:smile:new to the forum. i now own a john deere 322. my old jd was the 316 kolher. by the way it is the 1978 only build, closed frame, dana rear end. Great tractor,cut grass and plowed snow for 36 years. Hydtostatic was butter smooth.So for 36 years it was keep it simple stupid,now its becareful what you wish for.My first project on the jd 322 was to change the alternator belt :confused2:http://ift.tt/1DXrCHH this is so funny to me is,I never took typing in high school,never had the internet until June of 2015,and didnt use a credit card until I now onn the John Deere 322 which uses 1 gallon of gas per hour! So that my story and Im sticking to it.
vendredi 31 juillet 2015
Belt changing
Bought the mower and the house 1 year ago. How often should the belt be replaced? Appears to be in good shape now. I have probably put 80-90 hours on it since I've had it. I don't know if it has ever been replaced. Approximately 420 hours total on machine now. Thanks for any feedback.
Head bolt torque Kohler 17.5 hp
I am planning to replace the head gasket on the John Deere L110 mower with the Kohler 17.5 hp engine. Does anyone know the torque on the head bolts when re-installing them?
Thanks,
John
Thanks,
John
123k02 automatic choke diagram?
I bought an old mower with a 6.5hp motor a 123ko2-0479 0501295817179. Anyway is there supposed to be a spring on the choke linkage? if so what size? The other end, under the shroud, is the vane supposed to go behind the bimetal arm or in front? I tried sears parts direct chat and they sent me a link to a diagram of the block, no help there. This mower will start and die. appreciate the help.
Ultrasonic Cleaners
Looking for advise from anyone presently using an Ultrasonic Cleaner to clean carburetor parts etc., their recommendations and cleaning solutions that work.
The last I used one was 40 some years ago while working in a small jewelry manufacture shop during college. All I can recall about it was it cleaned jewelry like magic and the cleaning solution was purple color.
The last I used one was 40 some years ago while working in a small jewelry manufacture shop during college. All I can recall about it was it cleaned jewelry like magic and the cleaning solution was purple color.
jeudi 30 juillet 2015
I'm an idiot - dropped oil bottle foil seal into dipstick tube
Hey everyone. This will be my first post. It's pretty sad.
I bought a new Husqvarna YTH24V48 with the 24hp Briggs and Stratton Intek 440000 model engine. I ran it to 6.0 hours and decided to change the oil as I'm told this is important in the first 5-8 hours. I changed the oil and filter with no real problems. I used one 48oz Briggs oil bottle.
I ran the engine a bit and checked the dipstick. I noticed the oil had dropped below full so I decided to open another bottle of 48oz Briggs oil and punctured the metal/plastic seal. When I went to pour the oil in, a piece of the seal poured right into the dipstick tube. I shined my flashlight inside the tube and it was shiny and vacant of any seal.
Yup, I'm dumb and should have fully removed the seal before pouring the oil in. Now, what are my options?
Thanks,
Brent
I bought a new Husqvarna YTH24V48 with the 24hp Briggs and Stratton Intek 440000 model engine. I ran it to 6.0 hours and decided to change the oil as I'm told this is important in the first 5-8 hours. I changed the oil and filter with no real problems. I used one 48oz Briggs oil bottle.
I ran the engine a bit and checked the dipstick. I noticed the oil had dropped below full so I decided to open another bottle of 48oz Briggs oil and punctured the metal/plastic seal. When I went to pour the oil in, a piece of the seal poured right into the dipstick tube. I shined my flashlight inside the tube and it was shiny and vacant of any seal.
Yup, I'm dumb and should have fully removed the seal before pouring the oil in. Now, what are my options?
Thanks,
Brent
Buying Advice SNAPPER SR949 rear rider worth????
my neighbor has a I think it is a sr949 or sr9-something with elec start, 10 hp motor, solid deck, clean with bagger system, good tires, runs and cuts good. he wants $200.00 opinions??????????
B&S 5hp is driving me nuts
Hi, this is a helmet scratcher....starts good, runs good both at fast and slow idle. After cutting grass for a while the engine starts surging with even just a bit of load, then surging gets worse even at standstill. I have to keep it running by continually pressing the primer bulb. It's like when the engine gets hot it bogs down. But this is at fast idle, at slow idle the engine runs fine. Here is recap of what I have done so far; newer fuel and air filter, newer plug, cleaned fuel bowl, new fuel. I also replaced the drive belt but that shouldn't play into this. What am I missing or what to do next. Appreciate the insight. B&S 5 hp 4 stroke. Thanks
john deer 425
tractor runs fine until I engage the blades. It starts to go then kicks out the upper 15 amp fuse and kills motor
Blades are free of restrictions. was running fine until it kicked out the first time today.
Blades are free of restrictions. was running fine until it kicked out the first time today.
Need Advice on New Mower for Business
I have a few customers and I have currently been push mowing all my lawns with two 21 inch push mowers. It would be no big deal for me if it weren't for the commercial properties I have just added this year. The Lawn size on these properties is about 15,000 sq. ft. and it's is all split up around the parking lot. So it's not one big 15k sq ft patch of grass. I am looking at upgrading to a commercial mower just for the reliability. And the fact that I won't have to walk on two 15k sq. ft. properties any more. The gross lot sizes for my the rest of my residential customers is between 6,800-11,500 sq. ft. there is one anomaly though it is 14,500 sq. ft. but it doesn't take any longer because so much of the property is landscaped so even though that one seems bigger it really isn't :confused2:. The commercial property size I have given you of 15k sq ft is just the lawn size. But for the residential customers I have not measured their lawn size so I just got the gross lot size off of the internet I have not subtracted anything at all (house, driveway, sidewalks etc.) So my question is...what deck size would you recommend for these yard sizes? I'm am currently looking at a few stand-on mowers and walk behinds. I know a company in my town that uses 52-inch ZTRs for yards of this size but it seems like overkill to me. Also some of the lawn's backyards are fenced in but I'm ok with just taking a push mower back there if a bigger mower wouldn't fit. I'm just looking for any suggestions. I was leaning towards 36 or 48 but then I thought about a 52 because it really isn't that much bigger than a 48. But I like the thought of how easy it would be for a 36 to get around stuff in the lawn and in tight spaces. But a 48 would get the more open lawns done much faster.
Thanks,
Connor
Thanks,
Connor
Walker mower
Mower not cutting properly. Checked shear pin, checked blade positioning. Everything seems to check out ok. Any thoughts on potential solutions appreciated.
John Deere L120 over heating?
Hi. I have a John Deere L120. It starts up fine, runs fine but when I actually mow it ends up dying. My back yard is 1 acre, I got half a lap and it died. I put a mew air filter on it, new fuel pump, check to make sure holes in gas cap weren't clogged and let a little oil out. It didn't have too much oil but I watched a youtube video and guy said if there is too much oil it can get into the carb and cause the mower to not run. I was really trying for a quick fix. All that and I actually got to mow 2 laps before it died again. It seems really hot for only mowing a lap or two. If I let it cool off for a while it starts back up. I have it on the highest setting and it doesn't bog down or anything like the grass is too tall. It just seems to be overheating??? Any thoughts? I also just scraped all the grass out from under the deck 2 weeks ago and checked that , but it's still clean under there. Also put a voltage meter on last fall and new spindles a month ago??? Please help......:mad:
Repairs Gravely 2348 XL Electric PTO Clutch removal
Hello - I am new to the site. I have a 10 year old Gravely 2348 XL mower and the PTO Clutch went out. I removed the bolt holding the lower pulley on and cannot get the pulley off to remove the clutch. Do I need a gear puller? It looks like the bottom of the crankshaft is flanged. I am at a loss here and could use some help. The wife's French bulldog is going to lost in the tall grass!
Thanks
Thanks
Mower deck JD 455 is leaving streaks
I have a 1996 455, very low time tractor that leaves streaks in my lawn. I have adjusted the deck both ways, tire pressure is as right on and blades are sharp. Has anyone else had this problem. Any advise would be greatly appreciated. Gary
Great Dane chariot lx
I have a Great Dane lx. when you let go of controls it does not return to neutral position automatically. what could be the problem? thanks alot
Scag seat safety switch ?
So even my dealer questioned this, and I really didn't pay it any mind being that it really didn't matter to me, but how exactly is the scag safety setup supposed to operate.
Should I be able to get up with the arms in the neutral open position and the parking brake on with the engine running still, or will it always shut off? I know it shuts off when I get up due to the seat sensor, but some mowers allow you to "park" and disengage the PTO for you, letting you get off to remove obstacles, then hop back on and release the brake, then reset the PTO.
I am pretty sure engaging the park brake even while sitting on the mower and setting the park lock shuts the engine off as well.
Just a curiosity I had. It may be set up right. And it really doesn't matter to me, but it just seems like I will put more wear on the starter this way, if I can't hop off and pick things up from time to time with park locked and arms open.
Hope that sounds right.
Thanks!
Should I be able to get up with the arms in the neutral open position and the parking brake on with the engine running still, or will it always shut off? I know it shuts off when I get up due to the seat sensor, but some mowers allow you to "park" and disengage the PTO for you, letting you get off to remove obstacles, then hop back on and release the brake, then reset the PTO.
I am pretty sure engaging the park brake even while sitting on the mower and setting the park lock shuts the engine off as well.
Just a curiosity I had. It may be set up right. And it really doesn't matter to me, but it just seems like I will put more wear on the starter this way, if I can't hop off and pick things up from time to time with park locked and arms open.
Hope that sounds right.
Thanks!
Introduction
I'm Tony G, and I live in the Florida panhandle. I have many years of experience with auto and motorcycle engines but almost no experience with small engines. I'm working on a relatively new (but has been sitting idle for a couple of years) Troy-Bilt Bronco riding mower with a 20HP Kohler engine. I'm hoping I can find the answers I need to get it running right on this forum.
anyone play w/ raptor deck level by counting adjuster turns?
So...on my SD the adjuster bolt looks like regular thread 3/8 shank. A chart says that's 16 threads per inch. People are reporting gains in cut quality by running the back 1/4" low.
So...I have my deck perfectly level now. To keep my current cut heights per letter setting I'm thinking I should raise the front of my deck 4 full turns per side. It should return by doing the opposite if I don't like the results. Seems like its an easy way to play w/o much monkeying around?
Anyone adjust by counting turns....am I right on the turn numbers?
So...I have my deck perfectly level now. To keep my current cut heights per letter setting I'm thinking I should raise the front of my deck 4 full turns per side. It should return by doing the opposite if I don't like the results. Seems like its an easy way to play w/o much monkeying around?
Anyone adjust by counting turns....am I right on the turn numbers?
6.5 dura-force connecting rod bearing?
Ok I had to replace a short block on a duraforce due to a rusty connecting rod bearing from being stored outside, anyway on another site someone is claiming that some dura-force's use a bushing instead of needle bearings. The one I had apart did have a needle bearing no doubt about that. Seems that a needle bearing is a much better idea then a bushing. I cannot believe that some dura-force would have needle bearings and some would not. Can anyone confirm this?
caps on the end of valve stems of 18.5 Briggs & Strattons
just wondering on the video of putting one back together it shows that there were
caps on the end of the valve stems and warning not to lose them
......but I don't recall mine ever having any ?
now I was wondering if they made a change , cause I noticed that various tabs that
held wires in place on the video were metal and mine are all plastic ?
So mine never had caps ?
Thanks for any clarification
Normf
caps on the end of the valve stems and warning not to lose them
......but I don't recall mine ever having any ?
now I was wondering if they made a change , cause I noticed that various tabs that
held wires in place on the video were metal and mine are all plastic ?
So mine never had caps ?
Thanks for any clarification
Normf
mercredi 29 juillet 2015
Kawasaki fr651
This is what I have found on the valves
Do I set them at TDC?
Can I do them like I do a Briggs one valve open and one closed?
First Kawasaki I have had. Started getting a puff of smoke just on start up. And not every time.
image-2685712005.jpg
Do I set them at TDC?
Can I do them like I do a Briggs one valve open and one closed?
First Kawasaki I have had. Started getting a puff of smoke just on start up. And not every time.
image-2685712005.jpg
Sulky
I am looking to get a sulky for my exmark Viking and not sure to go with the exmark or try a different brand. I demoed the exmark sulky today and loved it but don't really like the wheel mark in the middle of all my stripes. Are there any sulkies that you guys would recommend that are the same as the exmark with comfort and not being too bumpy but with 2 wheels that won't leave as much of a distinct line b/w stripes?
Cub Cadet 1450 Service Manual needed
Hey folks
I'm new to this forum and I'm having trouble getting my 1975 or so 1450 running.
I just rebuilt the Kohler 14HP motor. Oversized piston, ground the crank... and so on.
I put the motor back in and wired it up. It had a very hard time cranking over at first and then cranked fine but wouldn't fire. I was careful not to overheat the starter. Then it stopped turning over when I turned the key. I can't hear any action in the starter solenoid either. I found a wiring diagram here in this forum but now I need to get the steering wheel off in order to pull the console and access the bulk of the wiring.
Problem statement- I don't know how to pull the steering wheel / steering shaft. :ashamed: I could really use a shop manual. If someone can direct me to one it would really help
I'm new to this forum and I'm having trouble getting my 1975 or so 1450 running.
I just rebuilt the Kohler 14HP motor. Oversized piston, ground the crank... and so on.
I put the motor back in and wired it up. It had a very hard time cranking over at first and then cranked fine but wouldn't fire. I was careful not to overheat the starter. Then it stopped turning over when I turned the key. I can't hear any action in the starter solenoid either. I found a wiring diagram here in this forum but now I need to get the steering wheel off in order to pull the console and access the bulk of the wiring.
