My mower wont turn over with the key. It will start when I jump the solenoid, but then the pto button will not engage the blades. The pto switch was replaced last year. Any suggestions?
lundi 31 août 2015
ZT HD 48 hydro leak.
Well after about 1 year old and roughly 30hrs my mower is down. Hydro leak under the right motor. It's been making more noise lately on the deck didn't really think much of it. After cutting the last couple of times I noticed a puddle of oil under the right hydro. Called the dealer and hey recommended I bring it in right away. No news on the resolution been about a week. I hope this is the last issue I get with the machine! A lot of $ for it to be broken so soon, only 30hrs. Anyone else experience this issue?
John Deere Introduces MulchControl™ for Residential Mower
John*Deere now offers a MulchControl™ option for the 54-inch and 60-inch high-capacity mower decks on select residential riding and zero-turn radius mowers. The innovative MulchControl option enables [...]
Read this article on LawnWorld
Read this article on LawnWorld
Kohler Courage problems!!! Please help!
I inherited a Cub Cadet RZT 50 with the Kohler Courage SV720 (PS-SV720-0012) when my father passed away in October of 2014. When I got the mower it was slow to crank (turning over slowly), but once it started it ran great. Over the course of the past year it had slowly gotten worse. I replaced the battery (the one in it had some age) and it seemed to remedy the problem, at least temporarily. The other day I went to crank it and it was significantly slower. I tried jumping it off, as I have done plenty of times, to no avail. So I did a little research. I adjusted the valves and still no go. While the spark plugs were removed I tried turning the engine over by hand and it turned over quite easy. I also turned it over with the starter and as expected turned over quite fast.
So here I am wondering if it is the starter, maybe the starter solenoid, or even the compression release mechanism on the camshaft (as I understand).
I had never seen my dad use this mower so I don't know if this was typical behavior while he had it or not. He was not one to complain about much, just thankful for what he had.
Can someone please point me in the right direction? Suggestions and/or advice will be greatly appreciated!
So here I am wondering if it is the starter, maybe the starter solenoid, or even the compression release mechanism on the camshaft (as I understand).
I had never seen my dad use this mower so I don't know if this was typical behavior while he had it or not. He was not one to complain about much, just thankful for what he had.
Can someone please point me in the right direction? Suggestions and/or advice will be greatly appreciated!
Mower deck
I have a 1525 cub cadet lawn mower the deck engages for a few seconds and then stops. It has a new clutch assembly on the mower I have power to the clutch when testing with a test light. Has anyone evr experienced this problem if so where do I look for the repair.
Cub cadet ztr 50
Mower lacks power on hills. I just got this mower used. Don't have a manual so my question is.
Does this mower have a filter for the transmission or do I need to change fluids. If so what typ of oil and how much.
Does anyone no were I can get a Matinance manual. Thanks
Does this mower have a filter for the transmission or do I need to change fluids. If so what typ of oil and how much.
Does anyone no were I can get a Matinance manual. Thanks
Parts Compatibility and Shop Manual
I recently purchased a Troy-Bilt TB30R riding mower. I was wondering if MTD parts are compatible with this model? Also, I'm looking for a shop repair manual for this model; preferably a PDF download file.
Confused about belts on riding lawn mower
According to my owners manual the ground drive belt is #130801 and the mower belt is #144959. They are both the same size, 1/2" x 95", but they have different part numbers.
Looking at the belts on Amazon they list both of the same part numbers as above as being the same belt.
What am I missing?
Looking at the belts on Amazon they list both of the same part numbers as above as being the same belt.
What am I missing?
Ignition coil patents of interest: trimmers, chainsaws , lawnmowers
First an explanation to Bert . I had promised a PM , but the patents may be of interest to other forum visitors. There are many problems in the forum concerning "no spark" and what to do. The patent articles are very technical, but the summaries are in English and worth reading. These coils have been constantly improved. Among the benefits to readers will be how complex these modules are and so can not be easily tested. Next , to me , great insight into timing which some readers have questioned, Type in a search word "US" followed by the 7 digits. Do not "turn off" due to the schematics, etc.
US 5295465 (Kohler 1994))
US 3484677A (Magnetron) 1969
US 6388445 (Walbro timing)
US 4817577 (Briggs 1988))
US 8807119 (Ti Gp 2014 timng and anti- kickback)
US 5058543A (Stens 1991)
US 3894525 (Bosch "thick film" chip)
EP 1691053B1 (Walbro)
US 5295465 (Kohler 1994))
US 3484677A (Magnetron) 1969
US 6388445 (Walbro timing)
US 4817577 (Briggs 1988))
US 8807119 (Ti Gp 2014 timng and anti- kickback)
US 5058543A (Stens 1991)
US 3894525 (Bosch "thick film" chip)
EP 1691053B1 (Walbro)
Battery terminal bolts dissovling.
Rider mower, 12v battery.
I have had to replace the bolts many times. These are the latest. The negative terminal bolt is fine, the positive terminal bolt is dissolving away where it is exposed to air. I tried using stainless steel bolts last time but they don't last either. I think I used some of that battery post grease they sell at the auto stores. Yesterday when the mower would not start, I took the cover off and found the positive post covered under a mount of red foamy goop. What's going on? I think I tried brass bolts & nuts before with similar results. Would copper bolts help? I've had to replace the positive battery cable before but it does last much longer than the bolts. The terminals are normal lead covered, the cable end is a regular electrical terminal. Is this from overcharging? What should the voltage be? I think it is very strange that the parts of the nuts & bolts exposed to the air are the parts that are dissolving. You can see the "before & after" effects. (negative bolt & positive bolt).
