Having a problem with my hustler fastrak. After mowing for a couple hours a few weeks ago (usually takes 3 hours total) it started backfiring at full throttle with the pto engaged and sounding like it was dying. It sounded fine without the pto engaged. I took it to the local hustler dealer for repairs. When they finally did get it back to me--after a week and a half--they said that they replaced an ignition coil that was preventing the mower from running both cylinders. Made sense. I brought it home and ran it for about 20 minutes before it started doing the same thing again. Took it back for repairs again, and as of last week the answer was, "we don't know what is wrong with it." They also say they can't get the problem to repeat. I think they won't be getting another dime from me again when this is all said and done, but does anyone have a theory of what the problem could be?
mardi 30 juin 2015
Choke linkage question.
I took my carburetor completely off and disconnected both linkages and a breather hose to give It a good clean also removed the float bowl to clean. Got done put everything back together and the choke linkage that attaches to the side of the engine block came off I put It back on but not sure I put It on right. When I engage the choke on the lever the choke engages all the way, but when I turn the choke off the choke flap Inside the carb only open's half way Im not sure If that's normal or not. If I manually move the choke I can open the flap all the way.
Annoying Critters
I finished rebuilding a carb on a stihl and had one or two paper towels left on the roll. Next day I noticed only the roll core there, didn't think much about it. I changed the oil and oil filter in my mower then noticed a little white at the steering shaft. Turns out it was my paper towels shredded into a nest for a mouse and blew it all out with air compressor.
Going to cut grass and noticed a tire was low, no problem shouldn't take but a minute to pump backup. Wrong, I go to pump it up but no air out of the tire inflator. Turns out a dirt dauber built a nest inside of it. Took a lot longer than I bargained for cleaning it out.
Leave me alone critters!
Going to cut grass and noticed a tire was low, no problem shouldn't take but a minute to pump backup. Wrong, I go to pump it up but no air out of the tire inflator. Turns out a dirt dauber built a nest inside of it. Took a lot longer than I bargained for cleaning it out.
Leave me alone critters!
New Blades
I recently purchased some new Gator G6 blades for my Scag mower. My question is, there seems to be a protective coating like a varnish or something on them. Does that have to come off before I install and if so what should I use to take it off? Thanks.
Staggerd deck 10547 dura-force vs square 10590 M-Series
I had both mowers and decided to do a little side by side comparison. Well my plan kind of got shot down by a issue with the M-series. When I removed the carb I noticed that the gasket on the intake on engine was missing. I had another from a walbro carb set up. The 10590 has an oval shape to it but uses the same bolt pattern, I figured that using gasket should not be an issue and will be better than no gasket. Wrong caused a lean condition where motor was popping and would backfire occasionally. I decided to stop mowing with it until I fix with the proper gasket. I have mowed my lawn once (with out a gasket) so I do have some run time with the M.
The M attachment arms are pretty high tech compared to anything else on a push/self propel mower. Very positive feel and easy to adjust the height with the large adjustment nobs. I also like that all the cables are ran in the arms so cables are all hidden. Operating the self propel takes some seat time. To operate the self propel I am used to letting go of the lever completely, with the M you just need to release 4 inches or so while keeping fingers on the top of handle basically not letting lever out of you hand. The self propel does not hit or start as hard as the 10547, maybe that could be an issue with transmission but seems to wait a few counts before it gets to full speed. I believe I read somewhere that the transmission is different than what Lawn-Boy has on the dura-force mowers. The weight is probably the biggest difference and most of that is from the size of the deck made out of magnesium(I believe). Also using it to bag you will get an 2 stroke smoke job which I do not mind but I can see most not liking the 2-stroke scent in your clothes after mowing. I have not mulched with the m yet. The cut is better and does create more wind/suction than the staggered deck. How do I know, grass that has been walked on and is laying down the M will do a better job of picking that up into the blade.
The staggered deck is noticeably lighter, I can get around obstacles and turns much quicker than the M series 4 corner deck. I can mulch in 2nd gear of the self propel without a problem. I did use the 10547 without the mulch fan and did not have good results. Without the mulch fan the clipping collect in deck. Mowing with same conditions using the mulch fan there was hardly any clipping left in deck even when the grass was pretty wet.
Plan on doing a video on both mulching to see if there is any noticeable difference. Attachment 26625
The M attachment arms are pretty high tech compared to anything else on a push/self propel mower. Very positive feel and easy to adjust the height with the large adjustment nobs. I also like that all the cables are ran in the arms so cables are all hidden. Operating the self propel takes some seat time. To operate the self propel I am used to letting go of the lever completely, with the M you just need to release 4 inches or so while keeping fingers on the top of handle basically not letting lever out of you hand. The self propel does not hit or start as hard as the 10547, maybe that could be an issue with transmission but seems to wait a few counts before it gets to full speed. I believe I read somewhere that the transmission is different than what Lawn-Boy has on the dura-force mowers. The weight is probably the biggest difference and most of that is from the size of the deck made out of magnesium(I believe). Also using it to bag you will get an 2 stroke smoke job which I do not mind but I can see most not liking the 2-stroke scent in your clothes after mowing. I have not mulched with the m yet. The cut is better and does create more wind/suction than the staggered deck. How do I know, grass that has been walked on and is laying down the M will do a better job of picking that up into the blade.
The staggered deck is noticeably lighter, I can get around obstacles and turns much quicker than the M series 4 corner deck. I can mulch in 2nd gear of the self propel without a problem. I did use the 10547 without the mulch fan and did not have good results. Without the mulch fan the clipping collect in deck. Mowing with same conditions using the mulch fan there was hardly any clipping left in deck even when the grass was pretty wet.
Plan on doing a video on both mulching to see if there is any noticeable difference. Attachment 26625
You tube
I have been looking at some You tube repairs. I have come to the conclusion you can't always believe what is being said as being what the person is doing just doesn't know what they talking about or know what they are doing. I also found they will talk around a repair without doing anything. So when you are getting information off YouTube for your repairs, just beware. I have also seen some very good and helpful information.
Fuel GTH24V52LS Runs wide open 15 minutes acts like starving for Fuel.
My Husk acts like it is starving for fuel after 15 minutes running wide open on uneven terrain. I took it to the dealership where I purchased it, after doing the obvious, spark plugs, air cleaner, oil and filter, gas filter. Mr. Husk ran the mower and it did the running out of gas thing after 15 minutes. Mr. Husk replaced fuel pump, gas cap, Gas filter?? He said the NAPA filter was suspicious and replaced it with Husk filter. Mr. Husk said he blew out the fuel line and it did have some kind of restriction. Mr. Husk ran mower on level ground for 40 minutes and never bogged. I paid bill , took it home started cutting after 15 minutes , you guessed it, yes it started bogging and I had to choke the engine to keep it running to get it back to garage. I called Mr. Husk he said the next step is to pull gas tank, pour fuel into white bucket and look for whatever. I will be doing this today myself. Is there anything else that would make the engine be fuel starved after 15 minutes running wide open on uneven terrain? Thanks for any info.
New problem with steering on 2554 Husky
I have replaced a drag link and the steering post on my 2554 Husky as well as rebuilding the offending wheel (left) and now the front wheels have a slight toe out which causes the wheel to gouge the turf in a tight turn as well as turn tighter on one side than the other. Any ideas as to causes and remedies??? Thanks in advance. Gearjammer
Decision to buy and first impressions, Cheetah 61" with 31HP Kawi
Thanks again to everyone that chimed-in on my thread comparing Ferris and Scag. All of the different opinions have been very useful. I am hoping a good review will provide a little payback for the help!
I spent a bunch of time looking, reading, testing probably more than my other posts would suggest. I looked at 4 brands including Scag, Bobcat, Gravely, and Ferris. To me this is a HUGE amount of $$ and I didn稚 want to make a mistake. I liked some features on all of them, short summary:
Gravely Seemed to be very well built, good value and high HP for $$. Downside for me was handling, obviously just opinion/personal preference. Felt touchy and hard to keep straight lines, maybe just setup. Also wanted more than just suspension seat.
Bobcat very good build like Gravely but better control IMO, no real downside other than very limited on dealers in my area and wanted more than suspension seat.
Ferris I was blown away by the ride! Compared build side by side to Scag Cheetah and just looked like the Ferris wasn稚 quite as HD for farm use. Again, just my opionion. Lots of extra moving parts, thin handles. While shopping, I found factory installed bolts that were loose or missing nuts at 2 different dealers?ome-on Ferris, this is a lot of $$$. That said, if I had a serious back problem I would have gone with the 3200, no question. Prices were very good as well. I did have 2 dealers i trust push me toward Scag, made an impact on me. Very close call for me.
Scag - went with the Cheetah 61 with big block Kawi. Good dealer was big part of this. Had a 61 Tiger Cub previously with zero repairs in 9 years. As one dealer told me, once you own a Scag it is tough to change. I am not brand loyal for equipment but the Cheetah test sold me. Promo unit with 61?27hp Kawi was $1k less, so perhaps I overspent but I didn稚 want to take a chance.
So?ow about the Cheetah with 31HP Kawi. I have put maybe 2 hours on it so I will update this later, first impressions:
Overall quality I am a really picky guy, went through the entire machine at dealer. I love Scagç—´ attention to detail like perfect welds, flawless paint, etc. Time will tell but so far, so good. If there is anything wrong, I will find it and post it.
Cut Very nice upgrade for me. I used a gator style blade on my old advantage deck. V+ deck is very nice, cuts great wet or dry but I am not 100% sold on standard blades. Going to try a set of the Scag gator blades, guessing I will give up some lift for smaller clippings.
Ride I would put the Cheetah suspension a ï½¾ of way between a good suspension seat like that on Gravely and the Ferris independent susp, if that makes sense. You still bounce around a bit after a series of big bumps in a row but the small stuff is gone. The seat is amazing, nicer than my recliner. Still playing around with susp. setting but I could mow all day without the bumps and bruises. Perfect set-up for what I need.
Engine Tried to take all of the opinions on Kawi BB vs Briggs BB into account. Ended-up with a gut decision? had great luck with my last Kawi and dealer thought most of the BB issues were resolved. Several people told me that I didn稚 need the BB, probably true but I hope this is my last mower and I don稚 want to slow down for anything. Mission accomplished, engine is still breaking-in and the power is amazing. Perfect for farm use, can mow at 2/3 throttle and kick it up for field edges, hills, tall weeds, etc. Still figuring out tanks so I can稚 give you exact GPH but doesn稚 seem out of hand.
Thanks again for the help, post any questions and I will do my best to respond.
Guzzler
I spent a bunch of time looking, reading, testing probably more than my other posts would suggest. I looked at 4 brands including Scag, Bobcat, Gravely, and Ferris. To me this is a HUGE amount of $$ and I didn稚 want to make a mistake. I liked some features on all of them, short summary:
Gravely Seemed to be very well built, good value and high HP for $$. Downside for me was handling, obviously just opinion/personal preference. Felt touchy and hard to keep straight lines, maybe just setup. Also wanted more than just suspension seat.
Bobcat very good build like Gravely but better control IMO, no real downside other than very limited on dealers in my area and wanted more than suspension seat.
Ferris I was blown away by the ride! Compared build side by side to Scag Cheetah and just looked like the Ferris wasn稚 quite as HD for farm use. Again, just my opionion. Lots of extra moving parts, thin handles. While shopping, I found factory installed bolts that were loose or missing nuts at 2 different dealers?ome-on Ferris, this is a lot of $$$. That said, if I had a serious back problem I would have gone with the 3200, no question. Prices were very good as well. I did have 2 dealers i trust push me toward Scag, made an impact on me. Very close call for me.
Scag - went with the Cheetah 61 with big block Kawi. Good dealer was big part of this. Had a 61 Tiger Cub previously with zero repairs in 9 years. As one dealer told me, once you own a Scag it is tough to change. I am not brand loyal for equipment but the Cheetah test sold me. Promo unit with 61?27hp Kawi was $1k less, so perhaps I overspent but I didn稚 want to take a chance.
So?ow about the Cheetah with 31HP Kawi. I have put maybe 2 hours on it so I will update this later, first impressions:
Overall quality I am a really picky guy, went through the entire machine at dealer. I love Scagç—´ attention to detail like perfect welds, flawless paint, etc. Time will tell but so far, so good. If there is anything wrong, I will find it and post it.
Cut Very nice upgrade for me. I used a gator style blade on my old advantage deck. V+ deck is very nice, cuts great wet or dry but I am not 100% sold on standard blades. Going to try a set of the Scag gator blades, guessing I will give up some lift for smaller clippings.
Ride I would put the Cheetah suspension a ï½¾ of way between a good suspension seat like that on Gravely and the Ferris independent susp, if that makes sense. You still bounce around a bit after a series of big bumps in a row but the small stuff is gone. The seat is amazing, nicer than my recliner. Still playing around with susp. setting but I could mow all day without the bumps and bruises. Perfect set-up for what I need.
Engine Tried to take all of the opinions on Kawi BB vs Briggs BB into account. Ended-up with a gut decision? had great luck with my last Kawi and dealer thought most of the BB issues were resolved. Several people told me that I didn稚 need the BB, probably true but I hope this is my last mower and I don稚 want to slow down for anything. Mission accomplished, engine is still breaking-in and the power is amazing. Perfect for farm use, can mow at 2/3 throttle and kick it up for field edges, hills, tall weeds, etc. Still figuring out tanks so I can稚 give you exact GPH but doesn稚 seem out of hand.
Thanks again for the help, post any questions and I will do my best to respond.
Guzzler
oil leakage
I have oil leaking from my B&S 22 HP engine. This just suddenly occurred. The engine has 400 hours on it. It looks like it is leaking around the oil filter. I changed the oil and filter thinking maybe a bad filter, but it is still leaking. Does anyone know, what looks like a square head set screw one the engine block, where filter screws on, is for? I was told to try and tighten some bolts to see if that helps. Any advice/help is greatly appreciated.
lundi 29 juin 2015
ST400 Trimmer head falls off
Hello.
I have a B&D ST4000 electric trimmer. Earlier today the entire head assembly fell off onto the ground. The entire section that holds the string to where there is only the metal shaft left on the trimmer. It felt loose so I tore a small strip of cardboard and put it in the female shaft on the head hole (as a spacer) before putting it back on the shaft. Worked for about a minute or so and then became loose again and fell off. Added another cardboard spacer but just kept falling off immediately.
Does anyone know why it would do this and if I can fix it?
Thanks in advance for all answers.