Problem statement- I don't know how to pull the steering wheel / steering shaft. :ashamed: I could really use a shop manual. If someone can direct me to one it would really help
Sulky
I am looking to get a sulky for my exmark Viking and not sure to go with the exmark or try a different brand. I demoed the exmark sulky today and loved it but don't really like the wheel mark in the middle of all my stripes. Are there any sulkies that you guys would recommend that are the same as the exmark with comfort and not being too bumpy but with 2 wheels that won't leave as much of a distinct line b/w stripes?
Mower deck Paint Aluminum Deck
What is the best way to prepare the aluminum deck on the left side to be able to touch up the paint. It's a little nicked up from bumping into landscape bricks. Model 10515
Replaced my Speed Feed Head
Today I decided to replace the Speed Feed head on my SRM-225 trimmer. It was the original Speed Feed head that came on the trimmer when I bought it in spring of 2012, so it has seen a lot of use. And it shows! The photo is showing the same side of the two trimmer heads....as you can see the old one has worn through almost completely!! It has served me well for the past 3.5 years.
trimmer heads.PNG
trimmer heads.PNG
Engine Replacement Ignition Coil for a Lawnboy 10515
Is the correct Ignition Coil replacement part# 683215
Hello, folks.
Hi, all. I'm Chuck from E. Tennessee. I came here to try to get help to troubleshoot and repair my 2 year old Troy-Bilt weed eater. Seems not much info available on the web.
I am retired, and not in the best of health. I have an acre lot that needs constant upkeep. Seems whenever I want to use a piece of gas powered equipment, it needs some tinkering to get going.
I'm certain there are others like me out there, that are tired of spending their meager funds on new equipment every couple years.
I also have a 15 year old lawn tractor that I have managed to keep running over the years, though it has a Tecumseh engine and there is less and less support for it every year.
Looking forward to learning from you all.
Chuck
I am retired, and not in the best of health. I have an acre lot that needs constant upkeep. Seems whenever I want to use a piece of gas powered equipment, it needs some tinkering to get going.
I'm certain there are others like me out there, that are tired of spending their meager funds on new equipment every couple years.
I also have a 15 year old lawn tractor that I have managed to keep running over the years, though it has a Tecumseh engine and there is less and less support for it every year.
Looking forward to learning from you all.
Chuck
Windows 10
Well how many are going to download there new Windows 10 Today. I'm waiting to be notified and mines going to happen ASAP.
mardi 28 juillet 2015
ECHO SRM 225
Thinking about buying an Echo SRM 225 weed wacker. Good or bad ?
Just for use at my place.
Appreciate any input.
Just for use at my place.
Appreciate any input.
Should my lawn get professionally aerated ? Good ? Bad ?
My lawns have areas which are compacted soil, and some normal areas. One can detect the difference when using a humidity sensor probe or a hand/foot aerator. A professional aerator would charge only $75 to do the 1,400 sq. ft. in the front.
However, when it was done six years ago it didn't seem to help, and two years ago it seemed to cause areas of fungal infections. Difficult to believe it's anything except minimal and temporary help.
Does aeration really help ? Toying with the idea of having a professional do it again.
If done, how many holes per square foot and how deep ?
However, when it was done six years ago it didn't seem to help, and two years ago it seemed to cause areas of fungal infections. Difficult to believe it's anything except minimal and temporary help.
Does aeration really help ? Toying with the idea of having a professional do it again.
If done, how many holes per square foot and how deep ?
Husqvarna or Toro
Looking for some quick advice. I am purchasing a zero turn mower this week. The two mowers I am deciding between are a Toro Z Master 3000 with a Kawasaki and a 52 turbo force deck and the other is a Husqvarna PZT 54 with a Kawasaki and a 54'inch deck. The mowers are priced respectively at $6980 for the Toro and $6050 for the husky. Toro dealer going to throw in the suspension seat which retails for $600. Is the Toro worth the extra cash? It appears from the research that they are very compatible. Thanks for any thoughts.
Rocker arm of old Briggs & Stratton OHV
My old B&S OHV 303777-0122 (date code 90021511) has a broken rocker arm (part 1029 from part manual) which has 5/8" holes on the sides (see the attached photo) to let a shaft (690693) to go through it. But the new (supposedly) replacement part 807323 doesn't have holes. How would I find the old rocker arm, or try to retrofit the new 80732 into the engine? I have also got new parts pivot (791959) and stud (809157) but can't figure out how to fit them to the old engine.
New Iowa member
I am very happy so far with my Hustler Raptor SD 54" (model 932558) purchased 07/07/2015. Hope it was a lucky day. My yard slopes 4-5 degrees with a single mower width strip at the bottom of almost 15 degrees, bordered by a neighbor's chain link fence on my trim side. It is pretty easy to control as I turn up hill after mowing this strip. I used a friend's MoJack EZ yesterday, like it a lot while knocking the excess grass out from under mower deck and am trying to decide between the 2 MoJack products: the MoJack ZR Lawn Tractor Lift model 35301 (scissor lift) vs. the MoJack EZ Mower Lift model #MJEZ (screw lift) MoJackEZdeckclean.png
Any thoughts about pro's and con's of these 2 lift models? Ron in Iowa
Any thoughts about pro's and con's of these 2 lift models? Ron in Iowa
Blades absolute best blade for my 1980 R7070??
here's what i'm looking for....the best blade for cutting my grass without bagging....that will allow my mower to perform even if grass is a little damp or a bit taller than i should let it get. not sure what blade is on there right now, but it does clog at times, and i have to lift deck to allow it to puke out the grass. should i be trying to mulch it, or just get a good blade to side discharge it? thanks, Rick
newbie here-rear height adjustment
Old geezer here with (currently) 4 LB sp's that need rear height adjustment lubing. Shops never seem do do this-necessary? 1-10515, 2-10518 and 1-10552. I have run LB's exclusively for 35 years now, won't use anything else.
Kohler CH25s wont charge
Hi there, I have a Kohler ch25s, I was having problem with charging system, every day I will have to wiggle the wires that connect to the rectifier for the charging system to work, eventually quit and is not charging anymore, I did test the voltage at battery with the engine running and not running same voltage, drop a little when is runing..12.65v/12.53v,
1) Is there any way to test stator or the rectifier?
Also I have the electrical system (stator and Rectifier) from Kohler ch23s, the rectifier looks different that the one install on the engine, but I believed they are both 15amp
2) Do you know if it will work on this engine? ... we really appreciated any help, been working all day today on this mower?hank You
1) Is there any way to test stator or the rectifier?
Also I have the electrical system (stator and Rectifier) from Kohler ch23s, the rectifier looks different that the one install on the engine, but I believed they are both 15amp
2) Do you know if it will work on this engine? ... we really appreciated any help, been working all day today on this mower?hank You
Dixie Chopper Starting/Eletrical woes
Hi,
I appreciate any help with this. I'm in town for the week visiting my mother and thought i'd fix her Dixie Chopper while here. I thought I had a decent understanding of small engines, but I think i've stumbled upon an interesting short so any help finding the culprit welcome!
The mower is an XWL2300 'Millennium Edition' with a Kohler engine.
The mower started blowing a fuse on a black wire coming off the hot side of the starter. Initially seldom, then more frequent to the point she couldn't use the mower. (She had just been feeding it fuses).
Additionally the starter had been engaging the moment you turn the key on, and therefore stayed engaged even after the mower had started. This ruined the starter about the time I arrived.
After replacing the starter the behaviour continued. The moment you turn the key 'on' the starter engaged. The mower will start, but starter stays engaged.
I've tried replacing the key switch, no change. I also checked continuity of the original ignition switch which tested 'good'. The switch is *not* the cause for the starter wire being sent power.
To sum up; The starter engages the moment the key is turned on. The switch has been tested good, and i've confirmed with a voltmeter that the starter wire is indeed getting +12 volts when the key is turned on. If you do let the mower run it will eventually blow a 20amp fuse on a black wire coming off the starter, causing the entire mower to die, and not even attempt to restart until replaced. Any idea where the likely short is that would cause this?
To add; Yesterday after replacing the switch only to have it behave the same I cleaned the original switch and reconnected it. While holding the key switch I started the mower. Within a few seconds I was getting jolted as if I had my finger on a plugwire. Perhaps stupidity on my part for holding the ignition switch housing, but should that level of electricity be coming back to the key switch? The only theory I have now is perhaps a bad voltage regulator causing that, which if it was sending unregulated voltage back up the wiring harness could perhaps explain the blowing of fuses.. But would it explain the starter behaviour? Or am I completely off base with how the voltage regulator is wired.
Any advice welcomed, any additional info happy to provide.
I appreciate any help with this. I'm in town for the week visiting my mother and thought i'd fix her Dixie Chopper while here. I thought I had a decent understanding of small engines, but I think i've stumbled upon an interesting short so any help finding the culprit welcome!
The mower is an XWL2300 'Millennium Edition' with a Kohler engine.
The mower started blowing a fuse on a black wire coming off the hot side of the starter. Initially seldom, then more frequent to the point she couldn't use the mower. (She had just been feeding it fuses).
Additionally the starter had been engaging the moment you turn the key on, and therefore stayed engaged even after the mower had started. This ruined the starter about the time I arrived.
After replacing the starter the behaviour continued. The moment you turn the key 'on' the starter engaged. The mower will start, but starter stays engaged.
I've tried replacing the key switch, no change. I also checked continuity of the original ignition switch which tested 'good'. The switch is *not* the cause for the starter wire being sent power.
To sum up; The starter engages the moment the key is turned on. The switch has been tested good, and i've confirmed with a voltmeter that the starter wire is indeed getting +12 volts when the key is turned on. If you do let the mower run it will eventually blow a 20amp fuse on a black wire coming off the starter, causing the entire mower to die, and not even attempt to restart until replaced. Any idea where the likely short is that would cause this?
To add; Yesterday after replacing the switch only to have it behave the same I cleaned the original switch and reconnected it. While holding the key switch I started the mower. Within a few seconds I was getting jolted as if I had my finger on a plugwire. Perhaps stupidity on my part for holding the ignition switch housing, but should that level of electricity be coming back to the key switch? The only theory I have now is perhaps a bad voltage regulator causing that, which if it was sending unregulated voltage back up the wiring harness could perhaps explain the blowing of fuses.. But would it explain the starter behaviour? Or am I completely off base with how the voltage regulator is wired.
Any advice welcomed, any additional info happy to provide.
HRM215K2SX Blade Clutch Question
A question on the stacking of the blade holder, spring clutch and driven disk onto the pulley assembly. A diagram that I downloaded from the from does not show a thrust washer between the driven disk and the pulley assembly. The Honda parts diagram from their website does. Is there a thrust washer. Also, is there a 10mm washer that goes between the blade holder bolt and the blade holder bearing. I would look at my existing setup but the blade holder bolt broke when my son-in-law was borrowing the unit. I have the main assembly but lost some of the other parts.
Thanks
Thanks
New Iowa member
I am very happy so far with my Hustler Raptor SD 54" (model 932558) purchased 07/07/2015. Hope it was a lucky day. My yard slopes 4-5 degrees with a single mower width strip at the bottom of almost 15 degrees, bordered by a neighbor's chain link fence on my trim side. It is pretty easy to control as I turn up hill after mowing this strip. I used a friend's MoJack EZ yesterday, like it a lot while knocking the excess grass out from under mower deck and am trying to decide between the 2 MoJack products: the MoJack ZR Lawn Tractor Lift model 35301 (scissor lift) vs. the MoJack EZ Mower Lift model #MJEZ (screw lift) MoJackEZdeckclean.png
Any thoughts about pro's and con's of these 2 lift models? Ron in Iowa
Any thoughts about pro's and con's of these 2 lift models? Ron in Iowa
Murray twin engine electrical
I hooked up my solinoid and the wires startedto smoke. I havent tried to fix it yet. But what could i have messed up? I prolly hooked it back wards
lundi 27 juillet 2015
B&S Muffler Replacement
Hi.
I have a Deutscher ride on mower with a Briggs & Stratton 14.5HP Engine. 287707-1224-E1
The mower currently needs a new muffler. The one that is currently fitted is a 496022S with an adapter.
When looking for parts for this engine I found that there were 3 different mufflers available.
According to the parts websites I have seen they are interchangeable but it doesn't look like it would fit without a different adapter or modifications.
I was wanting to know if a 498984S would definitely be a direct replacement part for this engine or not?
It is a bigger muffler and listed as "super low tone" whereas the 496022S is listed as "low tone".
I want to quieten down the ride on as much as possible so I would prefer the 498984S if it is possible to use.
Also I cannot buy the 496022S locally I would have to ship it which will cost twice the price so the 498984S is cheaper for me to purchase.
There is nothing on the mower itself that would interfere with installing a different muffler, it's all down to the engine being compatible.
Thanks.
I have a Deutscher ride on mower with a Briggs & Stratton 14.5HP Engine. 287707-1224-E1
The mower currently needs a new muffler. The one that is currently fitted is a 496022S with an adapter.
When looking for parts for this engine I found that there were 3 different mufflers available.
According to the parts websites I have seen they are interchangeable but it doesn't look like it would fit without a different adapter or modifications.
I was wanting to know if a 498984S would definitely be a direct replacement part for this engine or not?
It is a bigger muffler and listed as "super low tone" whereas the 496022S is listed as "low tone".
I want to quieten down the ride on as much as possible so I would prefer the 498984S if it is possible to use.
Also I cannot buy the 496022S locally I would have to ship it which will cost twice the price so the 498984S is cheaper for me to purchase.
There is nothing on the mower itself that would interfere with installing a different muffler, it's all down to the engine being compatible.
Thanks.
