to mow while mine is in the shop and I don't like paying to have it mowed either.
Now I love everything else about the machine. I love the diesel vs gas. Fuel consumption is noticeably less than a gas. The machine is very wide and very heavy and sticks to hillsides like glue. The rear tires are very wide and get great traction. I rarely spin out. When other neighbors are getting stuck, my machine just eases through without any problem. The controls are smooth and not jerky, even when mowing in full throttle. The cut is amazing and makes my yard full of weeds and junk grass look like a golf course.
I'm just trying to decide if at the end of this season if I should let my dealer keep my mower over the winter and have them go over the whole machine with a fine tooth comb and replace anything that is 50% worn or more before it breaks. Have them replace bushing, bearings, etc and then have then completely repaint and re-decal the entire machine. I'm estimating $1500 to $2500 for all of this work. If that's not an accurate estimate, please feel free to correct me.
So should I invest in my old machine in hopes of heading off future problems or should I save up my money and sell my old machine to buy a brand new machine for next summer? My current machine had 975 hours.
A very good lesson
I wanted to help everyone out because I was not very knowledgeable on how to properly operate or maintain my power equipment for my home, and I had sort of trashed a lawnmower and weed trimmer after only a year. So I found this place called ASERO, which is apparently the Association for Small Engine Repair and Operation, and I had no idea they even existed before. They are at Association for Small Engine Repair & Operation, and I was able to take this Basic Small Engine Technician course for only twenty five bucks. It really helped me learn sort of the ins and outs of small engines, not only on the maintenance side but also a bit of the mechanical side. I've had the same power equipment now ever since, and I would say the course paid for itself without question. Have you guys heard of this before?
Anyway, I'd like to find out more about any other sites or organizations like this, so if you know of anything that might of interest, hit me up!
Anyway, I'd like to find out more about any other sites or organizations like this, so if you know of anything that might of interest, hit me up!
Walk behind Walk behind mower only 2 years old won't start
I have a Craftsman walk-behind mower similar to this one Sears.com. The only difference is that mine is self-propelled. It has the Briggs and Stratton 190cc 6.75 engine.
My mother-in-law could not get her mower started this year (basically the exact same mower only slightly smaller) I lent her mine. I had not even tried to start it yet. She tried to start it and was unable. She added new gas to it and tried again but was still unable to get it started. She then had her lawnmower serviced and it turns out the spark plug was bad. My brother-in-law also has the same mower and had a spark plug issue as well. He replaced the plug and it runs perfectly.
In kind, I replaced the spark plug on my mower. The plug that was on the mower was a Champion RJ2YXLE, which I read about and is a horrible plug. I replaced it with a Champion RJ19LM which is the recommended replacement plug. Nothing happened. Mower will still not turn over.
I then went to a store specializing in lawnmowers and asked a few questions. I purchased a new air filter because mine was pretty filthy, though I am sure that is not why it wouldn't start. I also purchased some carburetor cleaner, which I was told would help the mower start and hopefully once it is started it will continue to run and sort of "fix itself". I applied the carb cleaner and tried to start the engine. The engine fired up, ran for maybe 1 second, and then immediately stopped. I repeated the process and got the same result 2 more times.
I am not particularly handy, and am not an engine expert. I do not know what to do at this point, except maybe to replace the gas and oil in the mower? Is there something else simple that I could try, or am I going to be forced to take the mower in for service? I only want to do that as a last resort, I want to fix this thing myself!!
Any help would be greatly appreciated. No advice is too simple or "stupid", I guarentee anyone on here giving advice knows WAY more than I do about engines.
Thank you.
My mother-in-law could not get her mower started this year (basically the exact same mower only slightly smaller) I lent her mine. I had not even tried to start it yet. She tried to start it and was unable. She added new gas to it and tried again but was still unable to get it started. She then had her lawnmower serviced and it turns out the spark plug was bad. My brother-in-law also has the same mower and had a spark plug issue as well. He replaced the plug and it runs perfectly.
In kind, I replaced the spark plug on my mower. The plug that was on the mower was a Champion RJ2YXLE, which I read about and is a horrible plug. I replaced it with a Champion RJ19LM which is the recommended replacement plug. Nothing happened. Mower will still not turn over.
I then went to a store specializing in lawnmowers and asked a few questions. I purchased a new air filter because mine was pretty filthy, though I am sure that is not why it wouldn't start. I also purchased some carburetor cleaner, which I was told would help the mower start and hopefully once it is started it will continue to run and sort of "fix itself". I applied the carb cleaner and tried to start the engine. The engine fired up, ran for maybe 1 second, and then immediately stopped. I repeated the process and got the same result 2 more times.
I am not particularly handy, and am not an engine expert. I do not know what to do at this point, except maybe to replace the gas and oil in the mower? Is there something else simple that I could try, or am I going to be forced to take the mower in for service? I only want to do that as a last resort, I want to fix this thing myself!!
Any help would be greatly appreciated. No advice is too simple or "stupid", I guarentee anyone on here giving advice knows WAY more than I do about engines.