I have a B&D ST4000 electric trimmer. Earlier today the entire head assembly fell off onto the ground. The entire section that holds the string to where there is only the metal shaft left on the trimmer. It felt loose so I tore a small strip of cardboard and put it in the female shaft on the head hole (as a spacer) before putting it back on the shaft. Worked for about a minute or so and then became loose again and fell off. Added another cardboard spacer but just kept falling off immediately.
Does anyone know why it would do this and if I can fix it?
Thanks in advance for all answers.
need help with adding fuel pump to non fuel pump mtor
I have a Husqvarna lgt2654 that had an intek vtwin 26hp engine that has a fuel pump. The plastic drain plug malfunctioned and the oil leaked out and threw a rod through the block. I had a 20hp intek single cylinder that came off a craftsman that was gravity fed. I installed the new engine and drlled a hole in the valve cover to power the fuel pump and its not running very good. The carb seems to be running lean. my main question is does anyone know if the carb that was gravity fed is capable of running with a fuel pump. The engine is Model #31P977-0670-E1. The carb is a nikki 792036. It has a new plug, new air filter, carb has been taken apart and cleaned twice and seafoam treatment in the gas. Im going to check the valve clearance as soon as I find the specs on them.
Are the high end commercial 21's still being built? Future?
Hi everyone,
I have a quick question for those in the know. I was reading an article that was discussing the impending closing of the GA Snapper plant and production would be moved to NY and WI. As the parent company, B&S can do what they want, but will the commercial machines be affected? The article went on to say that they are slimming down their "lower end" products.
With the above in mind, will the commercial units still be produced?
Zack
I have a quick question for those in the know. I was reading an article that was discussing the impending closing of the GA Snapper plant and production would be moved to NY and WI. As the parent company, B&S can do what they want, but will the commercial machines be affected? The article went on to say that they are slimming down their "lower end" products.
With the above in mind, will the commercial units still be produced?
Zack
Bearings went out on 46" deck spindle
Model 46209X0C Lost the bearings on one of the spindles and it burned up the belt before I got it all shut down. Have the jack shaft out of the spindle and it looks like one of the bearings/bushings in locked on the shaft and the large one in the spindle is seized tight. Are the bearing replaceable or is it time for new spindles? Also have any put grease fittings on the spindles to be able to lube them?
Thanks
Tom
Thanks
Tom
John Deere L100 cut deck compatibility
Are there any off brand or other manufacturers that make 42" cut decks that are compatible with the John Deere L100? All the John Deere cut decks are REALLY expensive and I'd rather not spend a boatload of money on a tractor this old.
White rear end issues
Not sure if those would go on the MTD forum or not.
Anyhow, around ten years old and only 86 hours so kinda would like to get it going. It's the 46" triple blade model with the 22hp tecumseh. No model number right at the moment, been outside sweating, in the ac now. You don't need one. LOL.
Anyways I seem to be in brake mode? When you spin the rear tires they go in opposite directions so i'm assuming that's the brake. At any rate when you pull the pin on the rear end for freewheel, it does move the linkage bar on the rear end. But it won't go into free wheel mode. When I depress the brake pedal it moves a linkage bar on the rear end, but unlike the clutch linkage that turns a shaft that goes into the casing, it seems to just be on a stud that merely acts as a swivel point. This linkage doesn't appear to be hooked to anything anywhere. I have to wonder if something is missing? My first inclination was take the rear end off, which i've done on other mowers, but that might not required and would be a lot of extra work if not.
I guess I need to find a diagram of this damn thing somewhere. I just rebuilt my JD and really missed having a backup so i'd like to get this going if I can. Not only that, this mower seems to be built a lot better than the newer style JD that I have. I'm not a mower expert, obviously, but I am mechanical and can see a lot of more thought out and expensive to make parts on the White compared to the JD, it is heavier built.
If you insist on numbers you'll have to wait till later today or tomorrow I can't get up at the moment lol.
Anyhow, around ten years old and only 86 hours so kinda would like to get it going. It's the 46" triple blade model with the 22hp tecumseh. No model number right at the moment, been outside sweating, in the ac now. You don't need one. LOL.
Anyways I seem to be in brake mode? When you spin the rear tires they go in opposite directions so i'm assuming that's the brake. At any rate when you pull the pin on the rear end for freewheel, it does move the linkage bar on the rear end. But it won't go into free wheel mode. When I depress the brake pedal it moves a linkage bar on the rear end, but unlike the clutch linkage that turns a shaft that goes into the casing, it seems to just be on a stud that merely acts as a swivel point. This linkage doesn't appear to be hooked to anything anywhere. I have to wonder if something is missing? My first inclination was take the rear end off, which i've done on other mowers, but that might not required and would be a lot of extra work if not.
I guess I need to find a diagram of this damn thing somewhere. I just rebuilt my JD and really missed having a backup so i'd like to get this going if I can. Not only that, this mower seems to be built a lot better than the newer style JD that I have. I'm not a mower expert, obviously, but I am mechanical and can see a lot of more thought out and expensive to make parts on the White compared to the JD, it is heavier built.
If you insist on numbers you'll have to wait till later today or tomorrow I can't get up at the moment lol.
Toro Timecutter ZTR SS4200 vs SS4225
Hi guys, have been reading the forum a lot lately trying to soak up all the knowledge I can. This forum and you guys are awesome, thank you!
I started out leaning towards a Cub Cadet XT1 LT 46 Lawn Tractor. Then after lots of reading here, I've decided to splurge a lil and go for the Toro Timecutter.
I'm leaning heavily towards the SS4225 because of the Kohler Twin Cylinder engine instead of the SS4200, and it's only about $200 more.
I just bought a new house and the lawn is only a lil larger than 1/3 acre with no hills, and a few trees, flag pole etc, but have I terrible knees so pushing isn't really an option for the whole lawn, trimming and etc is fine.
Any input would be much appreciated, going to try and find one this week.
Thanks!
Dave
I started out leaning towards a Cub Cadet XT1 LT 46 Lawn Tractor. Then after lots of reading here, I've decided to splurge a lil and go for the Toro Timecutter.
I'm leaning heavily towards the SS4225 because of the Kohler Twin Cylinder engine instead of the SS4200, and it's only about $200 more.
I just bought a new house and the lawn is only a lil larger than 1/3 acre with no hills, and a few trees, flag pole etc, but have I terrible knees so pushing isn't really an option for the whole lawn, trimming and etc is fine.
Any input would be much appreciated, going to try and find one this week.
Thanks!
Dave
Introduction
Hello all, I appreciate all the great advice on this blog!!
I have two Craftsman Tractors, DYT4000 21hp v-twin Bob Villa Sig. edition which runs awesome but won't mow. I've replaced deck clutch saf. Switch as well as seat switch but still kills engine when engaging PTO. PTO works just fine when checking with engine off, PTO switch works as it should in wiring diagram. Model # 917.274040.
My second one is a LT1000, 18hp Intek engine threw a rod and I replaced with an older 18.5hp twin II. Works and mows great although it really uses a lot of fuel. I would like to know how the governor should work properly as this engine seems to run slower than last and doesn't rev when under load. Eng mod # is 42A707 Type 1238 01 code 9601245B. Thanks for letting me join!!
I have two Craftsman Tractors, DYT4000 21hp v-twin Bob Villa Sig. edition which runs awesome but won't mow. I've replaced deck clutch saf. Switch as well as seat switch but still kills engine when engaging PTO. PTO works just fine when checking with engine off, PTO switch works as it should in wiring diagram. Model # 917.274040.
My second one is a LT1000, 18hp Intek engine threw a rod and I replaced with an older 18.5hp twin II. Works and mows great although it really uses a lot of fuel. I would like to know how the governor should work properly as this engine seems to run slower than last and doesn't rev when under load. Eng mod # is 42A707 Type 1238 01 code 9601245B. Thanks for letting me join!!
Garden tiller
I have a garden tiller with a 5 hp.Briggs engine it runs alright but when I put the breather on it almost dies out?
Using a push Reel Mower - What I've learned
Hey gents.
I have two powered mowers (in Avatar) but I have also owned a Scott's 20" push reel mower for about 10 years. I try and mow off and on with it from late mid June to until the leaves drop with the Reel mower when I can. Surprisingly, if you set it up correctly and the conditions are right, you reely (pun intended) can do a decent job on lawns that are much larger than your typical small city lot. There are a few things I have learned about them:
1.) Don't let your grass get too tall. The scissors action of the blades will not cut tall grass, or at least, won't cut it well.
2.) Very thick grass may need to be gone over twice to get it under control.
3.) Crabgrass is a bear to cut with a push reel mower. You can cut it, but it's not easy. It feels like the mower is in quicksand.
4.) Twigs are a genuine pain in the butt. A small twig on your lawn seems to find the reels like a homing pigeon and will stop a reel mower faster than you can say "HALT!"
5.) They need very little maintenance. Just a quick cleaning, some grease and blade adjustment once a month or so to make sure all blades are hitting the cutting plate properly.
6.) They do cut in dew or wet grass, but you may not get quite as clean a cut as when on dry grass.
7.) Most weeds will remain behind and will not get cut.
8.) You can avoid wearing any hearing protection, or if you wish, your earbuds and your ipod for tunes while cutting.
9.) Your neighbors will not know you are cutting the lawn, so you can cut in early AM or when they are out back BBQing without bothering anyone.
10.) Some passers-by will stop and say, "Wow, an old fashioned mower. I didn't know that they still making those!"
11.) Trim is a bit of a pain. You have to exercise some patience with cutting around trees and bushes and landscaping. Sometimes you need a bit of "Back and Forth" to get it cut properly.
12.) They do NOT mulch at all, so your clippings just fall behind the mower or on your feet or in a catch bagger. Yet unlike rotary mowers, there is no clumping of grass clippings even with taller grass.
13.) You probably won't miss gassing or changing the oil or hard starting or the vibration of a rotary mower. You will miss the easy trimming or weed cutting.
14.) You have to "Overlap" your mowing rows. Unlike rotary mowers, the blade does not extend beyond the wheels, so you have to do a few inches of overlap on the wheel marks in your lawn. A 20" mower give you about an 18" cut with overlap.
15.) If you are not moving forward, the blades are not spinning, so sometimes you have to get a short running-start before you get to the area you want cut.
I honestly could not do 100 percent without a power mower, especially in the spring or when leaves are dropping, but otherwise, it's quite amazing what you can o with a simple push reel mower. And the gas and oil cost savings is nice. Plus you don't smell like you have been "mowing the lawn" with a gas mower when you come in. You are just sweaty and smell like cut grass. ;)
I only paid about $79 for mine at Home Depot 10 years ago. They have gone up a bit since then. Amazon is selling them for about $135. Since mine has lasted 10 years and still looks and operates like new, that's not a bad deal.
I have two powered mowers (in Avatar) but I have also owned a Scott's 20" push reel mower for about 10 years. I try and mow off and on with it from late mid June to until the leaves drop with the Reel mower when I can. Surprisingly, if you set it up correctly and the conditions are right, you reely (pun intended) can do a decent job on lawns that are much larger than your typical small city lot. There are a few things I have learned about them:
1.) Don't let your grass get too tall. The scissors action of the blades will not cut tall grass, or at least, won't cut it well.
2.) Very thick grass may need to be gone over twice to get it under control.
3.) Crabgrass is a bear to cut with a push reel mower. You can cut it, but it's not easy. It feels like the mower is in quicksand.
4.) Twigs are a genuine pain in the butt. A small twig on your lawn seems to find the reels like a homing pigeon and will stop a reel mower faster than you can say "HALT!"
5.) They need very little maintenance. Just a quick cleaning, some grease and blade adjustment once a month or so to make sure all blades are hitting the cutting plate properly.
6.) They do cut in dew or wet grass, but you may not get quite as clean a cut as when on dry grass.
7.) Most weeds will remain behind and will not get cut.
8.) You can avoid wearing any hearing protection, or if you wish, your earbuds and your ipod for tunes while cutting.
9.) Your neighbors will not know you are cutting the lawn, so you can cut in early AM or when they are out back BBQing without bothering anyone.
10.) Some passers-by will stop and say, "Wow, an old fashioned mower. I didn't know that they still making those!"
11.) Trim is a bit of a pain. You have to exercise some patience with cutting around trees and bushes and landscaping. Sometimes you need a bit of "Back and Forth" to get it cut properly.
12.) They do NOT mulch at all, so your clippings just fall behind the mower or on your feet or in a catch bagger. Yet unlike rotary mowers, there is no clumping of grass clippings even with taller grass.
13.) You probably won't miss gassing or changing the oil or hard starting or the vibration of a rotary mower. You will miss the easy trimming or weed cutting.
14.) You have to "Overlap" your mowing rows. Unlike rotary mowers, the blade does not extend beyond the wheels, so you have to do a few inches of overlap on the wheel marks in your lawn. A 20" mower give you about an 18" cut with overlap.
15.) If you are not moving forward, the blades are not spinning, so sometimes you have to get a short running-start before you get to the area you want cut.
I honestly could not do 100 percent without a power mower, especially in the spring or when leaves are dropping, but otherwise, it's quite amazing what you can o with a simple push reel mower. And the gas and oil cost savings is nice. Plus you don't smell like you have been "mowing the lawn" with a gas mower when you come in. You are just sweaty and smell like cut grass. ;)
I only paid about $79 for mine at Home Depot 10 years ago. They have gone up a bit since then. Amazon is selling them for about $135. Since mine has lasted 10 years and still looks and operates like new, that's not a bad deal.
New to Lawn Care - Looking for advice!
Hey Everyone, I'm new to the lawn care business and I'm currently looking for a commercial zero turn mower. I'm looking to keep my budget around $5K or less. Any suggestions?!
PS: if you're also new to the lawn care business and want to bounce ideas off each other, please PM me.
Thanks everyone!!!
PS: if you're also new to the lawn care business and want to bounce ideas off each other, please PM me.
Thanks everyone!!!
John Deere 14SE speed cable replacement
Help! I'm looking for any information on speed or shift cable replacement on my jd 14se push mower. I can't see the other end of the cable below the deck. I'm not sure where to start.
Thanks
Thanks
HRX2174VKA air cleaner box (17220-ZM0-030)
So either my wife or I must have hit under the edge of the deck and broke the tabs on the air cleaner box that holds the air cleaner cover on.
No big deal, I ordered an $8.99 replacement on ebay. (17220-ZM0-030) It arrived in short order, I think 2 days.
So I remove the 2 long bolts that hold it all together. (The box, and the carb)
This is where you need to be careful, as everything kind of just falls if you're not holding it when you pull the bolts. I disconnected the air line form the broken box, installed the new air box and connected the vent tube. Then when putting the bolts back in, I couldn't get them to thread. That's when I noticed the replacement box had to small metal sleeves in the bolts holes. I removed those and the thick part of the bolt (under the bolt head) then slid into the new air box which allowed me to thread them in.