New to me Tiger Cat
Some of you may have seen my post while looking for a new Scag. The 12' Tiger Cat with 61" deck I ended up with is pretty nice. However I noticed earlier that with the deck up in transport position the right deck guide wheel rubs against the front caster wheel while going forward. Is that how it's supposed to be or is something out of whack?
Newbie to this forum
I wanted to formally introduce my mower to this forum. I purchased it around mid July from the previous owner who purchased the HRC216HXA back in the fall of 2012. I originally was going to purchase a used HRX217HXA but decided to get this one since its Honda's top of the line 21" mower. So far, I've only needed to adjust the drive cable but I'd like some instructions on how to adjust the throttle because though its set to high, I suspect its not at it maximum factory RPM setting. Are there any links to a DIY on performing this procedure? I intend to buy a tachometer very soon.
DRIVE BELT PROBLEMS
Hey all, this is my first post of many I'm sure. I have a Craftsman 42" 6 speed lawn tractor model no. 917.270514. Recently I purchased new drive belt and a new deck belt (checked owners manual and purchased the correct 1/2" x 95" belt for the drive and a 1/2" x 88 3/8" for the deck). I changed the deck belt first then the drive belt. hooked everything back up and started it to check how everything went. When I engaged the blades my mandrel housing on the left snapped right off the deck. Removed deck again and set it off to the side and ordered replacement mandrels today. I then started the tractor again to see if the drive belt did what it was supposed to do. I put it in first and away it went. I went to put it in second and the shifter knob wouldn't move out of first. I even had a hard time getting it back to neutral and even when I did it still felt like it wanted to pull! I am beyond lost. If there is anyone out there that can give a brother some guidance it would be most helpful.
Lights for ZT48 HD
I bought a new Gravely 48HD mower about a month ago. I use it to maintain my mom's property. Depending on my schedule & the weather, I sometimes have to do it after work and its a 2-3 hour job.
I want to add work lights to it, and I am debating on the oem lights vs. led. I like the led because of the reduced power draw, but don't want any issues.
Any one have any experience with either route?
Thanks,
Rob
I want to add work lights to it, and I am debating on the oem lights vs. led. I like the led because of the reduced power draw, but don't want any issues.
Any one have any experience with either route?
Thanks,
Rob
Why does this part of my lawn look so bad? drought?
I topdressed and overseeded my lawn with bluegrass last fall, the result was very good. But after the snow melted at the end of April I noticed that grasses in some parts of the lawn started to thin out. Here's what my front yard looks like today:
The right side of the lawn does get more shade than the left side, is this the main reason for the poor result? I am planning to topdress and overseed that part in early September with bluegrass again.
Here's a close up of the right side:
Left side:
My second question is that my backyard has been invaded by a type of grass about a month and a half ago, which looks like:
Ironically they are keeping most of backyard very green, is this a type of weed like crabgrass?
The right side of the lawn does get more shade than the left side, is this the main reason for the poor result? I am planning to topdress and overseed that part in early September with bluegrass again.
Here's a close up of the right side:
Left side:
My second question is that my backyard has been invaded by a type of grass about a month and a half ago, which looks like:
Ironically they are keeping most of backyard very green, is this a type of weed like crabgrass?
Scotts Riding Mower Electrical Issue
Hey Y'all.
Just joined with Scott RM electrical question. Not able to engage blade clutch; no power to clutch; died in a heart beat while running. Mower runs ok otherwise. The electrical schematic shows 2 fuses. One off battery 25a (easy to find) and another for electrical clutch ckt. I can not find the clutch fuse. Where is it usually hidden? Any suggestions would be appreciated. It's a good day to mow grass in Siler City, NC, sort of cloudy. Have a good day; mine's so-so thus far.
Robert
rlhall3071
Just joined with Scott RM electrical question. Not able to engage blade clutch; no power to clutch; died in a heart beat while running. Mower runs ok otherwise. The electrical schematic shows 2 fuses. One off battery 25a (easy to find) and another for electrical clutch ckt. I can not find the clutch fuse. Where is it usually hidden? Any suggestions would be appreciated. It's a good day to mow grass in Siler City, NC, sort of cloudy. Have a good day; mine's so-so thus far.
Robert
rlhall3071
Repairs kohler cv15s runs about 20 mins and backfires and stalls
hi i have a john deere with a 15 hp command engine mod.# cv15s it backfires and stalls let sit a few minutes and it restarts.?
I've changed fuel filter
also put a new carb. on it
replaced the spark plug
it seemed to be fixed i ran it for 3 hrs and it ran fine. About 3 or 4 hrs. i had to move it out of my shop to get another mower in as it was idling its stalled again when i got it back in my shop it started backfiring an wouldn't start it had plenty of spark. it sat a few mins. and it started up like nothing was wrong? i have never come across this problem can anyone help me? someone said its the hydraulic lifters sticking but i'm not sure
CAN ANYONE HELP ME OUT?
thx
kevin
I've changed fuel filter
also put a new carb. on it
replaced the spark plug
it seemed to be fixed i ran it for 3 hrs and it ran fine. About 3 or 4 hrs. i had to move it out of my shop to get another mower in as it was idling its stalled again when i got it back in my shop it started backfiring an wouldn't start it had plenty of spark. it sat a few mins. and it started up like nothing was wrong? i have never come across this problem can anyone help me? someone said its the hydraulic lifters sticking but i'm not sure
CAN ANYONE HELP ME OUT?
thx
kevin
Seized Blade Boss, which heating torch??
Hey guys,
I have a blade boss that won't come off. I've tried a 2 jaw puller.. and even that (and the metal bolt in the middle) is squishing .. this thing wont budge and I'm tempted to smack it with a hammer. Someone suggested heating the boss to expand it and break it free.
I'm looking to now buy a Propane Torch.. but.. I have no idea what I need, or how hot I need to get the part(s). What do you guys recommend in the way of portable torches (cheap priced).
I was looking at bunnings and supercheap auto and came across, (australia)
Hot Devil Propane Torch Kit - Supercheap Auto Australia
Tradeflame Propane Handyman Full Flame Blow Torch Kit I/N 5910245 | Bunnings Warehouse
Tradeflame Propane Handyman Pinpoint Blow Torch Kit I/N 5910244 | Bunnings Warehouse
Dont really know the differences. Are there any that have refillable canisters ?
Thanks :)
I have a blade boss that won't come off. I've tried a 2 jaw puller.. and even that (and the metal bolt in the middle) is squishing .. this thing wont budge and I'm tempted to smack it with a hammer. Someone suggested heating the boss to expand it and break it free.
I'm looking to now buy a Propane Torch.. but.. I have no idea what I need, or how hot I need to get the part(s). What do you guys recommend in the way of portable torches (cheap priced).
I was looking at bunnings and supercheap auto and came across, (australia)
Hot Devil Propane Torch Kit - Supercheap Auto Australia
Tradeflame Propane Handyman Full Flame Blow Torch Kit I/N 5910245 | Bunnings Warehouse
Tradeflame Propane Handyman Pinpoint Blow Torch Kit I/N 5910244 | Bunnings Warehouse
Dont really know the differences. Are there any that have refillable canisters ?
Thanks :)
dimanche 26 juillet 2015
oil leak from top of deck ???
i have 2 exact same mowers both have oil leaks. ones worse then the other i cannot tell where its coming from tho??
b&s 6hp bowl nut gasket?
can i make my own if so what material can i use? also how can i find the part number for this??
Comparison Dixie Chopper 2250PH or LandPrice ZSR - Razor What do you know
Wanted owner reliability and performance wanted on Dixie Chopper 2250HP 50 light commercial and Landpride ZSR Razor 54 Estate. The DC has Kawasaki FX 22 PH engine, HydroGear ZT3200, 10 GA welded top plated deck, 17,875 tip speed, 1.25 blade spindles, 23 tires for just a little under 6K. The LP has Kawasaki 23PH engine, HydroGear ZT3100, HydroGear ZT3100, 10GA welded deck w/doubler plate, 18,515 tip speed, 1-3/8 blade spindles, and 20 tires for just above 5K. Your experience with either or both of these machines will be appreciated.
Turbo Diesel Over Heating - Sabre Tooth Tiger
I have a Turbo Diesel Sabre Tooth Tiger. It overheats. The fan is turning. the screen is clean, etc.
Any suggestions.
The engine is vey strong. Would like to keep it of possible.
Any suggestions
Any suggestions.
The engine is vey strong. Would like to keep it of possible.
Any suggestions
Need new Diesel Engine for Saber Tooth Tiger
i have a Scag Sabre Tooth Tiger in good condition. My engine warms up and the oil pressure drops. I am guessing that I need a new engine. Any recommendations on buying a new engine or getting this one overhauled?
Love this mower. A hired hand used to overheat by not cleaning the screen. Also, did not do a cool down. The turbo is probably in need of replacement
Love this mower. A hired hand used to overheat by not cleaning the screen. Also, did not do a cool down. The turbo is probably in need of replacement
Already thinking about leaf cleanup
I know the summer is only halfway over, but I am already thinking about fall and leaf cleanups. This year I am really going to market this service. In years past, I have made mistakes where I don't charge more for the yards I mow, but I have to spend longer there cleaning up the leaves as well as mowing. So this year I will be giving them the option of paying a bit extra, or I will just mow over the leaves (mulching them), and they will have to deal with small leaf clippings on their yard. In years past I have used the bagger on the mower to clean up the leaves and mow at the same time, but when there is a lot of leaves on the ground that becomes very inefficient. I would then use the blower, but after the pile of leaves got to a certain size I was unable to push it any further due to my blower not having enough power. So this year I will be buying an Echo backpack blower, to help me be more efficient with cleanups. I also want to get customers who just want me to do the cleanups, and not mow their yard as well, because I rarely have any of those customers. I was thinking about getting the Echo PB-500 (the tube mounted throttle model), but then this evening I was looking at my Echo catalog, and realized the 500 isn't the most "bang for my buck". The Echo PB-580 (NEW FOR 2015!) weighs the same, is not any heavier, has more features, way better blowing performance, AND IS THE SAME PRICE!! So I am going to be getting the 580 in the tube mounted throttle model. I know some people will tell me to get a Stihl BR-600, but I want an all Echo fleet. I swear by Echo, and until I have a problem, I will continue to buy Echo. Here is a comparison between the 500 and 580.
--->comparison.PNG
--->comparison.PNG
HRM215K2SX Drive Problem
This is an old mower but runs great. Problem is with the transmission. Wheels turn fine in low gear. They don't turn at all in high gear. Does anyone have any ideas on the problem?
Thanks
Thanks
Buying Advice Looking for a new (ish?) front mount Grasshopper mower
I have just joined this forum and am looking for advise.... so I have come to the experts here.
I live in Kenosha, WI. and currently have an Ariens Zoom ZTR mower that is really hard on my body over lumpy ground. I am 67 and feel like I need a new set of kidneys every time I mow. I plan on getting a new(ish?) front mount mower in the next 30 days mainly because of the ease of maintaining the deck and blades. Everyone makes a mid mount mower, but not so much front mounts. I have about 1.5 acres to mow and a long driveway to snow blow.
To make a long story short, I am currently looking at 727T EFI 52" mower with a 48 or 60" snow blower attachment. My reasoning for this mower is that a smaller 623 is maxed out with a 52" deck and 48"snow blower; the 727 EFI is more fuel efficient than the 725 and the 700 series mowers would keep their value better, if well maintained, as they are more versatile. I do not mow commercially, so don't think the extra cost for a diesel engine would be worth while. In your opinion, is the 727 way overkill?
I have seen a used 2005 725G2 (200 hrs) with 48' snow blower with cab and 52" deck for about $6,000 located in Michigan, which seems to be a good deal, but I know nothing about the quality of used equipment. If I can, I usually buy new, and Grasshopper seems to have a good reputation and hold their value well. Cost is not a major factor (unless outrageously high)...reliability, ease of maintenance, drive handling (some 15 deg or less side hill mowing), and a smooth ride (Grammar seat?) are the most important to me.
I live in Kenosha, WI. and currently have an Ariens Zoom ZTR mower that is really hard on my body over lumpy ground. I am 67 and feel like I need a new set of kidneys every time I mow. I plan on getting a new(ish?) front mount mower in the next 30 days mainly because of the ease of maintaining the deck and blades. Everyone makes a mid mount mower, but not so much front mounts. I have about 1.5 acres to mow and a long driveway to snow blow.
To make a long story short, I am currently looking at 727T EFI 52" mower with a 48 or 60" snow blower attachment. My reasoning for this mower is that a smaller 623 is maxed out with a 52" deck and 48"snow blower; the 727 EFI is more fuel efficient than the 725 and the 700 series mowers would keep their value better, if well maintained, as they are more versatile. I do not mow commercially, so don't think the extra cost for a diesel engine would be worth while. In your opinion, is the 727 way overkill?
I have seen a used 2005 725G2 (200 hrs) with 48' snow blower with cab and 52" deck for about $6,000 located in Michigan, which seems to be a good deal, but I know nothing about the quality of used equipment. If I can, I usually buy new, and Grasshopper seems to have a good reputation and hold their value well. Cost is not a major factor (unless outrageously high)...reliability, ease of maintenance, drive handling (some 15 deg or less side hill mowing), and a smooth ride (Grammar seat?) are the most important to me.
Is the Dixon 4515 a decent machine?
Someday I plan to buy myself a very nice zero turn (M-ZT52 maybe?),but in the meantime I was hoping to find something cheaper to shave some time off mowing the yard. My in-laws have had the old cone drive Dixons for a very long time and other than the obvious chain and transmission issues they held up well. I have available a fairly clean 4515 with a bad engine for cheap. Its a 42" deck and has a bad 15.5 Vanguard engine.
How durable are the hydro transmissions on these? I have a 15HP Kohler command engine that's good (which was an option for the mower) but I'm not super familiar with the ins and outs of repowering a mower. I believe both mowers use a 1" shaft but the other dimensions are what I don't understand.
