HEy all. Picked up a project today at a thrift store. Scored a Lawnboy L21zpnc serial no. K128c0116. For 9.50. Yes I said 9.50. Won't start but has compression, filter is clean, choke and throttle work fine, and no leaks. Seems the kill handle cable I'd stuck. Never worked on a Lawnboy. Don't know if I got a steal if I get it running or not. Any advice or info on this mower is welcome. Would like to find a year of this model and a manual if anyone knows where to look.
mardi 30 septembre 2014
PoweBilt 17.5 Spark plug issue
I have a one year old Troy-Bilt Pony with a 17.5 PowerBilt engine and I'm having issues getting it started. I could smell gas and pulled the plug and with the plug wire attached, I turned the key over and no spark. I replaced the plug and it started right away. The very next day same problem; no spark at the plug but when I stuck a screwdriver in the plug wire and turned the engine over, a spark was visible. I replaced the plug yet again and it cranked right up but very next day same problem again. What could possibly be causing my spark plugs to foul out so quickly.
craftsman 19 1/2 HP
Hello, new member needing help.
my Briggs 19 1/2 HP surges all the time and backfires frequently no matter what the rpm. I tried adjusting fuel but didn't help. Carburetor has been cleaned. all ports open.
any ideas?
my Briggs 19 1/2 HP surges all the time and backfires frequently no matter what the rpm. I tried adjusting fuel but didn't help. Carburetor has been cleaned. all ports open.
any ideas?
IS2000 ZTR sudden smoking bad
Was going along mowing a customer when all of a sudden mower starts smoking. So bad that I thought the damn thing was on fire!! Been very warm and very dry believe it or not up here in Syracuse. Checked it over, found nothing unusual. Re-started the mower and starts to smoke again. Even with the damn mowing deck disengaged!!! The smoke smells little like rubber burning but also chemical-ish smell. Any ideas of what belt or pulley may be turning on a ferris just sitting idle? I believe the hydro-fans run all the time? I don't know. I need help fast because I got customers waiting. So please, any ideas ,let me know.
Thanks so much
Jake
Thanks so much
Jake
Valve Job
I have a 2006 Hustler Z with a 23 HP Kawasaki with 675 hrs. The mower has been trouble free and works great on country terrain. I the last few months I've notices a "pop" when accelerating to full throttle after idling. After talking with local Hustler mechanics they assure me that it's quite normal to require a valve job on that engine at about 500-600 hrs. Anyone else ever heard this?
Brand New 2012 Scag Tiger Cat Has been sitting for approx 2yrs?
I found a dealer that has a brand new 2012 scag tiger cat with 1.2 hrs on it.
I'm concerned about buying a mower that has been sitting since 2012.
What are your thoughts?
I'm concerned about buying a mower that has been sitting since 2012.
What are your thoughts?
cub cadet gets hot
I have a cub cadet that I just bought(used). It has an 18 horse Kohler that runs really hot. The shrouds are all on the engine, but the side shields are missing. Will mthis cause overheating?
LX 173 stops running when it gets hot
My John Deere LX 173 dies after it warms up.No spark.Starts easy after it cools.Any suggestions what to look for.? Thanks new member steve
Duraforce CDI (coil) rust cleanup question
To test if the new CDI (coil) that I put on my Duraforce a few weeks ago is causing it to run badly I'm going to put the old one back on tomorrow. The old has some rust on the metal parts that get bolted down and may have some on the contacts, which I plan to clean off first. Now my question, after I clean off the rust should I rub some WD-40 on the metal parts to protect them or will that interfere with operation? Thanks.
Craftsman 21hp mower model# 247.28885 quit running.
So, I was 3/4 finished mowing my lawn when all the sudden I noticed an audible change in the sound of my engine. It sounded like it was clogged w grass or it was choking down or perhaps a compression issue. Shortly thereafter, the mower cut off.
Since then I have not been able to get it to run. It is very hard to turn over. I have replaced battery, checked all the safety switches, removed n cleaned the carburetor, removed old gas, bought n put new gas, checked the gas cap, checked the solenoid, blew out the air filter, replaced the spark plug. I removed n grounded the plug n it gets a good spark. The engine turns over easily when plug is removed as well. This tells me the plug, solenoid n battery are good. I took off air cleaner n tube n sprayed starter fluid directly into the carb. I got it to start but it ran very rough so I cut it quickly off. Seemed like a compression issue so I followed YouTube video to check valve adjustment. Upon inspection, valves were very loose. So much in fact, the metal cap on the end of the rod had fallen off. I adjusted valves as per video to .004 on both. I tried to start mower but it is still not starting and very hard to turn over. I'm open to suggestions at this point...
Since then I have not been able to get it to run. It is very hard to turn over. I have replaced battery, checked all the safety switches, removed n cleaned the carburetor, removed old gas, bought n put new gas, checked the gas cap, checked the solenoid, blew out the air filter, replaced the spark plug. I removed n grounded the plug n it gets a good spark. The engine turns over easily when plug is removed as well. This tells me the plug, solenoid n battery are good. I took off air cleaner n tube n sprayed starter fluid directly into the carb. I got it to start but it ran very rough so I cut it quickly off. Seemed like a compression issue so I followed YouTube video to check valve adjustment. Upon inspection, valves were very loose. So much in fact, the metal cap on the end of the rod had fallen off. I adjusted valves as per video to .004 on both. I tried to start mower but it is still not starting and very hard to turn over. I'm open to suggestions at this point...
Completely baffled by Briggs 6.75
I am trying to fix a friends push mower - a Craftsman 6.75 Briggs, auto-choke.
It is only two years old and has always run fine. Suddenly will not start:
Gets great spark
Seems to have good compression, although I haven't gauged it
Good fuel flow to the carb, has fresh fuel, cleaned the bowl and the bowl nut jets.
Heres the thing - I can't even get it to do anything with starter fluid - either through the carb or in the cylinder. After spraying approx. 10 times, I got a total of two "pops" or backfires...never even acts like it wants to turn over.
I thought it might be a timing issue so I checked the shear key but it is completely undamaged.
Thought I might have a blocked exhaust so I removed the muffler. Now I at least get a few sputters when I pull, but this thing is DOA.
Any other ideas? This thing is driving me nuts.
It is only two years old and has always run fine. Suddenly will not start:
Gets great spark
Seems to have good compression, although I haven't gauged it
Good fuel flow to the carb, has fresh fuel, cleaned the bowl and the bowl nut jets.
Heres the thing - I can't even get it to do anything with starter fluid - either through the carb or in the cylinder. After spraying approx. 10 times, I got a total of two "pops" or backfires...never even acts like it wants to turn over.
I thought it might be a timing issue so I checked the shear key but it is completely undamaged.
Thought I might have a blocked exhaust so I removed the muffler. Now I at least get a few sputters when I pull, but this thing is DOA.
Any other ideas? This thing is driving me nuts.
Kabuta T1460 mower belts
When I try to disengage the blade belt drive the blades keep rotating. I have renewed the arm with the brake pad. And tried numerous adjustments to the cable. Both springs are present.
Kohler Courage 22HP SV715 Carburator rivited to intake??
Not a mechanic, by process of elimination I have decided that my 7 year old Kohler Courage 22HP twin cyl SV715 carburetor needs rebuild. With some difficulty I have removed carb and intake manifold. It appears the carb is riveted between the air cleaner and intake manifold.
Are these rivets? I see no way to take this apart or put back together. Any suggestions. Thanks JIm
Are these rivets? I see no way to take this apart or put back together. Any suggestions. Thanks JIm
lundi 29 septembre 2014
PM inbox limit?
Is it pretty low? Some people *cough* Lawnboy18 need to delete some messages if they want replies :wink:
Cub or Cat?
I bought a used Scag w/ a new Kawasaki engine a couple of weeks back. SMTC-48v s/n d9103610.
Tiger Cub decals. Scag manual says it's a Tiger Cub. Scagoemparts.com and partstree.com and other online parts houses seem to think it's a Tiger Cat :confused2:
Anybody familiar with this? Doesn't matter to me cat or cub as long as I get the right parts.
Tiger Cub decals. Scag manual says it's a Tiger Cub. Scagoemparts.com and partstree.com and other online parts houses seem to think it's a Tiger Cat :confused2:
Anybody familiar with this? Doesn't matter to me cat or cub as long as I get the right parts.
How to start lawn over with new grass
I'm in the process of building a garage. It has my back and side yard in a mess. After the backhoe work is done in going to sow grass but I'm wondering if I would be better off to kill my existing grass... A mixture of Bermuda grass and other types... And start it over fresh. Any opinions on this or the best way to go about it? By the way I am in southeastern Kentucky. Most of the lawn is not shaded and gets a fair amount of water.
belt tightning
ive got a silver eagel lt2300..i replaced the belt on the bottom of the clutch ..it feels tight but is slipping..there is a spring with an adjustable plate that moves left to right and the spring has an adjustable bolt..this is on the rear of mower..was told to tighten spring and did so and moved bracket to the left and to the right..still slips..have no manual..1st time working on this..need help!
2012 Scag Turf Tiger Kawasaki 29DFI wont start after 6 weeks of storage, no fuel.
Hi all,
I'm having an issue with my turf tiger that I'm hoping you can help with. It's been sitting in the garage for a few weeks due to the grass not growing much in late summer. Today I went to fire it up, turn on the key, fuel pump buzzes to life, crank and one quick sputter, then nothing... just crank and no start.
I had a similar problem this spring the first time I got it out for the season, I attributed it to the fuel system losing prime and air trapped in the line. I pulled the fuel line off the injector and turned on the key until gas ran out, hooked it back up and that solved the problem. I tried that same thing today and just barely got a trickle out of the fuel line at first, and then nothing. The fuel pump sounds like it's running for a few seconds everytime I cycle the key, but no gas out of the line at all.
I know the mower is still under warranty, but I hate to call the dealer for something simple, Figured I'd ask here to see if anyone has a suggestion before going that route.
Thanks
Paul
I'm having an issue with my turf tiger that I'm hoping you can help with. It's been sitting in the garage for a few weeks due to the grass not growing much in late summer. Today I went to fire it up, turn on the key, fuel pump buzzes to life, crank and one quick sputter, then nothing... just crank and no start.
I had a similar problem this spring the first time I got it out for the season, I attributed it to the fuel system losing prime and air trapped in the line. I pulled the fuel line off the injector and turned on the key until gas ran out, hooked it back up and that solved the problem. I tried that same thing today and just barely got a trickle out of the fuel line at first, and then nothing. The fuel pump sounds like it's running for a few seconds everytime I cycle the key, but no gas out of the line at all.
I know the mower is still under warranty, but I hate to call the dealer for something simple, Figured I'd ask here to see if anyone has a suggestion before going that route.
Thanks
Paul
flywheel removal ?
I have a riding lawnmower with a briggs and stratton 17.5 hp ohv. Just would like to know, What size flywheel puller do I need to get the job done? How could I have mad this post yesterday at 11:59 if I just joined today, no more than 20 minutes ago?
31 hp vanguard problems.
Hello everyone. Let me start by saying from the few posts I've seen from this site you guys seem very knowledgeable. I'm happy to be Be a member and this is my first post.
I have a 31 hp vanguard engine. Now this engine is not on a lawn mower i actually have it on a Go Devil mud motor. But I'm assuming you guys can still help. My problem is i bought this motor and it started and ran good. I was out and about cruising around and hit a stump which is fine these motors are made to go in stumpy areas. As soon as i hit the stump the engine sounded different. It went from a nice smoothe hum to more of a big block rumble. I also had zero throttle response. So i limped it back to shore. Once i got it hone irealized the little rod that opens or closes the throttle bounced out when Ii hit the log. So i fixed it and started it up. Still sounds loud and seems to be running very rich (back firing) and still no throttle response. So i change the plugs. They were fowler bad! And actually the guy had the wrong ones in there. He had the short ones in. So i put te correct ones in and tried it and it starts easier but still no throttle response and running rich. So i smell the oil and it smells badly of gas. Does anyone have any ideas where to start here? I know it could be the carb or possibly the fuel pump. Any help is greatly appreciated. I am poor and will be fixing this in my garage! ! Hahahaha
I have a 31 hp vanguard engine. Now this engine is not on a lawn mower i actually have it on a Go Devil mud motor. But I'm assuming you guys can still help. My problem is i bought this motor and it started and ran good. I was out and about cruising around and hit a stump which is fine these motors are made to go in stumpy areas. As soon as i hit the stump the engine sounded different. It went from a nice smoothe hum to more of a big block rumble. I also had zero throttle response. So i limped it back to shore. Once i got it hone irealized the little rod that opens or closes the throttle bounced out when Ii hit the log. So i fixed it and started it up. Still sounds loud and seems to be running very rich (back firing) and still no throttle response. So i change the plugs. They were fowler bad! And actually the guy had the wrong ones in there. He had the short ones in. So i put te correct ones in and tried it and it starts easier but still no throttle response and running rich. So i smell the oil and it smells badly of gas. Does anyone have any ideas where to start here? I know it could be the carb or possibly the fuel pump. Any help is greatly appreciated. I am poor and will be fixing this in my garage! ! Hahahaha
fh500v guides kawasaki
Hi,
Does anybody know a source for oversize valve guides for a Kawasaki fh500v?