Just a heads up for anyone replacing the air box.
No big deal, I ordered an $8.99 replacement on ebay. (17220-ZM0-030) It arrived in short order, I think 2 days.
So I remove the 2 long bolts that hold it all together. (The box, and the carb)
This is where you need to be careful, as everything kind of just falls if you're not holding it when you pull the bolts. I disconnected the air line form the broken box, installed the new air box and connected the vent tube. Then when putting the bolts back in, I couldn't get them to thread. That's when I noticed the replacement box had to small metal sleeves in the bolts holes. I removed those and the thick part of the bolt (under the bolt head) then slid into the new air box which allowed me to thread them in.
Just a heads up for anyone replacing the air box.
Introduction
Hello all, I appreciate all the great advice on this blog!!
I have two Craftsman Tractors, DYT4000 21hp v-twin Bob Villa Sig. edition which runs awesome but won't mow. I've replaced deck clutch saf. Switch as well as seat switch but still kills engine when engaging PTO. PTO works just fine when checking with engine off, PTO switch works as it should in wiring diagram. Model # 917.274040.
My second one is a LT1000, 18hp Intek engine threw a rod and I replaced with an older 18.5hp twin II. Works and mows great although it really uses a lot of fuel. I would like to know how the governor should work properly as this engine seems to run slower than last and doesn't rev when under load. Eng mod # is 42A707 Type 1238 01 code 9601245B. Thanks for letting me join!!
I have two Craftsman Tractors, DYT4000 21hp v-twin Bob Villa Sig. edition which runs awesome but won't mow. I've replaced deck clutch saf. Switch as well as seat switch but still kills engine when engaging PTO. PTO works just fine when checking with engine off, PTO switch works as it should in wiring diagram. Model # 917.274040.
My second one is a LT1000, 18hp Intek engine threw a rod and I replaced with an older 18.5hp twin II. Works and mows great although it really uses a lot of fuel. I would like to know how the governor should work properly as this engine seems to run slower than last and doesn't rev when under load. Eng mod # is 42A707 Type 1238 01 code 9601245B. Thanks for letting me join!!
lnjr2042 | http://ift.tt/1ee2ENS
I think it is pretty good, and not because of its range, damage, or convienence, but because of its looks. Its a big, lumbering and heavy kickass gun and that's why I like it. It also got this cool scope that mepain made. Diet RecommendationsIn the "Liver Cleansing Diet" by Cabot, she recommends reducing your intake of refined carbohydrates like bread, pasta and sugar; using only low fat dairy foods, sparingly; avoiding fried and processed foods, margarines and artificial sweeteners; increasing the amount of raw fruits and vegetables and vegetables juices; drinking 2 liters of water each day; and using milk thistle supplements. News and World Report published an article on April 10, 2009, that recommended consuming a 1,400 calorie diet with vitamin E supplements, sticking to a low glycemic diet and adding one glass of red wine per day. National Institutes of Health.
Dome9 says its new security service will help make cloud security simple for developers and administrators, many of whom are using built in security stacks like the host firewall, but are finding them too difficult to manage, according to the press release. While the new security service seems to democratize cloud security by offering it for free, web hosts wanting to partner with Dome9 will likely still do so through its cloud security service designed for MSPs and enterprises. Dome9 is offering new customers that sign up for its Lite Cloud the enhanced features of Dome9 business cloud service for 30 days, a good selling tactic as users will get used to the expanded features and will be able to upgrade to the business cloud just a few clicks and for just 4 cents per hour per server.
ATA Advanced Technology Attachment 1056 is a very low toxicity liquid for such flexible applications as children's toys. Ferro Corp.'s Bedford Chemical Div., Bedford, Ohio Bedford is a city in Cuyahoga County, Ohio, United mulberry outlet uk States. The population was 14,214 at the 2000 census.
Crews mulberry outlet online are using vacuum trucks, power washers and absorbant material to remove the oil and have so far recovered mulberry outlet about an eighth of the oil that spilled. The source of the oil spill that occurred last week has not been determined. It is expected to about three weeks to finish the cleanup..
If it weren't for a post on Facebook that the girl's mother saw, there's no telling how long it would have taken the cops to find them. The post ???? ??? her mother saw was enough louboutin soldes to scare her into calling the cops for sac longchamps pas cher a well being check. But by the time the cops got there, it was too late..
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Dome9 says its new security service will help make cloud security simple for developers and administrators, many of whom are using built in security stacks like the host firewall, but are finding them too difficult to manage, according to the press release. While the new security service seems to democratize cloud security by offering it for free, web hosts wanting to partner with Dome9 will likely still do so through its cloud security service designed for MSPs and enterprises. Dome9 is offering new customers that sign up for its Lite Cloud the enhanced features of Dome9 business cloud service for 30 days, a good selling tactic as users will get used to the expanded features and will be able to upgrade to the business cloud just a few clicks and for just 4 cents per hour per server.
ATA Advanced Technology Attachment 1056 is a very low toxicity liquid for such flexible applications as children's toys. Ferro Corp.'s Bedford Chemical Div., Bedford, Ohio Bedford is a city in Cuyahoga County, Ohio, United mulberry outlet uk States. The population was 14,214 at the 2000 census.
Crews mulberry outlet online are using vacuum trucks, power washers and absorbant material to remove the oil and have so far recovered mulberry outlet about an eighth of the oil that spilled. The source of the oil spill that occurred last week has not been determined. It is expected to about three weeks to finish the cleanup..
If it weren't for a post on Facebook that the girl's mother saw, there's no telling how long it would have taken the cops to find them. The post ???? ??? her mother saw was enough louboutin soldes to scare her into calling the cops for sac longchamps pas cher a well being check. But by the time the cops got there, it was too late..
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dimanche 28 juin 2015
Garden tiller
I have a garden tiller with a 5 hp.Briggs engine it runs alright but when I put the breather on it almost dies out?
LX255 transmission problem, where to find parts?
I have a 1999 LX255 with a Tuff Torq K62A transmission. I picked the mower up pretty cheap because the transmission has issues. Based on the info I got from the seller and how I've seen the transmission respond I did some research and I believe that one or both cylinder blocks need to be replaced. I haven't opened the transmission yet so I don't know for sure. I have worked on other hydrostatic transaxles with bad differential gears and I'm pretty sure that is not the problem I have with this transmission.
I plan to open up the transmission this week and I was trying to get a head start tonight so I would be ready to order the cylinder blocks once I determine if that is the problem. I can't find any parts for that transmission. I found a parts diagram on the Tuff Torq website but it does not appear as though they sell the replacement cylinder blocks, only a rebuild kit, and that was not even priced so I don't know if they carry it. Can someone point me in the right direction?
I plan to open up the transmission this week and I was trying to get a head start tonight so I would be ready to order the cylinder blocks once I determine if that is the problem. I can't find any parts for that transmission. I found a parts diagram on the Tuff Torq website but it does not appear as though they sell the replacement cylinder blocks, only a rebuild kit, and that was not even priced so I don't know if they carry it. Can someone point me in the right direction?
I think I have a coil going bad and not exactly sure how to test it with my meter.
I have a Toro zero turn with a Kawasaki FR651V 22hp on it. It's been a great mower for the last four years but started popping on me the last time I mowed with it. I was about 75% the way through mowing my yard when it started popping and losing power. I could disengage the blade and it seemed to rev back up and run normal. Then after I started mowing again, it would eventually start popping again. It has good fuel in it, plugs look good and air filter is clean. I think one of the coils may be going bad after it warms up. I've taken both coils off and measured them. One of the coils measures 15.66 and the other measures 19.30. I think I am doing this correctly. The one coil is on the upper limits of the spec and this is at room temperature. I've read that these can be tell tell signs of coils that are going bad and act up during operation. If I'm reading the spec correctly, it says 20 is the top.
I'm attaching an image of the spec as listed and a youtube video of the problem as it's happening.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FgZY...ature=youtu.be
coil_directions.JPG
Thanks for any help.
I'm attaching an image of the spec as listed and a youtube video of the problem as it's happening.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FgZY...ature=youtu.be
coil_directions.JPG
Thanks for any help.
Pull start problems
Yesterday, the starter gear on my rider munched; today, I'm left trying to start with the pull start while a new gear is on order.
Mower is a 33114S with a Briggs 12HP flathead model 281707, type 0029 01.
It started up today on the first pull, no problem...about 30 seconds into running, a huge scream started coming from the pull rope area, so I shut it down, pulled the engine cover and put a few drops of 3 in 1 oil into the little hole in the top where the pull start engages the engine. It's made this "Bad bearing," sound before and the local mower shop had suggested the oil there and it seemed to cure it.
Now, when I pull the pull rope I get one of two situations, seemingly at random. Most of the time, I can pull the rope about half way, then it binds hard enough that the mower wants to flop on its side; BUT, if I remember and just keep tension on that pull rope when that happens, it'll gradually pull all the way out. When it DOESN'T bind up like that and try to flop on its side, there's no resistance whatsoever...which led to me elbowing a tree and that kinda hurt.
The binding doesn't feel like a hard stop, metal impacting metal kind of thing but more of a high compression sort of feel, like a buffered stop.
Anyhow, I now have a partially mowed front yard and I'm not sure where to start looking.
Recent work done was a new muffler added yesterday and a valve adjustment and lap the day before.
The problem started after putting a little oil under the pull start, so maybe I shouldn't have done that?
Thanks in advance.
Mower is a 33114S with a Briggs 12HP flathead model 281707, type 0029 01.
It started up today on the first pull, no problem...about 30 seconds into running, a huge scream started coming from the pull rope area, so I shut it down, pulled the engine cover and put a few drops of 3 in 1 oil into the little hole in the top where the pull start engages the engine. It's made this "Bad bearing," sound before and the local mower shop had suggested the oil there and it seemed to cure it.
Now, when I pull the pull rope I get one of two situations, seemingly at random. Most of the time, I can pull the rope about half way, then it binds hard enough that the mower wants to flop on its side; BUT, if I remember and just keep tension on that pull rope when that happens, it'll gradually pull all the way out. When it DOESN'T bind up like that and try to flop on its side, there's no resistance whatsoever...which led to me elbowing a tree and that kinda hurt.
The binding doesn't feel like a hard stop, metal impacting metal kind of thing but more of a high compression sort of feel, like a buffered stop.
Anyhow, I now have a partially mowed front yard and I'm not sure where to start looking.
Recent work done was a new muffler added yesterday and a valve adjustment and lap the day before.
The problem started after putting a little oil under the pull start, so maybe I shouldn't have done that?
Thanks in advance.
Engine Adding Battery start to 10515 engine like the 10546
Can an Battery starter be added to my 10515? I located the 10546 on YouTube it looked a lot like the 10515. I guess the block has to have mounting spot for the starter. And that is why I am asking for help before I go any further with my idea.
Also can a primer ball be added to the 10515 Thanks willyp33,
Also can a primer ball be added to the 10515 Thanks willyp33,
Repairs Bad hydrostatic drive.
Hi folks. I'm new to your group. I just recently found out that there is an online forum dedicated to grasshopper mowers. I have a model 618c. A front mounted mower with a 54" deck. Recently the right side hydro drive started to die. It will work up to a point, but I have to manipulate the left side to get let the right side to catch up. I think it may have something to do with the valve system in the unit. the oil is fairly clean and dosen't smell. The machine's time shows 250 hours, but I think it's closer to 400 or 500. I cannot find any repair information or readable parts diagrams. Is it possible that someone knows of a rebuilder. It would be a lot easier to have some one rebuild it than do it myself. I opened it up and it may require special tools to disassemble and reassemble. This unit appears to be made by Gemini, model 771-099. I'd appreciate any help I can get.
need help with ignition coil module on 1980 R7070
i have a 1980 2 stroke 21" push Lawn Boy which i love...problem is that i can't seem to keep it alive!! i have replace the ignition coil 3 times in last year, once with the high dollar original style from Lawn Boy dealer, and 2 times with Ebay Taiwan replica....the one from the dealer lasted half of a season, the others lasted about TEN MINUTES!! can someone tell me if this is indicative of the new coils or am i possibly doing something wrong with installation?? this is getting EXPENSIVE! thanks for any help you can offer. Rick
Gravely 2044XL won't star, just clicks.
I am struggling with figuring out what is wrong with my gravely.
I have trouble shot it and thought it was a bad solenoid so I replaced that and nothing. Replaced key switch and nothing. Will start by jumping across the solenoid but that's it. Is there something obvious that I am missing?
I have trouble shot it and thought it was a bad solenoid so I replaced that and nothing. Replaced key switch and nothing. Will start by jumping across the solenoid but that's it. Is there something obvious that I am missing?
F motor coil
are the new style Duraforce coils compatible with the F motor? I was digging around in my garage and found an f motor with good compression so my goal was to put it on a gold series 3speed trans.the motor was missing the coil.I got it on the deck but had to use the lower plate as the replacement f motor was a push model everything seems to be interchangeable and the project is coming along good thing they redesigned the duraforce with belt replacement in mind
Videos and pictures
Anyone having problems posting picture and videos? When I try all that comes up are img numbers or URL's, is it the site or my computer messing up?
VIN
is there a website where i can enter the vin of my john deere 320 and it tell me the year of manufacture? thanks
How good is the kohler 7000 engine?
Seems like Kawasaki can't keep up and the kohler is popping up everywhere.
Anyone out there got some serious hours on one yet that can tell us how its going?
Anyone out there got some serious hours on one yet that can tell us how its going?
Need help with Recharge G2 Electric Mower
I have a Recharge G2 Electric Mower. When I pressed the accelerator, the green light blinking and the unit is not moving. When I took my foot off from accelerator, the green link turned solid. would you please advice how to troubleshoot and fix the issue. thank you so much in advance.
Help with Blade Size
I have installed an old motor on a newer deck. I have it all together and running, I just need a new muffler and a new blade. I am using the image below to help with my blade sizing. The deck originally had a 21 inch mulching blade and I would like to install a new 21 inch blade. The problem I have is that I do not know what blade was originally on the old mower engine. All I got with the engine was the engine. I do have the bolt for the blade and the engine has a blade adapter on the bottom of the shaft. That adapter takes a 5/16 inch bolt and the spacing between the two outer holes is 1 1/8".
My engine is a Briggs: 92502 3151 02 87015151 (Looks to be an old engine).