Thank you.
buying a lawn tractor isnt as it should be
This is my first post. Recently I was looking for a nice garden tractor that has implements like rototiller, snow blade. Well I was totally stunned when every place I looked the price was way over my budget. My budget was set to $4000. After looking for 2 months locally, online and Craigs List, and other classified sources. I had to come to a conclusion that I can't buy much with what I could afford so I had to lower my expectations. I found this forum and joined because I had no idea what I was going to buy now that I cant get what I want. I finally found a real nice 2002 Kabota lg 1860 lawn tractor diesel engine with 320 hours. I hope I made the right decision. No implements but....?? What will I do now for tilling my garden? I have a rear tine tiller simplicity and wow talk about work. I liked my tiller on my dead garden tractor.:rolleyes:
My first question here. Putting the mower deck back on a 98-99 model
This lawn tractor / mower is a model number 660-669.
I got this lawn tractor from my son who purchased it used. So it has been around a while. I put a seat support on it last year. The issue the mower had was it had a very loose steering setup. I had to turn it between 10 and 2 to try to keep it going straight. That issue has been corrected.
I also wanted to make sure the blades were sharp so before I fixed the steering, I removed the deck. I did so with out any manuals. I pretymuch removed all the pins and washers I could see and due to old age did not pay attention to where everything was attached.
Today I started putting the deck back on and after attaching it once, then removing it and putting it back on again. I got down to re attach the mower belt and discovered that the stabilizer plate was not fully attached. I am out of cotter pins and have no idea where this stabilizer is supposed to attach.
If this forum is like most others I have visited over the years, I expect some one here will be able to tell me exactly what I did wrong in the assembly process. I Sure do hope so. I can provide pictures if necessary but I do not have any at this point.
I got this lawn tractor from my son who purchased it used. So it has been around a while. I put a seat support on it last year. The issue the mower had was it had a very loose steering setup. I had to turn it between 10 and 2 to try to keep it going straight. That issue has been corrected.
I also wanted to make sure the blades were sharp so before I fixed the steering, I removed the deck. I did so with out any manuals. I pretymuch removed all the pins and washers I could see and due to old age did not pay attention to where everything was attached.
Today I started putting the deck back on and after attaching it once, then removing it and putting it back on again. I got down to re attach the mower belt and discovered that the stabilizer plate was not fully attached. I am out of cotter pins and have no idea where this stabilizer is supposed to attach.
If this forum is like most others I have visited over the years, I expect some one here will be able to tell me exactly what I did wrong in the assembly process. I Sure do hope so. I can provide pictures if necessary but I do not have any at this point.
kohler K181 for dummies
can someone please help me?
i have a old kohler k181 on a JD tractor
i need to set the points, i have a feeler gauge
i don't understand the service manual on how to adjust the points
i turn the flywheel to the S mark and points don't open
it opens when i turn it way after the S mark, i,m confused
can someone give me a step by step on how to set this up?
BTW i don't have a timing light
thank you
i have a old kohler k181 on a JD tractor
i need to set the points, i have a feeler gauge
i don't understand the service manual on how to adjust the points
i turn the flywheel to the S mark and points don't open
it opens when i turn it way after the S mark, i,m confused
can someone give me a step by step on how to set this up?
BTW i don't have a timing light
thank you
Greetings!
I'm in NE Texas, black gumbo soil, 15 acres with organic fruits and veggies, ANdalusian Horses, Llamas, Sheep, Goats, Cattle, Pecans, Orchards (with lot's of trees to cut around.) . Equipment: Old Ford 650 tractor, Old hand-me -down Murray riding mower 17.5hp, another "freecycle" 5 hp. walk behind, and a Husqvarna weed whacker, all of which require much maintenance. Looking forward to the day I can afford a new ZRT and other equipment.
Dang Bronco won't mow!
I would really appreciate some input. I have a Bronco model 13AV60KG211 riding mower. The blades will not stay engaged when I raise the actuator. What should I look for?
Attachments Baggers fail to pick up cuttings.
I have a John Deere lawn tractor Model LA 135. Purchased the bagger attachment about two years ago at Lowe's and initially it worked fine, but now it seems to pick up a little cut grass and that is it. Then I find the chute to be clogged. Employee at Lowes suggested spraying the tubing with cooking spray, did this to no avail and even tried WD 40. This is frustrating. Anyone else dealing with this problem, and if so, were they able to solve it? Thanks!
Blades Mulching Blades
I resently purchased JD mulching blades for my 2010 LA145 48" deck. This tractor used to be quiet operating with the original blades. The first time I used the mulching blades the thing was so loud you had to wear hearing protection. IS THIS NORMAL? I so why?
Roy
New to the lawn mower forum. I am a reired small engine mechanic. Mow my yard with 1970 Simplicity Soverign with a 12 hp cast iron Briggs engine
with a starter generator. Not many 70 models still working I'm pretty sure. It has a 48 inch deck and it is the orginal one. presently working on an older Troybilt
Pony for a friend. Hi to all you forum readers. Also have a 38 Buick coupe that is street rodded and a 56 International S120 that has the same treatment. I recently
signed up and was prompted to leave a message so here it is. Not very good with computers. I'll be 73 in five days so you can understand that I'mm sure.