IMG_1375 by rickpaulos, on Flickr
IMG_1376 by rickpaulos, on Flickr
I have had to replace the bolts many times. These are the latest. The negative terminal bolt is fine, the positive terminal bolt is dissolving away where it is exposed to air. I tried using stainless steel bolts last time but they don't last either. I think I used some of that battery post grease they sell at the auto stores. Yesterday when the mower would not start, I took the cover off and found the positive post covered under a mount of red foamy goop. What's going on? I think I tried brass bolts & nuts before with similar results. Would copper bolts help? I've had to replace the positive battery cable before but it does last much longer than the bolts. The terminals are normal lead covered, the cable end is a regular electrical terminal. Is this from overcharging? What should the voltage be? I think it is very strange that the parts of the nuts & bolts exposed to the air are the parts that are dissolving. You can see the "before & after" effects. (negative bolt & positive bolt).
IMG_1375 by rickpaulos, on FlickrIMG_1376 by rickpaulos, on FlickrNew coil no spark
I have a Lawn boy model 4600 with the f motor which has a ground terminal on one of the screws for the coil and a terminal on the coil itself. I installed an aftermarket coil for an f motor but have no spark Is this new style coil being shorted out somehow or did I get a bad coil out of the box? I bought 3 of this style coil and installed the other 2 with no problems but the 4600 must have a different wiring system.
Unusual wear on blade w/Zoysia
I have a lawnboy 21" Goldseries 2-cycle and after 4 cuts I swap blades and sharpen. From 2" of the tip of the blade end the blade they always taper in for about 3" long. This always makes it more time consuming to sharpen the blade to have to smooth that out. I have the mulch kit on it as well and haven't tried taking it off.
I have 3 blades and they all do it. Any ideas why this mower blade would do that?
I have 3 blades and they all do it. Any ideas why this mower blade would do that?
dimanche 30 août 2015
Nearly New Rider Mower won't run smooth
Hello, My very first post as new member. Hope someone can help me.
I have a Craftsman YT3000, model no. 917.271635, 2014 model, engine B & S, 33187,type no. 2371-G!, 21 HP single cylinder. I bought it last year at end of the season & used it 1 1/2 hrs. and then stored it. Upon starting it backup this year,
the engine is surging at idle, bad. Under a load or when engaging the blades it does much better & runs pretty good but still surges lightly. I have taken the carb. apart cleaned it, new kit, new fuel filter,new spark plug, fresh fuel, adjusted the idle screw which nothing seems to help. It looks like the governor arm is moving the throttle back and forth-without a load on the engine. A retired mechanic told me that the values may have seated in after running a while and no value clearance. I told him I might need to adjust the value clearance. He said you cannot, that type engine has no adjustment on them. I do seem to smell a rich exhaust mixture when it running & in idle. I don't think it is carburetor related, as
everything I have done to it, does not seem to help. It now has 3 hours on it and still surges, bad, at idle. I am thinking it might be the governor? It is still in warranty but I must haul it some 75 miles to a Sears repair facility and my last experience, I never got my mower back, after several months and got a refund. I do like the mower and would like to keep it, if I can fix this problem. I last week looked at the new mowers this model & they used a different engine than mine.
I have heard of a 2013 same model & engine with very same problem. Any ideas of what is my problem and solution? Thanks!
I have a Craftsman YT3000, model no. 917.271635, 2014 model, engine B & S, 33187,type no. 2371-G!, 21 HP single cylinder. I bought it last year at end of the season & used it 1 1/2 hrs. and then stored it. Upon starting it backup this year,
the engine is surging at idle, bad. Under a load or when engaging the blades it does much better & runs pretty good but still surges lightly. I have taken the carb. apart cleaned it, new kit, new fuel filter,new spark plug, fresh fuel, adjusted the idle screw which nothing seems to help. It looks like the governor arm is moving the throttle back and forth-without a load on the engine. A retired mechanic told me that the values may have seated in after running a while and no value clearance. I told him I might need to adjust the value clearance. He said you cannot, that type engine has no adjustment on them. I do seem to smell a rich exhaust mixture when it running & in idle. I don't think it is carburetor related, as
everything I have done to it, does not seem to help. It now has 3 hours on it and still surges, bad, at idle. I am thinking it might be the governor? It is still in warranty but I must haul it some 75 miles to a Sears repair facility and my last experience, I never got my mower back, after several months and got a refund. I do like the mower and would like to keep it, if I can fix this problem. I last week looked at the new mowers this model & they used a different engine than mine.
I have heard of a 2013 same model & engine with very same problem. Any ideas of what is my problem and solution? Thanks!
Ferris IS3100Z
I have been having problems with my Ferris IS3100Z mower with a 37 HP Kawasaki engine ,first off this spring I had to replace the starter before I could even use it ,then battery wouldn't hold a charge ,so replaced the battery and the new battery didn't charge ,so replaced the voltage regulator (after talking to Ferris dealer in my area) . Battery still wouldn't charge when using mower and sometimes when mowing ,it would act like it was bogging down and shut down ,like the seat switch or brake or something was killing it. Thought it might be the time delay relay or one of the 5021766 relays ,so I replaced them . Now it won't do anything ,only thing I hear is the gas solenoid clicking ,won't try to start or even turn over. Now I started checking wiring and everything else ,have both neutral switches remain open ,so they're evidently bad ,also the brake switch , NO side stays open all the time , so it's bad , looking at both magneto's ,unplugged spade terminals on both of the ,tried reading resistance from ground to terminals ,one reads resistance and the other one doesn't , I'm not sure what they should read . I don't know if something has shorted out causing everything to go bad or what , key switch checks fine ,I replaced the PTO switch when it started bogging down and then wouldn't start again .