Thanks in advance
Does anybody know a source for oversize valve guides for a Kawasaki fh500v?
Thanks in advance
drive fluid
Hey ya ll. got a 97 model 42" yard machine. Wanting to change out hydro-trans fluid. Is there not a drain plug somewhere or do I need to pump it out of the breather hose? Thanks for any input.
Introducing myself
Hi, I am joining you from Whitemans Valley, New Zealand (about 50Ks north-east of the capital city Wellington). I have a small landholding with a lot of grass that needs mowing - so the subject of lawn mowers, their repairs and performance, are very much part of my life :rolleyes:
I have two ride-ons, both of which I bought thinking they were just what I needed. The older one, circa 1995, is a Husqvarna CT130. It struggles to cope with NZ's prolific grass growth and the rear discharge shute just clogs up. Also dead useless on mulch mow - and it goes through belts in no time at all. I retired it with blown head-gasket in 2004 and bought a Troy-bilt White RZT42. Plenty of grunt but sinks into soft ground as very heavy. Consequently I experience skidding and bogging in winter which makes a real mess of the ground. I am in the process of pulling the B&S Intek 19.0 engine apart to assess damage from a broken con-rod. I am not a mechanic so it is a very interesting learning exercise. Have replaced the gasket and serviced the old Husqvarna and got it going. Started to mow for the second time on Sunday, and guess what? Yep, the deck belt snapped - so nothing changed there. Cheers to All.:biggrin:
I have two ride-ons, both of which I bought thinking they were just what I needed. The older one, circa 1995, is a Husqvarna CT130. It struggles to cope with NZ's prolific grass growth and the rear discharge shute just clogs up. Also dead useless on mulch mow - and it goes through belts in no time at all. I retired it with blown head-gasket in 2004 and bought a Troy-bilt White RZT42. Plenty of grunt but sinks into soft ground as very heavy. Consequently I experience skidding and bogging in winter which makes a real mess of the ground. I am in the process of pulling the B&S Intek 19.0 engine apart to assess damage from a broken con-rod. I am not a mechanic so it is a very interesting learning exercise. Have replaced the gasket and serviced the old Husqvarna and got it going. Started to mow for the second time on Sunday, and guess what? Yep, the deck belt snapped - so nothing changed there. Cheers to All.:biggrin:
Slow mow
My Father-in-law recently got a 2004 troybilt super bronco. Joker drives slow. I adjusted belt tension on pedal, helped a little. We then noticed that someone took out the 21hp engine and installed a 17hp engine. Is it possible that the drive pulleys are of different diameter, causing the lack of speed?
Hard to start
So my 6.5 husk varna push mower will crank ever 10 or so pulls but only if I tilt the mower and press the bulb. Could this be fuel line issue or primer bulb issue. Card has been thoroughly cleaned. Don't have and model numbers on me for the mower.
JD 345 FC590V valve adjustment procedure
What are the specs and procedure for adjusting the valves on a 95 JD 345 FC590V? What is the torque for the valve cover bolts? Thanks in advance< Cliff
XD3 Troubleshooting
Does anyone know what causes the XD3 push mower to back fire after you let go of the clutch?
Kohler push mower starts fine the first time
Kohler push mower starts fine the first time of day, cut grass turn off empty bag and then will not start. New plug. The mower is a fairly new, it is an Ariens Courage XT-6. It just wont start once it is hot.
new from Bucks COunty PA
hi new guy here. been lurking for years. Between my garage, the driveway and the marina i maintain 17 motors.
4 diesel
the rest gas range from twin 502s LS1 Boxer turbo and so on. I forgot the Kohler 25s spec 68652 CH sitting on my bench that needs a rebuild.
My current project is a cv730 0017 which is acting like it has key shear.
The first engine i ever tore into was a 429 out of a 65 caddy SDV I did it outdoors in a Chicago winter.
luv old caddies!!
4 diesel
the rest gas range from twin 502s LS1 Boxer turbo and so on. I forgot the Kohler 25s spec 68652 CH sitting on my bench that needs a rebuild.
My current project is a cv730 0017 which is acting like it has key shear.
The first engine i ever tore into was a 429 out of a 65 caddy SDV I did it outdoors in a Chicago winter.
luv old caddies!!
right lever on zero turn is stiff.
the right lever on my 2006 cub cadet z force 50 will not move. it is super stiff. i removed linkage from front of the right hydro pump and the shaft going into the front is almost frozen solid. it will rotate if you really pry on it. almost acts like it is rusted solid but no rust visible. if you get it to turn the wheels move as they should. it is just way too stiff. is there a cause or fix for this as the mower is in good shape and runs great.
LT 155 cranks but won't start after being parked on sharp incline
After parking my tractor down a steep hill (nose first) I can't get it to start. I've rolled it down to a flat area. It has fuel in the tank. I haven't checked spark yet. Any idea I what I should do next?
mower getting intermittent spark?
I have a troy-bilt mower with a 5.5HP tecumseh motor, at least i think its 5.5HP. Its running like its getting intermittent spark then it shuts off and will not start again for a long period of time. then as expected it will run for several minutes just fine and then it act like intermittent spark and eventually die again. any ideas? all advice will be greatly appreciated.
Broken Blade Mount Housing On Riding Mower
I hit a piece of rebar sticking up out of the ground and the aluminum blade mount housing broke. I think it is called the spindle housing.
Where is the best place to get one ? Are these generic parts of which I might find a used one on an old cutting deck ?
My riding mower is a Poulan though my neighbor has one exactly like it, 'cept it's orange and called an Ariens.
My Poulon product number is 960160024, Model number PXT175G42, S/N 101910D006273.
Thanks in advance.
Where is the best place to get one ? Are these generic parts of which I might find a used one on an old cutting deck ?
My riding mower is a Poulan though my neighbor has one exactly like it, 'cept it's orange and called an Ariens.
My Poulon product number is 960160024, Model number PXT175G42, S/N 101910D006273.
Thanks in advance.
Repairs Snapper RE Front Wheels Wobble
I have a 2013 Snapper rear engine rider. Yesterday when I had the front end jacked up to adjust the wheel alignment I noticed that you could "wobble" the front wheels with your hands. You can move them in an out on the axle and wobble them left and right. I popped off the black plastic cap to adjust the castle nut and found an "E" spring clip instead of a nut. There are gaps between outer washer and the wheels allowing them to move in and out. There also is some "slop" in the bearing allowing the wheel to wobble.
Anyone else have this issue or know of a fix? The mower is still under warranty but I have to take it about 30 miles to the dealer.
Rick
Anyone else have this issue or know of a fix? The mower is still under warranty but I have to take it about 30 miles to the dealer.
Rick
HUSQVARNA LTH120 WITH 38 INCH MOWER DECK DIAGRAM
I need a diagram for the LTH120 riding mower deck installation that specifically shows where the parts are connected to. On this deck it is a mystery as where the Deck clutch cable with spring from the engage/disengage cable from the panel. I've looked at the parts diagrams and they don't show anything but the parts. I 've contacted Husqvarna, and they were no help whatsoever. There is also a smaller spring that is on the deck and that is a mystery also. If a detailed diagram is available it would be appreciated if you would share.
Thank you
KER
Thank you
KER
Engine smoking
I have a John Deere 345 mower with a 54 in. deck (95 or 96 year model), with an 18hp kawasaki motor. I started getting excessive smoking everytime I start it up. This got worse each use till I had to do something to find the cause. I found that the valve covers were melted on the bottom, these seem to be made of some sort of high temp plastic. I replaced the valve covers only to melt the new ones. The exhaust pipes going to the muffler are directly below these covers so I took the muffler off to see if it was clogged causing excessive heat, but no problems were found. I'm a bit stumped about what's going on now, any help would be appreciated.
dimanche 28 septembre 2014
Crafts man steering help!!!
Hi I have recently acquired a crafts man 18 hp it is one of those old silver coloured ones but the reason it was not in service any more is the steering is gone in it and I don't want it get a new steering system for it and was wondering if any one knows of another way to rig something that will work
JD 345 FC590V valve adjustment procedure
What are the specs and procedure for adjusting the valves on a 95 JD 345 FC590V? What is the torque for the valve cover bolts? Thanks in advance< Cliff
XD3 Troubleshooting
Does anyone know what causes the XD3 push mower to back fire after you let go of the clutch?
Kohler push mower starts fine the first time
Kohler push mower starts fine the first time of day, cut grass turn off empty bag and then will not start. New plug. The mower is a fairly new, it is an Ariens Courage XT-6. It just wont start once it is hot.
new from Bucks COunty PA
hi new guy here. been lurking for years. Between my garage, the driveway and the marina i maintain 17 motors.
4 diesel
the rest gas range from twin 502s LS1 Boxer turbo and so on. I forgot the Kohler 25s spec 68652 CH sitting on my bench that needs a rebuild.
My current project is a cv730 0017 which is acting like it has key shear.
The first engine i ever tore into was a 429 out of a 65 caddy SDV I did it outdoors in a Chicago winter.
luv old caddies!!
4 diesel
the rest gas range from twin 502s LS1 Boxer turbo and so on. I forgot the Kohler 25s spec 68652 CH sitting on my bench that needs a rebuild.
My current project is a cv730 0017 which is acting like it has key shear.
The first engine i ever tore into was a 429 out of a 65 caddy SDV I did it outdoors in a Chicago winter.
luv old caddies!!
JD LT133 charging problem
The battery isn't charging on my JD LT133. Upon investigation, I found a broken black wire coming off a four pin connector. I think (guess) it's coming from the voltage regulator, it splits into a two wire (black and yellow) between the engine and the connector. When I touch the black wire to it's broken connector it archs even though the mower is off.
I think I should just disconnect the battery and repair the connection. Any advice?
I think I should just disconnect the battery and repair the connection. Any advice?
16.5 HP OHV - thought I had a compression problem
I recently traded a handgun for a Craftsman riding lawn mower.
The guy I got it from told me it was a little hard to start, but if you rotated the engine past the compression cycle that it usually starts right up. He was correct in that part.
After reading online, I found that there are a few things that cause high compression on these engines, so I initially adjusted the valves and that actually seemed like it solved my problem.
Now, a few weeks later, I have run into the very same issue where it is hard to start. I thought that it is possible that the valves have gone out of adjustment, so I looked at that again. Upon further searching, I found that some directions online for adjusting the valves are inaccurate. The big discrepancy is they say to rotate the engine 1/4" past TDC, when actually it is to rotate the engine where the piston moves down 1/4" past top dead center. Once I got that cleared up I was hoping it would start....nope!
I then found that it is possible that the compression release mechanism on the cam shaft could be faulty. After rotating the engine while viewing the rockers and valves, I can clearly see when the cam is rotated over the compression release, as the bottom valve slightly opens then closes, so I know that part of the system is in place and functional.
The next thing I read is that there can be carbon build-up on the head which could cause higher compression than normal. I pulled the head and inspected it. It really wasn't that bad, but I did clean off what bit of carbon was present.
I see that the starter has been replaced and seems to be one of the newest parts to the engine, but I am actually thinking that there may be a few coils inside that have heated up and thus isn't producing as much torque as necessary to rotate this bad boy. I did pull it off and disassembled it. I really couldn't see anything wrong, but it did appear that some of the coating was melted off of some of the coils. The brushes and everything else inside looked to be in really good shape.
I removed the spark plug and the starter can easily rotate the engine with no issues, but once the plug is black in, the compression is just too much for it to get it started. From everything I have read thus far. I think it is the starter and if I replace it that should solve my problems.
Anyone else have any ideas as to my trouble?
The guy I got it from told me it was a little hard to start, but if you rotated the engine past the compression cycle that it usually starts right up. He was correct in that part.
After reading online, I found that there are a few things that cause high compression on these engines, so I initially adjusted the valves and that actually seemed like it solved my problem.
Now, a few weeks later, I have run into the very same issue where it is hard to start. I thought that it is possible that the valves have gone out of adjustment, so I looked at that again. Upon further searching, I found that some directions online for adjusting the valves are inaccurate. The big discrepancy is they say to rotate the engine 1/4" past TDC, when actually it is to rotate the engine where the piston moves down 1/4" past top dead center. Once I got that cleared up I was hoping it would start....nope!