Any thoughts on the 4515 would be greatly appreciated!!
How durable are the hydro transmissions on these? I have a 15HP Kohler command engine that's good (which was an option for the mower) but I'm not super familiar with the ins and outs of repowering a mower. I believe both mowers use a 1" shaft but the other dimensions are what I don't understand.
Any thoughts on the 4515 would be greatly appreciated!!
Best way to mow crab grass
I have a stand of what i used to call water grass but I think it is crab grass.
It is soaking wet all the time and grows like crazy. It can be 100 degrees out side and the grass is full of water. Just leaves a mess of clipping's on the lawn that tend to build up over the summer. The hotter and the higher the humidity the more it grows. As soon as it gets cool it quits growing.
I'm told that the only way to kill it is to use a chemical before it starts to grow in the spring. If anyone knows how to kill it in the summer I would like to know about it.
Does anyone have a way to mow it so it does not look so bad? I'm mowing 2 or 3 times a week now to keep it from growing as tall.
Thanks
It is soaking wet all the time and grows like crazy. It can be 100 degrees out side and the grass is full of water. Just leaves a mess of clipping's on the lawn that tend to build up over the summer. The hotter and the higher the humidity the more it grows. As soon as it gets cool it quits growing.
I'm told that the only way to kill it is to use a chemical before it starts to grow in the spring. If anyone knows how to kill it in the summer I would like to know about it.
Does anyone have a way to mow it so it does not look so bad? I'm mowing 2 or 3 times a week now to keep it from growing as tall.
Thanks
Sears Mower Model No. 917.288 Mower Deck Lift Mechanism
The tractor lift assembly does not support the right side of the mower. When the lift assembly Lever is at position 6 the left side has 3" clearance, but the right side has less than one inch [ the wheel that prevents scalping is what holds up the right side]. I can lower the assembly to 4 and the left goes down, but the right is still at less than one inch. What is causing the problem? Schematic is attached.
grasshopper 718 with 18hp briggs
could someone tell me how many amp stator i have thats located behind the fly wheel. my mod. # is 350447 type # is 1195-e1. and if you know the pt.# that would help thanks :smile:
grasshopper 718 with 18hp briggs
could someone tell me how many amp stator i have thats located behind the fly wheel. my mod. # is350447 type # is 1195-e1. and if you know the pt.# that would help thanks :smile:
Best type/make/model for 1-acre of residential lawn with hills - did I buy wrong?
My lawn is an acre, has hills, fence corners and half of it has trees/flower beds. For thirty years I mowed it with an 8hp Wards/Yard Machine rider, then the next eleven years with a Cub Cadet 2135. I didn't realize it at the time, but the Cub was nearly perfect for my application.
When the Cub went missing, I thought zero turn would be faster and give a better cut. I found a decent deal on a like-new Toro TimeCutter SS 4235. The learning curve has been much steeper than I expected, but I may just have bought the wrong machine for my layout.
There is one fenced corner which slopes downhill from both directions. I haven't found any combination of steer which will work. The Toro just flat won't turn or back up on the slope. Not sure the fence will survive another tangle.
There's another steep slope which the mower won't climb up and slides when mowing sideways. That hill required some skill on the Cub (steep enough so the rear wheels slid going down under compression) but I mowed down/across it every week.
Right now, I'm considering selling the Toro and buying another Cub Cadet.
Questions:
If I give the Toro another chance, how can should I be steering in the downhill corner?
The Toro has only two wheels on the deck and it scalps worse than the Cub which had five anti-scalp wheels on the deck. Anyone ever added a front roller and two rear wheels to the Toro deck?
If I decide to go back to the tractor style, what's the best ever made in a 36"-42" deck? I was happy with the Cub Cadet 2135 and it seemed better made than the current models. The old Kohler single shakes like a dog shittin' a peach pit, but it seemingly runs forever and 13hp was enough.
Thanks in advance for any and all advice.
jack vines
When the Cub went missing, I thought zero turn would be faster and give a better cut. I found a decent deal on a like-new Toro TimeCutter SS 4235. The learning curve has been much steeper than I expected, but I may just have bought the wrong machine for my layout.
There is one fenced corner which slopes downhill from both directions. I haven't found any combination of steer which will work. The Toro just flat won't turn or back up on the slope. Not sure the fence will survive another tangle.
There's another steep slope which the mower won't climb up and slides when mowing sideways. That hill required some skill on the Cub (steep enough so the rear wheels slid going down under compression) but I mowed down/across it every week.
Right now, I'm considering selling the Toro and buying another Cub Cadet.
Questions:
If I give the Toro another chance, how can should I be steering in the downhill corner?
The Toro has only two wheels on the deck and it scalps worse than the Cub which had five anti-scalp wheels on the deck. Anyone ever added a front roller and two rear wheels to the Toro deck?
If I decide to go back to the tractor style, what's the best ever made in a 36"-42" deck? I was happy with the Cub Cadet 2135 and it seemed better made than the current models. The old Kohler single shakes like a dog shittin' a peach pit, but it seemingly runs forever and 13hp was enough.
Thanks in advance for any and all advice.
jack vines
Blade sharping
How many hours should you run before you sharpen your blades? I have a Scag Tiger Cat with a 52" deck.
Thanks
Thanks
Greetings from KY, the Bluegrass State
Hi there, happy to be aboard.
I am currently a residential mower with a green thumb so to say. I take pride in my yard and yard work, and try to help others succeed in theirs not only through advice or sharing information but also gardening techniques. I enjoy gardening and growing good organic food to put back for our winter months, reducing trips to the grocery store for that awful California stuff. There are many like me here!
I currently enjoy mowing with my 1889 John Deere 285 garden tractor, which can be considered an antique at this point. It still has it's original heavy steel stamped deck, but an upgraded air cooled engine. It has been a joy to help keep up a classic mower which is pretty much built like a rock. However that being said, I have decided to move it to our 2nd property location and invest in a ZTR for my home, which is what brought me here.
After the JD engine (Kawasaki FD590V) liquid cooled engine kicked the dust on me sometime last year, I decided to upgrade to a plug-and-play model which was on the market, the Briggs and Stratton Platinum series single piston 21HP air cooled engine, with a Craftsman branding sticker on it. So far it's been a good upgrade, or trade-out I should say as the Kawasaki was fantastic. After the engine broke down I decided I would dissect it, and learn about the small engine. In doing so I was able to find the issues that caused it to die, as well as clean up the good parts and sell them through auction sites to recoup the money for the upgrade, coming out in the end even, maybe even slightly ahead.
If you have never been inside of a small engine, it's worth a try. Find an old junker and just go through it. You will learn a lot in the process which could keep you out of the shop with the help of some decent tools and a good YouTube how-to.
Anyway, me in a nutshell. Hope to share some worthwhile info in the future.
Homer
I am currently a residential mower with a green thumb so to say. I take pride in my yard and yard work, and try to help others succeed in theirs not only through advice or sharing information but also gardening techniques. I enjoy gardening and growing good organic food to put back for our winter months, reducing trips to the grocery store for that awful California stuff. There are many like me here!
I currently enjoy mowing with my 1889 John Deere 285 garden tractor, which can be considered an antique at this point. It still has it's original heavy steel stamped deck, but an upgraded air cooled engine. It has been a joy to help keep up a classic mower which is pretty much built like a rock. However that being said, I have decided to move it to our 2nd property location and invest in a ZTR for my home, which is what brought me here.
After the JD engine (Kawasaki FD590V) liquid cooled engine kicked the dust on me sometime last year, I decided to upgrade to a plug-and-play model which was on the market, the Briggs and Stratton Platinum series single piston 21HP air cooled engine, with a Craftsman branding sticker on it. So far it's been a good upgrade, or trade-out I should say as the Kawasaki was fantastic. After the engine broke down I decided I would dissect it, and learn about the small engine. In doing so I was able to find the issues that caused it to die, as well as clean up the good parts and sell them through auction sites to recoup the money for the upgrade, coming out in the end even, maybe even slightly ahead.
If you have never been inside of a small engine, it's worth a try. Find an old junker and just go through it. You will learn a lot in the process which could keep you out of the shop with the help of some decent tools and a good YouTube how-to.
Anyway, me in a nutshell. Hope to share some worthwhile info in the future.
Homer
v twin 20hp not running right
i have a 20 hp v twin cylinder that is giving me issues. I consider myself pretty good with mower engines but I am lost now. it runs good on half chock but stays at high idle and doesn't slow back down. it has a little miss here in there. if I take it off chock it will idle good but at high idle it hunts bad almost to a point of dying. what I have done so far, rebuilt carb, all new fuel lines and a new fuel pump and gas tank. new plugs and set valves. there is no air mixture screw on the carb, that would be what I would adjust now if it had one. can anyone steer me towards something I have missed?
721D power-fold control box won't tilt up
The control box that needs to tilt up is stuck. I can't tilt it up to activate the switch to raise the deck.It's as if the back of the piston'spacers an control box are wedged. Anybody run into this before?
samedi 25 juillet 2015
looking for 1st ZTR, heavily leaning on the Liberty Z
Any advice on SCAG, what to buy, what not to, how it mows, how it lasts, etc..
I remember seeing SCAG in my area years ago, but never close.. We have a dealer about 30 minutes from here, and the SCAG makes my top 3 list right now compared to the Gravely HD and the Dixie Chopper Magnum.
I'm about to pull my hair out reading reviews, specs, pricing. Why should I choose a Scag? Help me please, lol.. Price range for me, 6k or less, mowing residential varying terrain, less than 3 acres a week.
I remember seeing SCAG in my area years ago, but never close.. We have a dealer about 30 minutes from here, and the SCAG makes my top 3 list right now compared to the Gravely HD and the Dixie Chopper Magnum.
I'm about to pull my hair out reading reviews, specs, pricing. Why should I choose a Scag? Help me please, lol.. Price range for me, 6k or less, mowing residential varying terrain, less than 3 acres a week.
How are the 2015 models?
Anyone have first hand experience with the DC's from this year. I am considering them over the Gravely and maybe Scag unit's which seem to score highest in overall build quality and cut quality, according to those I personally know who use them.
I am focusing on the Magnum or Magnum HP models, due to my budget, More than likely just the Magnum.
Things I like: The Hydros are tough, the build "looks" tough from what I see, the deck height system is foot activated, the x blade and or blade system with the overlapping blades seems solid based on experience with all other mowers in the past.
Things I don't like:
I've read that in the past, at least prior to the buyout, some DC dealers just closed up shop, unannounced.
I have read about the decks not mowing good at all, at least between certain years, 05+ maybe to I don't know when.
The lack of overall reviews.
The fact that although I see some, I don't see half as many as I do Grasshopper or Gravely units on my local commercial trucks.
I really want to consider the Magnum a decent residential unit, at least able to cut very well up to 3 acres a week. I also like their build, but I really need some hands on experience or reviews of today's DC. Anyone out there?
I am focusing on the Magnum or Magnum HP models, due to my budget, More than likely just the Magnum.
Things I like: The Hydros are tough, the build "looks" tough from what I see, the deck height system is foot activated, the x blade and or blade system with the overlapping blades seems solid based on experience with all other mowers in the past.
Things I don't like:
I've read that in the past, at least prior to the buyout, some DC dealers just closed up shop, unannounced.
I have read about the decks not mowing good at all, at least between certain years, 05+ maybe to I don't know when.
The lack of overall reviews.
The fact that although I see some, I don't see half as many as I do Grasshopper or Gravely units on my local commercial trucks.
I really want to consider the Magnum a decent residential unit, at least able to cut very well up to 3 acres a week. I also like their build, but I really need some hands on experience or reviews of today's DC. Anyone out there?
MTV Brand Engine?
Well I have been out of the loop for some time and didn't even know there was such a thing as an MTV brand Engine. Model 4P90HU
A friend who is a very experience tech has one which will only start and run if he holds his hand over the carb intake. He says he has cleaned the carb using an Ultra Sound cleaner, used tag wire on ports, sprayed carb cleaner around the gasket areas, cut end off carb solenoid, it has strong suction. I think it still has to be a carb problem, he doesn't think it can be.
Any suggestions?
Walt Conner
A friend who is a very experience tech has one which will only start and run if he holds his hand over the carb intake. He says he has cleaned the carb using an Ultra Sound cleaner, used tag wire on ports, sprayed carb cleaner around the gasket areas, cut end off carb solenoid, it has strong suction. I think it still has to be a carb problem, he doesn't think it can be.
Any suggestions?
Walt Conner
2800 Simplicity Riding Lawn Mowers Just Recalled
Quote:
July 17th, 2015
The deck's grass clipping chute deflector on the zero turn mowers and garden tractors can fail to prevent projectiles from being expelled posing a risk of injury to consumers.
Swap decks on a Husqvarna?
Is it possible to swap a 54" deck on my YTH2454 for a, say, 42" deck from a Husqy, Craftsman, Poulan, etc...? I have some reasons to have two different blade setups for my business, and would like to use the YTH as a dual-unit depending on the workload. If I find a 42" or 46" deck, can I simply drop the 54" and belt up the 42"?
TIA!
TIA!