Roy
with a starter generator. Not many 70 models still working I'm pretty sure. It has a 48 inch deck and it is the orginal one. presently working on an older Troybilt
Pony for a friend. Hi to all you forum readers. Also have a 38 Buick coupe that is street rodded and a 56 International S120 that has the same treatment. I recently
signed up and was prompted to leave a message so here it is. Not very good with computers. I'll be 73 in five days so you can understand that I'mm sure.
Roy
Repairs JD JA65 Push Mower Self-Propel won't fully engage
My JA65 JD push-mower is having self-propel issues.
I noticed the mower seemed to be pulling to the left as I mowed, and I lifted the rear of the mower off the ground and sure enough, the right rear wheel was spinning at full-speed, but the left rear wheel was only barely moving in self-propel.
I took both of the rear wheels off and checked that they were connected to the gears properly. However, when I reassemble I only can hear the left rear wheel clicking as it should.
Could it be the cable that connects to the drive belts?
Help!
I noticed the mower seemed to be pulling to the left as I mowed, and I lifted the rear of the mower off the ground and sure enough, the right rear wheel was spinning at full-speed, but the left rear wheel was only barely moving in self-propel.
I took both of the rear wheels off and checked that they were connected to the gears properly. However, when I reassemble I only can hear the left rear wheel clicking as it should.
Could it be the cable that connects to the drive belts?
Help!
Toro 6.5 HP key crank/self Propelled Lawn Mower
Lawn mower will not crank with key. I am 57 years old and not strong enough to pull the cord. When I turn the key, engine will turn over but wont crank. Does battery need charging or what.
Thanks: :frown:
Thanks: :frown:
New riding mowers
Hello, I'm looking for input on new riding mowers. I mow about an acre and at 75 am looking to "ease" the chore so to speak. Any thoughts good and bad on mid price range riders?
Engine Ariens Gt18 no start
I have a Ariens GT18 lawn tractor. It won't start at all i've replaced ignition coil battery and put fresh gas in it. Please Help..
Craftsman 917.270532 Lift Assembly Wire
I have a Craftsman 917.270532.
I need to replace the wire for the lift assembly. It is going to be part 1 (wire) and part 3 (pin) on the diagram below. Do I need to take off the arm to do that? How would I replace those two things?
http://ift.tt/1o5zSyf
Alex
I need to replace the wire for the lift assembly. It is going to be part 1 (wire) and part 3 (pin) on the diagram below. Do I need to take off the arm to do that? How would I replace those two things?
http://ift.tt/1o5zSyf
Alex
jeudi 29 mai 2014
Comparison 1969 Simplicity/Montgomery Ward riding mower still going
In 1969 my FIL bought a new 8hp Montgomery Ward riding mower. He used it a couple of years and sold it to me. I used it for thirty-five years, mowing an acre of rough lawn and plowing snow in the winter. It was worked hard, but maintained well
Little things did wear out. The front spindle where the drag link connects required several repairs. The transaxle shafts wore deep grooves in the housings, so I turned them one-eighty and installed bronze bushings. The deck blade arbors required reaming and shimming. The motor mounting plate required welding a couple of times. The rear deck alignment bracket required welding. The brake caliper broke years ago. The front wheel bearing areas wore out, so I installed bronze bushings and shimmed them with washers.
The amazing thing is the Briggs and Stratton still is running strong. The whole machine was getting tired but I couldn't bear to scrap it, so I parked it in the attic of the garage. After several years, my wife said it was time. Today, I got it down and out, aired the tires, poured in some gas, connected a battery. It started on the first spin, runs strong and idles down to counting the licks. It mows just fine.
Simplicity and Briggs and Stratton can be proud of this one. It's been a tremendous value for the money.
Jack Vines
Little things did wear out. The front spindle where the drag link connects required several repairs. The transaxle shafts wore deep grooves in the housings, so I turned them one-eighty and installed bronze bushings. The deck blade arbors required reaming and shimming. The motor mounting plate required welding a couple of times. The rear deck alignment bracket required welding. The brake caliper broke years ago. The front wheel bearing areas wore out, so I installed bronze bushings and shimmed them with washers.
The amazing thing is the Briggs and Stratton still is running strong. The whole machine was getting tired but I couldn't bear to scrap it, so I parked it in the attic of the garage. After several years, my wife said it was time. Today, I got it down and out, aired the tires, poured in some gas, connected a battery. It started on the first spin, runs strong and idles down to counting the licks. It mows just fine.
Simplicity and Briggs and Stratton can be proud of this one. It's been a tremendous value for the money.
Jack Vines
HRX217HYA high lift blade?
My new HYA doesn't seem to have as much suction as my old HR215SXA (same deck height). Is there a higher lift blade available from Honda or an aftermarket supplier? I have magnolia trees in my lawn and the new mower doesn't pick them up very well.