If I can find a new blade do I need the two little soft metal inserts that go into the two outer holes on that adapter?
Do I also need some sort of a plate that holds those to soft metal inserts in place?
Or, can I just use the center bolt and bolt on a new blade?
I have a pic of my blade adapter on the end of the shaft but can't seem to upload it for some reason.
Thanks for any help.
My engine is a Briggs: 92502 3151 02 87015151 (Looks to be an old engine).
If I can find a new blade do I need the two little soft metal inserts that go into the two outer holes on that adapter?
Do I also need some sort of a plate that holds those to soft metal inserts in place?
Or, can I just use the center bolt and bolt on a new blade?
I have a pic of my blade adapter on the end of the shaft but can't seem to upload it for some reason.
Thanks for any help.
STIHL Unveils New Professional Hedge Trimmers Perfect for Pruning & Trimming
The new STIHL HS 82 and HS 87 top of the line*hedge trimmers (22.7 cc) provide precise and tough cutting for professional performance. Compared to previous models*, [...]
Read this article on LawnWorld
Read this article on LawnWorld
samedi 27 juin 2015
Engine Oil in Carb - GCV160
New mower with Honda GCV160LA0S3B engine. Ran fine for 3 uses then wouldn't start. Pulled the carb, lot of oil inside, thought I had tilted it the wrong way when I went to hose it off. Cleaned the carb and both inner and outer jets, completely, in an ultrasonic cleaner, started on 5 pulls afterward. Next time 10 pulls, 3rd time 50+ pulls, 4th time won't start. Pulled the carb, same issue with oil inside, total mess. Definitely not caused by tilting it the wrong way. Mower is Husqvarna HU700H, engine Honda GCV160LA0S3B with auto choke, carb is 16100-Z8B-901 / BB76A A.
What are the possible causes of oil in the carb?
OilInCarb4.png
What are the possible causes of oil in the carb?
OilInCarb4.png
Attachments
I have an old JD 68. Does anyone know if a new JD lawn sweeper will work on this machine? I believe it's an '82. Any insights for this type of machine would be greatly appreciated. Hope you are all well!
LB
LB
Ridgez28 Newby
Hello from Ohio,
I've got a problem with my Yard Man PTO and have posted and Mechanic Mark has saved the day. What a great forum and great folks.
Best Regards,
Ridgez28
I've got a problem with my Yard Man PTO and have posted and Mechanic Mark has saved the day. What a great forum and great folks.
Best Regards,
Ridgez28
22hp Tecumseh issues
Hi, this is a 22hp vtwin tecumseh on a White rider. I don't think this engine even has 100hrs on it but I parked it out of frustration a couple years ago because I had another mower--which I just redid and still use. I have some xtra time on my hands i'd like to get the White going for a backup, if not a main mower it has a bigger deck than my JD.
At any rate, engine ran like a top. All of the sudden when i'd go to start it, it will start, then run a few seconds and die. It has nothing to do with how i'm operating the throttle/choke---I am sure of that. So, I did the first easiest thing I could think of and changed the fuel filter. Same thing.
Ideas? I do have the mechanical ability to take apart what I have to but I want to discuss ideas first. Taking it apart is one thing, my knowledge on fixing it isn't nearly as good esp. when it comes to carbs.
Also, I can't get the transaxle to disengage even with pin pulled out. It looks as if the parking break switch was in, I pulled it out same thing. Any ideas if your familiar with the mower? I had to load it on the back of my tractor and haul it to the shop because I can't get the rear tires free.
I hate to see this mower go to waste, it's around 10 years old but barely used. It seems, for a lower end mower, to be built better than the JD, has cruise control, etc.
One last thing, I have some steep ditches and I don't thing the engine liked them as ever since I did them the engine will smoke at start up. It then stops though. The briggs on the JD has never given me this issue from doing the ditches. I realize the plugs might be fouled but as well as the Tecumseh runs for the short period on start up I doubt it has anything to do with the problem. To me it sounds like a gas flow issue but i'm not the expert.
Thank you!
At any rate, engine ran like a top. All of the sudden when i'd go to start it, it will start, then run a few seconds and die. It has nothing to do with how i'm operating the throttle/choke---I am sure of that. So, I did the first easiest thing I could think of and changed the fuel filter. Same thing.
Ideas? I do have the mechanical ability to take apart what I have to but I want to discuss ideas first. Taking it apart is one thing, my knowledge on fixing it isn't nearly as good esp. when it comes to carbs.
Also, I can't get the transaxle to disengage even with pin pulled out. It looks as if the parking break switch was in, I pulled it out same thing. Any ideas if your familiar with the mower? I had to load it on the back of my tractor and haul it to the shop because I can't get the rear tires free.
I hate to see this mower go to waste, it's around 10 years old but barely used. It seems, for a lower end mower, to be built better than the JD, has cruise control, etc.
One last thing, I have some steep ditches and I don't thing the engine liked them as ever since I did them the engine will smoke at start up. It then stops though. The briggs on the JD has never given me this issue from doing the ditches. I realize the plugs might be fouled but as well as the Tecumseh runs for the short period on start up I doubt it has anything to do with the problem. To me it sounds like a gas flow issue but i'm not the expert.
Thank you!
Mower deck Craftsman tractor ys 4500
I recently changed my muching blades as I bent one. Trying to level deck but right front is lower than the left side. Made adjustment to right rear. When deck is on setting 3 right side is on the floor and left side is off the ground. Any ideas. Front adjustment will level both sides simultaneously. At a loss.
How to remove clutch assembly on Toro Z Master
I have a Toro Z Master Z150 zero turn mower and I need to get the clutch off. I removed the bolt from the shaft and the lower portion came off (the pulley that drives the deck belt) but everything above that won't budge. I've tried giving it some force (even used a bit of force with a crow bar) and it still won't budge. Am I missing something or do I just need to give it more force? I don't want to cause more damage than is already there.
Some Basic Oil Change Questions?
I just recently got a new mower that has a kohler courage SV530 (17HP engine). I have to different basic questions:
1. I've scoured through both the engine and lawn mower manual and for the life of me i can't find them recommended an early (1st) oil changes like a lot of mowers do. The only recommendation for oil changes is 1 a season or every 100 hours. I know my Honda mower recommended its 1st oil change after 5 hours of use. Should i just do an early oil change anyways? I've searched for recommendations and they seem to be all over the place. If you are curious here is a link the engine manual: http://ift.tt/1CB9CSQ
2. Kohler seems to slightly overcharge for their oil filters. So i was searching to see if there was an replacement with general automative oil filters and it seems like their is:
"Briggs/Kohler type" 3/4" X 16 threads 8-11 PSI Bypass Gasket 2.734"OD X2 .430"ID 0.226" thick
Length" Wix Purolator Hastings Kohler B&S Baldwin MotorCraft AC Walmart JD
2.3" 57035 NA LF503 2805001 492932 B7165 NA NA? NA ?
2.7" 51056 L35310 LF302 1205001 492056 B1410 NA PF2210 NA AM125424
3.4" 51348 L10241 LF157 5205002 491056 BT223 FL793 PF53 ST3614 AM101207
4.8" 51516 L20195 LF134 NA NA B243 FL400A PFL400A ST3600 ?
I measured the length of my oil filter and it seems to be 3''. I have PLENTY of clearance in front of the oil filter. According to what i found the L35310 seems to be a direct replacement. The problem is that it seems to be as much or more in some cases then the kohler filter. I think i'm just going to get the L10241 which is MUCH cheaper but .7'' longer or maybe L20195. I should be fine right just as long as i have plenty of clearance. I think maybe either the stores that sell these filter or the manufacturers has found out people are replacing kohler filters with theirs and priced them accordingly. The direct replacements (2.7'') at both amazon & advanced auto parts were much highter
1. I've scoured through both the engine and lawn mower manual and for the life of me i can't find them recommended an early (1st) oil changes like a lot of mowers do. The only recommendation for oil changes is 1 a season or every 100 hours. I know my Honda mower recommended its 1st oil change after 5 hours of use. Should i just do an early oil change anyways? I've searched for recommendations and they seem to be all over the place. If you are curious here is a link the engine manual: http://ift.tt/1CB9CSQ
2. Kohler seems to slightly overcharge for their oil filters. So i was searching to see if there was an replacement with general automative oil filters and it seems like their is:
"Briggs/Kohler type" 3/4" X 16 threads 8-11 PSI Bypass Gasket 2.734"OD X2 .430"ID 0.226" thick
Length" Wix Purolator Hastings Kohler B&S Baldwin MotorCraft AC Walmart JD
2.3" 57035 NA LF503 2805001 492932 B7165 NA NA? NA ?
2.7" 51056 L35310 LF302 1205001 492056 B1410 NA PF2210 NA AM125424
3.4" 51348 L10241 LF157 5205002 491056 BT223 FL793 PF53 ST3614 AM101207
4.8" 51516 L20195 LF134 NA NA B243 FL400A PFL400A ST3600 ?
I measured the length of my oil filter and it seems to be 3''. I have PLENTY of clearance in front of the oil filter. According to what i found the L35310 seems to be a direct replacement. The problem is that it seems to be as much or more in some cases then the kohler filter. I think i'm just going to get the L10241 which is MUCH cheaper but .7'' longer or maybe L20195. I should be fine right just as long as i have plenty of clearance. I think maybe either the stores that sell these filter or the manufacturers has found out people are replacing kohler filters with theirs and priced them accordingly. The direct replacements (2.7'') at both amazon & advanced auto parts were much highter
New User
Hi all
New to the forum, but been fixing my own mowers for the last 50 years. Have a JD Sabre 15.5hp rider and a Craftsman 21" self-propelled at the moment. The Sabre began burning oil recently so I think I'm looking at a head-gasket change - this is what brought me to the forum. Good info here !
Richard
New to the forum, but been fixing my own mowers for the last 50 years. Have a JD Sabre 15.5hp rider and a Craftsman 21" self-propelled at the moment. The Sabre began burning oil recently so I think I'm looking at a head-gasket change - this is what brought me to the forum. Good info here !
Richard
Repairs Yardman HA4145 hydrogear 618-0389 control connections
Hi,
I,m rebuilding my Ha 4145 with a hydrogear 618-0389 axle and I,m struggling to remember what connects to where!!
Has anyone got the same mower and could you send me a photo of the connections on the axle for the control rod and brake cable?
I,m currently pulling out what hair I have left. You help would be appreciated
Cheers
Mick
Email mick@dragonrs.com
I,m rebuilding my Ha 4145 with a hydrogear 618-0389 axle and I,m struggling to remember what connects to where!!
Has anyone got the same mower and could you send me a photo of the connections on the axle for the control rod and brake cable?
I,m currently pulling out what hair I have left. You help would be appreciated
Cheers
Mick
Email mick@dragonrs.com
vendredi 26 juin 2015
1995 Yardman w/ 50" Deck
Just curious if anyone in here has ever owned one? Model # 145y834p401. It has the Kohler Commander 22 hp engine and a 50 inch deck. I have owned this mower since 1995 (bought it new).
I just have to give this thing props. I have owned it for just over 20 years now, and it's still a beast. I feel bad about it, but I have abused the heck out of this mower. Being the cheapest "Big" mower on the market at the time (Bought it at Monkey Wards), I really thought it would make it only 5 to 7 years and then fall apart (I bought the extended 5 yr service contract, I figured as soon as that was up it would be done). Dang, was I ever wrong!!! Therefore, I really didn't take very good care of it. To be honest, I've treated it like cr*p.
The hood has long since fallen off, the seat is cracked horribly, the rubber foot pads broke off, etc, but this thing just keeps going. With the way I've treated it, I'm amazed. Since the extended maintenance warranty ran out, I've never once changed the spark plug or even changed the air filter. The throttle cable has been stuck in 'full throttle' position for the last 12 years or so. I do change oil and filter regularly though, and that's about all I can say that I've done to be nice to it. Heck, I've never even once put a grease gun to this thing. :o And believe it or not, I've never once put had the carburator looked at. Everything (excluding belts, deck spindles, blades, gas filter, battery, oil filter, and oil) is original. This thing has never even been to a lawnmower shop.
Every summer I just had this thought that "Ok, this thing will prolly just make it another month or two, then die and it'll be time for a new one. WRONG! I'm truly amazed... because I've been mowing 3 acres with it at least once a week (when the grass is growing here in Oklahoma) ever since 1995.
The engine is original and doesn't smoke or eat oil (props to Kohler). The hydrostatic transmission is still as smooth as the day I bought it (unbelievable), and believe it or not, it STILL has the original tires on it and they STILL hold air. It starts as well now as it did when it was brand new, and runs like a top. I've come to call it "Old Faithful".
I bought a Scotts mower about 8 years ago thinking "I need a backup, this thing is going to die any day".... since then, I have also accumulated 2 Craftsman mowers. All 4 run, and run well (the other 3 have been well taken care of), but I still prefer to mow with Old Faithful. My wife and daughters hate it, mainly cuz it's downright ugly, but it's my favorite mower. It's the fastest of the 4, and has the biggest deck... so I get more done with it in a shorter time. And honestly, despite my wreckless abuse, it runs the best.
I'm probably jinxing myself, but I've bought a ton of parts for it this week. I've bought all new deck pulleys, 2 new spindles, a new throttle cable, new air filter, new spark plug, I've finally put a grease gun to it, bought all new belts, etc. I can't help but to wonder how much time it has left, but I'm finally giving it the maintenance and attention it has long deserved.
I was just curious if anyone else has owned one, and if it has been the beast that this one is. 20 years and STILL going strong (knock on wood)... it's really hard to believe.... At this point, I'm honestly wondering if treated right, how long it will last..... yardman2.jpg
I just have to give this thing props. I have owned it for just over 20 years now, and it's still a beast. I feel bad about it, but I have abused the heck out of this mower. Being the cheapest "Big" mower on the market at the time (Bought it at Monkey Wards), I really thought it would make it only 5 to 7 years and then fall apart (I bought the extended 5 yr service contract, I figured as soon as that was up it would be done). Dang, was I ever wrong!!! Therefore, I really didn't take very good care of it. To be honest, I've treated it like cr*p.
The hood has long since fallen off, the seat is cracked horribly, the rubber foot pads broke off, etc, but this thing just keeps going. With the way I've treated it, I'm amazed. Since the extended maintenance warranty ran out, I've never once changed the spark plug or even changed the air filter. The throttle cable has been stuck in 'full throttle' position for the last 12 years or so. I do change oil and filter regularly though, and that's about all I can say that I've done to be nice to it. Heck, I've never even once put a grease gun to this thing. :o And believe it or not, I've never once put had the carburator looked at. Everything (excluding belts, deck spindles, blades, gas filter, battery, oil filter, and oil) is original. This thing has never even been to a lawnmower shop.