I then found that it is possible that the compression release mechanism on the cam shaft could be faulty. After rotating the engine while viewing the rockers and valves, I can clearly see when the cam is rotated over the compression release, as the bottom valve slightly opens then closes, so I know that part of the system is in place and functional.
The next thing I read is that there can be carbon build-up on the head which could cause higher compression than normal. I pulled the head and inspected it. It really wasn't that bad, but I did clean off what bit of carbon was present.
I see that the starter has been replaced and seems to be one of the newest parts to the engine, but I am actually thinking that there may be a few coils inside that have heated up and thus isn't producing as much torque as necessary to rotate this bad boy. I did pull it off and disassembled it. I really couldn't see anything wrong, but it did appear that some of the coating was melted off of some of the coils. The brushes and everything else inside looked to be in really good shape.
I removed the spark plug and the starter can easily rotate the engine with no issues, but once the plug is black in, the compression is just too much for it to get it started. From everything I have read thus far. I think it is the starter and if I replace it that should solve my problems.
Anyone else have any ideas as to my trouble?
Honda engine identification
I'm SO glad to have found this place ! :) I'm a 45 year old heavy equipment tech/millwright who's been messing with engines my entire life. I'm the guy friends and family bring their stuff to when it won't run. Growing up, ALL of my friends and family fixed their own stuff. As time marches on, I'm finding that I have fewer and fewer people to just have a bull session with, concerning engines and repair. They've stopped teaching anything about carbs in all the automotive colleges now, and I seem to be feeling more and more alone in the world. LOL !
Anyway....... I've got an issue with a motor I bought a while ago from a buy and sell ad.
It's a Honda GX200 - QH26 - s/n GCAE-1041313......I need the throttle and governor return springs for this thing. For the life of me, I can't find a parts breakdown with all the information matching. GX200 - QH26 but serial number prefix won't match. Find the correct serial number prefix, and the model doesn't match. Am I missing something here ? There's hundreds of different flavors of GX200 out there, and I've found a few different springs online listed for the same application, but the springs are different. Any help with finding a parts breakdown for this specific engine would be GREATLY appreciated. Thanks guys.
Looking forward to helping out where I can now that I've found the place !
Here's a pic of the serial number.
Anyway....... I've got an issue with a motor I bought a while ago from a buy and sell ad.
It's a Honda GX200 - QH26 - s/n GCAE-1041313......I need the throttle and governor return springs for this thing. For the life of me, I can't find a parts breakdown with all the information matching. GX200 - QH26 but serial number prefix won't match. Find the correct serial number prefix, and the model doesn't match. Am I missing something here ? There's hundreds of different flavors of GX200 out there, and I've found a few different springs online listed for the same application, but the springs are different. Any help with finding a parts breakdown for this specific engine would be GREATLY appreciated. Thanks guys.
Looking forward to helping out where I can now that I've found the place !
Here's a pic of the serial number.
Sod vs. Seed for small Areas ?
A friend asked: In a 3,000 ft2 established Bluegrass lawn there are a few areas measuring 3 inches to 16 inches in diameter which need new lawn. Would you:
1. Clean each area and wait for the lawn to grown in ?
2. Patch sod, since the exact replacement is available ?
3. Seed ?
One problem with seeding is keeping each area moist several times a day.
1. Clean each area and wait for the lawn to grown in ?
2. Patch sod, since the exact replacement is available ?
3. Seed ?
One problem with seeding is keeping each area moist several times a day.
Blower will idle but shuts off if you touch the gas
Hi, I have a sears best/ craftsman blower, vac mulcher 32cc, 170 mph, 360 cfm. with a walbro carb wa219b. I have done a rebuild on the carb, only has one removable needle. at two turns out the blower will run at idle but as soon as you touch the gas it dies. What am I missing?
convertible mower
Has anyone used this machine and how would you rate them for heavy commercial use ?
Also is the rear discharge machine good at long wet grass ?
Also is the rear discharge machine good at long wet grass ?
LGREENE999
I have a scag mower that is having a problem keeping the battery charged. The battery is new, the alternator is new and the voltage reg is new. Checked the output of the alternator and is between 13.8 and 14 volts. If the mower sits for a few days the battery stays charged. It seems to loose charge when the blades are engaged. Showed no draw on the battery when the mower is off. The year is 2006. Model # is STC48V-26BS, the motor model is 44P777 Type 0115 E1. Thanks in advance for any help.
13.5 hp briggs
I asked Fish to move my original thread here but I guess it takes time. ANYWAY -
I finished mowing yestrday and the engine started to make a wierd noise - something like CLUNG, CLUNG, CLUNG with a reduction in rpm-s, then back up to normal rpm-s then CLUNG again and so forth.
I started dis-assembly today and the valves are still in one piece. the pushrods were still where they belong, there was no metal filings in the valve chamber.
The upper pushrod with the red stripe was still ok. the bottom pushrod didn't look like the upper one. The ends were polished at the very ends. There was no appearance of the ball end like the upper one.
Its that noise that's got me stumped. Later today I'm going to remove the head.
I finished mowing yestrday and the engine started to make a wierd noise - something like CLUNG, CLUNG, CLUNG with a reduction in rpm-s, then back up to normal rpm-s then CLUNG again and so forth.
I started dis-assembly today and the valves are still in one piece. the pushrods were still where they belong, there was no metal filings in the valve chamber.
The upper pushrod with the red stripe was still ok. the bottom pushrod didn't look like the upper one. The ends were polished at the very ends. There was no appearance of the ball end like the upper one.
Its that noise that's got me stumped. Later today I'm going to remove the head.
Repairs brake cable broke
anyone experienced in replacing the brake cable on 8.75 weedeater one riding mower?
Engine No Diesel Power
I have a John Deere 430 Garden Tractor with a Yanmar 3-cylinder diesel engine. It has lost power and will stumble and stall under any load. It seems fuel related but I have replaced the fuel and air filters. My grass is getting long.
G5 Gator Blades for sale
These blades have maybe 15 hours on them. They have been professionally sharpened and are ready to be used.
Dimensions are:18"L x 3"W .625" dia. hole
Oregon p/n = 596-344
Reason I am selling as I no longer have the mower I bought them for.
No reasonable offer refused. The agreed to price will include shipping but I have to see if the blades will fit into a USPS Flat Rate Box and how much it will be. So please be patient on this part.
PayPal preferred.
Dimensions are:18"L x 3"W .625" dia. hole
Oregon p/n = 596-344
Reason I am selling as I no longer have the mower I bought them for.
No reasonable offer refused. The agreed to price will include shipping but I have to see if the blades will fit into a USPS Flat Rate Box and how much it will be. So please be patient on this part.
PayPal preferred.
What would you do
As a lawn-care business your faced with competition daily and sometimes decisions have to be made. Friday I was at a clients mowing lawn and noticed an individual up the street watching me and waiting for me to finish the lawn I was doing and I know he was wanting me to mow his lawn because I'd mowed it before. Before I could get finished another service pulled up and the individual flagged him down and asked him to do his lawn, well they talked a couple of minutes and the service went across the street to service his client.
While all this was going on I finished my client up and moved up the street to do another up two houses from the other service and the guy tried to flag me down to ask me the same question about doing his lawn. Before I gave him a price and an a answer I talked to the service that had been there and the guy said he gave him a price of $40 to do his lawn but the guy said he'd only pay $25. ( Keep in mind the guy's lawn was like 12 or more inches deep)
Now the Question. Do you respect the $40 price given by the first service and proceed to your next client or do you under cut (Lowball the first service) and do the lawn for $25?
While all this was going on I finished my client up and moved up the street to do another up two houses from the other service and the guy tried to flag me down to ask me the same question about doing his lawn. Before I gave him a price and an a answer I talked to the service that had been there and the guy said he gave him a price of $40 to do his lawn but the guy said he'd only pay $25. ( Keep in mind the guy's lawn was like 12 or more inches deep)
Now the Question. Do you respect the $40 price given by the first service and proceed to your next client or do you under cut (Lowball the first service) and do the lawn for $25?
Air Filters
Hi everyone, I changed both air filters on my Grasshopper. I read where a dirty filter is better than a clean one. Could this be true? I can't hardly believe this.----Cambre
samedi 27 septembre 2014
Engine Toro/WH 523dxi Starter Issue
Hi,
Curious if anyone has experienced starter issues with a Toro/WH 523dxi? Specifically, issues with the starter bendix not disengaging after the engine starts.
Immediately after starting the tractor the glow plug indicator lights back up. When I shut down the engine I can hear the start wind down. I've verified that the starter is engaged with the engine running by visually inspecting it while running. When I shut down the engine the starter disengages.
The starter looks to be securely mounted to the engine so I don't think the issue is due to misalignment. Additionally, the starter shaft surface appears to be clean and I've sprayed some lube on the shaft while the engine was running with the starter gear engaged with the flywheel.
Normally, I would just replace the starter but it's discontinued and available NOS units are approx. $475. I don't have any issues buying a replacement but want to make sure it's going to resolve the issue before doing so.
Any insights/recommendations anyone can offer are greatly appreciated.
Regards
Curious if anyone has experienced starter issues with a Toro/WH 523dxi? Specifically, issues with the starter bendix not disengaging after the engine starts.
Immediately after starting the tractor the glow plug indicator lights back up. When I shut down the engine I can hear the start wind down. I've verified that the starter is engaged with the engine running by visually inspecting it while running. When I shut down the engine the starter disengages.
The starter looks to be securely mounted to the engine so I don't think the issue is due to misalignment. Additionally, the starter shaft surface appears to be clean and I've sprayed some lube on the shaft while the engine was running with the starter gear engaged with the flywheel.
Normally, I would just replace the starter but it's discontinued and available NOS units are approx. $475. I don't have any issues buying a replacement but want to make sure it's going to resolve the issue before doing so.
Any insights/recommendations anyone can offer are greatly appreciated.
Regards
Ferris fast vac belt coming off
So I bought a new belt and installed it and it keeps falling off. Seems tight enough. Does anybody have experience with these fast vac blowers? Any adjustment suggestions. It's a ferris is500 with the fast vac collection system on it. Thanks
Troy Bilt 50" mower decklift handle spring broken, need help replacing
I have a Troy Bilt 50" mustang mower that broke the spring on the deck lift handle rod. I do not know how to get the old one off, let alone get the new one on. Has any one put one on before.
Thank you very much!
Ken
Thank you very much!
Ken
Replace deck lift handlerod spring
How to replace the deck lift handle rod spring on a Troy Bilt 50" zero turn Mustang mower
m60 died on steep hill, now won't start
Hello, I was mowing a steep hill and the mower died. Very steep hill, shouldn't have been mowing it.. it rolled down and wouldn't start.. I have checked it over and nothing. No noise or anything when turn key.. help please. It's Kohler 27hp
Kohler command 27 died on steep hill, won't start now
I have a cub cadet tank m60 with the Kohler 27 hp. I was mowing steep hill, very dumb as it died at top and luckily rolled on all four wheels down.. when it got to bottom I tried starting it up and nothing.. no noise or won't crank nothing.. help please!!
Honda GCV160 Hard Start (Not Choking)
Hi,
Has anyone come across problems with the Honda GCV160 not starting when cold? I have sourced the problem to what appears to be choke not fully choking. I don't see any way to make an adjustment of the choke. Any ideas? I have a temporary fix using a stick to hold the choke on while starting, but a permanent solution would be great.
Has anyone come across problems with the Honda GCV160 not starting when cold? I have sourced the problem to what appears to be choke not fully choking. I don't see any way to make an adjustment of the choke. Any ideas? I have a temporary fix using a stick to hold the choke on while starting, but a permanent solution would be great.
HI-Dump
I currently have the 20Hp Walker. Im looking to upgrade so I can get the high dump to make fall clean ups easier. Dose anyone have this on there machine and if so can you tell me how you like it and is it worth it. Thanks
FAILED INGITION COIL ON JD #757
I was working on a John Deere 757 with Kawasaki engine # FH721DA59024 miss fire at full throttle under load with blades one. I checked the left spark plug and it was white, checking the right spark plug it was black. So I ohm checked from the laminated center post that the coil goes around to the end of the spark plug wire and came up with 18.6 and 17.6 respectively and Kawasaki says 2-18 ohms are in spec. So I checked a known good coil from another engine and it checked 12.3 ohms. Then I checked a new pair of coils out of the box and found 16.9-19.2.
Well coils must be ok so I put a spark plug tester at the end of the spark plug wire and both coils were firing although the engine would not run of one cylinder. Since it ran good up to full power and wide open throttle I took the carb apart and saw that the butterflies were not opening all the way so I took care of that and richened up the main jets. Still same problem so I installed the new coils and it ran perfect then.