Toro Z Master Problem
2001 62" Toro Z Master
m 74226 s 2100001151
Kohler v twin 2000 hrs
Started a few years ago with the mower starting to spit and sputter very sparatically for no good reason at all. It started to do it more often then i replaced the pto switch and it ran like a dream for a month then started doing it again. so i replaced the key ignition switch and it ran like a dream again for a month then started spitting and sputtering sparatically again. i could still mow and what not but it just sounded like hell for a few minutes then would run great and a few swipes later sounded like hell again. really weird. I then replaced the two coils and it again ran like a top for a month or so then started doing the same thing. I can't figure out what the heck is going on with it. Then when i was mowing one day the mower just died mid mow and i figured out it was the parking break switch. so i hard wired it to make it so i could at least drive it. then to get the blades to turn on i had to hard wire a switch from two of the wires from the pto switch. Originally if the parking break was set it would turn on but the minute you released the parking break it would die. so when i wired it to be able to drive if i turned the blades on it would then die so that's why i had to hard wire a different switch from two of the pto wires. I went through the seat switch(hard wired it to bypass it because i really thought this was the problem), roll over sensor, two bar switches, relays, im not sure what the problem is. Also when i hard wired it to be able to keep mowing it STILL Ran like crap and now it runs like crap after the first minute of running and really pops and sputters now. At first i thought it was the valves but after replacing electronic components as i listed before it ran fine so I NEED YOUR HELP. Thanks!
m 74226 s 2100001151
Kohler v twin 2000 hrs
Started a few years ago with the mower starting to spit and sputter very sparatically for no good reason at all. It started to do it more often then i replaced the pto switch and it ran like a dream for a month then started doing it again. so i replaced the key ignition switch and it ran like a dream again for a month then started spitting and sputtering sparatically again. i could still mow and what not but it just sounded like hell for a few minutes then would run great and a few swipes later sounded like hell again. really weird. I then replaced the two coils and it again ran like a top for a month or so then started doing the same thing. I can't figure out what the heck is going on with it. Then when i was mowing one day the mower just died mid mow and i figured out it was the parking break switch. so i hard wired it to make it so i could at least drive it. then to get the blades to turn on i had to hard wire a switch from two of the wires from the pto switch. Originally if the parking break was set it would turn on but the minute you released the parking break it would die. so when i wired it to be able to drive if i turned the blades on it would then die so that's why i had to hard wire a different switch from two of the pto wires. I went through the seat switch(hard wired it to bypass it because i really thought this was the problem), roll over sensor, two bar switches, relays, im not sure what the problem is. Also when i hard wired it to be able to keep mowing it STILL Ran like crap and now it runs like crap after the first minute of running and really pops and sputters now. At first i thought it was the valves but after replacing electronic components as i listed before it ran fine so I NEED YOUR HELP. Thanks!
Stanley owners
Would like to know if there are others with the 22 hp Stanley garden tractor. I know it is referred to MTD but I have not h a d much luck
getting correct belt sizes and other parts. Have mostly relied on making parts and or make several trips to swap out things that will not fit even
tho the part number I have is supposed to be correct.
getting correct belt sizes and other parts. Have mostly relied on making parts and or make several trips to swap out things that will not fit even
tho the part number I have is supposed to be correct.
Craftsman transmission crossover??
Have a Craftsman 917.254640 12hp Tecumseh powered riding mower. The transmission has a broken part inside. What other options for transmissions can be installed on this mower, or what other mowers may have a trans that can be fitted or used for parts?
1989 rally
I picked up a 22in 3.5 horse brings rally that the owner thought would never run again. After a fresh j19lm plug a quart of sae30, a carb rebuild, and some fresh gas she runs like a champ
I'm having problems with my John Deere mower
There are 600 hours on mower and the problem is that the mower will start and mow, but after about 5 minutes it won't pull hills. I was wondering if any of you all could give me an idea of whats wrong.
New HRX217VKA Occasionally backfiring on startup
I purchased an HRX217VKA about a month ago replacing a Toro Recycler Personal Pace Mower. It has always started on the first pull everytime. I have noticed two issues that concern me. 1. The very first pull out of the box the mower backfired as it came to life, there was no hesitation in the mower starting just a clean hollow backfire out of the muffler. Since that time when starting the mower it will randomly for no apparent reason backfire. It has done it about 4 to 5 times in about 6 weeks of use. I tried putting a brand new Honda Spark Plug in but the backfire has continued to randomly happen. I use non ethanol 87 octane fuel which I have gotten a fresh batch with the same thing. The mower runs fine and always fires with zero hesitation, it is just sometimes in the process of pulling the cord it lets out a loud clean sounding backfire. It will usually only happen once in a mowing session never twice.
The other issue I have noticed is that when starting the mower the starter recoil does not always cleanly want to rewind itsself without sometimes having a slight hitch or requiring a slight pull and then it will go right in. Most of the time in rewinds with no issue but every 2nd or third time it is pulled it seems to have the hitch.
I have also noticed that when the mower comes to life it will produce one small puff of black smoke but only on startup.
I asked my local service dealer about these issues and they basically told me not to worry about it since it seems to run fine and is an intermittent issue. Does anyone have any similar issues or suggestions?
I can say being very picky about my lawn that this mower provides a beautiful cut by far the best of any mower I have owned. I have the height set to "2" and it seems just right. I have already done the initial 5hr oil change and as stated above tried a new plug.
The other issue I have noticed is that when starting the mower the starter recoil does not always cleanly want to rewind itsself without sometimes having a slight hitch or requiring a slight pull and then it will go right in. Most of the time in rewinds with no issue but every 2nd or third time it is pulled it seems to have the hitch.
I have also noticed that when the mower comes to life it will produce one small puff of black smoke but only on startup.