Every summer I just had this thought that "Ok, this thing will prolly just make it another month or two, then die and it'll be time for a new one. WRONG! I'm truly amazed... because I've been mowing 3 acres with it at least once a week (when the grass is growing here in Oklahoma) ever since 1995.
The engine is original and doesn't smoke or eat oil (props to Kohler). The hydrostatic transmission is still as smooth as the day I bought it (unbelievable), and believe it or not, it STILL has the original tires on it and they STILL hold air. It starts as well now as it did when it was brand new, and runs like a top. I've come to call it "Old Faithful".
I bought a Scotts mower about 8 years ago thinking "I need a backup, this thing is going to die any day".... since then, I have also accumulated 2 Craftsman mowers. All 4 run, and run well (the other 3 have been well taken care of), but I still prefer to mow with Old Faithful. My wife and daughters hate it, mainly cuz it's downright ugly, but it's my favorite mower. It's the fastest of the 4, and has the biggest deck... so I get more done with it in a shorter time. And honestly, despite my wreckless abuse, it runs the best.
I'm probably jinxing myself, but I've bought a ton of parts for it this week. I've bought all new deck pulleys, 2 new spindles, a new throttle cable, new air filter, new spark plug, I've finally put a grease gun to it, bought all new belts, etc. I can't help but to wonder how much time it has left, but I'm finally giving it the maintenance and attention it has long deserved.
I was just curious if anyone else has owned one, and if it has been the beast that this one is. 20 years and STILL going strong (knock on wood)... it's really hard to believe.... At this point, I'm honestly wondering if treated right, how long it will last..... yardman2.jpg
more information
I just got more information about the grandsons mower.
Now he tells me that the gear selector will move freely so I don't know exactly what is going on.
I hope to talk to him tomorrow and we can figure something out.
Now he tells me that the gear selector will move freely so I don't know exactly what is going on.
I hope to talk to him tomorrow and we can figure something out.
long distance belt trouble
My grandson is having trouble with his craftsman mower belt. He said he was mowing his grass and the mower just quit moving.
The problem is with the belt or pulley. Problem is that I am 300 miles away and cannot see what it is doing.
It would be very helpful if I could find a diagram of the belt and pulleys so I might be able to talk to him and help him figure it out.
Mower model number is 917.254240 and serial number is 0147S09812.
Both of us will be very grateful.
The problem is with the belt or pulley. Problem is that I am 300 miles away and cannot see what it is doing.
It would be very helpful if I could find a diagram of the belt and pulleys so I might be able to talk to him and help him figure it out.
Mower model number is 917.254240 and serial number is 0147S09812.
Both of us will be very grateful.
Best method to lift deck for blade removal and greasing?
Well I have my new Scag Tiger Cat and I'm very proud of it.
I see the best method to remove blades as they loosen from the top is to raise the deck. Looks like the spindles can be greased from the bottom of the deck as well. What tools do I need to do this safely? My old CC I would remove the deck to work on it. I will only need to do this once a year as I'm just mowing 2.5 acres. Low cost options would be appreciated.
Thanks
I see the best method to remove blades as they loosen from the top is to raise the deck. Looks like the spindles can be greased from the bottom of the deck as well. What tools do I need to do this safely? My old CC I would remove the deck to work on it. I will only need to do this once a year as I'm just mowing 2.5 acres. Low cost options would be appreciated.
Thanks
New User
Hi all
New to the forum, but been fixing my own mowers for the last 50 years. Have a JD Sabre 15.5hp rider and a Craftsman 21" self-propelled at the moment. The Sabre began burning oil recently so I think I'm looking at a head-gasket change - this is what brought me to the forum. Good info here !
Richard
New to the forum, but been fixing my own mowers for the last 50 years. Have a JD Sabre 15.5hp rider and a Craftsman 21" self-propelled at the moment. The Sabre began burning oil recently so I think I'm looking at a head-gasket change - this is what brought me to the forum. Good info here !
Richard
Key will not shut off mower.
Hi, I am new to this forum and need some help. I own a Scag SWZV36A walk behind mower. The year is a 2008. It starts up fine but when I turn the key to shut it off it will not shut off. It is a manual pull start. I have checked the key switch and it checks out OK with and ohm meter. It also has the senso touch handle bar that does not seem to be working. I was wondering it the two are connected to my problem. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.
Just some neat dealer photos...
Thanks to Goodsell Power Equipment in Kirkland, WA...
Click on the gallery below to view images on Honda's Facebook Page...(and "like it" if you think Robert is a good guy :tongue::tongue:)
Click on the gallery below to view images on Honda's Facebook Page...(and "like it" if you think Robert is a good guy :tongue::tongue:)
Buying Advice New LB member
Hello All,
I'm new to the forum. I just recently used my dad's LB Silver Series mower with offset wheel. Not sure on model # but it was a 2-stroke and probably made after 2000 or so. I really liked it and seemed to give a nice cut. My current Craftsman that was a freebie from a neighbor is starting to breathe oil more frequently, so I'm looking for a replacement soon. I'd like to find a cool looking mower and like the lawnboy 2-stroke.
I recently came across a LB 8480 that is a good price. Needs some work, but how are those? Are they different since they don't have the offset front wheel?
I'm new to the forum. I just recently used my dad's LB Silver Series mower with offset wheel. Not sure on model # but it was a 2-stroke and probably made after 2000 or so. I really liked it and seemed to give a nice cut. My current Craftsman that was a freebie from a neighbor is starting to breathe oil more frequently, so I'm looking for a replacement soon. I'd like to find a cool looking mower and like the lawnboy 2-stroke.
I recently came across a LB 8480 that is a good price. Needs some work, but how are those? Are they different since they don't have the offset front wheel?
rzt 22
Hi I am really confused I have been trying to get my rzt 22 to crank I can not get it to do anything any help would be great I have mechinacal skills just cant figured out why it will not crank
honda h3011
its 26 years old and starts every time. the last time it starts but as soon as i back it off of choke it dies. cable looks good.. took the gas tank off so i could see all the linkage, but i don't know what its supposed to look like. i tied a wire on a lever which and i got some throttle action. it took a whole tank of fuel on just the front yard than cut out cause i think the plug fouled out from being so rich.
any ideas?
any ideas?
Snapper Hi-Vac WI-185V
I just purchased this Snapper Hi-Vac for 40.00 on C.L. It looks really nice and well taken care of and I'm excited about it. Problem is that I can't get fire to the plug. I know they had a problem with the coils, so I purchased a "new/OLD" coil. That's an original Teledyne coil in the original packaging and never used. I installed it and still don't have a spark. I do have the chute installed so that the safety kill switch is in the "running" position.
Any clues as to what could be causing the problem?
Any clues as to what could be causing the problem?
briggs model 12M902-0451-E1 hard to start hot
engine is L-head 4.5hp
ok what I've done so far:
checked spark, cleaned carb, flywheel key, all checked ok.
took compression check 60psi.
pulled head off rotated flywheel and noticed that at about 3/4 up on compression stroke the exhaust valve will open slightly then closes.
(this is new to me) thinking maybe cam lobe may have been ground wrong.
or is this something they came up with to lower compression for some reason?
ok what I've done so far:
checked spark, cleaned carb, flywheel key, all checked ok.
took compression check 60psi.
pulled head off rotated flywheel and noticed that at about 3/4 up on compression stroke the exhaust valve will open slightly then closes.
(this is new to me) thinking maybe cam lobe may have been ground wrong.
or is this something they came up with to lower compression for some reason?
New to the whole forum thing...
Hi, I'm Mike. I live in Davisburg Michigan between Pontiac and Flint. I mow about 3 of almost 4 acres with a Cub 4816F commercial walk (and I do NOT use the sulky) behind that has seen better days as it is about a 1997 (I think). I also have a 1989 Cub 1050 Garden Tractor that I use for general purposes after finally getting around to tearing out the drive line last year and fixing it. I'm 58 and plan on walking the lawn until 60 OR the 4816F gives out. I thought that was Wednesday when the PTO wouldn't engage. Seeing that the part cost upwards of $500 from Cub I went to the net and found this forum. It was helpful AND so was my neighbor who has a lot of toys that he keeps fit. My next purchase will probably be another Cub lawn/garden tractor in the $2k price range. This one will probably be bought new unlike the other beasts. That is if I can hold out and stop my wife from selling our beautiful lake property. Getting old stinks when you are having so much fun. But heaven will be better. No more broken wires, bad switches, worn out parts (like my knees and hips).
Thanks for you ear.
Mike
Thanks for you ear.
Mike
jeudi 25 juin 2015
Lawn boy rider
I am new to the site. I have a lawn boy rider. It is in the LT series, model 81191 with a 13 hp engine. I am looking for a steering tower. The plastic on the lower portion that holds the lever to engage the deck broke tonight. Also, the inside on the tower where the pivot rod / clamp and nut wedge are located ....those plastic parts broke years ago and I have been limping along without most of the plastic "fingers" but tonight was possibly the last straw for the old girl. Does anyone know of a dealer that may have the parts or a private individual that could help me out............or has anyone ever repaired those "fingers" successfully? Thanks for you tile looking forward to exploring the site.
Adding a throttle and choke to a 6.25 craftsman (possible?)
Hi everybody,I have just joined the forum and this is my first post.I have a problem that is beyond my solving.
I have a 6.25 hp. craftsman (Model#917.388360)(engine model# is 143.006200)Which I am trying to use as the
engine to an outboard motor lower unit.I have done this before,it works well and is becoming a common retrofit
for anyone having an old outboard leg.Normally with an engine that has a throttle and maybe a choke this is
very easily done (checkout youtube).But the carburator on my engine has a fixed throttle.Pull the handle and off
she roars full speed.This means running full speed while shifting into forward and reverse from neutral,not a
safe or smart move.Anybody know a way to convert the stock carb so that I have a throttle (and maybe choke).
OR, another carb with existing throttle.I have no idea how one would determine if it would fit or if there are
problems with fuel delivery or other problems.Anyone have any advise?
thanks in advance, johnsella
I have a 6.25 hp. craftsman (Model#917.388360)(engine model# is 143.006200)Which I am trying to use as the
engine to an outboard motor lower unit.I have done this before,it works well and is becoming a common retrofit
for anyone having an old outboard leg.Normally with an engine that has a throttle and maybe a choke this is
very easily done (checkout youtube).But the carburator on my engine has a fixed throttle.Pull the handle and off
she roars full speed.This means running full speed while shifting into forward and reverse from neutral,not a
safe or smart move.Anybody know a way to convert the stock carb so that I have a throttle (and maybe choke).
OR, another carb with existing throttle.I have no idea how one would determine if it would fit or if there are
problems with fuel delivery or other problems.Anyone have any advise?
thanks in advance, johnsella
Lazer Z HP won't move
I just had a new engine put in my Lazer Z HP a couple of days ago. It was running fine, but all of a sudden today it quit moving. The engine runs fine and seems to be okay, but nothing happens when I push forward or pull back on the arms. It happened while mowing. Just going fine, then all of a sudden it stops moving.
Is this a hydraulic issue? What should I look for?
Thanks for all help.
Is this a hydraulic issue? What should I look for?
Thanks for all help.
Looking at the Walker S14 for residential use.
Love this mower but is it really worth the extra $4,000 that I would have to pay over any other ZTR on the market? I am cutting 1 acre of Bermuda. Is the cut quality that much better to justify the cost? Have you had any issues with the Suburu engine? Thanks.
Proper installation of the Shift link for a craftsman model no.917.273451
I've tried every possible configuration possible (at least 5 or 6) without success. Only one come close to working, it worked fine R-N-1-2-3-4, then a total lock up. I blew one of the ball joints out when I forced it to 5 & 6 . Does anyone out there know what the correct orientation to install this damn link and also the correct orientation of the shifter input arm?
Any advice would be greatly appreciated.
Any advice would be greatly appreciated.
Found a bat.
Ever wonder what an aluminum baseball bat looks like when it is run over by a zero turn.
Shopping for riding lawn mower..."the best" within reason. Steep hill
Hi everyone,
Who knew such a thing as a lawn mower forum existed :).
We are in the process of moving into a new home with a fairly steep hill. I have mowed my current lawn for the last 11 years with a Toro Personal Pace that was when the body was of higher quality (bought in 2004) than apparently they are today. I have been very happy with it, and because I keep my machines maintained (by professionals, I'm useless myself), it has been great.
Mowing on this new hill has been unbearable, though. I have to mow across it due to the layout of the lawn, so not only am I a full mower strip below my mower, my ankle is getting crushed at an ankle the entire time.
I prefer walking, but I may have to get a riding mower because of this.
When I buy machines, I tend to spend what I need to get something that will last for the long run when maintained. I also see the difference in what specialty shops sell as opposed to big box retailers, often from the same brand.
I dropped into a local Toro dealer today, and they said the zero turn mowers aren't best on a hill. They sell Simplicity, which the guy said was "lesser known, but higher quality". He also told me I probably need a "tractor" rather than a zero turn.
So forgetting that bias (if I should), is there some form of consensus about "the best" for what I've described? I realize there is always subjective opinion, but I would assume there is a "Honda" of lawn mowers.
I'm looking forward to the comments.
JC
Who knew such a thing as a lawn mower forum existed :).
We are in the process of moving into a new home with a fairly steep hill. I have mowed my current lawn for the last 11 years with a Toro Personal Pace that was when the body was of higher quality (bought in 2004) than apparently they are today. I have been very happy with it, and because I keep my machines maintained (by professionals, I'm useless myself), it has been great.
Mowing on this new hill has been unbearable, though. I have to mow across it due to the layout of the lawn, so not only am I a full mower strip below my mower, my ankle is getting crushed at an ankle the entire time.
I prefer walking, but I may have to get a riding mower because of this.
When I buy machines, I tend to spend what I need to get something that will last for the long run when maintained. I also see the difference in what specialty shops sell as opposed to big box retailers, often from the same brand.
I dropped into a local Toro dealer today, and they said the zero turn mowers aren't best on a hill. They sell Simplicity, which the guy said was "lesser known, but higher quality". He also told me I probably need a "tractor" rather than a zero turn.
So forgetting that bias (if I should), is there some form of consensus about "the best" for what I've described? I realize there is always subjective opinion, but I would assume there is a "Honda" of lawn mowers.
I'm looking forward to the comments.
JC
Hello Everyone..New to This Forum
My name is Oscar and I am excited to be a part of this forum. I got started professionally last April. I started a lawn and garden care business just about a month ago. Is there any other tips or tricks we can do to get more service?