My question is there not a better way to check ignition coils on today's engine that are on so many of products out there?
Thank you for this space.
Coker
Well coils must be ok so I put a spark plug tester at the end of the spark plug wire and both coils were firing although the engine would not run of one cylinder. Since it ran good up to full power and wide open throttle I took the carb apart and saw that the butterflies were not opening all the way so I took care of that and richened up the main jets. Still same problem so I installed the new coils and it ran perfect then.
My question is there not a better way to check ignition coils on today's engine that are on so many of products out there?
Thank you for this space.
Coker
Traction Belts
I am new to this forum and have a question about my Toro Time Cutter SS 5000. The manual that came with my mower mentions traction belts, I would like to know where these are located? The only belts I see are the drive belt, and the belt that operates the two small fans above the hydrostatic transmissions. Thanks in advance for any information that you can give me.
insturment panel
working on a Massey Ferguson 2925 , made by simplicity as mod #1693135. I need a parts list and diagram for the instrument panel Part # 1715907SM, or a source for good used parts.
insturment panel
I have a MF 2925, same as Simplicity 1693135. I need a parts list and wiring diagram for the instrument panel, or a source for used parts(no longer avail new)
lawnboy cvc160
won't start suddenly. usually starts second pull. seems to be no spark? ck plug and it was loose? used quick start doesn't help.
Yardman Noises
Mowed the lawn today 9/27/14 and am getting some wierd noises from it. At high rpms doesn't sound too bad but at half throttle to low makes a noise like "CLUNG, CLUNG, CLUNG.' Rpms go up and down between clungs. I know it means engine work but where to look first? Can't be the crankshaft because two pulleys come off the shaft. Any ideas? Valves? Pushrods? 13.5 Briggs. Fall/Winter project.
Makes the noise without the mower deck engaged.
Makes the noise without the mower deck engaged.
7024 "bricktop" off switch (knob) not working right
what i have noticed is that once i turn the knob to off it sputters but then keeps going. but if i slowly turn it back to on, there is a spot where it will turn off at. I have lightly sanded both the screw it touches and the metal "thing" that grounds it to turn it off. still hasn't had a "normal" shutoff. Any suggestions on what to clean as i know that its a matter of finding a corroded point or something but dont know where to start. Any suggestions?:confused:
if you want a pic of it i will get a close up of the (don't even know how to describe it without looking stupid :() metal point that turn it off.
Don't make fun of how i described the off switch as i dont know what to call it.:mur::ashamed:
if you want a pic of it i will get a close up of the (don't even know how to describe it without looking stupid :() metal point that turn it off.
Don't make fun of how i described the off switch as i dont know what to call it.:mur::ashamed:
Looking for deck gear box bearing
I have a Snapper zero turn mower deck ZM5200M that has shelled out the top bearing on the right angle gear box.
The parts manual replaces the whole gear box. I am looking for just the bearing.
Any ideas on where to look?
If I were to look for one at Fastenal, what info do I need? Inside diameter, outside diameter, and width/height?
Ben
The parts manual replaces the whole gear box. I am looking for just the bearing.
Any ideas on where to look?
If I were to look for one at Fastenal, what info do I need? Inside diameter, outside diameter, and width/height?
Ben
21.5 Kaw FR engine gas usage per hour
Just over a month ago I bought a new Toro ZTR SS4260 with a Kawasaki 21.5 FR engine in it..
First zero turn, & first V-twin mower engine. Just for use at my place, was curious to what other members might be using, gas wise per hour approx ?
I only use 100% gas, & only have 10.7 hours on this mower now. (also) Will gas usage improve as engine gets better broke-in ?
Appreciate any input.
PS: I tried using the "Search function" but couldn't find anything helpful.
Buddy
First zero turn, & first V-twin mower engine. Just for use at my place, was curious to what other members might be using, gas wise per hour approx ?
I only use 100% gas, & only have 10.7 hours on this mower now. (also) Will gas usage improve as engine gets better broke-in ?
Appreciate any input.
PS: I tried using the "Search function" but couldn't find anything helpful.
Buddy
vendredi 26 septembre 2014
Just found grubs deep under my lawn. Best treatment ?
My lawn has never had insect problems, but today I did the "pull test" and it was positive in one area. I removed the lawn and it detached well.
Digging a little further there were about eight "C" shaped grubs spaced evenly in just an 8" square area.
Which product available at Home Depot or Orchard Supply Hardware would be the best and safest to use ?
Part of the lawn is near a Meyer Lemon tree. How far from this tree should this product not be applied ?
Looking at webpages, seems I should apply DYLOX, as it is four months after May. Should I also use Bayer Advanced ?
Digging a little further there were about eight "C" shaped grubs spaced evenly in just an 8" square area.
Which product available at Home Depot or Orchard Supply Hardware would be the best and safest to use ?
Part of the lawn is near a Meyer Lemon tree. How far from this tree should this product not be applied ?
Looking at webpages, seems I should apply DYLOX, as it is four months after May. Should I also use Bayer Advanced ?
Kohler sv600
As everyone here knows this engine has issues with the crankcases . I have four engines I am going to try to build one good engine out of the 4 I have . Two of the engines have holes in the cases the other two broken parts inside . What are common issues with these engines ?
Stihl FS46 Trimmer Won't Run...tried everything I can think of.
I've got a Stihl FS46 trimmer. It's about 5 years old but was used very sparingly for three years before going into storage for the last two. It was always a little hard to start but was running like a champ when it went into storage. I've got it out of storage now, and it won't start. With everything I've tried, I've never heard a single combustion cycle. It doesn't even try.
It was properly drained of fuel before it went into storage. Since I've been trying to get it started I've replaced the spark plug, cleaned the brush contacts, and confirmed a good strong spark. No breakage in the fuel lines and they're still like new. After that I disassembled the carb and cleaned it, but when that produced no results, I bought a replacement carb. No change. Fuel is getting into the cylinder. So I checked the compression which is at ~110psi. I feel like that is a little low, but I'm not sure, so I disassembled the piston/cylinder to check out the rings. They weren't seized, no signs of excessive wear, and everything looked relatively good. Cylinder walls look like new and very little sign of blow-by on the piston. I cleaned everything up and after doing so it looks like new. Reassembled with the exhaust/muffler off to eliminate that as a source of problems. Rechecked the compression and no change, still 110psi. Still doesn't even try to start.
All of this was with the air filter off. This thing is about as simple a combustion engine as you can get so it's driving me nuts that I can't get it running. Fuel, air, spark. Simple. At this point I'd be happy just to have the fuel ignited in the cylinder once while I pull the starter string, even if it doesn't run.
Is 110psi low for this trimmer? Enough to prevent any ignition? If so does anybody have the part number for new piston rings? What else should I look at?
Thanks for the help.
It was properly drained of fuel before it went into storage. Since I've been trying to get it started I've replaced the spark plug, cleaned the brush contacts, and confirmed a good strong spark. No breakage in the fuel lines and they're still like new. After that I disassembled the carb and cleaned it, but when that produced no results, I bought a replacement carb. No change. Fuel is getting into the cylinder. So I checked the compression which is at ~110psi. I feel like that is a little low, but I'm not sure, so I disassembled the piston/cylinder to check out the rings. They weren't seized, no signs of excessive wear, and everything looked relatively good. Cylinder walls look like new and very little sign of blow-by on the piston. I cleaned everything up and after doing so it looks like new. Reassembled with the exhaust/muffler off to eliminate that as a source of problems. Rechecked the compression and no change, still 110psi. Still doesn't even try to start.
All of this was with the air filter off. This thing is about as simple a combustion engine as you can get so it's driving me nuts that I can't get it running. Fuel, air, spark. Simple. At this point I'd be happy just to have the fuel ignited in the cylinder once while I pull the starter string, even if it doesn't run.
Is 110psi low for this trimmer? Enough to prevent any ignition? If so does anybody have the part number for new piston rings? What else should I look at?
Thanks for the help.
things you notice that other LCO's do that irk you
ForumRunner_20140926_211430.png
so I went to bid a new customer for next season. meet with the "decision maker" ect. long story short this is what I saw on the way out. all I could think was why do some companies do stuff like this? this one should be easy to snag, this is how my company presents itself. clean employees, clean equipment, and a clean job.
ForumRunner_20140926_212051.png
so I went to bid a new customer for next season. meet with the "decision maker" ect. long story short this is what I saw on the way out. all I could think was why do some companies do stuff like this? this one should be easy to snag, this is how my company presents itself. clean employees, clean equipment, and a clean job.
ForumRunner_20140926_212051.png
HUSQVARNA LTH120 REPAIR MANUAL NEEDED
I have recently acquired a Husqvarna LTH120 Riding Mower, specifically I am searching for reference material on the installing the 42 " mower deck, there is PTO cable that comes from the panel that has a long spring at the end. If not mistaken I think it connects to the mower deck but where? Also governor adjustment on Briggs 12 hp L head engine model 289707 1179 E1. If any forum members can help me out with these that would be great!
Thank you
KER
Thank you
KER
Repairs Scag Tiger Cub Wheel Motor Removal
I have a seal leaking on the right wheel motor and I have found a repair facility that will rebuild the wheel motor. My question is how do you remove the wheel motor from the motor? And should I drain the hydro oil from the system first? Any additional info would be appreciated.......
Buying out of State
I'm getting tired of continuously rebuilding my 10 year old MTD "Pro" tractor even though the 26Hp B&S Intec is still going strong. I have just about settled on the Husqvarna M-ZT 52. I've talked to the local dealer and they can not come close to the price of On-line stores, but they assure me that they can provide warranty service and are even willing to receive it to get it off the shipping truck. My question is has anyone had any good or bad experience with purchasing from SLEequipment.com in Antioch,TN. or Mowers4Less.com which seems to wants to hide its physical location. Thanks in advance for any help.
Lawn tractor won't turn over
My craftsman lawn tractor won't turn over after someone hit the house and flew off of it. It stopped running when that happened and now nothing happens when the key is turned, not even a sound. What could be wrong?
Repairs wont shut off
I have a toro wheel horse 244-5. It has a new ignition switch. It turns on with the key but will not shut off with the key. Any ideas? Oh yeah somebody tried to jump the celenoid recently.
I have A yt16 ford mower
I have a ford yt16 mower, which seems to have a transmission Problem. It is a 7 speed tranny. The motor runs but when I try to move it, it makes a loud cracking sound and refuses to move.Any advice?ThanX~~~Barry
Cadet LTX1050 or JD D125?
I have been going around and around in circles for the past 2 weeks trying to figure out what kind of mower I want (ZTR vs conventional), finally made my mind up on conventional for now as my yard is just barely 1 acre and I have other needs for my money currently.
I have my selection down to two mowers LTX1050 or D125. The pricing difference is only $1. Local HD has a Cadet LTX1050 marked to $1798 (new, not repaired).
I have read both forums and see a few issues with the 1050 but not much from the D125. Obviously the 1050 is more bang-for-the-buck with 24 HP/50" vs 20 HP/42" but still not sure.
Which is superior? Or any recommendations on similarly priced? Thanks!
I have my selection down to two mowers LTX1050 or D125. The pricing difference is only $1. Local HD has a Cadet LTX1050 marked to $1798 (new, not repaired).
I have read both forums and see a few issues with the 1050 but not much from the D125. Obviously the 1050 is more bang-for-the-buck with 24 HP/50" vs 20 HP/42" but still not sure.
Which is superior? Or any recommendations on similarly priced? Thanks!
Buying advice for a new mower
Hi everyone, we are buying a new house. Its now time for me to upgrade my push mower :). I't has about a 1/2 acre of land with many obstacles. Its on the flat side except for a small section in the front yard which slopes downwards. So i'm thinking on buying a low end (residential) z-turn type mower. I'm looking for 2-3k price range. Locally i pretty much have lowes. I have a Home Depot about 45 minutes away that will deliver for free too. I prefer to buy from lowes just in case there are issues since my store is local but willing to maybe buy from Home Depot. I'm guessing for the amount of property i have a 42-in deck will be fine. I've been looking at the toro mustangs @ lowes. For the 2-3k residential mower are most of the build almost the same? I know many of the brands are all owned my MTD. On the low end does engine choice make that much difference? The mustangs @ lowes all have briggs or kohler engines. If i want a Kawasaki @ lowes i'll have to go with the Hustler Raptor (which i've never heard of before). Now if i'm willing to go to Home Depot they do have the timecutter series that have kawaski engines but then again if i have issues i'm going to get better service locally. Anything other than engine choice i should look at in the price range i'm looking at?