Any ideas would be welcome ,about ready to pull my hair out .
Thanks, G Hughes
Any ideas would be welcome ,about ready to pull my hair out .
Thanks, G Hughes
Unknow Year of Cub Cadet
Engine is a Briggs & Stratton Model 407.777 Type 0128 E1 Code 001 023YG. Any one know what year this engine is from? I am looking to replace the starter on it. After my Dodge Cummins wouldn't boost it I think the starter is screwed. I replaced the starter solenoid two weeks ago. But my 4 month old battery will not hold a charge for the past 2 weeks I have been using my booster pack. But it died today after a couple of jump starts to the tractor. Finally nothing was able to boost it. Just a little smoke when I used the truck.
Kohler wiring problems
Its me again. I think every one who has answered my post knows what a wiring idiot I am. I pulled all the safety switch wires off of the mower, they were all burnt and fused together. As I said I don't use the mower to cut grass, only to pull a small trailer around the property to do odd jobs. The ignition switch now cranks the engine and the solenoid on the carb. works. I have no spark to spark plugs. I under stand I may have touched a hot wire to the ignition modules and ruined them. If I did it looks like another 200+ dollars or time to get the backhoe out and dig the hole and have a mower funeral. The engine never failed to have fire in over 8 yrs that I have had this thing. I have manuals, wiring diagrams, schematics and a Kohler SV735 PDF bookmarked on my computer. I was looking at the service manual for a Kohler courage SV 710-740. This is the engine I am trying to wire. On page 63 section 7, Electrical systems & components. Fig. 7-6 shows the DSAI diagram. I am pretty sure by now that the DSAI is what I have, but i don't see a regulator rectifier. It shows two white wires coming off of the flywheel stator assembly with one going to the regulator rectifier and it doesn't show where the other one goes. The engine was charging the battery before all the wires burnt. Its not a big deal to get it charging again. I have a shop battery charger and when the battery is down I recharge it. I also have a small slow charger I think is used mostly for motor bikes. I hook that up sometimes and let it charge all night. So I don't need the charger on the engine if any of these wires are for charging. I have learned a lot about wiring since I started to try to rewire this mower, but only by getting help from the people on this forum. I don't have the right kind of tester to test the modules. I was hoping someone could tell me why I am not getting spark. I just hope I didn't fry the modules. Also there is a red and a white wire coming off the modules that go to a connector. I can not figure where they go to. I thought to the ignition switch. If they do which terminal do they go to? There are a green and orange wire going to the connector to. As far as I can tell the green is a ground and the orange went to the carb. soloenoid. I used the L terminal on the ignition switch to the carb. solenoid and it works ok. Someone told me to do that. I know this is long but any help would be great. Help from the great people on here. Thanks
Honda lawnmower will not start!
I have a Honda GCV160 engine on my Husqvarna 21" mower. I have had so many problems this season with fuel seeping through the air filter and nearly catching fire and it hydro locking and fuel dispensing in the oil. After several attempts to find what the heck is happening like cleaning the float and pin and carburetor and in the end replacing the carb with a new one, I managed to start it. I was elated. It ran like clockwork. The second time I came to use it not so lucky. It will not start. The choke does not appear to be deploying properly and looks as if it could do with being adjusted. It hardly moves. If I move it manually there doesn't appear to be anything impeding its movement but deploying the choke from the lever on the handle appears to be failing . I did manage to start it for 20 seconds and then it cut out. It has had a new air filter, gaskets, spark plug and carb. I am of the opinion now, that it was the choke after all sticking or certainly not deploying properly. My problem is how do you adjust the damn things. On the diagram that I have that came with the machine it looks, certainly on the Honda GCV135, that there is a spring on the choke lever but I don't appear to have a spring which is rather strange and there doesn't appear to be a place for one to go, so does a Honda GCV160e have a spring on the choke lever positioned just outside of the air filter? Mine is a manual choke and not automatic. I have tried desperately to find a diagram or at least a video to find out how to adjust the choke lever. Any help would be appreciated. Many thanks from an English lady living in France.
Fuel shut off solenoid
Curious here, I have an SV-590 on an Ariens mower. It has done well for 6 years, but the other day it started, ran for a minute, then started sputtering. I shoved the throttle up in choke, and it sputtered on, but would die when I would return it to the run position.
The thing has been 'backfiring' when you turn it off, almost every time regardless of throttle position. I am leaning towards the fuel shut off solenoid as the culprit here, and hope to get it checked out this afternoon, I've already removed the shroud.
What happens if I simply replace the solenoid with a plug in the carburetor bowl? It's not like a diesel where the shut off solenoid stops the engine, these stop by throwing ground in the magneto circuit, so what is the harm? Looking at Kohler parts, it does not appear like they list a solenoid separately.
I have some running around to do this afternoon, and hope to get back to it. BTW, it will not fire at all now.
Just curious,
George
The thing has been 'backfiring' when you turn it off, almost every time regardless of throttle position. I am leaning towards the fuel shut off solenoid as the culprit here, and hope to get it checked out this afternoon, I've already removed the shroud.
What happens if I simply replace the solenoid with a plug in the carburetor bowl? It's not like a diesel where the shut off solenoid stops the engine, these stop by throwing ground in the magneto circuit, so what is the harm? Looking at Kohler parts, it does not appear like they list a solenoid separately.
I have some running around to do this afternoon, and hope to get back to it. BTW, it will not fire at all now.