When to change oil on FH680V-ES28-S
I just had a new engine put in my Exmark Lazer Z HP. The Model number is FH680V-ES28-S. I can't find an owner's manual or service manual for this engine anywhere online.
What is the recommended time for the first oil change and then each oil change after that? What oil filter needs to be used? Any certain oil?
Thanks in advance for all help.
What is the recommended time for the first oil change and then each oil change after that? What oil filter needs to be used? Any certain oil?
Thanks in advance for all help.
Vague question I know.
Hey Folks, I have an HRX2174VKA that's about 2 years old. The last couple of time I've used it, I've noticed a slight rattle coming from the deck area. I haven't really spent any time yet to investigate, but it definitely seems to be coming from the deck. It doesn't have to be moving to hear the noise. It sounds like something is loose and vibrating slightly somewhere. It doesn't wobble like a bent blade or shaft may indicate and its not coming from the handle. I can't tell if the sound is coming from inside or outside the engine itself, or if something got loose around the deck. Has anyone had a similar issue? I guess I'm just looking for a place to start looking.
Is this a good deal for a couple Honda Push Mowers?
Take a look at this. I work down the road from here. Is this a good deal?
Honda Self Propelled Mower Lot
Honda Self Propelled Mower Lot
mercredi 24 juin 2015
Hello Everyone..New to This Forum
My name is Oscar and I am excited to be a part of this forum. I got started professionally last April. I started a lawn and garden care business just about a month ago. Is there any other tips or tricks we can do to get more service?
snapper no start
Hi Forum world. I left the snapper in the elements for about 3 weeks, (which i never do) but i needed the shed for other stuff. okay that's out in the open...
I can't get it to started, I checked some wiring that i could get too, and found one connection a little corroded. Cleaned it up and replaced new battery, sanded mag and coil just enough to clean, still no start. BUT, I did have a scare, at one point turned the key to start and it would not stop, had remove battery cable. That's where i stopped...
I have a Snapper riding mower series 8 model: R33148VE... I need wiring diagram it anyone may have to send to me...
Thanks Rich
I can't get it to started, I checked some wiring that i could get too, and found one connection a little corroded. Cleaned it up and replaced new battery, sanded mag and coil just enough to clean, still no start. BUT, I did have a scare, at one point turned the key to start and it would not stop, had remove battery cable. That's where i stopped...
I have a Snapper riding mower series 8 model: R33148VE... I need wiring diagram it anyone may have to send to me...
Thanks Rich
Running Rough
My neighbors ZD-25 is running rough. Replace both fuel filters, not sure of the next step.:confused2:
CV 460 replacement
I have a JD GT 225 with a CV460S 26511. I am considering replacing the CV460 but would like to go with a larger engine. Can anyone tell me what would be the largest Kohler I could use with minimal or no modifications?
Thanks in advance.
Thanks in advance.
Kohler K582s Running rough.
I have a Kohler K582s engine and when you try and to go to full throttle it acts like its cutting out and doesn't want to run very well. I checked both the spark plugs, they were fowled so I cleaned them off. I tested both of the spark plug wires and they both read the same. It has an electronic coil and points so I adjusted the points and it seemed to help it a little bit. I was timing by what it said in the manual and adjusted the timing with the governor and I ran out of room to turn it. I did a compression test and both were at 130 psi, what the book said they should be at. I removed the plug on top and I can see the bevel gear in the hole when the DC is at the top in the hole like the book says. I put a spark tester on both of the wires and it was firing, but could the coil be weak for it to idle and not go to full throttle?
Toro wheel horse 212-H
Mower has forward and reverse lever up near steering column. Reverse stays where set but forward requires constant pressure on handle to keep going forward. Any advice on how to fix this problem would be much appreciated. Bill
12 HP Flat Head Running Rough.
What the title says It's running rough and backfires sometime, and will act like It's going to stall but revs It's self back up. Also when I tried to start It this morning It started then ran rough for a few second's and stalled would not start unless I put the choke on, and would stall If I didn't play with the throttle. When It was about to stall I had to put the choke on or It would have stalled. I let zit run In the garage for over a half-hour and It didn't stall once but was still running rough and occasional backfire. Also It will run with the choke on for about 15 seconds then start to conk out. In the mean time I have to replace the starter pinion gear since that's chewed up.
Buying Advice IS700z vs IS2100z - Which do I need?
I'm shopping for my first ZTR. I've just about pulled the trigger on a new Ferris IS700z, 61" deck with the 27hp Commercial Turf Briggs. Thought I'd come here and get thoughts from users with actual experience on these machines.
I'm mowing about 6 acres. Some rolling hills, but nothing very extreme. I've been using a very mature Massey 135 with a 6' finish mower. Hoping to cut substantial mowing time.
I'd really like the 2100z. I know a couple people with them and they all love them. One particularly is used on multiple properties, so I know it would be up to handling my yard. However - the price tag really blows my budget. I've driven the 700 and really like it. My only concern is whether it will handle our 6 acres, and will it last.
Anyone have experience with the 700 on acreage this size?
Appreciate any and all thoughts to consider...
Steve
I'm mowing about 6 acres. Some rolling hills, but nothing very extreme. I've been using a very mature Massey 135 with a 6' finish mower. Hoping to cut substantial mowing time.
I'd really like the 2100z. I know a couple people with them and they all love them. One particularly is used on multiple properties, so I know it would be up to handling my yard. However - the price tag really blows my budget. I've driven the 700 and really like it. My only concern is whether it will handle our 6 acres, and will it last.
Anyone have experience with the 700 on acreage this size?
Appreciate any and all thoughts to consider...
Steve
Craftsman AWD 190cc
I am interested in buying one but cant find any reviews on it, anybody know anything about it? Does it work well? Go up a hill with ease? Thanks
How do I wire a John Deere 145 automatic Pto clutch
My John Deere 145 bracket came out of the slot on the PTO clutch and that caused the wiring coming to the clutch to be pulled out and wrapped around the pto clutch . Is there a diagram anywhere I can look at to rewire this . Thank you
Troy built Briggs motor seems to be junk
I bought a Troybuilt with a Briggs 190 eng. Self propelled mower 21 inch. Bought it at the beginning of last season. Worked well for that year, then put it up as I have with every mower I have ever owned since 1979. I took it out and would not start. Had spark no gas. I took the carb off cleaned it and it started but would not stay running. I took it into the local SE shop and was told it was needing a new carb or rebuild. It was 90 bucks either way. The mower is 259 on sale at the local box store new. I asked why this happened and was told that the way they are making them they are very susceptible to gas evaporation and gumming up. I can not see putting that kind of money into a mower every season. I guess you could drain off the gas and let it set for the season an hope it does not gum up. I bought a Ryobi electric mower and it seems to work very well, no oil, gas or noise. Anyone else sick of gas garbage?
Nova II Ignition
I need to replace the points and condenser in one of my older D engine Lawn Boys. Has anyone here tried the Nova II electronic ignition set-up? Does it work on a Lawn Boy engine and are there problems with ignition timing. Is it reliable?
GT 2523 Decal Set - 2004 Model year
Morning,
Checked with the local dealer and the upper sides large CUB Cadet and model on the lower fenders and not avaialble.
Does anyone know where to get them from?
Also, what is the white color code and paint recommendation.
Thanks
Lew
Checked with the local dealer and the upper sides large CUB Cadet and model on the lower fenders and not avaialble.
Does anyone know where to get them from?
Also, what is the white color code and paint recommendation.
Thanks
Lew
Weak spark
Will a BRIGGS AND STRATTON 6.75 HP. Engine start with a weak spark.
I can't even get it to pop,when I look at the plug its wet so it getting gas.
I have to spin it pretty fast with drill to get a weak spark and no spark when I pull by hand.
Thanks.
I can't even get it to pop,when I look at the plug its wet so it getting gas.
I have to spin it pretty fast with drill to get a weak spark and no spark when I pull by hand.
Thanks.
Riding Mower Engine Overheating
I have a Brigg's and Stratton 8 HP on my 30 year old Toro 8-32 riding mower.
It has been overheating after about 45 minutes and before I am finished mowing, and konking out. When it cools down I start it back up and finish mowing.
Does anyone have any idea what might be causing this situation?
Thank you.
It has been overheating after about 45 minutes and before I am finished mowing, and konking out. When it cools down I start it back up and finish mowing.
Does anyone have any idea what might be causing this situation?
Thank you.
IS3100Z with 37 hp Kawasaki cuts out and idles terrible when warmed up
I have a 2013 IS3100Z that ( when cold) fires right up idles fine and mows terrific. But after about 45 minutes of mowing it will occasionally lose power momentarily then catches and runs fine for abit till it does it again. If I stop and idle down will barely keep running or die. Let it sit for 15 minutes or so and it's good till it gets warmed up again. Changed plugs, fuel filter, fuel etc. Maybe a coil package ?? Thanks
Raptor Heat Shield
Installed the heat shield my dealer warrantied for the burnt spots in my grass. It came with the shield and hardware. No box or instructions. But it was a direct bolt on. Took about 3 minutes.
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Repairs All of a sudden slow Idle......
Hello:
I'm a Newbie to this Forum so be gentle!
I have a 22 inch front wheel self propelled Craftsman that is about 10 years old. Everything was running just fine at full rpm's while mowing when all of a sudden the mower just idled down to slow.....and stays there. It doesn't run rough but just a simple slow idle. I took off the air breather to get to the throttle and moving it back and forth doesn't do anything at all! I assume perhaps some linkage has come loose? I did also turn the mower off and then started it back up again and it ran but only at slow idle.
To be fair, I haven't torn it down and apart to see what exactly is going on but wanted a little help from you experts! I'm not an expert but did tear down the carburetor at the beginning of this season to clean up everything up and it ran just fine since then for several mowings.
Thank you in advance for your help!
Frank
I'm a Newbie to this Forum so be gentle!
I have a 22 inch front wheel self propelled Craftsman that is about 10 years old. Everything was running just fine at full rpm's while mowing when all of a sudden the mower just idled down to slow.....and stays there. It doesn't run rough but just a simple slow idle. I took off the air breather to get to the throttle and moving it back and forth doesn't do anything at all! I assume perhaps some linkage has come loose? I did also turn the mower off and then started it back up again and it ran but only at slow idle.
To be fair, I haven't torn it down and apart to see what exactly is going on but wanted a little help from you experts! I'm not an expert but did tear down the carburetor at the beginning of this season to clean up everything up and it ran just fine since then for several mowings.
Thank you in advance for your help!
Frank
HOT HEAD
Has anyone ever seen a bump head on a grass trimmer melted to the gear head. I had to cut the plastic base on the bump head to get it off. Now what would this tell you about the operator? This is on a Kawasaki trimmer.
help choosing a fertilizer for shaded lawn?
hey guys I got a yard that's ok but I think could be a good bit thicker/greener, its pretty shaded an I know that's hurting it a little but I cant help that. whats a good cheap general fertalize I can get at walmart to give it a boost? please be kinda specific so I know exactly what to get. thanks
Hustler Super Z fuel Problem
I have a Super Z with a 25 Kawasaki and it quit running off the left tank. I changed the fuel filter and check the petcock and I'm even getting fuel to the fuel pump from the left tank but when I hook everything up and switch to the left tank the engine dies. Runs fine off the right tank. Very puzzling, any ideas? Thanks
Tires Excessive Front Tire Wear
My buddy & I operate a small mowing service in our hometown (population 800) - we have 12 lawns we care for weekly. Two of the mowers we use are 2008 42" Craftsman & both run fantastic! However, one of them wears out both front tires EVERY YEAR while the other is still running on the originals and they look new!
Can anyone provide some insight? These tires aren't getting any cheaper!!!
Thanks in advance for any help anyone can give.
DB
Can anyone provide some insight? These tires aren't getting any cheaper!!!
Thanks in advance for any help anyone can give.
DB
Hi im a new member
My name is riley and I am working on a 112 John Deere electric lift I am working on putting a 18hp flatehead twin in it
Corn Hole grease for a John Deere walk-behind transmission?
I have a John Deere JS63C walk behind mower with a transmission in need of grease. *Alvania EP-0 grease is recommended but I cannot find it in small quantities. *
Would John Deere's Corn Hole grease be a good substitute? *It has similar specs but is polyurea based instead of lithium based like the Alvania EP-0. *Since it has a different base, would it be wise to fully clean the old grease out of the transmission?
Would John Deere's Corn Hole grease be a good substitute? *It has similar specs but is polyurea based instead of lithium based like the Alvania EP-0. *Since it has a different base, would it be wise to fully clean the old grease out of the transmission?
Honda HHT35S stalls during idle
Hello,
I recently purchased a Honda HHT35S 4-Cycle Weed Trimmer. After getting it all setup out of the package, I started slowly with it following the directions provided and it worked just fine. This is my first time with a gas powered weed trimmer (been using electric), so my experience is limited, but I was able to get it started and trim my yard with no issues. It ran low on gas once and stalled, and once I re-filled it it finished the job fine.
The second time, two weeks, it worked decent, but stalled quite a few times during operation. Start-up was fine but I believe it stalled maybe 8 times total during 30 minutes of trimming.
Today, on my third use of it, I can't get it to start properly. It begins idling as expect with the choke on closed. I move it to open and let it sit. During this period eventually it stalls out and turns off. The more I tried the worse it got. I was able to trim for about 30 seconds at one point, and thats about it.
Anyone have any ideas? My gut tells me its the heat, but I have no idea. Today is really hot compared to its previous uses. Do gas trimmers just not work well in the heat (95 degrees+)?
I watched a tutorial video of starting this model weed trimmer and following it I still end up with it stalling while the guy in the video idles fine while it warms up. My oil level looks identical to his, the gas tank is full, the fuel line looks full after I press the priming bulb.
Thanks in advance for any help you can provide!
I recently purchased a Honda HHT35S 4-Cycle Weed Trimmer. After getting it all setup out of the package, I started slowly with it following the directions provided and it worked just fine. This is my first time with a gas powered weed trimmer (been using electric), so my experience is limited, but I was able to get it started and trim my yard with no issues. It ran low on gas once and stalled, and once I re-filled it it finished the job fine.
The second time, two weeks, it worked decent, but stalled quite a few times during operation. Start-up was fine but I believe it stalled maybe 8 times total during 30 minutes of trimming.
Today, on my third use of it, I can't get it to start properly. It begins idling as expect with the choke on closed. I move it to open and let it sit. During this period eventually it stalls out and turns off. The more I tried the worse it got. I was able to trim for about 30 seconds at one point, and thats about it.