I'm not trying to be rude but please don't anyone reply and say i need a commercial 5-8k mower because i don't and i can't afford that much for a mower. To be honest with you i don't trust buying a used commercial mower when you don't know anything about it. For someone who has a lawn mowing buisness thats a pretty good idea but i don't and don't ever plan to.
Anyways, i probably wont' be buying until spring but i'm doing my research early.
thanks....
I'm not trying to be rude but please don't anyone reply and say i need a commercial 5-8k mower because i don't and i can't afford that much for a mower. To be honest with you i don't trust buying a used commercial mower when you don't know anything about it. For someone who has a lawn mowing buisness thats a pretty good idea but i don't and don't ever plan to.
Anyways, i probably wont' be buying until spring but i'm doing my research early.
thanks....
Won't run with Air filter in place
I have a 2007 46" deck 20 hp Kohler cub cadet mower. It will not stay running with the air cleaner in place. The old one looked new but I replaced it anyway. Still won't run. Take it off and runs like a charm no matter how much load I put on it. Any ideas?
Repairs L130 PTO Problems
I have changed out the PTO, Changed the PTO switch and deck will still not engage.
MURRAY 17.5 HP 6 SPEED MODEL 42001X8 MOWER
I am trying to rewire an old murray lawnmower model 425001x8 17.5 hp. most wires have been hooked up there are two wires on the carb one black the other gray they have been cut need to know what do I hook them to any help would be appreciated
red max back pack blower
my eb7001 blower ran great still today , found that it has a cracked piston below lower piston ring , what would cause this , blower serviced each season, 50/1 fuel mix. thanks, jim::frown:
John Deere LX277 won"t drive forward or back.
It stopped suddenly while mowing my yard. I didn't notice any unusual sounds, the engine still runs and the blades will still engage but it just won"t go.
Mine is the model with front wheel steering.
Mine is the model with front wheel steering.
jeudi 25 septembre 2014
Snapper Restore Project
I started this thread before but had to switch user names because of a conflict with another forum. So I,ll start again. This is the 1987 Snapper #21351. Here,s a start pic and hopefully it will be as close to new when I,m done.
Grease fitting mods to make lubing easier
Hi Troops,
I have done several easy mods to make lubing Scag Zeroturn machines easier to perform periodic lubes.
These involve the push arms which are the triangular shaped mower deck side sway links and the parking brake actuators located behind the drive wheels.
The push arms involve two 90 degree grease fittings positioned in the 12 o'clock position so they can be lubed under the raised seat.
The parking brake actuators involve two 45 degree grease fittings positioned close to the 12 o'clock position, which also can be lubed from above and wheel removal is no longer required to perform this lube.
Check out the pics.
Mad Mackie in CT:laughing::biggrin::smile:PA100008.JPGPA100006.JPGPA100005.JPG
I have done several easy mods to make lubing Scag Zeroturn machines easier to perform periodic lubes.
These involve the push arms which are the triangular shaped mower deck side sway links and the parking brake actuators located behind the drive wheels.
The push arms involve two 90 degree grease fittings positioned in the 12 o'clock position so they can be lubed under the raised seat.
The parking brake actuators involve two 45 degree grease fittings positioned close to the 12 o'clock position, which also can be lubed from above and wheel removal is no longer required to perform this lube.
Check out the pics.
Mad Mackie in CT:laughing::biggrin::smile:PA100008.JPGPA100006.JPGPA100005.JPG
DYT 4000 Problems
Hi ,Just joined this site and I am wondering if anyone out there has a 04 craftsman DYT 4000? I purchased this a week ago and it's burning oil bad. Could it be the head gasket? Also has a problem with the Hydro bucking going forward. Any help would be much appreciated.
Thanks, BigMike
Thanks, BigMike
Country clipper recall
CPSC just recalled about 2000 mowers made in the past few years due to a fire hazard.
Shivvers Recalls Country Clipper Riding Lawn Mowers Due to Fire Hazard | CPSC.gov
Shivvers Recalls Country Clipper Riding Lawn Mowers Due to Fire Hazard | CPSC.gov
1993 10201 carb float height
Hi guys,
Still fighting with the '93 10201 with a walbro lmr 16 carb. Can be a bitch to start cold now and worse hot.Lost throttle control also. Yes, the little protrusion catches in the notch of the throttle lever. All shafts turn freely, so I'm surprised the governor is balky, too.:mad:I've taken it apart twice with trips thru the ultrasonic.
When I first got this it was I pretty bad shape. I posted some pics after I was done fixing it up.
So, I'm chasing possible throttle gremlins. When I originally dismantled carb, I pulled and replaced the needle seat. I could not tell what the height was because the carb was really gummed up, wasn't even sure I'd get the needle out. Anyway, what is the correct float height? Mine is pretty high, Maybe 1/4 inch movement from closed to fully open when holding up-side down. It is nowhere near level and not adjustable. Just wondering if I might not have gotten the seat in all the way!?
I've got way too much money in this, and a new carb is out of the question, though a good used might be a solution.:confused2:
All help appreciated, as always.
Thanks,
Jim
Still fighting with the '93 10201 with a walbro lmr 16 carb. Can be a bitch to start cold now and worse hot.Lost throttle control also. Yes, the little protrusion catches in the notch of the throttle lever. All shafts turn freely, so I'm surprised the governor is balky, too.:mad:I've taken it apart twice with trips thru the ultrasonic.
When I first got this it was I pretty bad shape. I posted some pics after I was done fixing it up.
So, I'm chasing possible throttle gremlins. When I originally dismantled carb, I pulled and replaced the needle seat. I could not tell what the height was because the carb was really gummed up, wasn't even sure I'd get the needle out. Anyway, what is the correct float height? Mine is pretty high, Maybe 1/4 inch movement from closed to fully open when holding up-side down. It is nowhere near level and not adjustable. Just wondering if I might not have gotten the seat in all the way!?
I've got way too much money in this, and a new carb is out of the question, though a good used might be a solution.:confused2:
All help appreciated, as always.
Thanks,
Jim
CHAINSAW
I HAVE A 345 45CC HUSQVARNA CHAINSAW THAT GOT STUCK IN A LARGE OAK TREE. THE BAR GOT STUCK. HAD TO TAKE ENGINE OFF BAR. I NOTICED ONE BAR BOLT MISSING. LOOKS LIKE IT DIDN'T BREAK. THE HOLE WHERE BOLT GOES DOESN'T SEEM TO HAVE THREADS. HOW DO I REPLACE BOLT? ANY HELP WILL BE APPRECIATED. THANKS===CAMBRE
Fuel line push mower
My primer bulb on my troy built push mower isnt getting any gas. Possibly its the fuel line thats cracked but my question is would gas leak out of it if that's the issue or could the crack be so small only air can get through?
Briggs and Stratton Hard to Start When Hot
I have a B & S Model 28B707 1153-E1 10 hp electric start with electronic ignition. It starts fine when cold, but will not start when hot. When trying to start it hot, it will occasionally pop. Any ideas as to what the problem might be? The carburetor is brand new. Spark plug is gapped to spec., but not new.
Fuel line
My primer bulb on my push mower isnt getting any gas, could this be a crack in the fuel line? There's no gas coming out of the fuel line however.
new magneto failure
:confused2: Just wanted to run this past some of the repair guys. Had no spark, troubleshoot and find that my old 8 year old magneto on my 19 hp craftsman B&S failed; that was three weeks ago. Ordered a new one which wasn't cheap. ... tested it and I had spark. Alls good. Mowed my 1 acre lot no problems three weeks ago.
Grass hasn't really grown but thought I would mow it today and the engine turns over but doesn't start. I test out the spark and .. no spark. I take off the ground/kill wire on the magneto and still no spark. I'm hesitant to think its the magneto so I drive into town.. about 7 miles and pick up both a new spark plug and a spark tester. put that on and still nothing which leads me to the magneto again. Anyone see these units die? The small engine guy warned me that lately they flipped all the magneto wiring so it looks backwards when you install it but mine wasn't. Said which way to install on the magneto... not to mention it did work. But I'm wondering if parts like this go bad? I hate to order another $47 dollar part and have that go bad before I know if its just doa or something blow'n the unit. Any ideas? Bastards where I ordered it said they have no warranty on electronic parts....:mad:
Anyone know if you can ohm out the magneto to see if the windings are bad?
Any way to put a meter on the spark output to see if there is a voltage? or good voltage?
grrrrrrrrr........... working on the tractor twice in one month is not the norm. this craftsman has been a pretty good runner.
Grass hasn't really grown but thought I would mow it today and the engine turns over but doesn't start. I test out the spark and .. no spark. I take off the ground/kill wire on the magneto and still no spark. I'm hesitant to think its the magneto so I drive into town.. about 7 miles and pick up both a new spark plug and a spark tester. put that on and still nothing which leads me to the magneto again. Anyone see these units die? The small engine guy warned me that lately they flipped all the magneto wiring so it looks backwards when you install it but mine wasn't. Said which way to install on the magneto... not to mention it did work. But I'm wondering if parts like this go bad? I hate to order another $47 dollar part and have that go bad before I know if its just doa or something blow'n the unit. Any ideas? Bastards where I ordered it said they have no warranty on electronic parts....:mad:
Anyone know if you can ohm out the magneto to see if the windings are bad?
Any way to put a meter on the spark output to see if there is a voltage? or good voltage?
grrrrrrrrr........... working on the tractor twice in one month is not the norm. this craftsman has been a pretty good runner.
belt needed T20p walk behind
Hello. Perhaps someone can help me locate a new belt for a Jacobsen T20p walk behind mower. The belt is for self propelling the mower forward.
None of the dealers I've contacted can help me. The mower is old but works. thanks.
None of the dealers I've contacted can help me. The mower is old but works. thanks.
Exmark 60 inch with kohler 27hp engine, need help starter wont engage
Hi everyone, my starter on a Kohler Command 27hp Engine, won稚 engage, I used a Heavy-duty car battery charger and jump start at the starter solenoid, I can hear the starter engaging but it is just free spinning; it is not engaging with the fly wheel....any idea what could be wrong. I just bought this mower today and the guy told me that the repair shop told them the engine was gone, the previous owner of the mower told me the one day he went to start the engine and he heard a loud noise and starter start spinning freely, he bought another mower and sold this one to me.. Any idea what could be wrong? Is it possible that the tooth on the fly wheel has broken off?
I will really appreciate your help.
Thank You
I will really appreciate your help.
Thank You
Efm Engines
Does anyone have information on efm engines. As I understand it efm in this context is for electronic fuel management. Google is mostly advertisements.
Hard starting wood chipper
I have a Troy Bilt CS4325 chipper/ shredder. To say it starts hard, is an understatement. The only controls, are a choke lever, & a slide, throttle adjustment. As per the instructions; choke, pull 1-3 times. If it doesn't start, open choke & try again. Pulled it 18-20 times, didn't start. Tried this 4-5 times, over 1/2 hr span. Called Lowes. Took it back , & exchanged for another, new, one. The replacement was just as hard, to pull start. I realize, I'm turning a heavy flywheel, but this is ridiculous. Took 8-10 attempts, before it finally started. No complaints, when it runs; its a bear. When you shut down, to add gas & check the oil, it' won't restart. Have to wait 1/2 hour some times before it will restart. I realize, its still under warranty. I can't talk to the repair service, to explain the problem. The first one started right up for the people at Lowes, & I'm afraid this one will do the same. They will think I'm crazy.
Thanks; park4019
Thanks; park4019
Simplicity Champion Z-turn Hydraulic issues
I recently replaced an hydraulic line on my zero turn. I was cutting grass and noticed that forward and reverse on the right side was slowly where getting worse. I stopped the tractor and saw the hydraulic line was all wet. Parked the tractor and bought the hose. Replaced it today and filled up the hydraulic oil with 20/50 oil per the manual. When i try to drive now I get no forward or reverse on right side. Is there a purge procedure for the pump?
I COULD USE SOME MORE HELP.
I FINELY GOT THE CARB FIXED ON MY CRAFTSMAN LAWN TRACTOR (917.255720). It has a Tecumseh engine # 143.406022. However I still have the governor problem. I CAN NOT REGULATE THE THROTTLE BY THE LEVER ON THE DASH . i CAN CHOKE IT BUT CAN'T LOWER OR RAISE THE SPEED OF THE ENGINE. sO i STILL NEED SOMEONE TO TELL EXACTLY HOW TO HOOK UP THE GOVERNOR. WHICH HOLES THE SPRINGS AND RODS GO IN ON THE THROTTLE AND THE 2 LEVERS OF THE THROTTLE ON THE ENGINE.
Briggs and Stratton Engine
The code on the side of my engine is:
126702-0675-B2-0852150
I did a compression test and it is 70 - 75 psi
I have installed a new spark plug and air filter, and topped off the oil (which was very low)
I believe the problem is no spark when I pull the cord.