Just curious,
George
Toro Weedeater Trigger Spring
I've been wrestling with this thing for 3 or 4 days now and just can't figure it out. Does anyone know how the trigger spring is installed in a Toro weedeater Model 51970A? It popped out before I saw how it was installed.Toro 1 (1200x1200).jpgToro 2.jpgToro 3.jpg
I need help!
I don't know a lot about mowers or engines but I'm slowly teaching myself. I own a Cub Cadet LTX 1045 and I was mowing the lawn last week and realized it was much louder than normal. I looked at the exhaust and saw that the arm had completely broken off from the muffler box. I figured that the only thing this would do is make the mower louder. However, after rinsing it off, I had trouble starting it. It eventually turned over and drove fine. Then, when I tried starting it yesterday, it would initially crank but not turn over. I kept trying to start it because the last time it happened. after a handful of attempts it eventually started. However there was no luck this time. My question is, will the break in my exhaust cause this issue? If not what could it be? After trying it a few time it barely even cranks now. Any advice helps!
HR214 Smoking and losing power
I have a HR214 that is likely 30 years old. It has been a beast (I personally have used it for 15 years). This season, it began smoking quite a bit (coming from the engine, not the exhaust) after about 30 minutes of use. It also seems to be losing power. I have changed out the oil and checked the air filter. Are there any gaskets or seals that likely need to be replaced, and can these be done by a non-professional.
No power under load
Honda gxv670 on a hustler zero turn. Starts, runs fine, engage blades wants to die. I can increase throttle stays running but when under load it chugs. I've checked air filter, fuel filter, an gas flow to fuel pump, it's fine. Don't know how to check fuel pump. I believe this is a vacuum fuel pump. Can they act this way. The pump is my nxt step when parts house opens tomorrow. My reasoning on why its fuel related is the filter has barely any gas in it when engine is running. Any suggestions wd b appreciated. Matt
Buying Advice Where can you buy genuine Honda parts cheaper in the UK?
I just discovered a few bits ( needle jets etc, and gaskets ) for my carb cost $190 in the UK.
Yet I can buy the complete genuine Honda Carburettor for $67 in the USA!
Any UK folks found a reasonable genuine Honda Parts supplier in The UK or a reliable US supplier who will ship to the UK.?
Hell for $67 , its not worth my time cleaning and the risk of trying to guess which part is defective, might as well just slap on a new carb - in a heartbeat! Its a no brainer.
Yet I can buy the complete genuine Honda Carburettor for $67 in the USA!
Any UK folks found a reasonable genuine Honda Parts supplier in The UK or a reliable US supplier who will ship to the UK.?
Hell for $67 , its not worth my time cleaning and the risk of trying to guess which part is defective, might as well just slap on a new carb - in a heartbeat! Its a no brainer.
GCV 160 runnig rough
Hi !!
my brand new Honda HRG 466C PK runs rough after only one mow job.....:confused2: :thumbdown:
i can`t explain good in english so i`ve done a video.
sure got warranty and i will show it to the Honda dealer, but.......i want to know previously what maybe the problem is.
in the vid engine is warm and the bowden cable connected to the carburator moving front and back all the time.
when engine was cold i think it runs better.
http://ift.tt/1EtbK5T
my brand new Honda HRG 466C PK runs rough after only one mow job.....:confused2: :thumbdown:
i can`t explain good in english so i`ve done a video.
sure got warranty and i will show it to the Honda dealer, but.......i want to know previously what maybe the problem is.
in the vid engine is warm and the bowden cable connected to the carburator moving front and back all the time.
when engine was cold i think it runs better.
http://ift.tt/1EtbK5T
Wanting complete blown SV600 Kohler Motor
Looking to buy a complete SV series single cylinder Kohler Courage engine that has major damage.
I need a variety of parts to complete a bare SV600 short block for my dad's LT1045 riding mower.
Prefer to find something within reasonable driving distance to St. Louis MO....that is as inexpensive as possible.
Please PM what you might have available.
Thanks...
I need a variety of parts to complete a bare SV600 short block for my dad's LT1045 riding mower.
Prefer to find something within reasonable driving distance to St. Louis MO....that is as inexpensive as possible.
Please PM what you might have available.
Thanks...
samedi 29 août 2015
Honda HRR2169VYA Lawn Mower will not move forward
Am trying to troubleshoot my Honda HRR2169VYA lawn mower. It will not move forward. Is there a button I need to push (other than the Smart Control Drive) to make this lawn mower move forward? I press on the Smart Control Drive bar, but nothing happens. I literally have to manually push the mower, and although the mower itself is not that heavy, I have to force the mower...It seems stuck, but there is nothing caught in the wheels. Please provide any suggestions.
Ariens 34 Zero Turn Blade Engage / Belt issue?
Hello. I have an Ariens 34 Zero Turn mower. Recently had some work on it and one repair was replacing the PTO belt. The guy told me he used a "stock" belt and not one specific to Ariens.
It was running alright, but the issue I ran into now is when I try to engage the blade sometimes it will start but most of the time it won't do anything. If I stop the mower and start screwing around with the belt (it's not snug like the old belt) by jiggling / manually turning the spindels for a few rotations on the mower deck and then try again sometimes it works, but most of the time it doesn't.
What can I do to make a real diagnosis? I don't want to buy a new belt only to have the problem be something else. Any ideas?
It was running alright, but the issue I ran into now is when I try to engage the blade sometimes it will start but most of the time it won't do anything. If I stop the mower and start screwing around with the belt (it's not snug like the old belt) by jiggling / manually turning the spindels for a few rotations on the mower deck and then try again sometimes it works, but most of the time it doesn't.