Anyone have any ideas? My gut tells me its the heat, but I have no idea. Today is really hot compared to its previous uses. Do gas trimmers just not work well in the heat (95 degrees+)?
I watched a tutorial video of starting this model weed trimmer and following it I still end up with it stalling while the guy in the video idles fine while it warms up. My oil level looks identical to his, the gas tank is full, the fuel line looks full after I press the priming bulb.
Thanks in advance for any help you can provide!
Lever doesn't move into reverse on Hydrogear transaxle
Craftsman 917.275662 built August 05. I just bought it at a garage sale, and everything works great except shifter will not move more than an inch or so into reverse. With lots of pressure on the shift lever I can make it inch its way backwards. Goes forward like it's supposed to. I saw a thread on here from years ago with the exact same problem but never saw any solution. Has anyone any experience with this kind of problem. In my opinion it could have nothing to do with oil but must be a mechanical problem, either in linkage, adjustment, or I suppose something inside the gearbox could be not allowing it to move as it should. I know nothing about HOW this is supposed to work to get it to travel the length of the shifter slot.
Thanks from Cambre
Thanks to all who helped me with my Kohler. A new battery and a new starter cured the problem. Thanks again, Cambre
D105 No spark when hot
I have a JD D105 that is about 2 years old. Lately, when the motor is hot, it will not restart. Once it cools off, it fires right up and works great. Any idea what is causing this? Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance.
Murray riding lawn tractor model #400600x8 turns but does not start
I have this murray lawn tractor that did not turn at first. I checked and found that fuse was burned out so I replaced it. Now it turns but won't start. I figured it is something with a safety switch so I bypassed the seat safety switch and now it turns on but as soon as I release the brake/clutch it turns off. I checked the safety switch and it seems to be working properly but am not sure because my multimeter is a cheaper one. Could this be that I just need to replace this safety switch or is it the clutch safety switch (which I cannot find anywhere)? Please let me know if anyone has any ideas, I have the tractor in my driveway and can't move it cause it does not have a neutral position and is very heavy to drag cause it's in park when off. Thank you
New member, Ontario
Just received my new Canadian-spec Craftsman T3200 944.604311. As far as I can tell, this is basically a black 917.20390 with an electric PTO and the K46 transmission.
I did a lot of research including here and it's been very helpful. Thank you.
This replaces a 1993 AYP Yard Pro 12hp 38". The Yard Pro is still going, but I decided it was time for an upgrade.
I did a lot of research including here and it's been very helpful. Thank you.
This replaces a 1993 AYP Yard Pro 12hp 38". The Yard Pro is still going, but I decided it was time for an upgrade.
Top 5 Preventative Maintenance Tips from Husqvarna Dealers
A couple of days? Or a couple of weeks? That’s the decision homeowners and professional landscapers sometimes face in choosing to have their outdoor power equipment serviced [...]
Read this article on LawnWorld
Read this article on LawnWorld
18hp intek fouling plug and slow to turn over on start
First post so be gentle.
Have craftsman lt2000 with Intek 18hp single cyl. I have 2 problems with it. One is difficulty turning over on start. Battery is good so i think its the relay. I have tapped the side wall where relay is bolted and it seems to get it to connect better. Can this relay (think thats what it is) be rebuilt or cleaned up to give correct starting or does it need to be replaced?
Next problem is fouling of plugs. After 10hrs the plug is black and oily and has to be cleaned and the engine uses notable amounts of oil. I have adjusted valves, were pretty good anyway. Thinking rings or valve guides. Dont have compression check yet. Suggestions for rebuilding the top end? Any youtube videos or instructions you recommend?
Thx
Bonose
Have craftsman lt2000 with Intek 18hp single cyl. I have 2 problems with it. One is difficulty turning over on start. Battery is good so i think its the relay. I have tapped the side wall where relay is bolted and it seems to get it to connect better. Can this relay (think thats what it is) be rebuilt or cleaned up to give correct starting or does it need to be replaced?
Next problem is fouling of plugs. After 10hrs the plug is black and oily and has to be cleaned and the engine uses notable amounts of oil. I have adjusted valves, were pretty good anyway. Thinking rings or valve guides. Dont have compression check yet. Suggestions for rebuilding the top end? Any youtube videos or instructions you recommend?
Thx
Bonose
mardi 23 juin 2015
New Member
Came here to hopefully find knowledgeable folks. Just purchased a used Dixon ZTR. Trying to find the model and such. Only info I can find so far is the serial number. Any advice?
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Question about the mower deck
There are 6 to 8 small bolts across the very front of the deck. They are attached to two separate "bars" on the inside of the deck. These bolts allow you to lower the two bars below the bottom edge of the deck. What is the function, purpose or benefit lowering these bars? Can't locate this info in the Op Man.
Thank you,
Jeffrey
Thank you,
Jeffrey
DuroMax generator 7hp will not start
I have a new DuroMax 4400E generator,I tried starting,did not start.Gas had been sitting in tank for over a year,drained gas and replaced with fresh gas,still no start,I
removed carb and cleaned it,still no start,squirted starting fluid,did try to run.
Until this,the generator always started easily.It sat for 5 months with gas valve closed.
Generator always covered and in shelter.Carb like new,Any help or idea's are appreciated.
Mower shops will not offer repair and DuroMax offers no service.
removed carb and cleaned it,still no start,squirted starting fluid,did try to run.
Until this,the generator always started easily.It sat for 5 months with gas valve closed.
Generator always covered and in shelter.Carb like new,Any help or idea's are appreciated.
Mower shops will not offer repair and DuroMax offers no service.
Z turn Recommendations appreciated
Have 2 25+ year old Kubota tractors that have given good service. Looking to get a zero turn to help cut around many trees put in over the years.
I don't believe I need a diesel unit to mow the areas contemplated and I'm not retiring the kubota 8200HST, for a number of reasons. Which unit
would be suggested to mow an acre + every week and very occasionally do the whole five+ acres when I'm servicing the B8200. I'm rebuilding the
the deck now.
In the 70's through early 80's i would run a Onan twin into the ground in four/five seasons and switched to diesels and never looked back.
Are the air cooled up to the task now or should I pop for the Diesel. Are there any issues with the new Diesel engines. Thanks all.
I don't believe I need a diesel unit to mow the areas contemplated and I'm not retiring the kubota 8200HST, for a number of reasons. Which unit
would be suggested to mow an acre + every week and very occasionally do the whole five+ acres when I'm servicing the B8200. I'm rebuilding the
the deck now.
In the 70's through early 80's i would run a Onan twin into the ground in four/five seasons and switched to diesels and never looked back.
Are the air cooled up to the task now or should I pop for the Diesel. Are there any issues with the new Diesel engines. Thanks all.
OHV Cover leak and Question
On my new self-propelled mower, there's an oil leak of some sort by one of the bolts on the OHV cover plate. Is it leaking because of loose bolts or because I added too much oil to the engine?
Repairs Sears EZ Walk 7.25 Variable Drive cable
Hi..
I have an EZ Walk, 7.25 mower. I believe the drive cable has broken, as there is no tension in the handles. However, I cannot figure out how to get to the cable. I cannot find my manual and cannot find a way to download one online. There are no videos that I can find either on Youtube. Can someone please please help me? I just bought this mower from someone that was moving, and it is in excellent condition. Not a scratch. The minute I get it, a fuse blows, now this. Please help! Thanks!
Lisa in WV
I have an EZ Walk, 7.25 mower. I believe the drive cable has broken, as there is no tension in the handles. However, I cannot figure out how to get to the cable. I cannot find my manual and cannot find a way to download one online. There are no videos that I can find either on Youtube. Can someone please please help me? I just bought this mower from someone that was moving, and it is in excellent condition. Not a scratch. The minute I get it, a fuse blows, now this. Please help! Thanks!
Lisa in WV
Advice on replacing the deck bearings on my ol' 111
Two deck bearings that are like this....
http://ift.tt/1LsM5vy
and the (three ?) bearings that are in the two other pulleys al la..
http://ift.tt/1GxQg1L
I'm not sure of the provenance of this mower. Friend just gave it to me. It's old and worn, but will handle another decade the way I like to take care of machinery. As necessary I can provide numbers or more photos.
Can anyone save me some foot work on whether and/or how to replace these bearings? Are the spindle bearings pressed in or must the entire hub be purchased? Is there a source of bearing sizes/type for full replacement of these deck parts?
Thanks so much. As far as removal, installation, pressing, etc, I'm confident with that part. I'm only looking for some heads up parts and sourcing advice from anyone who's "been there".
Thanks so much.
http://ift.tt/1LsM5vy
and the (three ?) bearings that are in the two other pulleys al la..
http://ift.tt/1GxQg1L
I'm not sure of the provenance of this mower. Friend just gave it to me. It's old and worn, but will handle another decade the way I like to take care of machinery. As necessary I can provide numbers or more photos.
Can anyone save me some foot work on whether and/or how to replace these bearings? Are the spindle bearings pressed in or must the entire hub be purchased? Is there a source of bearing sizes/type for full replacement of these deck parts?
Thanks so much. As far as removal, installation, pressing, etc, I'm confident with that part. I'm only looking for some heads up parts and sourcing advice from anyone who's "been there".
Thanks so much.
John Deer LX255 Don't start
Let renters use the mower, it had only been run 3 times when I had to move. told them to take care of yard, well they left key on as well as light. (I think they forgot it until it ran out of gas) the next dumb thing was to jump it w/ a car. Now it don't run, smoke come out of wiring board on engine side of dash. Any body have any thoughts ?????
Troy built XP 21" rear bagger rear wheel drive mower
I have a 2010 XP rear bagger rear wheel drive mower made in 2010 and it sat basically al winter and when we used it in the spring the rear wheels are locking up when trying to pull mower back. I took the rear wheels off and cleaned gears and lubed with dry molly and they look good but it still does it.
Yard Man W814H
Hello all,
I have a PTO issue and I checked on the forum and almost got what I needed but not quite. It all started when I did a blade replacement after messing up the center blade on a chunk of concrete. Replaced all 3 and then the PTO started to cut out after about 10 min of mowing I quit left it over night. Tried it again same thing. When clutch kicked out I could reset it with the PTO switch but the PTO on was shorter and after many resets it would barely reset. I'm thinking it's a thermal problem. Is the clutch controlled by the switch alone or is there a relay in the circuit also since you have to push then pull the knob for a reset? I would appreciate any help and thanks in advance.
Best Regards,
Ridgez28
I have a PTO issue and I checked on the forum and almost got what I needed but not quite. It all started when I did a blade replacement after messing up the center blade on a chunk of concrete. Replaced all 3 and then the PTO started to cut out after about 10 min of mowing I quit left it over night. Tried it again same thing. When clutch kicked out I could reset it with the PTO switch but the PTO on was shorter and after many resets it would barely reset. I'm thinking it's a thermal problem. Is the clutch controlled by the switch alone or is there a relay in the circuit also since you have to push then pull the knob for a reset? I would appreciate any help and thanks in advance.
Best Regards,
Ridgez28
Yard Man starting issues
I'm trying to help a friend with his mower. Its a cannabalized Yard Man with 42" deck and a different 17 hp Briggs powered. Starts and runs fine until its warm and is shut off, then it refuses to start. Acts like some fuel/carb issue, but not very sure what I'm doing. Any ideas?? Thanks in advance. Gearjammer
Troy-Bilt TB230 Self-propelled Lawn Mower Question
Hello, I have a question on the TB230 Troy-Bilt lawn mower. I inspected all around the lawn mower and under the OHV cover plate, I recovered some oil on my finger. Is this a problem or is this the reason you don't have to change the oil all the time and just 'check & add?'
Troy-Bilt TB230 Self-propelled Mower Problem
Hello fellows, I'm very concerned about the OHV cover on the 7.25HP mower I have recently bought 6 days ago. Below the OHV cover is oil, I felt the bottom of the OHV cover and there was oil on my finger. Is this normal as it says with the manual that you don't ever have to change the oil, just add when needed? Or, is it a gasket failure or does the cover need to be tightened equally on each bolt again? Thanks.
Engine Slow Idle RPM
Hi everyone. The factory setting on my Grasshopper 725DT seems to idle to fast to suit me. It has 498hrs on it and I think idle RPMs went up after it broke in. I don't like this when its cold. Would it hurt anything to slow the idle down and how do you do it? Thanks
small ride-on mower for relatively rough terrain?
WHO MAKES A RELATIVELY SMALL/NARROW MOWER THAT CAN HANDLE TERRAIN A BIT ROUGH?
I've had a Husky, and just burned thru an old White. My lawn is pretty level, but I also have about a 3 acre horse pasture that is a bit rougher. it seems the small font wheels on these and most mowers have a tough time getting thru, with the lumps and bumps in my horse pasture. Eventually I snap suspension parts and other stuff.
the easy fix would be a bigger mower, but I need a relatively small cutting deck so it can fit into the back of my pick-up, so i can travel the 5 miles to another similar property i own and occasionally mow.
Anybody make a ride-on mower that is relatively narrow BUT STILL able to handle some terrain not perfectly smooth?
I've had a Husky, and just burned thru an old White. My lawn is pretty level, but I also have about a 3 acre horse pasture that is a bit rougher. it seems the small font wheels on these and most mowers have a tough time getting thru, with the lumps and bumps in my horse pasture. Eventually I snap suspension parts and other stuff.
the easy fix would be a bigger mower, but I need a relatively small cutting deck so it can fit into the back of my pick-up, so i can travel the 5 miles to another similar property i own and occasionally mow.
Anybody make a ride-on mower that is relatively narrow BUT STILL able to handle some terrain not perfectly smooth?
huntlu
Hi i own a f935 john deer 76 inch deck with rear discharge.I was wondering if it is possible to replace deck spindles with 72 inch deck spindles as 76 inch spindles are hard to find.
B&S 6.75 Sputter/Misfire Diagnosis
New to the forum and pretty much confused about my mower. I have a craftsman mower with a B&S 6.75 L-Head engine on it. Over the last year or two it's developed a sort of sputtering problem. It isn't losing much power, but there's a noticeable miss every now and then. Sometimes a few in a row.
So far I've: Replaced and gapped the plug to .030, changed the oil, pulled the carb off and rebuilt it. I should note that there wasn't any junk in the carb but I did replace a broken gasket between it and the air filter housing. I replaced the bowl gasket, bottom nut gasket, and o-ring where the carb attaches to the cylinder. I also replaced the float pin, needle and seat. I ran a pin through all the jets and hit them with quite a lot of carb cleaner. When I put it back together there wasn't a bit of improvement. I've also added seafoam to the fuel tank with other additives over time.