This mower has been great over the years, always starting on the 1st or 2nd pull.
The other day it started dieing after about 10 seconds of running.
Now it won't start at all.
I like to work on cars, but when I pulled off the hood of this bad boy I found out how little I know about these small engines. I really don't want to drop 2 to 3 hundred on a new mower at this point. What are the next things for me to check?
Here's a pic under the hood in case there is something obvious.
thanks!
126702-0675-B2-0852150
I did a compression test and it is 70 - 75 psi
I have installed a new spark plug and air filter, and topped off the oil (which was very low)
I believe the problem is no spark when I pull the cord.
This mower has been great over the years, always starting on the 1st or 2nd pull.
The other day it started dieing after about 10 seconds of running.
Now it won't start at all.
I like to work on cars, but when I pulled off the hood of this bad boy I found out how little I know about these small engines. I really don't want to drop 2 to 3 hundred on a new mower at this point. What are the next things for me to check?
Here's a pic under the hood in case there is something obvious.
thanks!
New Purchase of older Exmark Metro
Have a chance to pick up a Exmark Metro 26" with a Kawasaki FJ 180 KAI engine for $300.00 The mower is in reasonable shape and the engine runs good, think $300 is to much?
Wheel horse 616-z any use to anyone?
I used this mower last year, but the Onan 16hp engine has coughed its last!
Good mower deck 42" and hydro drives etc etc.
Good mower deck 42" and hydro drives etc etc.
lawn boy happy hunting ground
rescued a 10227 from the curb.took it home cleaned the air box and filter and it started first pull.mowed my lawn with the gas that was in it.drove 80 miles round trip to pick up a 10415 that someone was giving away.it needs a starter rope and handle but runs perfect and will look almost new after cleanup.got 2 gold series duraforce one self propelled easy stride and runs and one that is non sp and needs a few things like primer bulb coil and govenor spring.picked up 2 rear chute and bags for 20.00 too so it looks like I got something to do this weekend.lb4 002.jpglb4 004.jpg
height adjustment lever fell off
While mowing our lawn the height adjuster lever on both the front and rear wheels fell off our troy-bilt push mower.
Duraforce 6.5hp rings?
Rings for "D" and "F" and Silver Series 4.5hp engines are available quite reasonably from 3rd party suppliers. What about DuraForce 6.5hp rings? What is the part number? Are they available from several vendors?
bennyb
I have a 111h and my hydrostatic transmission quit working. It's a Eaton am121302 what one website said. It looks like differential and transmission is all one housing. Is it something that can be rebuilt?
bennyb
Hello everyone. I'm new to this forum. I'm from Missouri and I work for a oil company hauling propane, diesel, and gasoline. I have a John Deere 111h that I purchased used over a year ago. I'm by no means an expert on mowers but I hope I can find some useful help and advice here.
Craftsman Tractor Wont Run...Help not sure what it is.
Hello everyone...
I have a Craftsman tractor Model 917.271014 with a 15.5hp Kohler engine. It has been giving me some problems for some time but recently it just suddenly bogs down and back fires. I went to use it this week and cant even to get it to stay running. It almost sounds like timing to me but I'm not sure what to look for next. It actually ran yesterday while I was working on it then suddenly just shut down. I'm thinking this is electrical just by the way it was runnning fine then suddenly misfired and shut down.
Here is what I have done so far:
Cleaned the carb fully (also tried to use a little starter fluid to see if it was a fuel issue but I get no chancge when sprayed directly into he carb...Actually it seems like it floods it)
New Plug
New Fuel filter
Removed valve cover and checked valves and rods - There is no adjustment on this engine for the valves
Removed Head and checked for scoring (none)
Checked spark at both wire and plug - Good spark
Removed flywheel and checked key to ensure it is not sheared
cleaned the terminals on the ignition magnets
Cleaned electrical connections.
Sorry for the bad video but this will give you an idea of the best I can get it running.
http://ift.tt/1BafLnS
Any help would be great!
I have a Craftsman tractor Model 917.271014 with a 15.5hp Kohler engine. It has been giving me some problems for some time but recently it just suddenly bogs down and back fires. I went to use it this week and cant even to get it to stay running. It almost sounds like timing to me but I'm not sure what to look for next. It actually ran yesterday while I was working on it then suddenly just shut down. I'm thinking this is electrical just by the way it was runnning fine then suddenly misfired and shut down.
Here is what I have done so far:
Cleaned the carb fully (also tried to use a little starter fluid to see if it was a fuel issue but I get no chancge when sprayed directly into he carb...Actually it seems like it floods it)
New Plug
New Fuel filter
Removed valve cover and checked valves and rods - There is no adjustment on this engine for the valves
Removed Head and checked for scoring (none)
Checked spark at both wire and plug - Good spark
Removed flywheel and checked key to ensure it is not sheared
cleaned the terminals on the ignition magnets
Cleaned electrical connections.
Sorry for the bad video but this will give you an idea of the best I can get it running.
http://ift.tt/1BafLnS
Any help would be great!
mercredi 24 septembre 2014
Wont stop
I have a john deere js 63 self propelled walk behind mower it works great but now when i disengage the bail handle mower keeps moving .I took off transmission cover and checked spring tension and it was good . The little metal arm that spring is hooked to moves to the right and rear wheels turn but when i let go of handle the metal arm does not go back to the left, when i took spring off of metal arm on transmission the arm then moved all the way back to the left. What do u think it is ?
About to purchase used mower without deck - Question
I'm thinking about picking up a 6-7 year old Craftsman DYS 4500 26 HP Kohler engine w/150 hours for $500. The mower was originally fitted for a 54” deck. I'm not sure if I'll be able to find an exact replacement deck so I was wondering if I can fit it with other size decks? How different are decks from one craftsman to the next? Thanks for any input. Much appreciated!!!
Cub Cadet CC Rider 30" advice
I'm new to this forum and need some advice. In a nutshell, I have a .46 acre yard, mostly flat with a few trees and shrubs to get around, and it tales me an hour and fifteen minutes to mow the yard with a 21" mower. I also work a 60 hour week and am raising a family, so frequently get behind in my yard work because I have little time to spare. I was thinking of replacing my aging mower with a wider format model to save some time, but have found precious few choices in the category between 21 and 42 inches for the homeowner (non-commercial). I want to buy new, because I'm of the opinion than very few people properly service/maintain their lawn equipment and when you buy used you are buying other people's problems. Also I only have $1200 max to spend. So all there is in this market segment is a Toro Timemaster 30," walk-behind, or a rear engine rider (Troy-built/Craftsman/Cub Cadet CC/ 30"), which all appear to be the same machine at different price points, all made by MTD, which also have mixed reviews, just like the Toro Timemaster. I don't really want a 42" as it seems a little big for my yard and it would take up more room in my crowded garage.
So a few days ago, I purchased a "reconditioned" 2014 Toro Timemaster 30" at Home Depot for $400 off the retail price, thinking I got the deal of the century. I took it back the next day because it ran rough and took a million hard pulls to start each time. I think either the carb was leaking gas into the cylinder from lodged dirt in the float/needle or the compression release valve was stuck. Once I got it running, it cut the grass beautifully. But the engine had troubles. I took the reconditioned one back went to buy a new one, but the lawn and garden manger came up to me and said not to buy it. He said nearly all the Toro Timemasters he's sold this year have been returned for engine trouble. He said to buy one of the many riders they have online for about the same price. I'm torn because the the Toro Timemaster is perfect for my yard, but online reviews and the Homedepot Lawn & Gareden manager paint a picture of unreliability, and $1000.00 is a bit much to pay for a problem machine. I called an Atlanta are independent Toro dealer and they said they don't sell them anymore, just service them because it's not a quality brand anymore and parts are hard to come by. Should I buy the rider instead?
So what would you do if you were in my shoes? Or in my yard?
Much thanks in advance for whatever advice you can give.
So a few days ago, I purchased a "reconditioned" 2014 Toro Timemaster 30" at Home Depot for $400 off the retail price, thinking I got the deal of the century. I took it back the next day because it ran rough and took a million hard pulls to start each time. I think either the carb was leaking gas into the cylinder from lodged dirt in the float/needle or the compression release valve was stuck. Once I got it running, it cut the grass beautifully. But the engine had troubles. I took the reconditioned one back went to buy a new one, but the lawn and garden manger came up to me and said not to buy it. He said nearly all the Toro Timemasters he's sold this year have been returned for engine trouble. He said to buy one of the many riders they have online for about the same price. I'm torn because the the Toro Timemaster is perfect for my yard, but online reviews and the Homedepot Lawn & Gareden manager paint a picture of unreliability, and $1000.00 is a bit much to pay for a problem machine. I called an Atlanta are independent Toro dealer and they said they don't sell them anymore, just service them because it's not a quality brand anymore and parts are hard to come by. Should I buy the rider instead?
So what would you do if you were in my shoes? Or in my yard?
Much thanks in advance for whatever advice you can give.
Dixie chopper engine identification
I have a 66" dixie chopper withe a 33hp generac engine . I would like to know if there is any way to read engine castings to figure out year and size engine. Reason I'm asking is I had a new motor put on chopper 2 years ago . Today it started leaking oil pretty good all of a sudden . After closer investigation I noticed that motor had been tore down before ( since there was a half a tube of rvt used to put engine back together). I continued to search and started running serial numbers and model numbers off the engine plastics. The serial number didn't match the motor I paid for on my invoice it actually arched the original motor . Now I'm trying to see if I have been screwed . These motors come complete as a unit so why would they put my old plastics on my new engine..
Troybuilt 30" rear angine advice
I'm new to this forum and need some advice. In a nutshell, I have a .46 acre yard, mostly flat with a few trees and shrubs to get around, and it tales me an hour and fifteen minutes to mow the yard with a 21" mower. I also work a 60 hour week and am raising a family, so frequently get behind in my yard work because I have little time to spare. I was thinking of replacing my aging mower with a wider format model to save some time, but have found precious few choices in the category between 21 and 42 inches for the homeowner (non-commercial). I want to buy new, because I'm of the opinion than very few people properly service/maintain their lawn equipment and when you buy used you are buying other people's problems. Also I only have $1200 max to spend. So all there is in this market segment is a Toro Timemaster 30," walk-behind, or a rear engine rider (Troy-built/Craftsman/Cub Cadet CC/ 30"), which all appear to be the same machine at different price points, all made by MTD, which also have mixed reviews, just like the Toro Timemaster. I don't really want a 42" as it seems a little big for my yard and it would take up more room in my crowded garage.
So a few days ago, I purchased a "reconditioned" 2014 Toro Timemaster 30" at Home Depot for $400 off the retail price, thinking I got the deal of the century. I took it back the next day because it ran rough and took a million hard pulls to start each time. I think either the carb was leaking gas into the cylinder from lodged dirt in the float/needle or the compression release valve was stuck. Once I got it running, it cut the grass beautifully. But the engine had troubles. I took the reconditioned one back went to buy a new one, but the lawn and garden manger came up to me and said not to buy it. He said nearly all the Toro Timemasters he's sold this year have been returned for engine trouble. He said to buy one of the many riders they have online for about the same price. I'm torn because the the Toro Timemaster is perfect for my yard, but online reviews and the Homedepot Lawn & Gareden manager paint a picture of unreliability, and $1000.00 is a bit much to pay for a problem machine. I called an Atlanta are independent Toro dealer and they said they don't sell them anymore, just service them because it's not a quality brand anymore and parts are hard to come by.
So what would you do if you were in my shoes? Or in my yard?
Much thanks in advance for whatever advice you can give.
So a few days ago, I purchased a "reconditioned" 2014 Toro Timemaster 30" at Home Depot for $400 off the retail price, thinking I got the deal of the century. I took it back the next day because it ran rough and took a million hard pulls to start each time. I think either the carb was leaking gas into the cylinder from lodged dirt in the float/needle or the compression release valve was stuck. Once I got it running, it cut the grass beautifully. But the engine had troubles. I took the reconditioned one back went to buy a new one, but the lawn and garden manger came up to me and said not to buy it. He said nearly all the Toro Timemasters he's sold this year have been returned for engine trouble. He said to buy one of the many riders they have online for about the same price. I'm torn because the the Toro Timemaster is perfect for my yard, but online reviews and the Homedepot Lawn & Gareden manager paint a picture of unreliability, and $1000.00 is a bit much to pay for a problem machine. I called an Atlanta are independent Toro dealer and they said they don't sell them anymore, just service them because it's not a quality brand anymore and parts are hard to come by.
So what would you do if you were in my shoes? Or in my yard?
Much thanks in advance for whatever advice you can give.