My 19 year old Toro Groundsmaster 120
Hello all. I signed up just to post my problem/question. My very dependable Toro Groundsmaster 120, has lost its ability to go forward or reverse. No warning at all, happened all at once. First I thought the belt had failed that drives the pump, but no that was not it. I don't think its the pump as the deck still raises fine, using the hydro cyl. After much reading I am thinking its the "differential" (if that's what you call it). My brother said it could be the "spider" gears in the differential? When I engage the clutch it make the normal sound it has for the last 19 years, but no motion of moving at all. Any of you have any ideas if I'm on the right track? I am no dummy when it comes to mechanical things, but this one is over my head. Thanks so much for any input, Larry (-:
Carburetor Replacement Walbro LME 5-250, Tecumseh SBV-271E 4331F
I am doing some volunteer work at an outdoor club and they have no mower so I had been looking for a cheap mower to flip. I have no experience other than monkey see monkey do from some youtube videos for flipping mowers. I found a snapper rer 2811x5s at a garage sale, i could get it to fire but not run at first so I cleaned the carburetor. It is severly pitted and the threads the bowl nut go into are all but gone and wont thread. since the cleaning I was able to put fuel in and get it to actually run for 90 seconds. My thoughts are to replace carb but I am not finding the replacement walbro LME 5-250 available. Can someone help to find the correct replacement. Not sure that it matters but in researching this seems to be a replacement 8hp engine rather than the 11hp that was original. Its in pretty good shape for 1980 something. Thanks in advance.
Repairs MTD / Yard Machine Edger 3.5 HSP Keeps destroying belts
I have a 3.5 HSP MTD/Yard Machine Edger that i have had for approx. 15+ years, this year i noticed that the belt was getting a little loose, so i bought a new one and installed it, during the second time edging my yard i noticed that the belt was fraying a little and i noticed that the belt had turned itself upside down, so i took it off and trim the frays then went back to edging, then the belt flipped upside down again and really went to fraying apart. So i thought i must have bought a bad belt and went to purchase another one, mind you that the original belt was 15+ years no problems, the new belt cost $24 and lasted 2 weeks, the second belt did the exact same thing that the other belt did, so it lasted 2 weeks and another $24, so now i am stumped and $50 later with no belt. Please help....any ideas??? before i go buy another $24 belt, if i keep this up i could have bought another entire edger for what i have spent on belts alone.
Toro 22" 190cc personal pace engine dies engaging self propelled
New member but had a repair question that has me stumped. I have a toro 22" 190cc personal pace engine. The engine starts easily and seems to run okay, however the moment I push forward to engage the self propelled it dies. The troubleshooting steps I've taken are:
Check the spark plug and clean it (probably could use a new one)
remove the carburetor, disassemble the lower half, remove bowl/float/pin and clean with carb cleaner
clean air intake/filter (could use a new filter) but engine also has same problem with air filter guard and filter are completely removed
Fill it with fresh fuel
Remove the guards covering the drive belt and confirm there are no obstructions. confirm the bent will move freely when manually spinning the blade with the tension engaged.
The engine when not being pushed ran okay, however I tried to cut the lawn without use the self propelled, I made it about a row and a half and the engine died. This happened before any troubleshooting steps other than fresh fuel.
The blade when manually spun works okay, there's some resistance and about every 2 rotations there's a slide sticking point where there's more resistance but only required a little more manual effort.
I'm not terribly handy however with great youtube videos I feel confident handling most simple repairs but I'm not sure if I'm at the point of going to a repair shop. Thanks in advance for any advice!
Check the spark plug and clean it (probably could use a new one)
remove the carburetor, disassemble the lower half, remove bowl/float/pin and clean with carb cleaner
clean air intake/filter (could use a new filter) but engine also has same problem with air filter guard and filter are completely removed
Fill it with fresh fuel
Remove the guards covering the drive belt and confirm there are no obstructions. confirm the bent will move freely when manually spinning the blade with the tension engaged.
The engine when not being pushed ran okay, however I tried to cut the lawn without use the self propelled, I made it about a row and a half and the engine died. This happened before any troubleshooting steps other than fresh fuel.
The blade when manually spun works okay, there's some resistance and about every 2 rotations there's a slide sticking point where there's more resistance but only required a little more manual effort.
I'm not terribly handy however with great youtube videos I feel confident handling most simple repairs but I'm not sure if I'm at the point of going to a repair shop. Thanks in advance for any advice!
Where does this part go???
It's a bit embarrassing but as I was taking apart the housing on my FS 45 string trimmer a part fell out. I heard it come out but didn't see where it came from. :confused2:
Stihl FS 45 part.JPG
Anyone know what it is and where it goes?
Thanks!
Stihl FS 45 part.JPG
Anyone know what it is and where it goes?
Thanks!
Husqvarna 28cc 2-Cycle 128LD 17-in Straight Shaft Gas String Trimmer
I am considering purchasing this string trimmer but wanted to get opinions on it before I make the purchase. I am planning on purchasing from Lowes as I have a gift card.
I have had other cheap trimmers that don't last or are just plain junk. I am ready to move up to a better trimmer and have read mostly good reviews on this one.
Should I purchase a two year extended warranty for $24.95?
Any advice would be greatly appreciated.
I have had other cheap trimmers that don't last or are just plain junk. I am ready to move up to a better trimmer and have read mostly good reviews on this one.
Should I purchase a two year extended warranty for $24.95?
Any advice would be greatly appreciated.
Jacobsen mowers
my grandfather owned 3 jacobsen products A manor reel mower A Jacobsen 4 blade rotary mower with 4 cycle engine and a Jacobsen Snow Jet snowblower all great products
917.270514 14.5HP 42" Deck Craftsman Riding mower Just lost power while mowing
I was just mowing and the mower just stopped. I turn the key, Nothing. i checked the button under the seat and thats not the problem. I was mowing some high grass, and had the deck all the way up. I didnt hear anything unusual before it happened. I didnt see anything in the blades....it didnt bog down or anything, so i replaced the fuse and it starts now, but if i put it in gear OR if i turn the blades on, it chokes out and dies...any ideas?
Tecumseh VLV 66 will not start unless shot with starting fluid
Hi all..
I've got a VLV 66 Tecumseh that came in for a no starting complaint. Had sat for three years with bad fuel; carb was shot. Replaced carb and reset valves as there was a leak on the intake side. Everything set to factory specs; new head gasket, good primer, new intake and air cleaner gaskets. Fresh fuel. This thing will NOT start unless you shoot it with ether into the air cleaner port, then it fires on the first pull. After that it will fire every time until it sits for over 2-4 hours. I've gone through every troubleshooting issue there is on this thing. Very few things stump me, but this one is a real head scratcher.
Would appreciate input on what you think I'm missing. Been working on small engines over 40 years and I feel like a goof on this one!!!
All help appreciated!!!
Tom
I've got a VLV 66 Tecumseh that came in for a no starting complaint. Had sat for three years with bad fuel; carb was shot. Replaced carb and reset valves as there was a leak on the intake side. Everything set to factory specs; new head gasket, good primer, new intake and air cleaner gaskets. Fresh fuel. This thing will NOT start unless you shoot it with ether into the air cleaner port, then it fires on the first pull. After that it will fire every time until it sits for over 2-4 hours. I've gone through every troubleshooting issue there is on this thing. Very few things stump me, but this one is a real head scratcher.
Would appreciate input on what you think I'm missing. Been working on small engines over 40 years and I feel like a goof on this one!!!
All help appreciated!!!
Tom
CH 25s engine misfires under load
This is on a 2002 Toro Dingo 425 with CH25s Kohler, ex-rental, rode hard and put away wet.
It starts, idles and runs fine @ no load ( maybe the occasional miss at full throttle). But when I put it under load it bucks and bawls with heavy misses. To me it sounds like true backfiring (through carb) as opposed to afterfire through exhaust. I can operate smoothly enough at 1/4 - 1/3 throttle but this is not good for a hydraulic drive.
The condition seems to improve slightly with warm-up, esp. in winter, but it's getting worse overall. I did all the fuel things: new fuel pump, new filter, cleaned carb. I didn't think it was fuel anyway because the condition happens immediately when opening the throttle, not like draining the bowl of fuel. Compression is 185, exactly the same both sides.
Can't be spark breakdown due to heat because it happens cold or hot. Choking the carb just makes things worse. The plugs look normal. No smoking or excessive soot in exhaust pipe. Carb governor linkage operates freely. I'm not sure which particular ign. system this has (CDI of some sort?) but the flywheel key is in place and nothing is wobbly there.
At this point I am thinking valve issues. Not burnt but maybe loose seat or bad lifters. Any thoughts from you guys before I take the plunge? Any other checks I can do?
I love that Dingo and really need to bring her back to life.
It starts, idles and runs fine @ no load ( maybe the occasional miss at full throttle). But when I put it under load it bucks and bawls with heavy misses. To me it sounds like true backfiring (through carb) as opposed to afterfire through exhaust. I can operate smoothly enough at 1/4 - 1/3 throttle but this is not good for a hydraulic drive.
The condition seems to improve slightly with warm-up, esp. in winter, but it's getting worse overall. I did all the fuel things: new fuel pump, new filter, cleaned carb. I didn't think it was fuel anyway because the condition happens immediately when opening the throttle, not like draining the bowl of fuel. Compression is 185, exactly the same both sides.
Can't be spark breakdown due to heat because it happens cold or hot. Choking the carb just makes things worse. The plugs look normal. No smoking or excessive soot in exhaust pipe. Carb governor linkage operates freely. I'm not sure which particular ign. system this has (CDI of some sort?) but the flywheel key is in place and nothing is wobbly there.
At this point I am thinking valve issues. Not burnt but maybe loose seat or bad lifters. Any thoughts from you guys before I take the plunge? Any other checks I can do?
I love that Dingo and really need to bring her back to life.
Scotts L1742 Pulley Help
I'm very uneducated with lawn mowers so I'll try to explain this as best as I can. I'm pretty sure this an idler pulley. The pulley has been wobbling so I took it off to replace it and it turns out that the screw that holds it in place was stripped and turning freely while the pulley was turning. I was trying to remove the screw to replace it but the screw is flat on the bottom and you cant use a wrench. But on top the screw has this round piece that fits in the pulley for the pulley to rotate around. The round piece is bigger than the hole so I can't just knock the screw out and the round piece is made into the screw so that doesn't come off seperate. I'm not sure how the manufacturer assembled this since it's made into the hole like that but I was wondering if I should just cut it out and if I do what would I buy to replace it since this screw would be cut out and I can't put another like it in? I hope you can understand what I mean. Thanks
123K02 0631-E1 stall after 10 min
Hi guys,
Have push mower with 21 inch blade and 6.5hp Briggs & Stratton (123K02 0631-E1).
It starts fine and I work with it for 10 15 min and it stalls out and will not start again. I have to wait until it cools down to re-start it.
Can someone please help me with this?
Have push mower with 21 inch blade and 6.5hp Briggs & Stratton (123K02 0631-E1).
It starts fine and I work with it for 10 15 min and it stalls out and will not start again. I have to wait until it cools down to re-start it.
Can someone please help me with this?
White lt145
The deck spring came off after I hit something and I see the bracket in the rear but not positive where it connects to pull deck back for belt tension. There us a bracket the deck connect or hangs from that is s big square with a big round cut out and that has a shaft towards the rearrear that it might connect to. If anyone has this mower that could take a quick pic just look under the rear or back between back tires that spring is easy to see. Also it is TIGHT and hard to stretch that far. Maybe hook a thin rope around one end to pull it back. Any ideas? Thanks banjomaniac
vendredi 24 juillet 2015
10694 self-propulsion question
Is there any type of aftermarket or OEM kit available to add self-propulsion to my 10694? My wife has rheumatoid arthritis and needs the self-propulsion feature. If nothing like this exists, I guess I'll be looking to trade.
Kohler vs Kawasaki engine for my new machine?
First post!
I'm shopping for a new ZTR. I have narrowed my search down to 2 machines: Kubota and Gravely. The models I am interested in have either a Kohler 7000 series or a Kawasaki engine. I was hoping someone could share their experiences with these engines, good or/especially bad. Should I be wary of either type engine. TIA
I'm shopping for a new ZTR. I have narrowed my search down to 2 machines: Kubota and Gravely. The models I am interested in have either a Kohler 7000 series or a Kawasaki engine. I was hoping someone could share their experiences with these engines, good or/especially bad. Should I be wary of either type engine. TIA
Engine Damage Caused By Ethanol Gasoline!?
I came across this interesting article about Ethanol Gasoline and how it not only damages engines but it can reduce fuel economy? I've been using the wrong fuel for my lawn for years apparently. Phew, WOW. I realize that Ethanol mixed gasoline is supposed to help farmers and according to the US Government be an alternative fuel!? Hmmm that just doesn't seem right. Why do so many things seem backwards here? Expert's thoughts?
Here is common information that I come across...
"Outdoor power equipment engines, including those found in lawnmowers, chainsaws, and string trimmers, are susceptible to corrosion damage caused by E10, or gasoline that contains 10 percent ethanol. E10 is common in most U.S. gas stations. While ethanol has been shown to cause damage to all engines, small engines found in outdoor power equipment run a higher risk of being damaged by ethanol due to less frequent use. To protect your investment, use a fuel stabilizer containing an ethanol treatment with each fill-up. This is an easy and inexpensive way you can protect your small engine from corrosive damage caused from ethanol."
Article that Sparked my interested:
http://ift.tt/1JkCJAH
Here is common information that I come across...
"Outdoor power equipment engines, including those found in lawnmowers, chainsaws, and string trimmers, are susceptible to corrosion damage caused by E10, or gasoline that contains 10 percent ethanol. E10 is common in most U.S. gas stations. While ethanol has been shown to cause damage to all engines, small engines found in outdoor power equipment run a higher risk of being damaged by ethanol due to less frequent use. To protect your investment, use a fuel stabilizer containing an ethanol treatment with each fill-up. This is an easy and inexpensive way you can protect your small engine from corrosive damage caused from ethanol."
Article that Sparked my interested:
http://ift.tt/1JkCJAH
What is the difference between the Scag Advantage Deck and the Velocity+ Deck
I'm just wondering what the difference is. I have not been able to tell the difference on scag.com. Also I was wondering what deck is better for mulching. But if you are not sure in mulching that is fine I'm just interested in the difference between the two.