I'm beginning to wonder if it's a valve problem or timing issue that's affecting the spark. I'm thinking of pulling the flywheel to inspect the key. The key was replaced several years ago after an unfortunate incident with a tree stump. It ran fine after the replacement however. The mower doesn't use any oil. I pulled the head and the valves appeared to be functioning fine, but that was just a visual inspection. I also re-torqued the head bolts to ensure I wasn't losing any compression.
I'm at a loss now, any help would be appreciated. I'm thinking of pulling the flywheel this afternoon for an inspection. I'll report back with what I find.
So far I've: Replaced and gapped the plug to .030, changed the oil, pulled the carb off and rebuilt it. I should note that there wasn't any junk in the carb but I did replace a broken gasket between it and the air filter housing. I replaced the bowl gasket, bottom nut gasket, and o-ring where the carb attaches to the cylinder. I also replaced the float pin, needle and seat. I ran a pin through all the jets and hit them with quite a lot of carb cleaner. When I put it back together there wasn't a bit of improvement. I've also added seafoam to the fuel tank with other additives over time.
I'm beginning to wonder if it's a valve problem or timing issue that's affecting the spark. I'm thinking of pulling the flywheel to inspect the key. The key was replaced several years ago after an unfortunate incident with a tree stump. It ran fine after the replacement however. The mower doesn't use any oil. I pulled the head and the valves appeared to be functioning fine, but that was just a visual inspection. I also re-torqued the head bolts to ensure I wasn't losing any compression.
I'm at a loss now, any help would be appreciated. I'm thinking of pulling the flywheel this afternoon for an inspection. I'll report back with what I find.
dyt 4000 blades wont engage w/o stalling engine
dyt 4000 model#917.273620 24hp briggs
when I pull the pto the engine stalls.so i made sure nothing was froze and spun freely ....
kept playing with knob and i found a happy medium that the blades turned,but the switch wasnt locked in the "on".so here i thought HEY its gotta be the switch
bought new one and installed and still at square one
could anyone tell me how or have a link on the proper way to adjust the electic clutch.?
I dont want to tighten or loosen 2 much and screw it up worse
thanks for reading
when I pull the pto the engine stalls.so i made sure nothing was froze and spun freely ....
kept playing with knob and i found a happy medium that the blades turned,but the switch wasnt locked in the "on".so here i thought HEY its gotta be the switch
bought new one and installed and still at square one
could anyone tell me how or have a link on the proper way to adjust the electic clutch.?
I dont want to tighten or loosen 2 much and screw it up worse
thanks for reading
CV15 running too rich, stumped on this one...
Hello,
I have a kohler CV15S on a craftsman mower that is giving me issues.
symptoms
It surges and puffs black smoke out the exhaust and only levels out when i shut the fuel off right before it runs out if gas.
Fuel in oil
compression is at 60PSI
Configuration of motor
gravity fed fuel with no ignition module. Just a coil and a plug. Right now i have the shut down lead off the coil.
attempts to repair
New Plug
brand new carb
oiled cylinder and re checked compression - still 60PSI and holds there- turned the motor over 5 cycles to try to get accurate reading.
changed oil - no change
New Coil - set clearance with business card - no change.
the valves seem to be operating correctly (no valve noise) - use 10w-30 oil
governor spring still attached
took off air cleaner - still getting too much fuel
can anyone help me out, i am completely out of ideas....
I have a kohler CV15S on a craftsman mower that is giving me issues.
symptoms
It surges and puffs black smoke out the exhaust and only levels out when i shut the fuel off right before it runs out if gas.
Fuel in oil
compression is at 60PSI
Configuration of motor
gravity fed fuel with no ignition module. Just a coil and a plug. Right now i have the shut down lead off the coil.
attempts to repair
New Plug
brand new carb
oiled cylinder and re checked compression - still 60PSI and holds there- turned the motor over 5 cycles to try to get accurate reading.
changed oil - no change
New Coil - set clearance with business card - no change.
the valves seem to be operating correctly (no valve noise) - use 10w-30 oil
governor spring still attached
took off air cleaner - still getting too much fuel
can anyone help me out, i am completely out of ideas....
700z
just got a 700z and I am not happy with the ride in the front are there anything any one has tired to do to make it better I have a hustler with flex forks and it rides better than this fancy ferris
lundi 22 juin 2015
Installed Raptor engine guard today
Only took a little over 5 minutes to unpack and bolt it on. Extremely easy and in my opinion really changes the look of the entire mower! I had nightmares about ripping my engine off hot rodding around a pecan tree so hopefully that's no longer a worry. Pro tip: make sure your muffler is cool before reaching in to install the nuts. I wasn't aware it would be roughly the temperature of the sun in just 45 seconds after riding it to the front of my house. Next up, LED lights!
LX 255 JD
Great tractor..42C mower deck beyond help..Need a DECK..38-44..Is there a list of tractor models that Decks will interchange/ with my LX255 ..If so please Inform me ..THX dan
OLd new member
Almost 70 .NAVY Vet,AO2 Retired frm chemical industry 10y ago...Always got something to work on.. Fish /Hunt/casino/camp/Travel a little wife got family Wis/Ill/
Az/Cal..Mine are all within 30m of texas mid coast where we live
John deere 2020 1967
John deere Gx95 1996
John deere Lx255 1999
16x60 John boat with 50 mercury 2003
27f Mobil Scout Camper
01 4x4 jeep cherokee
03 Dodge 2500 cumins
Az/Cal..Mine are all within 30m of texas mid coast where we live
John deere 2020 1967
John deere Gx95 1996
John deere Lx255 1999
16x60 John boat with 50 mercury 2003
27f Mobil Scout Camper
01 4x4 jeep cherokee
03 Dodge 2500 cumins
1993 MTD "Bad to the Bone" transmission issues
1993 MTD "Bad to the Bone" model 133m660g352
My riding mower has trouble shifting between gears. It does not matter if the engine is running or not. Sometimes, to get it shift between gears, I have to heave my body weight forward and backwards to get it to click into gear. There are other times, when the shifter will not budge and it wants to stay in forward/ reverse. Which can be frightening when you have the parking brake on but it still rolls forward because it is stuck in that position. I don't know if it is the actual transmission or the shifter. What do you all think?
My riding mower has trouble shifting between gears. It does not matter if the engine is running or not. Sometimes, to get it shift between gears, I have to heave my body weight forward and backwards to get it to click into gear. There are other times, when the shifter will not budge and it wants to stay in forward/ reverse. Which can be frightening when you have the parking brake on but it still rolls forward because it is stuck in that position. I don't know if it is the actual transmission or the shifter. What do you all think?
Engine replacement
I have a B&S 128M02 0115-f1-12020858 engine that's been problematic since new, thinking about replacing the engine vs. buying another new mower.
The mower itself is very good condition no more than 12-15 hours of use, is it worth replacing the engine or should I just buy yet another new mower?
If I do replace the engine, what B&S would have the same crankshaft diameter/length and crankcase bolt pattern?
The mower itself is very good condition no more than 12-15 hours of use, is it worth replacing the engine or should I just buy yet another new mower?
If I do replace the engine, what B&S would have the same crankshaft diameter/length and crankcase bolt pattern?
Problems with governor
I have a 2012 B&S (128M02 0115-f1-12020858) with an auto-choke one pull start.
The governor is connected to a lever coming up from the muffler, the lever is part of the one-pull start and run system, when the engine is cold the governor position allows for the choke to be engaged and as it warms up the choke opens. The problem is this thermo-controlled lever position is erratic causing the engine to slow or even stall. When the engine has run for a while the governor position causes the engine to die, manually adjusting the governor will stabilize engine rpm.
Is this thermo-controlled governor part a known issue with some B&S engines?
The governor is connected to a lever coming up from the muffler, the lever is part of the one-pull start and run system, when the engine is cold the governor position allows for the choke to be engaged and as it warms up the choke opens. The problem is this thermo-controlled lever position is erratic causing the engine to slow or even stall. When the engine has run for a while the governor position causes the engine to die, manually adjusting the governor will stabilize engine rpm.
Is this thermo-controlled governor part a known issue with some B&S engines?
Stalled out on a branch and now won't start
I've got a 932 grasshopper with a 72in front deck. When mowing I "found" a branch in some taller weeds that jammed the deck and stalled out the motor. Now I can't get it to start. It does not turn over. What am I missing? It worked flawlessly before that. I'm needing a little direction . I inherited this from my parents and had it for about 6wks.
B&S won't start hot
Good evening. I have a B&S 120000 series vertical shaft, OHV engine that won't start when hot. I've tried all the tips I could find with no success. I've cleaned the carb, replaced the rings and head gasket (no ridge on the cylinder), set valves to .006, replaced the coil, tested the flywheel magnetism, ck carb spacers and replaced the plug. It has fresh gas and clean air filter. I'm not sure where to go from here. Any help would be greatly appreciated!
Help B&S 17.5 Intek
Hi, need help.
I have a Ariens ride on with a 17.5 BS Intek (Model 31G777) which will not start. It turns over slowly and struggles on the compression stroke (often stalling completely). I have reset the valve clearance as per spec (.003-5 intake. .005-7 exhaust) 1/4" before TDC.No joy. On removal of spark plug engine turns fine so I am assuming it is not the starter motor. Even jumping from a fresh power source does not help,
How can I check to see if the compression relief system is working properly as I think this is at the root of the problem?
Any help/advise appreciated. Prior to this the engine was running fine.
I have a Ariens ride on with a 17.5 BS Intek (Model 31G777) which will not start. It turns over slowly and struggles on the compression stroke (often stalling completely). I have reset the valve clearance as per spec (.003-5 intake. .005-7 exhaust) 1/4" before TDC.No joy. On removal of spark plug engine turns fine so I am assuming it is not the starter motor. Even jumping from a fresh power source does not help,
How can I check to see if the compression relief system is working properly as I think this is at the root of the problem?
Any help/advise appreciated. Prior to this the engine was running fine.
maintenance before using- sitting around 20 years
Hi; Can someone tell me what I should do before starting a lawn mower which has been sitting around for about 20 years? By the way, how much oil do I use for a machine that separates the oil and gas? Thanks for your help. mr. dibs
3.5hp briggs question-----carb????
I have an old pushmower with a briggs engine, model 92902,type1982 01. I have replaced the diaphragm for the carb. and still have the same issue. it will only run if I hold the throttle wide open. it will not run even at half throttle. I have the throttle cable unhooked and am operating the throttle shaft with my finger. any ideas what to do next. thanks in advance
Cub Cadet Walk Behind Surges
I have a 2008 self propelled cub cadet model # 12AE18JA056 with a 173CC motor, and auto choke and throttle. It surges constantly. I cleaned the carburetor, fuel lines, and tank thoroughly. Changed the oil and spark plug. Tightened and un-tightened the springs. Nothing works. When I manually push on the lever attached to the governor, it idles perfectly. Conversely, when I pull it, it revs high and smooth, but as soon as I release the lever, it does the same thing- surging up and down. Help!
Scag Cheetah VS Ferris 3200, really tough call!
I posted earlier on which motor is best for 61" Cheetah, almost settled. To be safe, I found a Ferris dealer and drove a new 3200 with the 37HP Kawa expecting to hate it?an, was I wrong. Loved it! I have been driving Scag for 10 years for farm use and am a huge fan of Scag quality.
About same price for the Cheetah with 31 kawa and the Ferris 3200 with the 37 Kawa. A lot of money and I don't want to blow this, any help would be so much appreciated.
1) My impression is Scag is a little better built, heavier deck, etc. Agree? If so, is it significant. I am using for farm and a few family fall clean-ups. Maybe 100 hours a year.
2) The ICD deck is decent but it was dry. Does it do OK with damp or wet grass without clogging?
3) Are there any huge problems with the new model 3200? I saw a few posts on belt issues etc but hard to tell if that is a big deal?
4) Again, since all of my history is Scag I feel like I am going out on a limb. Anything else I need to know about Ferris 3200?
This topic is broad but I will take any/all opinions as part of my decision.
Thanks!
About same price for the Cheetah with 31 kawa and the Ferris 3200 with the 37 Kawa. A lot of money and I don't want to blow this, any help would be so much appreciated.
1) My impression is Scag is a little better built, heavier deck, etc. Agree? If so, is it significant. I am using for farm and a few family fall clean-ups. Maybe 100 hours a year.
2) The ICD deck is decent but it was dry. Does it do OK with damp or wet grass without clogging?
3) Are there any huge problems with the new model 3200? I saw a few posts on belt issues etc but hard to tell if that is a big deal?
4) Again, since all of my history is Scag I feel like I am going out on a limb. Anything else I need to know about Ferris 3200?
This topic is broad but I will take any/all opinions as part of my decision.
Thanks!
Kohler 15.5 OHV - runs rough / smoke and gas out exhaust at start
I have a Kohhler 15.5 on a Craftsman rider. It runs / cuts but runs rough and spits gas and black smoke when I start it. It always starts but doesn't start as easily as it use to. I bought this rider used for $350 4 years ago and have only novice small engine repair skills so I am wondering if it's worth getting it looked at or should I just start shopping?
Thanks,
Jim
Thanks,
Jim
Mower deck Lower Center Blade Cut on JD 657 Stander
My JD 657 was starting to cut lower at the center blade compared to the two outside blades, so I changed them all to stock blades thinking one might be overly warn or bent slightly. Now the uneven cut is even more noticeable. When examined, they appear even and level across all three over a hard surface. The lower cut is constant, meaning not wavy. The spindle doesn't appear to have any play.
I tried to lower the height setting, from the second highest to the third highest, but it started basically scalping at the dirt.
Any thoughts to help would be greatly appreciated at this point.
Jimmy
I tried to lower the height setting, from the second highest to the third highest, but it started basically scalping at the dirt.
Any thoughts to help would be greatly appreciated at this point.
Jimmy
low compression and blowing back thru carb
15.5 Briggs only has 50 psi compression and when cranking it blows back thru carb. Wont even fire on starting fluid, just backfires thru carb. Does this sound like bad valves??? Or could low compression, be pushing past rings and blowing out thru carb. Where to start on this? Any problem areas on this engine to look for?
thanks Rick
thanks Rick
Woods Mow'n Machine
I have a Woods F21D Mow'n Machine with a D612T deck approximately 12 years old. It has given good service but the front wheels on the deck have excessive "wobble".
Was there a fix for this that my dealer failed to install?
Thanks,
Was there a fix for this that my dealer failed to install?
Thanks,
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