Craftsman 30" rear engine advice
I'm new to this forum and need some advice. In a nutshell, I have a .46 acre yard, mostly flat with a few trees and shrubs to get around, and it tales me an hour and fifteen minutes to mow the yard with a 21" mower. I also work a 60 hour week and am raising a family, so frequently get behind in my yard work because I have little time to spare. I was thinking of replacing my aging mower with a wider format model to save some time, but have found precious few choices in the category between 21 and 42 inches for the homeowner (non-commercial). I want to buy new, because I'm of the opinion than very few people properly service/maintain their lawn equipment and when you buy used you are buying other people's problems. Also I only have $1200 max to spend. So all there is in this market segment is a Toro Timemaster 30," walk-behind, or a rear engine rider (Troy-built/Craftsman/Cub Cadet CC/ 30"), which all appear to be the same machine at different price points, all made by MTD, which also have mixed reviews, just like the Toro Timemaster. I don't really want a 42" as it seems a little big for my yard and it would take up more room in my crowded garage.
So a few days ago, I purchased a "reconditioned" 2014 Toro Timemaster 30" at Home Depot for $400 off the retail price, thinking I got the deal of the century. I took it back the next day because it ran rough and took a million hard pulls to start each time. I think either the carb was leaking gas into the cylinder from lodged dirt in the float/needle or the compression release valve was stuck. Once I got it running, it cut the grass beautifully. But the engine had troubles. I took the reconditioned one back went to buy a new one, but the lawn and garden manger came up to me and said not to buy it. He said nearly all the Toro Timemasters he's sold this year have been returned for engine trouble. He said to buy one of the many riders they have online for about the same price. I'm torn because the the Toro Timemaster is perfect for my yard, but online reviews and the Homedepot Lawn & Gareden manager paint a picture of unreliability, and $1000.00 is a bit much to pay for a problem machine. I called an Atlanta are independent Toro dealer and they said they don't sell them anymore, just service them because it's not a quality brand anymore and parts are hard to come by.
So what would you do if you were in my shoes? Or in my yard?
Much thanks in advance for whatever advice you can give.
So a few days ago, I purchased a "reconditioned" 2014 Toro Timemaster 30" at Home Depot for $400 off the retail price, thinking I got the deal of the century. I took it back the next day because it ran rough and took a million hard pulls to start each time. I think either the carb was leaking gas into the cylinder from lodged dirt in the float/needle or the compression release valve was stuck. Once I got it running, it cut the grass beautifully. But the engine had troubles. I took the reconditioned one back went to buy a new one, but the lawn and garden manger came up to me and said not to buy it. He said nearly all the Toro Timemasters he's sold this year have been returned for engine trouble. He said to buy one of the many riders they have online for about the same price. I'm torn because the the Toro Timemaster is perfect for my yard, but online reviews and the Homedepot Lawn & Gareden manager paint a picture of unreliability, and $1000.00 is a bit much to pay for a problem machine. I called an Atlanta are independent Toro dealer and they said they don't sell them anymore, just service them because it's not a quality brand anymore and parts are hard to come by.
So what would you do if you were in my shoes? Or in my yard?
Much thanks in advance for whatever advice you can give.
Opinion on Toro Timemaster 30"
I'm new to this forum and need some advice. In a nutshell, I have a .46 acre yard, mostly flat with a few trees and shrubs to get around, and it tales me an hour and fifteen minutes to mow the yard with a 21" mower. I also work a 60 hour week and am raising a family, so frequently get behind in my yard work because I have little time to spare. I was thinking of replacing my aging mower with a wider format model to save some time, but have found precious few choices in the category between 21 and 42 inches for the homeowner (non-commercial). I want to buy new, because I'm of the opinion than very few people properly service/maintain their lawn equipment and when you buy used you are buying other people's problems. Also I only have $1200 max to spend. So all there is in this market segment is a Toro Timemaster 30," walk-behind, or a rear engine rider (Troy-built/Craftsman/Cub Cadet CC/ 30"), which all appear to be the same machine at different price points, all made by MTD, which also have mixed reviews, just like the Toro Timemaster. I don't really want a 42" as it seems a little big for my yard and it would take up more room in my crowded garage.
So a few days ago, I purchased a "reconditioned" 2014 Toro Timemaster 30" at Home Depot for $400 off the retail price, thinking I got the deal of the century. I took it back the next day because it ran rough and took a million hard pulls to start each time. I think either the carb was leaking gas into the cylinder from lodged dirt in the float/needle or the compression release valve was stuck. Once I got it running, it cut the grass beautifully. But the engine had troubles. I took the reconditioned one back went to buy a new one, but the lawn and garden manger came up to me and said not to buy it. He said nearly all the Toro Timemasters he's sold this year have been returned for engine trouble. He said to buy one of the many riders they have online for about the same price. I'm torn because the the Toro Timemaster is perfect for my yard, but online reviews and the Homedepot Lawn & Gareden manager paint a picture of unreliability, and $1000.00 is a bit much to pay for a problem machine. I called an Atlanta are independent Toro dealer and they said they don't sell them anymore, just service them because it's not a quality brand anymore and parts are hard to come by.
So what would you do if you were in my shoes? Or in my yard?
Much thanks in advance for whatever advice you can give.
So a few days ago, I purchased a "reconditioned" 2014 Toro Timemaster 30" at Home Depot for $400 off the retail price, thinking I got the deal of the century. I took it back the next day because it ran rough and took a million hard pulls to start each time. I think either the carb was leaking gas into the cylinder from lodged dirt in the float/needle or the compression release valve was stuck. Once I got it running, it cut the grass beautifully. But the engine had troubles. I took the reconditioned one back went to buy a new one, but the lawn and garden manger came up to me and said not to buy it. He said nearly all the Toro Timemasters he's sold this year have been returned for engine trouble. He said to buy one of the many riders they have online for about the same price. I'm torn because the the Toro Timemaster is perfect for my yard, but online reviews and the Homedepot Lawn & Gareden manager paint a picture of unreliability, and $1000.00 is a bit much to pay for a problem machine. I called an Atlanta are independent Toro dealer and they said they don't sell them anymore, just service them because it's not a quality brand anymore and parts are hard to come by.
So what would you do if you were in my shoes? Or in my yard?
Much thanks in advance for whatever advice you can give.
Vibration in belts....
Got another question about my new Tiger Cat 61". I cut for about three hours today and it cut beautifully! But how much shaking/vibration is normal in the belts/pulleys? I test drove a 52" TC a couple of days ago, and in my memory it seemed very smooth when I engaged the blades. I didn't look under the plate at the belts, but the blades seemed to start very smoothly with no noticeable shaking, and I don't remember the engine RPMs changing much (but my memory could be faulty).
But THAT isn't the machine I bought. I visited another dealer who offered me a fantastic deal on a 61" that he had in stock. It only had 1/10th of an hour on it from a couple of parking lot test drives, and had never cut grass. It looked virtually perfect (except for some rust on the spindle pulleys that I mentioned in another thread). But on this machine, when I engage the blades, the machine shakes quite a bit and the engine VERY noticeably decreases RPMs (and if I try to engage the blades at low idle the motor will often go dead). And when the blades are running, the idler pulleys and the belts vibrate a lot (although the spindles themselves are spinning perfectly with no visible vibration). I pointed it out to the salesman and he assured me that this is normal. And before I came back with my trailer to pick up the machine, they took it into the shop and had their mechanic look it over and he said it was fine as well. So hopefully I'm just being overly picky. :rolleyes: But if something actually IS wrong, I'd like to get it fixed now before it gets worse or causes other problems.
I've put a couple of videos on Youtube showing what I'm talking about. Does this amount of shake/vibration seem normal?
In this first video, I engage the PTO at about half throttle.
David
But THAT isn't the machine I bought. I visited another dealer who offered me a fantastic deal on a 61" that he had in stock. It only had 1/10th of an hour on it from a couple of parking lot test drives, and had never cut grass. It looked virtually perfect (except for some rust on the spindle pulleys that I mentioned in another thread). But on this machine, when I engage the blades, the machine shakes quite a bit and the engine VERY noticeably decreases RPMs (and if I try to engage the blades at low idle the motor will often go dead). And when the blades are running, the idler pulleys and the belts vibrate a lot (although the spindles themselves are spinning perfectly with no visible vibration). I pointed it out to the salesman and he assured me that this is normal. And before I came back with my trailer to pick up the machine, they took it into the shop and had their mechanic look it over and he said it was fine as well. So hopefully I'm just being overly picky. :rolleyes: But if something actually IS wrong, I'd like to get it fixed now before it gets worse or causes other problems.
I've put a couple of videos on Youtube showing what I'm talking about. Does this amount of shake/vibration seem normal?
In this first video, I engage the PTO at about half throttle.
David
Rust pulleys/bolts on brand new machine?
Hey folks, I'm the proud new owner of a brand new Tiger Cat 61" that I just picked up from the dealer's showroom yesterday. It looks pretty much perfect, as you would expect of a brand new machine, EXCEPT for some unexpected rust on the bolts on top of the spindle pulleys. I can't find any other rust or other problems at all. Is rust in that spot normal on these machines, and should I be concerned?
Here's what I'm talking about:
015.jpg
David
Here's what I'm talking about:
015.jpg
David
No power to cub cadet M 60
No power, mowed last week and everything fine, put it in the barn when finished. I went to mow tonight, nothing no click, mower deck wouldn't engage, jumped from battery to solenoid and it started as soon as I removed jump cable it died. Help me before I push this SOB over the cliff on fire. I suspect the ignition switch but it ran fine when I turned the ignition off last week.
Hustler Raptor Seat Spring Squeak
Among all the other strange noises my brand new Raptor makes, they seat spring squeak was getting on my nerves. Here's how I fixed it, I went digging in my shop for something to cushion the springs, found that one portion of a extra set of '68 Camaro front core support mounts fit almost perfect on top of the springs. I used weatherstrip adhesive to glue them to the top of the springs. It only added about a 1/4 inch to the rear height of the seat. Quieted them nicely. Now I'm gonna start on the other strange noises it makes. It's a dam shame that a new mower, that cuts so good, has to have so many strange noises coming out of it.
source for 2 stroke lawn boy parts.
i may have a lead on some used 2 cycle lawn boy mower parts. if any of you are having problems finding an item, let me know and i will check my resources.
shifting problem
i have a lawn-boy lt12 model 52138a and serial 912544 79. the shift lever sticks in a gear and will not move. I have replaced the clutch/brake pucks but no help. is there a special adjustment on the brake control. grease in transmission is old but not hard.
Just bought HRR216VYA
I just bought the HRR216VYA last night from my local John Deere. I am loving the thing but I have a few questions.
1) The smart drive system is very comfortable compared to my old mower's speed throttle selection. It seems to be very touchy though. I have found that using it with one hand instead of two helps that but it's very touchy still. This mower is much faster than my old one too so I have to get used to a slow jog when mowing.
2) This mower has the blade brake so when I start the mower it doesn't start the blades. I am loving this feature! When I go to start the blades, it sounds like the mower is going to stop running. Is that normal?
3) My old mower had the nicest feature ever, one motion to adjust deck height. I could not find another mower that had that, especially a honda. Is this not something that people want and I'm the only one. I loved it because I could change the deck height on the fly while mowing through deep patches of grass.
Overall, I love this mower after one mowing.
1) The smart drive system is very comfortable compared to my old mower's speed throttle selection. It seems to be very touchy though. I have found that using it with one hand instead of two helps that but it's very touchy still. This mower is much faster than my old one too so I have to get used to a slow jog when mowing.
2) This mower has the blade brake so when I start the mower it doesn't start the blades. I am loving this feature! When I go to start the blades, it sounds like the mower is going to stop running. Is that normal?
3) My old mower had the nicest feature ever, one motion to adjust deck height. I could not find another mower that had that, especially a honda. Is this not something that people want and I'm the only one. I loved it because I could change the deck height on the fly while mowing through deep patches of grass.
Overall, I love this mower after one mowing.
Model 10415 Carb questions
Hi All,
After acquiring a couple junk lawnboys I have just got one running with a rebuilt short block from ebay. F series engine all new seals, bearings, and rings. Walbro LMR-10 Metal carb. When I first started it the air vane had no tension and it idled real low and sounded cool but it wouldn't rev up so I adjusted the air vane thumb wheel increased the tension and now it is revving up and running but the idle while lower than run speed is still higher than the minimum if I push the airvane back while it is running to the minimum throttle opening it will idle down and hold the idle.. Seems like I can have low idle and no high end or good throttle with high idle but not both low idle with high revs. Is this normal or should it wind up and idle down. I have no tach just by ear but I am not over revving cause I can still push the air vane open while running and make it increase RPM. The mixture screw on the side of the carb ? What does it do ? I have it open at 3/4 out. I guess I need a quick rundown on the proper tuning of the metal walbro carb if anyone wants to assist me. I am looking into getting a tach. Appreciate any insight. It runs and cut fine I just want to make sure that I have it revving and idling right too.