I asked my local service dealer about these issues and they basically told me not to worry about it since it seems to run fine and is an intermittent issue. Does anyone have any similar issues or suggestions?
I can say being very picky about my lawn that this mower provides a beautiful cut by far the best of any mower I have owned. I have the height set to "2" and it seems just right. I have already done the initial 5hr oil change and as stated above tried a new plug.
24" Bunton Blades and Belts
wondering if anyone can help me with finding parts for this mower?
i know 24" mower is rear from my searching the net for parts, but i cannot find anything on this mower.
24" Bunton with a 8hp B&S.
Good mower
yellow engine, green deck, good shape except for the belts and blades.
thanks for the replys
i know 24" mower is rear from my searching the net for parts, but i cannot find anything on this mower.
24" Bunton with a 8hp B&S.
Good mower
yellow engine, green deck, good shape except for the belts and blades.
thanks for the replys
New Member
Hi Folks, I'm new to the Lawnmower forum. I'm a retired mechanical engineer living in Nova Scotia who has been waiting for some spring like weather that may have finally arrived. I own about three acres of which I mow about half. I use a 22 in. lawnmower for trimming and a JD 2720 tractor for the bulk of the mowing. I have some flat areas but some steep slopes in places and some drop offs that can be dangerous. I just got a new all wheel drive (awd) Husqvarna mower with 22 in. cut that I'll report on when I've had a chance to use it a little more.
19 hp blowing oil
I left the oil stick out and started the engine, it blew oil out where you put it in. should it do that or is something wrong with the engine?
Tecumseh TVM 220 10 Hp engine no spark at plug.
200 Engine ran well last time I used engine. Checked points, sanded metal on pick-up, and installed new spark plug. Still no spark at plug.
overheating problem with a craftsman lt2000
I already changed out the coil which did wonders but I am wondering, since the spindels don't have a zert to grease them and one of them is hard to turn with my hand will this cause enouph stress on the engine to cause it to overheat?
Belt comes off on deck when blades are disengaged on troybilt bronco.
Had a small limb caught under mower and bent idler pulley and cut belt on deck. Replaced pulley and belt and now when blades are disengaged the belt comes off on deck.
x300 blowing oil
if you pull the oil stick out with engine running should it blow out where you put oil in?
Looking for Info On BobCat Mower
I purchased a used mower and after a lot of looking all I can conclude is that it is a bobcat 48" commercial walk behind mower. I identified this by a part number on the gear box,
bobcat 38008.
The machine runs great and cuts nice, but needs a couple of miner items.
Can anyone assist me in trying to figure the year?
It has a 1989 11 hp Briggs I\C engine, but I a not sure that is original engine as I haven't found any bobcat mowers that listed having that engine.
I did track the gear part number to a Ransoms bobcat.
If anyone an provide some info on resources I would really appreciate it.
Thank You!
bobcat 38008.
The machine runs great and cuts nice, but needs a couple of miner items.
Can anyone assist me in trying to figure the year?
It has a 1989 11 hp Briggs I\C engine, but I a not sure that is original engine as I haven't found any bobcat mowers that listed having that engine.
I did track the gear part number to a Ransoms bobcat.
If anyone an provide some info on resources I would really appreciate it.
Thank You!
When brake is taken off, motor stops
I have a simplicity 24 HP Zero turn. Last week I turned it over and most of it got wet. I let it sit and dry out and that evening it started fine except for a little blue smoke and used it several times the next day. 5 days later, I started it and it ran fine. When I took the brake off to move it, it stopped. I tried it several times and the same thing happens.
Optional Information:
Make: Simplicity
Model: ZT3000
Optional Information:
Make: Simplicity
Model: ZT3000
WTS: 1974 Cub Cadet 129
Up for sale is a 1974 Cub Cadet 129 in excellent condition. This tractor has been in my family for over 25 years and sadly it's time for it to move on. I've bought a large plot of land and just need more tractor. It had a new motor installed in the late 90s. It's still the Kohler 12hp K301 and it starts up easy and runs strong. The tractor is very solid and any rust is light and on the surface only.
Here are some details:
1974 Cub Cadet 129 (Serial # 496,394)
- Very little rust always kept inside
- Seat cover replaced ~5 years ago
- Hydrostatic Transmission works great!
- Filter and Fluid replaced last year
New K301 12hp Kohler installed in the late 90ç—´
- New Point, Condensor, Coil, and Spark Plug last year
- Oil and filter replaced at end of last season
- New battery last year
44 Mower Deck (44A)
- Brand New Oregon 3-IN-1 Gator Blades (90-657)
- New Kevlar deck belt installed last year
- New Idler Pulley Spring last year
- Hydraulic fluid and filter replaced last year
Brand New 23x8.5 Ag rear tires put on two weeks ago
- I put tubes in them to fill them with your choice of fluid and not have to worry about rusting the rims
Negatives:
- Hydrostat does drift towards reverse. It is fixable but I do not possess the tools to do it.
- If you shut off the tractor immediately after running it for more than ~30 minutes it will backfire. If you let it idle for a minute or two it will not.
- The belt from the front PTO to the mower deck works but is showing its age. It may be good for only a season or two more.
- The spring implement lever (used to adjust the deck height) has either broke or stuck in place. The lever will freely move up and down I use the adjustable cam to set my deck height.