What can I do to make a real diagnosis? I don't want to buy a new belt only to have the problem be something else. Any ideas?
8hp Kawasaki FD 250 engine
Engine starts but won't rev out of idle. Backfiring through carburetor occasionally. I have overhauled the carb and this made no difference. Engine coughs, sputs and smokes like choke is on. Valves are set OK. New Plug. Maybe ignition coil breaking down? Maybe flywheel keyway worn causing out of time situation? HELP! Any help kindly appreciated. John
Troy bilt blades disengage
I have a model 34041 Trot Bilt wide area walk-behind mower. The blade drive randomly disengages while mowing. It reengages and operates for a few minutes at a time. I had a problem with pulley alignment and had a welding shop repair that.
Engine Honda GXV 160 UH2 SFL1 R280 engine, starts easy- but runs erratically at full power.
Hi
Can anyone help please... :(
I have a 5.5 Honda GXV 160 UH2 SFL1 R280 Engine on a 2007 SARP ( Kaaz ) SARP SLM 5360 HXA - Pro Mower.
At my wits end.
Started using this engine in the summer 2008, every winter except the last two, I remembered to squirt some oil in the spark plug hole and drain the carb. But last winter I did pull it over a few times to distribute some oil.
The problem is, at full power it runs erratically, mainly smooth but with a few miss fires sounds like a slightly muffled pop type of noise now and then. It doesn't hunt or surge. It starts a dream first 7" of cord and away she goes, first time every time. At tickover its not too bad just the odd slight variation.
It has plenty of power, but the plugs look very black and sooty ( far too rich ). It had Mobil 1 0W-40 oil changed 3 to 4 times every summer, and it always looks like golden honey on changing it. So hopefully zero engine wear.
To cure the problem, I changed the spark plug, checked the valve clearance, checked the torque on the tappet lock nut, ( all smack on ) drained and changed the oil, drained and washed the gas tank, blew carb cleaner throught the fuel filter, which seemed clean. Washed the sponge on the airfilter, oiled and squeezed out.
NOTE I did not change the paper air cleaner, as it looked super clean and has never really got dirty. Even the foam surround, when washed seemed clean. Blew carb cleaner through the fuel line, and fuel stopcock.
Still the same problem. :( :(
Then I took off the carb, washed the plastic air cleaner housing, took out the main jet that was a little gummed up, and the long air jet above it ( a few holes were gummed up) . Note they both fell out easy, used a needle to clear all the holes, removed the black plastic pilot jet? The one under the slow speed adjuster black plastic screw, then blew carb cleaner through all the holes, it seemed to jet out all over the place so I assumed all the airways and or fuel ways were clean.
The carb itself and bowl were pretty clean.
Checked the choke is not being activated by the throttle etc.
Still the same problem!!!
I have not reset the governor , but its in the pulled back position, so think its OK.
Note I had not reset the pilot needle jet; as it had one of those dam caps glued on it. i.e. The carb was flushed with this pilot needle jet in situ.
Still the same problem. :( :(. So fed up , and I needed a good result for having the courage to strip a carb lol :(
Having been advised by a top Merc mechanic ( the best in the UK IMO ) that I still needed to change the paper air filtres at ï½£400 on the SL 500 at only 15,000 miles because it was 4 years old, even though service interval for those filters was 40,000 miles, (he explained they degrade, even if they look super clean)
So I decided to run the engine with the air filter off. As I took it off, with the engine running at full power, it speeded up quite a lot, and the popping noise diminuished quite a lot. lowering the filter back down slowed the engine and the popping noise restarted. Note it wasn't perfect with the airfilter off but 90 95% good.
That all seemed fairly logical to my uneducated brain, as the plug was very black and sooty, and again very sooty after only a 1 hour cut! ... I assumed it was running far too rich???
So lets suppose the air filter was contricting it, removing it should lean up the mix and hence it went faster...... But am I right??
So I thought I am on to a winner, this thing needs a new air filter!
OK I don't think the needle pilot jet should effect the engine at full power, but decided to get rid of the cap! To check it and maybe strip and clean the carb again tomorrow i.e. Clean out all the channells!
I had heard if you heat the cap with a soldering iron, and pull ... it comes off. And it did. It was set as recommended at 2 turns out.
I assume as its right near the inlet manifold its a "fuel pilot jet" not a "air pilot jet" and thus screwing it in leans the mix and screwing it out enriches it? But is this right??
I understand the process is set to 2 turns off (i.e. out) just seated, and then fiddle to see where it runs the fastest; and then reset the slow running to 1700 rpm. In doing so, I was shocked to find that the fastest engine speed was with the pilot needle turned fully in and seated!! WTF .... I assumed if it was fully seated, there would be no fuel coming through, and the engine would die! Nope thats its fastest position!! and the engine speeds up a lot! If it is seated. :-/
So I am now totally confused. Unless the seat of the needle pilot jet screw is plastic, and in heating up the cap I inadvertantly melted away the seat?? But then it was 2 turns out, when I was heating the cap - so it should not have been touching the seat. And I was fairly careful, heat, pull, heat, pull etc. until it just came off cleanly. So hopefully not too much overheating.
I then blasted the neeedle with carb cleaner and the pilot needle jet hole so it blasted back.
So I got to thinking, if this engine is running too rich it could be a restricted Airfilter, pretty sure that is the case, but the fact this pilot jet when screwed fully in results in faster rpms - it is as though the carb "as a whole" is too rich. What could cause this? Is the float or float needle faulty?? Could that be the problem ... Note when I Stripped the carb, I could see a slight colour change on the pointed end of the float needle, but it wasnt dented per se.