Thanks,
22R
After acquiring a couple junk lawnboys I have just got one running with a rebuilt short block from ebay. F series engine all new seals, bearings, and rings. Walbro LMR-10 Metal carb. When I first started it the air vane had no tension and it idled real low and sounded cool but it wouldn't rev up so I adjusted the air vane thumb wheel increased the tension and now it is revving up and running but the idle while lower than run speed is still higher than the minimum if I push the airvane back while it is running to the minimum throttle opening it will idle down and hold the idle.. Seems like I can have low idle and no high end or good throttle with high idle but not both low idle with high revs. Is this normal or should it wind up and idle down. I have no tach just by ear but I am not over revving cause I can still push the air vane open while running and make it increase RPM. The mixture screw on the side of the carb ? What does it do ? I have it open at 3/4 out. I guess I need a quick rundown on the proper tuning of the metal walbro carb if anyone wants to assist me. I am looking into getting a tach. Appreciate any insight. It runs and cut fine I just want to make sure that I have it revving and idling right too.
Thanks,
22R
M-ZT 52 Deck depth and other questions.
What is the deck depth on these models? From what I've learned DEEPER is better and what is the word on high lift blades on Husky's?
I think I've seen some posts complaining about the lack of them or the lack of alternatives.
The other question, I've heard and read issues with starting due to no manual choke.
Thanks,
I think I've seen some posts complaining about the lack of them or the lack of alternatives.
The other question, I've heard and read issues with starting due to no manual choke.
Thanks,
Trouble keeping engine running
Hello;
I had purchased a Simplicity wood chipper an 8 hoarse with 3" capacity chipping some time back, but ended up not using it for a while. When I tried to get it going, it was difficult, but I put a fresh tank of premium fuel, with some sea foam, & with some starter fluid I got it running. The problem is that even after I get
it running, (which can be pretty difficult), it has a hard time staying on. I have to play with the choke, & accellerator, not too much or little acceleration, trying to build the speed up, then the choke all over the place; high low, whatever it needs to keep running. I'd just like to get it running for this job I'm doing then maybe deal with a tune up
next spring. Anyway any thoughts on what I can do? Its a fairly bulky unit for running it around in the trunk of my car, so I was hoping there might be some things I could
do even temporarily.
Thanks, in advance;
Rob_D
I had purchased a Simplicity wood chipper an 8 hoarse with 3" capacity chipping some time back, but ended up not using it for a while. When I tried to get it going, it was difficult, but I put a fresh tank of premium fuel, with some sea foam, & with some starter fluid I got it running. The problem is that even after I get
it running, (which can be pretty difficult), it has a hard time staying on. I have to play with the choke, & accellerator, not too much or little acceleration, trying to build the speed up, then the choke all over the place; high low, whatever it needs to keep running. I'd just like to get it running for this job I'm doing then maybe deal with a tune up
next spring. Anyway any thoughts on what I can do? Its a fairly bulky unit for running it around in the trunk of my car, so I was hoping there might be some things I could
do even temporarily.
Thanks, in advance;
Rob_D
2005 cub cadet slt 1554 belt will not stay on.
The spindles are in great shape and greased. The blades are ome and new. The deck belt is new and ome also. The idler pulley is 4 months old but I suspect the problem is this pulley. The idler spindle does not seem bent and everything looks in alignment but when I turn the pto on the belt is all jumpy and comes off. The belts come off at every selection level. I had just cleaned the debris off the deck on top and on the underside. I just greased all the spindles and check alignment plus spray painted the deck to stop any rust and for looks. I have tried everything I know to do. I have made sure the deck was level also. I think the idler pulley is bad again and I am going to replace it and the tension spring that puts tension on that pulley.
Please let me know what you think may be wrong. I can't get the parts till October first as I am state employee and get paid first of month. Thanks
Please let me know what you think may be wrong. I can't get the parts till October first as I am state employee and get paid first of month. Thanks
mardi 23 septembre 2014
WTB LAWN EQUIPMENT (fort Worth,TX)
I have a very small budget to begin with. i will take working or not. Any year any model but, gas powered only. You will need to bring it to me still learning to drive and no job right now. If running i will pay $40 for a power head and $10 extra for any attachments if dead (not running i will pay 20 and 5 for any attachments that go with it. Lawnmowers i will pay $30 running and 15 for dead mowers and i will only take walk-behind mowers.
Repairs New Grasshopper owner 721D
Hello fellow Grasshopper owners.
I am a new Grasshopper owner and I am very happy with it. I had my first experience using a 235. Very nice mid deck mower. Couldn't believe how it outperformed other mowers decades newer. This prompted my search after I purchased 7.5 acres. I found a used 721D locally and decided to buy it. Anyway I fired it up the 1998 today after checking the fluid levels, and proceeded to mow for 3 hours. I wanted to use it as is to get a sense of what it was capable of in its current state. It ran well, didn't get above 5/8th on the temp gauge, and seemed to do a good job even on the overgrown stuff.
Well now that the first impressions are made. I have a list of things I want to fix adjust and otherwise tweak. I look forward to the journey and the years of service I hope to get out of my efforts. With that said, are there any pitfalls a new owner should be watching out for?
Thanks
Christian
I am a new Grasshopper owner and I am very happy with it. I had my first experience using a 235. Very nice mid deck mower. Couldn't believe how it outperformed other mowers decades newer. This prompted my search after I purchased 7.5 acres. I found a used 721D locally and decided to buy it. Anyway I fired it up the 1998 today after checking the fluid levels, and proceeded to mow for 3 hours. I wanted to use it as is to get a sense of what it was capable of in its current state. It ran well, didn't get above 5/8th on the temp gauge, and seemed to do a good job even on the overgrown stuff.
Well now that the first impressions are made. I have a list of things I want to fix adjust and otherwise tweak. I look forward to the journey and the years of service I hope to get out of my efforts. With that said, are there any pitfalls a new owner should be watching out for?
Thanks
Christian
Which is better, John Deere LX172 or LX176?
Hello,
I cant decide whether to get a John Deere LX172 or LX176. They are both very similar but have differences.
I just cant think of which is better.
I cant decide whether to get a John Deere LX172 or LX176. They are both very similar but have differences.
I just cant think of which is better.
how many hours per gallon?
My '86 rer seems to drink the tank dry. I suspect some carb problems but it runs a little rough on high speed and purrs like a kitten in idle
This is my first rider and with a 12 hp B/S engine and hauling my 250# butt around i do not expect the hours per gallon to be the same as my S/P walk behind
My lawn is only 5000 sqft and not hilly I do a lot of short cuts , no runs over 50', and have to go over the same places due to the turning radius. There are lots of curves around flower beds and trees,
For close work I am in speed 1 and speed 2 on the straight runs.
my mower is a 3012x6s
This is my first rider and with a 12 hp B/S engine and hauling my 250# butt around i do not expect the hours per gallon to be the same as my S/P walk behind
My lawn is only 5000 sqft and not hilly I do a lot of short cuts , no runs over 50', and have to go over the same places due to the turning radius. There are lots of curves around flower beds and trees,
For close work I am in speed 1 and speed 2 on the straight runs.
my mower is a 3012x6s
New Member, Just changed from Compact tractor to Garden Tractor
I have reduced the size of my tractor, from a John Deere 420 to a Craftsman Garden Tractor. New learning curve.
Repairs LT2045 Brake Pedal Interlock Problem - stalls when releasing brake pedal.
Hello - newbie here, but not to auto and other mechanical/DIY forums. I recently picked up a lightly used, well kept, Snapper LT2045 Hydro. The numbers are - Mod: LT200H48IBV2, B&S model: 84897, s/n 50199623. It's got a 48 deck, B&S 20HP ELS Twin OHV. From the codes I see, my guess is that it is a 2004 vintage tractor. Everything worked fine during testing before purchase, and again when I got it home. I did some pm and made some simple repairs in the last few days, and now I have a brake pedal interlock problem, and a reverse lockout override problem
I made some seat mounting/base repairs, replaced the air filters, sharpened the blades, lubed it up per the owner's manual, and did some basic cleanup. When I fired it up to test everything out, I ran into my first problem. The tractor fires right up normally, when the brake pedal is pushed down, or locked down. As soon as the pedal is released, some interlock is shutting the engine down. If I push the brake pedal back down, it will not stall. I checked all the wiring, including anything I touched, and all is intact and unmolested. Not finding anything on my first pass, I removed the deck, and dug deeper. The pedal is depressing the brake pedal switch correctly, and allowing the tractor to start. As soon as the brake pedal switch is released, it stalls. I don't see any other interlock switches in there related to the brake pedal. Is there some kind of sensor somewhere that is causing the engine kill when the brake pedal is released? Is there a way to test the components that may be causing the problem? Is there a quick way to temporarily circumvent the kill, such that I can move it around and/or use it? Any help on this problem will be appreciated.
Also, this tractor has a reverse lockout & override. When moving forward, with the blades turning, the reverse lockout is supposed to prevent shifting to reverse. The override is supposed to allow temporary forward and reverse operation, while the blades are turning. It looks like there is a spring loaded solenoid, near the shift lever, that prevents reverse operation. The solenoid does not appear to be working, as the engaging lockout lever does nothing. Can someone advise on how this reverse lockout & override is supposed to work, and is there a way to test it? The tractor had this problem when I tested it before purchase, so I don't believe it is related to any of the maint that I performed.
Thanks in advance for any and all help!
Ken
I made some seat mounting/base repairs, replaced the air filters, sharpened the blades, lubed it up per the owner's manual, and did some basic cleanup. When I fired it up to test everything out, I ran into my first problem. The tractor fires right up normally, when the brake pedal is pushed down, or locked down. As soon as the pedal is released, some interlock is shutting the engine down. If I push the brake pedal back down, it will not stall. I checked all the wiring, including anything I touched, and all is intact and unmolested. Not finding anything on my first pass, I removed the deck, and dug deeper. The pedal is depressing the brake pedal switch correctly, and allowing the tractor to start. As soon as the brake pedal switch is released, it stalls. I don't see any other interlock switches in there related to the brake pedal. Is there some kind of sensor somewhere that is causing the engine kill when the brake pedal is released? Is there a way to test the components that may be causing the problem? Is there a quick way to temporarily circumvent the kill, such that I can move it around and/or use it? Any help on this problem will be appreciated.
Also, this tractor has a reverse lockout & override. When moving forward, with the blades turning, the reverse lockout is supposed to prevent shifting to reverse. The override is supposed to allow temporary forward and reverse operation, while the blades are turning. It looks like there is a spring loaded solenoid, near the shift lever, that prevents reverse operation. The solenoid does not appear to be working, as the engaging lockout lever does nothing. Can someone advise on how this reverse lockout & override is supposed to work, and is there a way to test it? The tractor had this problem when I tested it before purchase, so I don't believe it is related to any of the maint that I performed.
Thanks in advance for any and all help!
Ken
My yard barn
Somewhat mower related. I rigged up a solar cell and two 12V lights mounted to the ceiling. I mounted a cigarette lighter on both mowers.
When everything is plugged together, this whole setup serves three purpose:
1) Solar cell recharges my batteries over the winter
2) Lights get power from my lawnmower's batteries
3) Lights my cigs while mowing
Everything is wired in parallel. So power can transfer from the solar cell to both light bulbs and both batteries. No switches involved. I just unscrew the light bulb to turn it off.
IMG_20140923_172025940_zps1v6l22rk.jpg
IMG_20140923_172116429_HDR_zpsm5lwkyrc.jpg
IMG_20140923_172131126_HDR_zpsuu0lcnfg.jpg
IMG_20140923_173252533_zpssdj1vn5w.jpg
IMG_20140923_173311851_HDR_zpszg0a95a3.jpg
IMG_20140923_173336505_zpsxm9ccrfb.jpg
When everything is plugged together, this whole setup serves three purpose:
1) Solar cell recharges my batteries over the winter
2) Lights get power from my lawnmower's batteries
3) Lights my cigs while mowing
Everything is wired in parallel. So power can transfer from the solar cell to both light bulbs and both batteries. No switches involved. I just unscrew the light bulb to turn it off.
IMG_20140923_172025940_zps1v6l22rk.jpg
IMG_20140923_172116429_HDR_zpsm5lwkyrc.jpg
IMG_20140923_172131126_HDR_zpsuu0lcnfg.jpg
IMG_20140923_173252533_zpssdj1vn5w.jpg
IMG_20140923_173311851_HDR_zpszg0a95a3.jpg
IMG_20140923_173336505_zpsxm9ccrfb.jpg
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