The tractor is located near Kent, IN (few miles west of Madison, IN). I have the means to and am willing to deliver for an extra fee (I do enjoy a good road trip!). I have used this tractor every year for the last 25 years. It has actually been the only riding mower I have ever owned. I'm saddened to let it go but at the same time I can't afford to be holding on to it.
Additional pictures can be found here:
http://ift.tt/1tsgPiY
When viewing the slide show, if you right-click on the photo and select "View Original" you can see a high-res version of that picture.
Asking price: $700
ZTS 7500 question
I have a ZTS 7500 50 inch deck and i need help!!
I cannot figure for the life of me where the short spring for the deck goes. If anyone happens to know or could take a picture, i would be forever in your debt. I need to cut this grass!
I cannot figure for the life of me where the short spring for the deck goes. If anyone happens to know or could take a picture, i would be forever in your debt. I need to cut this grass!
Kohler Engine power issue
I use a 61" Scag Turg Tiger to mow about 3 acres at my farm. The mower is 10 years old with approximately 360 hours. Engine is a 27HP Kohler with carburetor.
I have recently noticed that the engine loses power and sputters somewhat in situations that stress the motor...like turning uphill while cutting grass or when mowing up a steep incline. While I used to observe this occasionally in the past, it seems much more common lately.
Dealer thought it was fuel starvation because of the carburetor design and that a new carb ($350-400 installed) might fix it. Or it might not. A new $11,000 Scag, he assured me, will fix the problem. Indeed.
While I may have to spring for a new mower I thought I'd cast about for some friendly advice.
Anyone worked through this issue?
I have recently noticed that the engine loses power and sputters somewhat in situations that stress the motor...like turning uphill while cutting grass or when mowing up a steep incline. While I used to observe this occasionally in the past, it seems much more common lately.
Dealer thought it was fuel starvation because of the carburetor design and that a new carb ($350-400 installed) might fix it. Or it might not. A new $11,000 Scag, he assured me, will fix the problem. Indeed.
While I may have to spring for a new mower I thought I'd cast about for some friendly advice.
Anyone worked through this issue?
Scag/Kohler down on power
I use a 61" Scag Turg Tiger to mow about 3 acres at my farm. The mower is 10 years old with approximately 360 hours. Engine is a 27HP Kohler with carburetor.
I have recently noticed that the engine loses power and sputters somewhat in situations that stress the motor...like turning uphill while cutting grass or when mowing up a steep incline. While I used to observe this occasionally in the past, it seems much more common lately.
Dealer thought it was fuel starvation because of the carburetor design and that a new carb ($350-400 installed) might fix it. Or it might not. A new $11,000 Scag, he assured me, will fix the problem. Indeed.
I wonder if simply cleaning the 10 year old, ethanol soaked carb might fix the issue.
While I may have to spring for a new mower I thought I'd cast about for some friendly advice.
Anyone worked through this issue?
I have recently noticed that the engine loses power and sputters somewhat in situations that stress the motor...like turning uphill while cutting grass or when mowing up a steep incline. While I used to observe this occasionally in the past, it seems much more common lately.
Dealer thought it was fuel starvation because of the carburetor design and that a new carb ($350-400 installed) might fix it. Or it might not. A new $11,000 Scag, he assured me, will fix the problem. Indeed.
I wonder if simply cleaning the 10 year old, ethanol soaked carb might fix the issue.
While I may have to spring for a new mower I thought I'd cast about for some friendly advice.
Anyone worked through this issue?
Wizard riding mower
Hello from Maine. New here and wondering if anyone can suggest the most reliable place to order parts for my Wizard Model #7124A89?
Goshen Ohio
Been working on small engines most my life. Rebuilt my first 2 cycle engine @ 12 in 1971. Lost a thumb nail in the process but they grow back. Still don't know everything. Glad to help when I can but here mostly for the great help Ive seen from the forum.
Thanks,
Ferd
Thanks,
Ferd
New Member Introduction
Owner of a problem mowing area, hilly, rocky, weedy, and brushy. I have two brushhogs (one a Ford finish mower), two weed eaters Stihl 130 and a smaller one, two lawnmowers one a MTD Zero Turn Yardman, and a Toto push mower.
Located in the Ozarks of Missouri. Am an old man over 75 and retired from the Federal Aviation Administration (FAA) where I once was a Electronic tech and later an Electronic Engineer.
Located in the Ozarks of Missouri. Am an old man over 75 and retired from the Federal Aviation Administration (FAA) where I once was a Electronic tech and later an Electronic Engineer.
Craftsman mower sounds like a fire cracker
Howdy, I'm new here so don't kill me please. :)
I do an engine repair service out of my garage, and i'm having some difficulties with a mower. It is a Briggs and Stratton 14.5 ohv gold series engine.
When you turn the choke on and crank it, after a few seconds. You get a nice loud crack resembling a fire cracker. It is only with the choke on tho. It has spark, fuel and compression. I have adjusted the valves as per a million youtube videos. I am at a total loss here. Help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!
I do an engine repair service out of my garage, and i'm having some difficulties with a mower. It is a Briggs and Stratton 14.5 ohv gold series engine.