Looking at the parts prices I was shocked! The float is ï½£25, the float needle is ï½£19, the mainjet is ï½£9 and the long jet is ï½£19 and the pilot needle jet is ï½£14 , the plastic pilot jet is ï½£19 and the gaskets are ï½£19. ...... Strewth you find the jets and gaskets are the same price as a whole new carb!
Hence regarding this fact, that the engine runs fastest With the pilot needle fully in - has anyone any ideas what is faulty? To try and save me buying outrageously expensive parts unecessarily.
Is it the float? or float needle? or both or something else?
Obviously I Will get a new air cleaner filter ( both parts ) but my concern is that might solve most of the problem, but intrinsicly the engine could be running too rich, that could lead to an early decoke job!
Any help, ideas most welcome and most appreciated. Please?
General Info:-
I run it on 99 Octane Shell V Power Nitro +, so apparently no ethonal and a great cleaning additive. ( seriously pampered mower, same treatment as my SL500. ) in the past this ran beautifully.
The first 5 years ran beautifully smoothly. Checked tappets evey year, no adjustment needed. Only does a tiny 1/4 arce lawn. Always fully warmed up before mowing.
Can anyone help please... :(
I have a 5.5 Honda GXV 160 UH2 SFL1 R280 Engine on a 2007 SARP ( Kaaz ) SARP SLM 5360 HXA - Pro Mower.
At my wits end.
Started using this engine in the summer 2008, every winter except the last two, I remembered to squirt some oil in the spark plug hole and drain the carb. But last winter I did pull it over a few times to distribute some oil.
The problem is, at full power it runs erratically, mainly smooth but with a few miss fires sounds like a slightly muffled pop type of noise now and then. It doesn't hunt or surge. It starts a dream first 7" of cord and away she goes, first time every time. At tickover its not too bad just the odd slight variation.
It has plenty of power, but the plugs look very black and sooty ( far too rich ). It had Mobil 1 0W-40 oil changed 3 to 4 times every summer, and it always looks like golden honey on changing it. So hopefully zero engine wear.
To cure the problem, I changed the spark plug, checked the valve clearance, checked the torque on the tappet lock nut, ( all smack on ) drained and changed the oil, drained and washed the gas tank, blew carb cleaner throught the fuel filter, which seemed clean. Washed the sponge on the airfilter, oiled and squeezed out.
NOTE I did not change the paper air cleaner, as it looked super clean and has never really got dirty. Even the foam surround, when washed seemed clean. Blew carb cleaner through the fuel line, and fuel stopcock.
Still the same problem. :( :(
Then I took off the carb, washed the plastic air cleaner housing, took out the main jet that was a little gummed up, and the long air jet above it ( a few holes were gummed up) . Note they both fell out easy, used a needle to clear all the holes, removed the black plastic pilot jet? The one under the slow speed adjuster black plastic screw, then blew carb cleaner through all the holes, it seemed to jet out all over the place so I assumed all the airways and or fuel ways were clean.
The carb itself and bowl were pretty clean.
Checked the choke is not being activated by the throttle etc.
Still the same problem!!!
I have not reset the governor , but its in the pulled back position, so think its OK.
Note I had not reset the pilot needle jet; as it had one of those dam caps glued on it. i.e. The carb was flushed with this pilot needle jet in situ.
Still the same problem. :( :(. So fed up , and I needed a good result for having the courage to strip a carb lol :(
Having been advised by a top Merc mechanic ( the best in the UK IMO ) that I still needed to change the paper air filtres at ï½£400 on the SL 500 at only 15,000 miles because it was 4 years old, even though service interval for those filters was 40,000 miles, (he explained they degrade, even if they look super clean)
So I decided to run the engine with the air filter off. As I took it off, with the engine running at full power, it speeded up quite a lot, and the popping noise diminuished quite a lot. lowering the filter back down slowed the engine and the popping noise restarted. Note it wasn't perfect with the airfilter off but 90 95% good.
That all seemed fairly logical to my uneducated brain, as the plug was very black and sooty, and again very sooty after only a 1 hour cut! ... I assumed it was running far too rich???
So lets suppose the air filter was contricting it, removing it should lean up the mix and hence it went faster...... But am I right??
So I thought I am on to a winner, this thing needs a new air filter!
OK I don't think the needle pilot jet should effect the engine at full power, but decided to get rid of the cap! To check it and maybe strip and clean the carb again tomorrow i.e. Clean out all the channells!
I had heard if you heat the cap with a soldering iron, and pull ... it comes off. And it did. It was set as recommended at 2 turns out.
I assume as its right near the inlet manifold its a "fuel pilot jet" not a "air pilot jet" and thus screwing it in leans the mix and screwing it out enriches it? But is this right??
I understand the process is set to 2 turns off (i.e. out) just seated, and then fiddle to see where it runs the fastest; and then reset the slow running to 1700 rpm. In doing so, I was shocked to find that the fastest engine speed was with the pilot needle turned fully in and seated!! WTF .... I assumed if it was fully seated, there would be no fuel coming through, and the engine would die! Nope thats its fastest position!! and the engine speeds up a lot! If it is seated. :-/
So I am now totally confused. Unless the seat of the needle pilot jet screw is plastic, and in heating up the cap I inadvertantly melted away the seat?? But then it was 2 turns out, when I was heating the cap - so it should not have been touching the seat. And I was fairly careful, heat, pull, heat, pull etc. until it just came off cleanly. So hopefully not too much overheating.