New SD 60" Left in Driveway
Hi, Bought a new Raptor SD60" Wed.night at local BBS after my nearest dealer told me he was no longer a Hustler dealer. Said he could not compete with the BBS. This bothered me because I had a good relationship and bought other things from him over the years. I waited too long to buy my first ZTR from him !
So I specified an after 12 delivery Fri. and was called at 10am by the BBS delivery guy. My mower was delivered! Got home and there it was with price tag still on it,no gas and low on hyd. system oil [20w50], forklift tracks all over, books and 1 key under seat.It gets better?key barely fits in slot,43.7 hours are showing on meter, but machine paint still is perfect. Ok.. machine sat at big store and somebody used screwdriver/pocket knife and maybe got switch turned to ON ?Starting is kinda iffy. Called BBS driver..did machine run alright. "Yeah,man! My Bossman had it going ,ran grrrreat! Problem? Uh, call 1-800 number on tag under the seat,Man!!
Well. sorry this is long. But Hustler Co. in Hesston ,Ks does indeed answer their phone and help is on the way from a BiG Dog dealer! in another town ..on Monday.. This may work out and its too wet to mow anyway.. Stay tuned.
So I specified an after 12 delivery Fri. and was called at 10am by the BBS delivery guy. My mower was delivered! Got home and there it was with price tag still on it,no gas and low on hyd. system oil [20w50], forklift tracks all over, books and 1 key under seat.It gets better?key barely fits in slot,43.7 hours are showing on meter, but machine paint still is perfect. Ok.. machine sat at big store and somebody used screwdriver/pocket knife and maybe got switch turned to ON ?Starting is kinda iffy. Called BBS driver..did machine run alright. "Yeah,man! My Bossman had it going ,ran grrrreat! Problem? Uh, call 1-800 number on tag under the seat,Man!!
Well. sorry this is long. But Hustler Co. in Hesston ,Ks does indeed answer their phone and help is on the way from a BiG Dog dealer! in another town ..on Monday.. This may work out and its too wet to mow anyway.. Stay tuned.
Just bought a TimeCutter SS 4235 with bagger - what do I need to know?
This is a like-new 2-year-old mower and my first skidsteer/zero turn. I know I'm going to have to practice a bit in the north forty before I start the close trimming around the wife's flower beds.
What about steep slopes? I was able to mow them with my Cub Cadet 2135, which wasn't a particularly stable machine. The Toro Operator's Manual says "YOU'LL DIE!" but does anyone have any tips about mowing slopes greater than 15-degrees? A mower which won't tackle more than that is pretty useless. So up, down, or sideways?
What do I need to know about potential failure modes and preventative maintenance?
jack vines
What about steep slopes? I was able to mow them with my Cub Cadet 2135, which wasn't a particularly stable machine. The Toro Operator's Manual says "YOU'LL DIE!" but does anyone have any tips about mowing slopes greater than 15-degrees? A mower which won't tackle more than that is pretty useless. So up, down, or sideways?
What do I need to know about potential failure modes and preventative maintenance?
jack vines
Toro, B&S 190cc, White Smoke and oil coming out of the exhaust
ok, so i go out side this evening to cut the grass, i have a Toro Recycler self propelled with a Briggs & Stratton 190cc engine. I started the mower and as soon as i did i noticed white smoke coming out of the front exhaust, thought nothing of it, then within 15 seconds and about 20 feet of cutting i was engulfed with a lot of white smoke, so i stopped the mower and noticed oil on the top of the cutting deck just below the exhaust. So i stopped and put it up for the night to come in and research what is going on. Any ideas out there? Thanks
Problems switching from bagging to not bagging
Have a new puppy that likes to eat grass so wife got me to buy a bagger for my JD D110 rider. It came with the high lift blades and works great. That's not the problem, the problem is I only want to bag only about 1/2 the lawn in my fenced in backyard and my front lawn. I mow another 1/2 acre that does not need bagging. Tried putting on my mulching hood but the mower just seems to bunch up the grass as I do not think the high lift blade mulch very well. Tried putting regular chute back on but then I cannot get bagger pipe to fit. Ran without the chute today but that is not very safe. Any suggestions as to a fix for my predicament.
John Deere X300 Mowing pattern
I have a John Deere X300 lawnmower. I have the deck set at the highest setting. It Has been leveled. When I cut it digs into the ground. I attached some photos. Any ideas what might be going on?
FD590V won't stay running - needs lots of choke to restart
John Deere 345 (1998) with a Kawasaki FD590V engine (800 hours)
I am the original owner and have always maintained this tractor as per the standard maintenance schedule.
I'm having an intermittent issue and I need to know how to conclusively check whether I have a bad carburetor, or something else like a weak fuel pump.
During mowing only, whether the tractor is under load or not, it sputters out and dies. Then it takes constant choking to get it started again. It has to run a bit while choked before it stays running. Then it runs normal for a few minutes and then dies again. It's like the fuel is temporarily shut off somehow and it only runs until the fuel in the bowl is consumed.
I've had the carb apart and it always seems to run better after this, but within a couple hours the problem returns. There is a new air filter, carb gaskets, fuel filter is not clogged, and there seems to be adequate fuel pressure and flow. The carb has been cleaned and the float adjusted to factory spec; and it runs great in the garage. I've adjusted the throttle and choke plate to factory spec. I only have this issue while mowing but it's not related to load. I can bog in down in thick grass and it runs fine... then later in easy grass, it just sputters out.
I also have a possibly related issue where I cannot shut off the tractor without popping and backfiring. I can't even throttle it down without backfiring. Even if I throttle down very slowly, I still get backfiring and popping.
This video shows the problem as it's happening. You can see how I need to keep choking it before it stays running. Then I can resume cutting for a minutes longer.
https://youtu.be/dljnTozdBMc
I need suggestions and advice before throwing any parts at it. I'm thinking it needs a new carb but not sure... maybe fuel pump?
Thank-you for any suggestions!
I am the original owner and have always maintained this tractor as per the standard maintenance schedule.
I'm having an intermittent issue and I need to know how to conclusively check whether I have a bad carburetor, or something else like a weak fuel pump.
During mowing only, whether the tractor is under load or not, it sputters out and dies. Then it takes constant choking to get it started again. It has to run a bit while choked before it stays running. Then it runs normal for a few minutes and then dies again. It's like the fuel is temporarily shut off somehow and it only runs until the fuel in the bowl is consumed.
I've had the carb apart and it always seems to run better after this, but within a couple hours the problem returns. There is a new air filter, carb gaskets, fuel filter is not clogged, and there seems to be adequate fuel pressure and flow. The carb has been cleaned and the float adjusted to factory spec; and it runs great in the garage. I've adjusted the throttle and choke plate to factory spec. I only have this issue while mowing but it's not related to load. I can bog in down in thick grass and it runs fine... then later in easy grass, it just sputters out.
I also have a possibly related issue where I cannot shut off the tractor without popping and backfiring. I can't even throttle it down without backfiring. Even if I throttle down very slowly, I still get backfiring and popping.
This video shows the problem as it's happening. You can see how I need to keep choking it before it stays running. Then I can resume cutting for a minutes longer.
https://youtu.be/dljnTozdBMc
I need suggestions and advice before throwing any parts at it. I'm thinking it needs a new carb but not sure... maybe fuel pump?
Thank-you for any suggestions!
Scag vs Hustler vs Snapper Pro
My other threads were starting to get cluttered up so starting a new one. I have narrowed down my list to a 12' Scag Tiger Cat with 61" deck and 600 hrs, a 13' Hustler X One with 60" deck and 620 hrs and a 12' Snapper Pro S200 with 61" deck and 75 hrs. All 3 have Kawasaki FX730 engine. All right at same price. What do you guys think? I like all 3. Only bonus factor is Scag and Hustler have suspension seats but the Snapper doesn't. I like the Turf Tiger mentioned in my other 2 posts, but with 1500 hrs I think one of the above 3 would be better choice.
Gravely ZT vs Ariens Zoom 42''
Hey guys,
I have a Kubota 6100E that spit the bit again, it's a great tractor but the local service center charges over a thousand dollars each time it needs even the smallest repair because it's "imported" parts. Anyway, I would like to buy a ZTR mower and have it narrowed in my price range between the Gravely 42'' and the Ariens 42'' both get rave reviews but I wanted to know if anyone knows which would be better for my 2 acre lawn with lots of trees?
I would love the Gravely, but the Ariens has a better price point too. I talked to the Ariens chat support and they even said I should go with the Gravely. I don't know what to do, I'd like to stay at 2,500 for the mower because then the payments would be like 50 dollars a month. Does anyone have an Ariens 42''?
What's the differences? Any advice would be most welcomed.
Leigh
I have a Kubota 6100E that spit the bit again, it's a great tractor but the local service center charges over a thousand dollars each time it needs even the smallest repair because it's "imported" parts. Anyway, I would like to buy a ZTR mower and have it narrowed in my price range between the Gravely 42'' and the Ariens 42'' both get rave reviews but I wanted to know if anyone knows which would be better for my 2 acre lawn with lots of trees?
I would love the Gravely, but the Ariens has a better price point too. I talked to the Ariens chat support and they even said I should go with the Gravely. I don't know what to do, I'd like to stay at 2,500 for the mower because then the payments would be like 50 dollars a month. Does anyone have an Ariens 42''?
What's the differences? Any advice would be most welcomed.
Leigh
Toro Timemaster 30" keeps stalling
Hello,
I purchased a new 30" Timemaster a couple of months ago and after about 35-40 minutes it just dies. It has done this every week since I got it.
It's usually low on gas, but not empty. I've had Toros in the past and they sputter before running out of gas and I was able to see the bottom of the gas tank. The Timemaster just dies without warning and there is enough gas in the tank to cover the bottom of the tank. I thought that maybe the Timemaster just can't be run down that low on fuel because It usually starts back up and runs when I fill it up again. The last time it died on me I let it sit for about 5-10 minutes without adding gas and then it started working again.
Any ideas?
Seems like it is getting too hot for some reason and needs to cool down before running again.
I purchased a new 30" Timemaster a couple of months ago and after about 35-40 minutes it just dies. It has done this every week since I got it.
It's usually low on gas, but not empty. I've had Toros in the past and they sputter before running out of gas and I was able to see the bottom of the gas tank. The Timemaster just dies without warning and there is enough gas in the tank to cover the bottom of the tank. I thought that maybe the Timemaster just can't be run down that low on fuel because It usually starts back up and runs when I fill it up again. The last time it died on me I let it sit for about 5-10 minutes without adding gas and then it started working again.
Any ideas?
Seems like it is getting too hot for some reason and needs to cool down before running again.
Scag vs. eXmark
I'm looking to buy a new ztr but am not sure whether to go with an eXmark e or s series or one of the scag ztr. I have heard great things about both but wanted to know what you guys thought about them. Any info/ reasons to go with one or the other would be great. Thank you
John deere js63
I recently bought a used js63. Used it once and LOVED it, mostly because I'd spent 6 weeks prior with a craftsman with broken self propelled. Today, second time, tried starting and entire pull cord snaps out. I replace using a YouTube video as a guide and fire that puppy up and I'm feeling like a beast and so proud of my skills. 6 rows left of front yard and the thing starts a funky rattling and then craps out on me and begins smoking....wtf. I'm thinking I've ignited the new pull cord but can't tell because now I can't get it to pull at all. Any ideas? And yes I am new and a woman and this blows:(((
How Does a New Member get Guidence?
I posted a message in this forum to Catherine asking for
help with ignoring a humbug poster (Ric), leading to how to
ignore other posters and whole threads.
I have also PM'd Mohammed asking how to block threads
and mark forums "read".
No response, yet I read Mohammed as posting he (?) is onsite
every day...!
Today I find my first post to the forum has been moved - somewhere.
No response from Catherine.
---see pix attached
My request is very simple.
How do I ignore a poster who 'tells' me to ignore
them when Admin does not allow me to add them
to my "edit ignore" list?
Like, this "regular" is humping near on every post I make!
Some clarity on "fair play" please...anybody.
Yeuuup..it is quite clear "Catherine" is a welcome bot,,
yet someone with server rights (and a brain) has to read this
forum, occassionly?
My humping buddy aside, who obviously has r00t rights:-/
Yeh, Ric... Yer aint so clever in hiding yer tracks.
If it is the case you own or have a financial interest in
this box (LMF) then delete my account now along with all posts
I have made, not just those you don't want in the public domain.
Life is too short to be bothered with feeding your klooless ego.
Help or out, please.
help with ignoring a humbug poster (Ric), leading to how to
ignore other posters and whole threads.
I have also PM'd Mohammed asking how to block threads
and mark forums "read".
No response, yet I read Mohammed as posting he (?) is onsite
every day...!
Today I find my first post to the forum has been moved - somewhere.
No response from Catherine.
---see pix attached
My request is very simple.
How do I ignore a poster who 'tells' me to ignore
them when Admin does not allow me to add them
to my "edit ignore" list?
Like, this "regular" is humping near on every post I make!
Some clarity on "fair play" please...anybody.
Yeuuup..it is quite clear "Catherine" is a welcome bot,,
yet someone with server rights (and a brain) has to read this
forum, occassionly?
My humping buddy aside, who obviously has r00t rights:-/
Yeh, Ric... Yer aint so clever in hiding yer tracks.
If it is the case you own or have a financial interest in
this box (LMF) then delete my account now along with all posts
I have made, not just those you don't want in the public domain.
Life is too short to be bothered with feeding your klooless ego.
Help or out, please.
Chattering while under power
Today, I noticed upon acceleration of either side at low idle caused a chattering sound and while watching either tire they seemed to be kind of jerky. I throttled up to WOT, and I could still hear it but not as bad. Any advise would be appreciated.