When you turn the choke on and crank it, after a few seconds. You get a nice loud crack resembling a fire cracker. It is only with the choke on tho. It has spark, fuel and compression. I have adjusted the valves as per a million youtube videos. I am at a total loss here. Help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!
Now I need a Manual, Help?
When I brought home my prize new to me Snapper yesterday, it was so dirty that I didn't think it still had a model number plate on it. Now that I've cleaned it, I can see it somewhat clearly. I took down the model number (21351PD , or the D may be a zero or an O) and have searched around the 'net for a manual. Can't find one! Everyone here has been so helpful, and I hate to be a pest but if anyone can help please chime in. Thanks again...
I did find a site called Manuals Lib, and it has a manual for a Snapper with this model number, but the engine and grass shute both are totally different than their picture?!
PS: Still can't see any instructions on the site as to how to go about dragging photos from my Home on here to a post. It looks so much better cleaned up, I'd love to show everyone.
I did find a site called Manuals Lib, and it has a manual for a Snapper with this model number, but the engine and grass shute both are totally different than their picture?!
PS: Still can't see any instructions on the site as to how to go about dragging photos from my Home on here to a post. It looks so much better cleaned up, I'd love to show everyone.
Cub 1620
Hi just rebuilt pump on this mower now it goes in reverse when put shifter in forward betl is on the right way just wondering if there is a way of putting pump back together wrong to make it do this thanks Don
Where to attach the idler pulley spring
Yard Tractor Manual for Models 607, 608 and 609.
Ref P/Ns:
Flat Idler (pulley) #756-0981
Idler Bracket #783-0669
Extension Spring #732-0384
Spring broke, damaged the pulley and ate the drive belt. Replaced all three and now the drive pedal is a so hard to press you can't physically keep it down very long. I think I didn't attach the spring to the correct place. When it broke the end opposite the idler bracket broke off so I don't know exactly what it was attached to. The picture in the manual is worthless. Can anyone tell me where to attach the end of the spring opposite the pulley side. What else would cause the drive pedal to be so hard to press down? I ordered OEM parts so I would think they are correct.
headusher
Ref P/Ns:
Flat Idler (pulley) #756-0981
Idler Bracket #783-0669
Extension Spring #732-0384
Spring broke, damaged the pulley and ate the drive belt. Replaced all three and now the drive pedal is a so hard to press you can't physically keep it down very long. I think I didn't attach the spring to the correct place. When it broke the end opposite the idler bracket broke off so I don't know exactly what it was attached to. The picture in the manual is worthless. Can anyone tell me where to attach the end of the spring opposite the pulley side. What else would cause the drive pedal to be so hard to press down? I ordered OEM parts so I would think they are correct.
headusher
grasshopper 1212 engine conversion
I am trying to install a 12 hp briggs engine into my 1212 mower as the kohler m12 s is shot. Is this possible ? Iam confused as to how to match it up the crank shaft to the mower. If this seems to labor intensive, what model kohler can I use that would be cost effective?
Toro LX500 wont start
Recently I was given a Toro LX500 which has Kohler Courage 22hp engine. It hasn't been used in 3 years and would start. I sprayed a little carb and choke cleaner in the air box and it fires up but won,t stay running. Last night I pulled off the carb and cleaned it all up, changed the air and fuel filter and put in new plugs. After all that was completed it still wouldn't start. I then drained all the fuel and replaced it with new fuel and it started right up on the first turn of the key. I shut it down and restarted it several times with no issues. Today I got out to the garage and it wont start again. Any help or ideas what to check next would be a great help. Thanks Mike
My first rear tine tiller
Just bought a Troy Bilt horse. 20 yr old machine that needed minimal repair.
Great machine for large straight row garden, but not maneuverable for
Smaller work.
Great machine for large straight row garden, but not maneuverable for
Smaller work.
New X300 Owner Fuel Economy 48" cut
I'm a new X300 owner.I'm pleased with the mower but curious about fuel economy.It runs great but seems to go through fuel pretty quick.Curious as to how many hours you get on a full tank? My past mowers have all been single cylinder 42" cuts" this is my first twin cylinder mower.
researching information about mowers/vacuums to mulch and gather leafy debris
In the very near future I will be installing over 3 acres of Paulownia for timber and raw material for anaerobic digesting and that will require a mower and vacuum to gather the debris to easily dump into a digester. The trees will be 10` apart, so there is little problem with space. Is there anyone here that can lend some insight into this operation with some links to visit? I`ve already discovered a few places that sell different versions of what I will need , but would appreciate more information to make a better informed decision as to what quality there is to be found. I realize that there is much out there , but sometimes it is better to see what others experience is along with the availability. Thanks for any help and I am an engineer with hands on experience with agriculture and all that goes with it...
THJANKS
I HAVE BEEN LOOKING EVERYWHERE FOR THE PEOPLE WHO ANSWERED MY QUESTION AND TRIED TO HELP ME ON THIS FORUM. BOTTOM LINE IS I DON'T KNOW WHAT IM DOING YET. I DID REMOVE THE SHIFTER KNOB BY UNSCREWING IT . I USED A RAG WRAPPED AROUND THE KNOB AND LOCKED ON VISEGRIPS AND UNSCREWED IT. THE PARTS MANUAL PICTURE WAS MISLEADING AS IT DID NOT SHOW ANY THREADS ON THE END OF THE SHIFTER ROD. THANKS FOR YOUR HELP,YOU KNOW WHO YOUR ARE, SOMEDAY I HOPE I CAN THANK YOU DIRECTLY IN THE FORUM.