I then blasted the neeedle with carb cleaner and the pilot needle jet hole so it blasted back.
So I got to thinking, if this engine is running too rich it could be a restricted Airfilter, pretty sure that is the case, but the fact this pilot jet when screwed fully in results in faster rpms - it is as though the carb "as a whole" is too rich. What could cause this? Is the float or float needle faulty?? Could that be the problem ... Note when I Stripped the carb, I could see a slight colour change on the pointed end of the float needle, but it wasnt dented per se.
Looking at the parts prices I was shocked! The float is ï½£25, the float needle is ï½£19, the mainjet is ï½£9 and the long jet is ï½£19 and the pilot needle jet is ï½£14 , the plastic pilot jet is ï½£19 and the gaskets are ï½£19. ...... Strewth you find the jets and gaskets are the same price as a whole new carb!
Hence regarding this fact, that the engine runs fastest With the pilot needle fully in - has anyone any ideas what is faulty? To try and save me buying outrageously expensive parts unecessarily.
Is it the float? or float needle? or both or something else?
Obviously I Will get a new air cleaner filter ( both parts ) but my concern is that might solve most of the problem, but intrinsicly the engine could be running too rich, that could lead to an early decoke job!
Any help, ideas most welcome and most appreciated. Please?
General Info:-
I run it on 99 Octane Shell V Power Nitro +, so apparently no ethonal and a great cleaning additive. ( seriously pampered mower, same treatment as my SL500. ) in the past this ran beautifully.
The first 5 years ran beautifully smoothly. Checked tappets evey year, no adjustment needed. Only does a tiny 1/4 arce lawn. Always fully warmed up before mowing.
B&S 17.5 HP
The tractor would not start, so I checked the fuel line. It was clogged but got it cleared out. The tractor started and I got 1/2 the yard done. Then it quit while in idle and when it quit blew out a bit of blue smoke. I checked the oil and although it was a little low, not out. I put a little oil in and tried to start it. The engine turned but did not turn over. Sounds like it's getting spark, has oil and gas and gas line is flowing fine. I let it set for about half hour. Now it will not turn at all but the starter is working. Once in a while it will turn a few times and then stop with a thud. I let it set a few hours. Now it's not turning at all as if the engine is 'locked up.'
gravely pro stance 36 opinions
Does any of you guys own a pro stance 36? Ive been thinking about getting one soon for backyards and small lots. They have a deal going on now for only $5800. Just wanted to hear yalls thoughts on the mower. Thanks!
Scag 48" zero turn mower
MY MOWER AFTER MOWING 15 TO 20 MIN. I DISINGAGE BLADES TO GET OFF THE MOWER FOR WHAT EVER REASON THEN GET BACK ON MOWER THE pto WILL NOT ENGAGE, I CAN WAIT UNTIL IT COOLS OF AND TRY AGAIN IT WILL ENGAGE BUT ONLY OPERATE FOR A SHORT TIME. iT WILL DISINGAGE AND BURN A FUSE.
Gravely tire chain question
Have a Gravely ZT60HD. Bought a set of chains so that we could mow a steep bank. Problem is the chains will not go on because the tires sit right next to the frame and there is not enough room for chains. Gravely was of no help. Is there modifications for this.
Husqavarna Chainsaw Choke Lever Broke
I was working on a Husky 250 "something" series saw and it would start, but
then die. Wouldn't idle or rev up, just die. I was going to remove the carburetor
to clean it, spray it out and all. As I was taking the rubber guide off for the
adjuusting screws, I slipped and hit the plastic choke lever and snapped it off!
I was going to pick up one at several shops only to be told.."We don't keep it in
stock...we'll have to order it, 3 or 4 days PLU$ $HIPPING!" I asked how much
the shipping was only to be told $15 no matter whether I ordered 1 or 10. I
needed to get it fast-fixed for a customer so decided to improvise. I took the flat
pull out part and measured from the choke plate back and marked it, then drilled it
with a small drill bit but still had to find a metal link. I rummaged around and
found an old gallon paint can and cut the metal handle off and used it. I used the
curved end going into the side of the bucket for the choke plate and measured,
cut and bent the other end to fit the drilled plastic choke lever. Worked great and
looked as if it truly belonged on there. Measure twice, cut once! Besides you'd
never know it unless you took the top cover off. Brought to you by:
"Another Great Moment In The History of Hillbilly Engineering" :laughing: :thumbsup:
then die. Wouldn't idle or rev up, just die. I was going to remove the carburetor
to clean it, spray it out and all. As I was taking the rubber guide off for the
adjuusting screws, I slipped and hit the plastic choke lever and snapped it off!
I was going to pick up one at several shops only to be told.."We don't keep it in
stock...we'll have to order it, 3 or 4 days PLU$ $HIPPING!" I asked how much
the shipping was only to be told $15 no matter whether I ordered 1 or 10. I
needed to get it fast-fixed for a customer so decided to improvise. I took the flat
pull out part and measured from the choke plate back and marked it, then drilled it
with a small drill bit but still had to find a metal link. I rummaged around and
found an old gallon paint can and cut the metal handle off and used it. I used the
curved end going into the side of the bucket for the choke plate and measured,
cut and bent the other end to fit the drilled plastic choke lever. Worked great and
looked as if it truly belonged on there. Measure twice, cut once! Besides you'd
never know it unless you took the top cover off. Brought to you by:
"Another Great Moment In The History of Hillbilly Engineering" :laughing: :thumbsup:
HRX217HYA4 Recoil Starter
Ok so I went to replace the recoil starter on my HRX217HYA and 2 of the nuts just spin and spin. I'm guessing they are stuck/frozen to the studs, any ideas on how to get them off? Will the studs eventually screw themselves out and it will come free? Never ran across this on a Honda engine before.