Changing blades on pioneer s series 60" cut
Hell,Im about to change the blades on my pioneer s series mower and was wondering how many ft lbs of torque a lot of you are using on the blades?I know the owners manual calls for 50-60 ft lbs of torque,but I would like some opinions to see if this is enough torque.I will be changing from high lift notched blades to low lift blades because of the grass and sand here in Florida.Any info would be greatly appreciated!
Toro mower 6.0 HP OHV from 1996 leaking oil.
As the title says, B&S 6.0HP OHV from 1996. This engine started leaking last fall. It looks like the oil is coming from where the cylinder meets the crankcase. It leaks out about 3/4 of a quart in about an hour's running and then letting the mower sit overnight. A local mechanic said it was just a gasket and recommended not fixing it since he said it sounds like the connecting rod is failing too. I had noticed an occasional rattling noise which is what I'm guessing he things is the connecting rod failing. Anyway other than the parts diagram I have no guide for disassembling/assembling the engine. Is there anything I need to know so I don't screw something up? I assume I can just separate the sump from the crank case and inspect the connecting rod?
Tuff Torq K71 Gearbox Oil Fill Level Problem?
Hi everyone,
I have a British made Countax diesel D18/50 fitted with a hydrostatic Tuff Torq K71 transmission. It also has power steering which runs from the gearbox. I have changed the oil however I haven't put the amount in which is suggested in the manual. It states it should have 4.0 litres of 10w40 oil however I have only managed to put 3 litres in. The oil was overflowing out of the filler cap so I started the engine and got the oil circulating through the power steering. I have rechecked the oil and it has gone down a small amount. There is no oil in the reservoir which sits above the transmission so I am unsure of what to do because surely if I put more oil in the resevoir it will overflow out the lower filler cap? I really don't want to over fill it and blow a seal. Please can someone shed some light on this situation as I have been left scratching my head. Also just for arguments sake I did fully empty the original oil from the unit, it was totally empty before I filled it up with new oil.
Thanks in advance,
George.
Here is the manual I was using http://ift.tt/1OqFtfe
I have a British made Countax diesel D18/50 fitted with a hydrostatic Tuff Torq K71 transmission. It also has power steering which runs from the gearbox. I have changed the oil however I haven't put the amount in which is suggested in the manual. It states it should have 4.0 litres of 10w40 oil however I have only managed to put 3 litres in. The oil was overflowing out of the filler cap so I started the engine and got the oil circulating through the power steering. I have rechecked the oil and it has gone down a small amount. There is no oil in the reservoir which sits above the transmission so I am unsure of what to do because surely if I put more oil in the resevoir it will overflow out the lower filler cap? I really don't want to over fill it and blow a seal. Please can someone shed some light on this situation as I have been left scratching my head. Also just for arguments sake I did fully empty the original oil from the unit, it was totally empty before I filled it up with new oil.
Thanks in advance,
George.
Here is the manual I was using http://ift.tt/1OqFtfe
Craftsman won't die!!!!!!
I have a Craftsman with a CV15S engine and I pulled it in the garage and raised it up and sharpened the blades. When I let it down it would not run; it would turn over but it wasn't getting any fire to the spark plug. When I took the kill wire loose from the coil to test the coil THEN the engine would crank and run. The mower wouldn't turn off with the key; I had to hook the kill wire back up to kill it. I'm looking for any solutions because I'm stumped!!!!!!!!
John Deere D 105 Automatic Transmission
Mower transmission belt broke. After I replaced it the mower would not shift from reverse to neutral or if I got it in forward it would not shift back to neutral.
Howdy from a new member from N. Virginia
Howdy all. Found this great forum while searching for hot fuses on a Skag zero turn. I buy, repair and resell many types of lawn care equipment as a hobby and a little extra cash. Yup I admit it, I'm a lawn mower flipper LOL. :laughing: Looking forward to posting here and hopefully I can be of help.
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jeudi 23 juillet 2015
John deere js63
I recently bought a used js63. Used it once and LOVED it, mostly because I'd spent 6 weeks prior with a craftsman with broken self propelled. Today, second time, tried starting and entire pull cord snaps out. I replace using a YouTube video as a guide and fire that puppy up and I'm feeling like a beast and so proud of my skills. 6 rows left of front yard and the thing starts a funky rattling and then craps out on me and begins smoking....wtf. I'm thinking I've ignited the new pull cord but can't tell because now I can't get it to pull at all. Any ideas? And yes I am new and a woman and this blows:(((
Blades wont engage
I have a 2010 Hustler SuperZ 31 hp 60'' cut. Getting power to the clutch. Replaced clutch, pto switch checked all the fuses and relays and safety switches. Blades still wont engage. Any ideas?
Is this causing surging issue
Hi, mower is surging so I check fuel line, filters and plug. Opened the back cover and noticed the belt is really loose. In fact the entire unit is easy to move by hand. Is this correct or how is it to be. Appreciate the guidance on finding a fix. 5 hp 4 stroke Briggs, self propelled 14SZ.
John Deere L120 won't rev up
Hey, need advice on this....about ready to throw in towel.
Have a John Deere l120 thats about 7 years old. Has a CV23 Kohler engine 23 HP. Couple of weeks back, it started running very rich and has gotten to where it will crank but will only run at idle and when u rev engine up it will choke out....u can tell it is running extremely rich even with choke off. Below are the things I have done to try to fix but with no luck.
Cleaned carb three times(including the solenoid valve....not a speck of dirt/varnish in it....no effect
tried adjusting carb....turning the mix screw has no effect at all on the engine
removed air filter and tested running with no air filter...no effect
replaced fuel filter, also bypassed filter with no effect
cleaned spark plugs
checked gap on valves
checked to make sure it was getting gas from fuel pump....no issue there
as a last ditch effort, i took a cab from a 78 model john deere 110 and retrofitted it to my l120. mower cranked right up but with same issue, will not rev up.
Any new direction will be much appreciated. out of things to check.
Have a John Deere l120 thats about 7 years old. Has a CV23 Kohler engine 23 HP. Couple of weeks back, it started running very rich and has gotten to where it will crank but will only run at idle and when u rev engine up it will choke out....u can tell it is running extremely rich even with choke off. Below are the things I have done to try to fix but with no luck.
Cleaned carb three times(including the solenoid valve....not a speck of dirt/varnish in it....no effect
tried adjusting carb....turning the mix screw has no effect at all on the engine
removed air filter and tested running with no air filter...no effect
replaced fuel filter, also bypassed filter with no effect
cleaned spark plugs
checked gap on valves
checked to make sure it was getting gas from fuel pump....no issue there
as a last ditch effort, i took a cab from a 78 model john deere 110 and retrofitted it to my l120. mower cranked right up but with same issue, will not rev up.
Any new direction will be much appreciated. out of things to check.
Looking for 22261
Am new to the site, am looking for a 22261 in any condition preferably for restoration.
Kohler PH-XT149-0225 engine on Lawnboy mower will not start
I have a Lawnboy mower that's 3 years old but has only been used 4 times. It was stored with old gas in it. I added fresh gas and gas treatment and was able to use it twice, several weeks ago. Now it won't start. Today, I cleaned the carburetor, bought a new spark plug, drained the gas tank and added fuel stabilizer to fresh gas. It still won't start. What should I do next?
18hp starts, runs 2-5 min, dies, restarts, over & over
Craftsman riding mower, B&S 18hp Intek. No fuel pump. ABout 11 years old. I bought it new and it has given me zero problems up to now. Well-maintained throughout its life. While mowing a few days ago, it just sputtered and died. Would restart and sputter for a few seconds and die. At that time, I pulled the gas line off the carb and gas was flowing. Hooked it back up and it started, ran a couple minutes, die. Would restart and sputter. Then would restart and run a minute or two. Then restart and sputter. etc. It seemed if I removed the gas line and then hooked it back up that it would run longer. But maybe one time out of ten. Removed the carb and sprayed it all out and reinstalled. Changed the air filter and fuel filter. SAme results as before. Gave up and read some forums.
Each morning, I would go out and start it. it would run 2-5 minutes, then sputter & die. Then restart & sputter & die. I tried this both with the gas cap on and gas cap off. Also with the gas cap partially on. No difference. If it sat overnight, it would do the same thing the next morning. STart, run 2-5 minutes, restart, sputter, die, restart, sputter, die. Gave up and read some more forums.
So this morning, I took the carb back off, cleaned out every orifice with a small wire, Sprayed carb cleaner in every orifice. Even sprayed WD-40 in them (because it had a thin tube so I could get more pressure) then followed up with more carb cleaner. Got good spray out the other side of the holes, cleaned and sprayed the carb inside and out within an inch of its life. ABout a half of a can of carb cleaner used. Checked the solenoid on the bottom of the carb bowl. It activates when the key is turned on. Put carb back on and......no change from previous days, other than it now would have to sit a shorter amount of time in order to restart - hour or so vs. overnight. Ugh. Replaced the spark plug. And now its getting a little better. (old plug was light brown & looked fine, but I replaced anyway) It will now start, run for 2-5 minutes, sputter & die, restart immediately, run 2-5 minutes, sputter & die, repeat. I repeated this cycle five times. One time with gas cap on, one time off, one time with the idle mixture adjustment screw turned to the left, one time with it turned to the right (there is a limiter so it will only turn 1/2 turn in either direction), then one more time with it in the middle. No change. It always starts right back up immediately now after sputtering & dying. Sometimes if I pump the speed control from "mow" to "choke", I can coax it to run sputteringly 15-30 seconds longer. Gas level at any time in the clear fuel filter is about 1/3 whether sitting, running, or having recently died.
This is making me nuts. Help!
Each morning, I would go out and start it. it would run 2-5 minutes, then sputter & die. Then restart & sputter & die. I tried this both with the gas cap on and gas cap off. Also with the gas cap partially on. No difference. If it sat overnight, it would do the same thing the next morning. STart, run 2-5 minutes, restart, sputter, die, restart, sputter, die. Gave up and read some more forums.
So this morning, I took the carb back off, cleaned out every orifice with a small wire, Sprayed carb cleaner in every orifice. Even sprayed WD-40 in them (because it had a thin tube so I could get more pressure) then followed up with more carb cleaner. Got good spray out the other side of the holes, cleaned and sprayed the carb inside and out within an inch of its life. ABout a half of a can of carb cleaner used. Checked the solenoid on the bottom of the carb bowl. It activates when the key is turned on. Put carb back on and......no change from previous days, other than it now would have to sit a shorter amount of time in order to restart - hour or so vs. overnight. Ugh. Replaced the spark plug. And now its getting a little better. (old plug was light brown & looked fine, but I replaced anyway) It will now start, run for 2-5 minutes, sputter & die, restart immediately, run 2-5 minutes, sputter & die, repeat. I repeated this cycle five times. One time with gas cap on, one time off, one time with the idle mixture adjustment screw turned to the left, one time with it turned to the right (there is a limiter so it will only turn 1/2 turn in either direction), then one more time with it in the middle. No change. It always starts right back up immediately now after sputtering & dying. Sometimes if I pump the speed control from "mow" to "choke", I can coax it to run sputteringly 15-30 seconds longer. Gas level at any time in the clear fuel filter is about 1/3 whether sitting, running, or having recently died.
This is making me nuts. Help!
Safety First-Always
I've been reading posts today concerning accidental deaths & close calls. I'm glad these posts have been written & brought to our attention. We sure do take a lot of things for granted. I, being in my 60's, have been trying to learn how to slow down, it's not easy when your mind says yes you can but your body says no you shouldn't. I try to double check everything when loading & unloading mower, just making sure everything is secure, & while mowing etc. I would like to add a safety issue concerning re-fueling. Before re-fueling mower, weed eater, chainsaw, etc. let engine cool down for 10-15 minutes before doing so, preferably in the shade. Gasoline & a hot engine are a dangerous mix. A number of years ago I had a backpack blower catch fire because I did not give it time to cool down, I was in a hurry to finish job. Thankfully no one was hurt & was able to put fire out, blower was shot at 10 years old.
Troy built push mower won't start
I have a troy built 7.75, 175 cc 21" xp push mower that won't fire. Model # 11P02-0693-B1 Briggs engine. When I pull starter cord it seems to backfire a bit out carb but does not really ever catch to start. Here is what I have done. I put a brand new carb on after several attempts to clean old one. Looks like carb was not issue. New spark plug and it has a good visual spark. Pulled flywheel and put in a new key. Old one looked good. I do not have a compression tester, but compression feels good just at the pull cord. Not sure what to attack next. Any ideas? Thought about checking valve clearance. Never done this before, but does not seem to difficult.
Also checked little black wire for kill to magneto. Wire looks good. Tried to start with this wire connected and disconnected - no difference.
Also checked little black wire for kill to magneto. Wire looks good. Tried to start with this wire connected and disconnected - no difference.
Where is this tube suppose to go?
I noticed a small amount of gas leaking from the end of this tube... Is this tube suppose to be connected to something? The engine starts....
This is a Briggs and Stratton Vanguard 18hp motor on a Simplicity Regent.
IMG_0853 (1).JPG
I did see something on the carburetor that looked like it should fit to (see arrow) ...but when I tried to start the engine, gas was from out of the carb into the air filter area (engine didn't start..)
IMG_0861.JPG
I'm a real novice when it comes to engines, so that's for any help you can offer!
This is a Briggs and Stratton Vanguard 18hp motor on a Simplicity Regent.
IMG_0853 (1).JPG
I did see something on the carburetor that looked like it should fit to (see arrow) ...but when I tried to start the engine, gas was from out of the carb into the air filter area (engine didn't start..)