Craftsman dies after running a few minutes
I had a problem with keeping the lawnmower running. It would start just fine, then just die. Sometimes it would start again but most of the time, it wouldn't. I checked the carburetor, fuel line, replaced the spark plug but nothing worked. The problem is the cable had a lot of play (looseness) in it. After starting the lawnmower, it begin to sputter then I pulled the actual cable and the lawnmower continue to run without dying. I replaced the cable and everything is working as it should.
Hello
I am getting nagged to introduce myself; I am DadofTim, retired military and my lawn mower is off at college so I had to get a new one. I chose the JD130 because of the steep hills on my lake shore home. I am still getting used to it but it seems to do what I want it to do, so thats a plus over the old one.
Sources for out-of-production wiring harnesses?
just ducking in to ask if there is a common place to shop for a riding mower wiring harness.
Not mine, but a co-worker is working on his grandfather's mower. I may be able to get specific model or part number if needed, but just wondering what folks do generally when sears shows a wiring harness as unavailable. He says he spotted a used one on Ebay for $49 , and of course he has the option of doing some splicing/soldering, but - maybe you guys have a source for stuff like this?
thanx in advance
Not mine, but a co-worker is working on his grandfather's mower. I may be able to get specific model or part number if needed, but just wondering what folks do generally when sears shows a wiring harness as unavailable. He says he spotted a used one on Ebay for $49 , and of course he has the option of doing some splicing/soldering, but - maybe you guys have a source for stuff like this?
thanx in advance
MTD Mower Resto/Build project
I picked this mower up on the side of the road, someone was throwing it away. I have never restored a mower but I figure this is a great start. I just wanted to track my progress and get input from people who may have a mower like mine. My progress now is that I have disassembled most of the mower but not including the drivetrain and pulleys underneath the seat. If anyone could help later on where to get parts and, how to tell if they are bad. I have attached some random photos of my progress so far. If anyone knows how to get to the internals that would be very helpful, as I want to see if the motor is even good! I hope you guys enjoy my rebuild/restore and don't see it as a boring post. because ei plan to put a good amount of work into it!:thumbsup:
Carb:
Ignition switch
Post disassembly
Battery box/rust
Seat
Motor/motor cover
Pulleys underneath seat
Carb:
Ignition switch
Post disassembly
Battery box/rust
Seat
Motor/motor cover
Pulleys underneath seat
White LT1500 Stuck in Reverse
I am currently looking to buy a White LT1500 lawn tractor with a 15.5 go Briggs and Stratton engine. It the description of the ad it says it only goes in reverse. They are asking $275.
Briggs suddenly quit - wont start again
New member here with a problem with our Toro ready start mower. It is about 4 years old and has worked without problems until this weekend. It suddenly stopped and will not restart. The engine is model 126T05-0115-B1. The plug has been replaced. Gap is .030 per manual. spark looked really weak so replaced the armature. I used a business card to provide the gap as others have done. Pulled the blower housing off and removed a dead mouse from under the carb area.
Fuel is new. Still will not start. I am not sure that the problem is fuel related as it will not so much as sputter with starting spray. I could understand it could be fuel related if it started and quickly died with the spray. If I could at least get a quick start, I will gladly overhaul the carb.
Any help is greatly appreciated.
Tom
Fuel is new. Still will not start. I am not sure that the problem is fuel related as it will not so much as sputter with starting spray. I could understand it could be fuel related if it started and quickly died with the spray. If I could at least get a quick start, I will gladly overhaul the carb.
Any help is greatly appreciated.
Tom
Briggs and stratton 3.5hp and 4hp interchangable parts?
Hello I have 2 mowers a 1995 briggs and stratton 3.5hp classic and 4hp quantum. The 4hp keeps fouling the carb now it starts and dies and smokes out the exhaust or carb on shutdown when it ran. The 3.5hp wont start and backfires every 3-5 pulls my question is can I interchange parts like the valves to make the 3.5hp run again? might sound silly but the hp is similair any help to get one or both working would be much appreciated. Thank you
mercredi 28 mai 2014
New guy here, lookin for some help with a broken motor
So my uncle had an old Craftsmen GT5000 that he melted the oil plug on and drained it and continues to run it until she stopped. He gave it to use because we could use the deck. Now that the deck is off, I want to work on repairing the engine as a summer project. The engine turns over too easy. Can someone explain what happened and what is going on inside the engine? And where should I start to begin repairing this thing? Thanks Yall
finally bit the bullet 22198
After fixing my old toro for the bazillinth time and then having it break again today I decided to just go buy a new mower.
Got a toro proline 21" commercial mower 22198 with a fj180v kawi engine. I've used these before and they are beasts of machines got 300 off msrp they were making room for the new commercial toros.
Got a toro proline 21" commercial mower 22198 with a fj180v kawi engine. I've used these before and they are beasts of machines got 300 off msrp they were making room for the new commercial toros.
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