IMG_0861.JPG
I'm a real novice when it comes to engines, so that's for any help you can offer!
Repairs Electrical issue Lt160
Tractor stopped running mid operation, would not restart, seemed like battery was dead. It would jump start & run for a very short period of time till it would die again. What would be anybody's best idea as to which component may have went belly up, Battery? Regulator? Is there a generator or alternator involved?
honda 3013 deck compatability
Does anyone know if a honda 3013 and 3011 mower decks are interchangable?
Cub Cadet LTX 1050 won,t charge battery,quit running
I have a 2010 Cub Cadet LTX 1050 with the Kawasaki FR651V-ASO8 motor that quit running.It worked fine when I put it in storage last fall,but when I started it up this summer the electric pto clutch was making grinding noise and battery wouldn't charge.Replaced pto clutch,stator, regulator,battery,checked the fuse.The key safety switch,used when backing up during mowing, still doesn't work,you can back up while mowing and it won't shut deck off.Been charging battery and mowing yard while trying to figure out the problem.Now the tractor just quit in middle of mowing and won't start.Has spark and gas to carb.Any help with these issues?
AYP Western Auto Wizard - Deck Problems
Nearly finished with my new toy: 1993 Western Auto Wizard. Replaced spindles & idlers on the deck but every time I engage the blade it kills the motor. Any ideas?
Carburetor Flooding
I have 2014 Exmark with a 21.5 hp kasakasi engine. Engine has ninety hours on it. Last week carb started flooding. Dealer told me that fuel contamination was the problem. My issue is that the dealer diagnosed this problem without taking carb apart. Repair cost will be $225.00! We are talking about a Lawn mower carb!! I asked about the needle or float being defective and they again stated that it is fuel contamination. I checked the fuel filter and it was not dirty or no water but again I was told that the carb was contaminated and they have not removed the carb to inspect. This Exmark is under warranty. Any thoughts?
mercredi 22 juillet 2015
What height do I mow my bermudagrass?
I've read that I should mow it 1.5-2", but it seems like every time I mow it under 3" my grass gets burned. I water my grass twice a week for a total of 1". Am I doing something wrong?
Raptor SD versus metal rod
was mowing a field today and ran over a copper rod that was laying on ground. it got caught up in the blades and stalled the machine. luckily i was able to wiggle it out, and no damage to machine. even the blades didnt look hurt. those oregon blades are real tough.
difference between 2014 & 2015 model zee2
I bought a new one today thinking I was getting the 2015 model since it is JULY and got home and the manual says its a 2014 model? I wonder if that is the reason he left the manuals zip tied under the machine? Thanks
New mower choice to make Kohler or Kawasaki engine?
Hello, looking to purchase a Lazer Z X series with a 60" deck.
Mow about 20 acres, private, not a commercial purchase.
Hilly with some pretty rough areas.
Should I go with the Kohler or the Kawasaki engine?
Pros or cons to either?
Thanks,
John
Mow about 20 acres, private, not a commercial purchase.
Hilly with some pretty rough areas.
Should I go with the Kohler or the Kawasaki engine?
Pros or cons to either?
Thanks,
John
Walk behind Electric Start
Is there a way to put an electric start on a 1994 Lawnboy Gold Series Model 10515?
Walk behind Lawnboy starter rope repair
How long does recoil starter rope need to be for a Lawnboy Gold series model 10515
zero turn for sloping land
I've been told that a zero turn with steering wheel is the best mower for sloping land. A neighbors lawn service owner has commercial grade cub cadets, but says that if Toro made a commercial zero turn with wheel, he would buy it in a heart beat. His cubs are in the shop quite often. I have a 15 year old cub lawn tractor, 42" that has served me well, but is not enough for my 6 acres of mowing, much of it on a gentle slope. S o the question is: would the Toro homeowner grade work well for me or would I be better off with a commercial cub. I can't see beating my machine up like a business owner would.
deck belt engagement issues Craftsman lt2000 46"
how loose should the deck belt be prior to engagement? unable to engage belt.
new member asking for help with...
Catherine,, how do I get this poster onto my ignore list?
-- see pix attached
Be very clear I am pointing to displayed posts to any forum, not PM
'services'. I have confirmed that pipe is open for that poster.
I find the poster's comments unhelpful, misguided, heavily biased and
often gratingly offensive. I myself would choose not to interact in any
way with the person. Are you able to help in facilitating that outcome?
Thank you.
-- see pix attached
Be very clear I am pointing to displayed posts to any forum, not PM
'services'. I have confirmed that pipe is open for that poster.
I find the poster's comments unhelpful, misguided, heavily biased and
often gratingly offensive. I myself would choose not to interact in any
way with the person. Are you able to help in facilitating that outcome?
Thank you.
Echo 280 problems
Bought a 280 last summer. It ran great for a while but then got to a point that it just bogged and would not rev up. I took it back to the dealer. They replaced the carburetor two different times. They worked on it numerous times. It would run great for a short time then go back to doing the same thing. Finally the dealer gave me a brand new one. Yesterday the one he gave me started doing the exact same thing.
Do any of you know of anybody else having this problem with a 280?
Do any of you know of anybody else having this problem with a 280?
oil changing
Want to change oil in engine & the transmission on John Deere 332. I don't have a manual. I was wanting to know what you have to do to change the transmission oil. There is supposed to be a filter, and how to get to it? Also, the engine has a filter where is it located? Do you have to do anything special after adding the oil back in the transmission? Can you supply the numbers for the transmission, engine and the air filter for the 332?
Thanks!!
Thanks!!
LESCO Kawasaki FB460V Boiling Oil
I have a Lesco 48" walk behind with a Kawasaki FB460V engine. Engine runs fine for about 10 minutes, then the engine just loses power, starts smoking, and then oil comes out of the dipstick tube. I thought I was getting fuel in the crank case, so I drained the oil, and the oil comes out like water boiling in the pan. Once it cools, it looks like oil again, so I don't think it's gas in teh engine. I also have a 1967 Deere 112, more as a toy than anything, but I started cutting with it and it did the exact same thing. 10 minutes runs fine, then smoke, then oil boiling out of it.
What have a broken in these things?
Thanks.
What have a broken in these things?
Thanks.
d105 won't shift
we have a john deere D105 and it won't shift into reverse. what needs to be done to it to get it working like it use to?
Ferris IS2500Z
When trying to crank, all I get is whirring sound. All safety switches are in working order. Believe its the starter. When I have tried to "bypass" with a screwdriver on the contacts, a hit or miss proposition. Any thoughts? Seem like an easy replace but want opinions...
Thanks..
Thanks..
Buying Advice Looking for place to buy part #79203, VAC Bagger (42/48") for 2000 Toro 268-h
Hello! Great to be a part of this forum. Recently was given a 2000 Toro 268-H with a 42" mowing deck. It is a great machine! Looking for a vac bagger or regular bagger for it. Contacted Toro and they no longer make the vac bagger. Was looking for advice on where to buy? Thanks for any help you have!
Featherlite leafblower question
I got this Poulan Featherlite leafblower. It's maybe 3 years old. Multispeed throttle. I don't have the model number handy but this should be a general question.
Every now and the engine either slows down or it stalls completely. Like it's running out of fuel. But will restart with no problems.
There are two lines going to the carb. I'm guessing the small hose is the fuel supply and the larger line is the primer line.
I've noticed as the engine is running, I can see air bubbles going through the smaller hose toward the carb. This leads me to believe the stalling/slowing down has something to do with these air bubbles. The tank was pretty much full. I always top off the tank with pure gasoline (non E10) at a 40:1 mixture before using it.
I blew out the vent port in the fuel cap with compressed air in case the tank was building up vacuum. I have not tried it since. I was done blowing off my driveway by that time and was tired from mowing all day.
The only other thing I can think of is the fuel filter at the end of the hose is not exactly at the bottom of the tank but has moved around so at times it's sucking in air.
How in the world would you get to the fuel filter/end of the hose to reposition it?
I guess my main question is should air bubbles being going toward the carb when the engine is running? Is that normal?
Every now and the engine either slows down or it stalls completely. Like it's running out of fuel. But will restart with no problems.
There are two lines going to the carb. I'm guessing the small hose is the fuel supply and the larger line is the primer line.
I've noticed as the engine is running, I can see air bubbles going through the smaller hose toward the carb. This leads me to believe the stalling/slowing down has something to do with these air bubbles. The tank was pretty much full. I always top off the tank with pure gasoline (non E10) at a 40:1 mixture before using it.
I blew out the vent port in the fuel cap with compressed air in case the tank was building up vacuum. I have not tried it since. I was done blowing off my driveway by that time and was tired from mowing all day.
The only other thing I can think of is the fuel filter at the end of the hose is not exactly at the bottom of the tank but has moved around so at times it's sucking in air.
How in the world would you get to the fuel filter/end of the hose to reposition it?
I guess my main question is should air bubbles being going toward the carb when the engine is running? Is that normal?
Hello everyone!
Hello from me also. I am also a new member here and first time posted to gardener forum. Hope to spend good time here!
mardi 21 juillet 2015
tecumseh ohv155 carb problem
I have a tec. ohv155 with carb. #640330a. It would only run by pouring gas in carb. I removed the bowl. With no gas in the bowl the float was not raising the needle off the seat (plastic bowl and float), unless I raise needle by hand. I bought a new complete bowl kit and it does the same. As far as I know there is no float adjustment (although I did try bending it a little, but it flooded and after a while it went back to the original shape) and the float pin is seated properly. What is wrong? Thanks in advance for your help.
PS: The anti-backfire solenoid is working properly, and I also tried removing it - no change.
PS: The anti-backfire solenoid is working properly, and I also tried removing it - no change.
IS3000Z wheel tilt, blade/mulch question
Hey guys, I'm new here...I recently moved form a 1/8 acre lot to a 3-acre lot, and I bought the Ferris IS3000z from the previous homeowner since he didn't need it anymore. Got a great deal on it, its only 400hrs.
Anyway, issue 1: I noticed when looking at it from the back, that the left rear tire is slightly tilted inward at the top....its noticeable because the inner surface of the tire is closer to the frame than the right tire. I thought it might just be a spring adjustment but the frame is perfectly level on both sides, and the grass cut looks fine. Is this actually an issue? I took the wheel off and it doesnt look like this wheel angle can be adjusted. Pics attached.
Issue/question 2: The previous owner had it set up for side-discharge but that makes my lawn look terrible, sometimes looks like hay spread all over the lawn. It has regular-style blades with the "wings" on the back side. I want to make the lawn look cleaner after cutting. I'd rather not bag if I don't have to....what do I have to do to set up this mower for mulching? Is it even worth it? Do I need mulching blades? It seems my deck only has a side-discharge chute without a flap to block it, and the owners manual mentions mulching but doesn't tell you how to set up the mower for it.
Any help here is appreciated!
0721152010.jpg
0721152010a.jpg
0721152011.jpg
Anyway, issue 1: I noticed when looking at it from the back, that the left rear tire is slightly tilted inward at the top....its noticeable because the inner surface of the tire is closer to the frame than the right tire. I thought it might just be a spring adjustment but the frame is perfectly level on both sides, and the grass cut looks fine. Is this actually an issue? I took the wheel off and it doesnt look like this wheel angle can be adjusted. Pics attached.
Issue/question 2: The previous owner had it set up for side-discharge but that makes my lawn look terrible, sometimes looks like hay spread all over the lawn. It has regular-style blades with the "wings" on the back side. I want to make the lawn look cleaner after cutting. I'd rather not bag if I don't have to....what do I have to do to set up this mower for mulching? Is it even worth it? Do I need mulching blades? It seems my deck only has a side-discharge chute without a flap to block it, and the owners manual mentions mulching but doesn't tell you how to set up the mower for it.
Any help here is appreciated!
0721152010.jpg
0721152010a.jpg
0721152011.jpg
2009 is3000 Ferris
This unit has 398 hrs and I have owned it since April. It ran a little ruff and started hard so took it to the dealer for a check up and they recommended a new carb and also change the plugs and all filters and oil. After getting it home and really getting into the mowing season I believe that this thing has a problem. It has a 27 hp Kohler CV740-0009 which seems to be running ok if your on the flat but cannot climb the slightest hill without running out of power completely. In all fairness maybe they aren't capable of 30 degree long slopes. I can't figure out where the power loss is.
HRC215 No Power when Hot and blade engaged
Hey everyone
I have an HRC215 that has been running great for years, until this year. It always starts on the first or second pull, cold or hot, and runs great when the blade is engaged when it is cold. After cutting for about 20 to 30 minutes, the motor seems to labor when the blade is engaged. When stopping the blade, the motor runs great, and if you shut it off when it is hot, it starts right back up without a problem. However when you engage the blade when it is hot, the motor really struggles to bring the RPM's back, and when you start to mow it really slows down. If you let the motor cool down and then restart, you have full power again. I checked the governor linkage, and it is fully engaged when the blade is engaged (it is trying to keep the motor at top RPM). The spark plug looks great (tan colored), and the fuel is fresh, the air cleaner is new as of last year. Not sure what else to look at?
I have an HRC215 that has been running great for years, until this year. It always starts on the first or second pull, cold or hot, and runs great when the blade is engaged when it is cold. After cutting for about 20 to 30 minutes, the motor seems to labor when the blade is engaged. When stopping the blade, the motor runs great, and if you shut it off when it is hot, it starts right back up without a problem. However when you engage the blade when it is hot, the motor really struggles to bring the RPM's back, and when you start to mow it really slows down. If you let the motor cool down and then restart, you have full power again. I checked the governor linkage, and it is fully engaged when the blade is engaged (it is trying to keep the motor at top RPM). The spark plug looks great (tan colored), and the fuel is fresh, the air cleaner is new as of last year. Not sure what else to look at?
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