Thanks
Thanks
Feedback from Older Mower, new member thread.
Just mowed my lawn. I put in a new spark plug and changed the mix from 16:1 to 25:1 and the mower ran great, hardly smoked at all. Good feeling! Thanks again all.
hyd. lift for older cadet
I have a hyd.unit I would like to put on an old 102 cadet that I am restoring. does anyone have some info as to where I would drill holes in the frame to mount the unit. it drives with a belt off the rear of the engine. the unit has three holes on the mounting plate with spacers but there are no holes in the tractor frame,and the holes would have to be drilled correct so the belt would line up correctly. also does the lift rockshaft have to be changed.
vendredi 28 août 2015
Help finding primer bulb assembly for a maruyama bl8200 backpack blower
http://ift.tt/1IrJg79
Pics here, sorry I probably should have just posted this here, but I thought I read somewhere the maruyama mowers had kawasaki engines on it? Is this true, does anyone know who makes the engines/carbs
for these?
thanks!!
Pics here, sorry I probably should have just posted this here, but I thought I read somewhere the maruyama mowers had kawasaki engines on it? Is this true, does anyone know who makes the engines/carbs
for these?
thanks!!
Help finding primer bulb assembly for a maruyama bl8200 backpack blower
Found the bulb assembly online its ridiculously priced. Looking for one that will fit, anyone know a cross reference part?
here is a pic of what I've got, unfortunately the blower fell and broke the primer assembly off and I cant find it.
from the edge of the bulb it appears to be 24 mm from edge to edge.
here is a pic of what I've got, unfortunately the blower fell and broke the primer assembly off and I cant find it.
from the edge of the bulb it appears to be 24 mm from edge to edge.
Hustler won't start after pulley broke
I have a 2003 44 in fastrak sd. I was mowing and a pulley broke so my blades were not turning properly. I disengaged the blades and then shut off the mower to assess the damage. After seeing I needed to replace the pulley and belt, my mower would not start. Is there some kind of kill switch I need to toggle to get mower to start? Any help is appreciated.
stt steering problem
I have a STT 61V-27KA that has a reversing problem on the left side. Some times it is hesitant or finally engages very slowley, or not at all. It's a problem sometimes turning left. I took it apart, and the only thing I saw out of order was the bearing insert in the back of the housing, which was loose but fit back in place very easily. Going forward is strong on both sides, and reverse is strong on the right, but the left reverse puts a small load on the engine, then drops off. Seems like I may have a bypass problem or some pressure valve is giving up too soon. Thanks for any suggestions--Ray
Honda @ 25th RHS Hampton Court Palace Flower Show
Honda (U.K.) was at the 25th RHS Hampton Court Palace Flower Show...here are a few photos of neat Honda gear from across the pond:
Hampton Court Palace Flower Show
Hampton Court Palace Flower Show
Repairs RZT50 pulling problems.
have a RZT 50 cub that will go for about 10 min. then just quits pulling. could it be the pump over heating or does it need a new trans. the left side works fine and lets you keep mowing but draggs down the machine.
Craftsman 6.5HP Briggs & Stratton won't start
Hi folks...
I have a Craftsman 6.5HP Briggs & Stratton that won't start and was wondering if you guys might be able to kick me in the right direction. The mower putters but never turns over to keep running. I've changed out the oil, fuel, spark plug, and air filter. I also checked and I am getting spark at the plug. I pulled the Carburetor and it was clean, except that the gasket b/t the Carb and Air Filter was ripped, so I'll replace that. The blade is a little bent on one end, but really not very much, certainly not past the deck skirt... I haven't pulled the Flywheel to check if the key has been sheared yet; but I guess that's where I am heading next and was wondering if there was anything else I could look at before doing so. I don't have a compression tester or pulley puller, but will look at getting them.
Any other ideas?
Thanks a lot!
Paras.
I have a Craftsman 6.5HP Briggs & Stratton that won't start and was wondering if you guys might be able to kick me in the right direction. The mower putters but never turns over to keep running. I've changed out the oil, fuel, spark plug, and air filter. I also checked and I am getting spark at the plug. I pulled the Carburetor and it was clean, except that the gasket b/t the Carb and Air Filter was ripped, so I'll replace that. The blade is a little bent on one end, but really not very much, certainly not past the deck skirt... I haven't pulled the Flywheel to check if the key has been sheared yet; but I guess that's where I am heading next and was wondering if there was anything else I could look at before doing so. I don't have a compression tester or pulley puller, but will look at getting them.
Any other ideas?
Thanks a lot!
Paras.
John Deere 425 Blow By
My 1996 John Deere 425 with the 20 HP K-Series engine Model FD620D has a lot of oil blow by coming from the oil fill. It is so bad that will blow the rubber fill cap off the fill tube. There isn't any exhaust smoke so I am wondering what causing this. If I have to pull the engine and overhaul it what is the approximate cost for parts and labor. Thank you.
HF Predator Engine
Stumbled onto a home mail ad : 6.5 HP Harbor Freight Predator 4 stroke ,$99 in non CA and CA trim. About 40 reviews surprisingly good if you can believe them. Seems this is a drop in for many tiller, pump, apps. For your information.
Can lawn mowers cause cancer?
Cause I've been mowing the lawn once a week for many years with a gas-powered mower, and am wondering if I can get cancer from its emissions?
jeudi 27 août 2015
Need Help with overall process new lawn
My current lawn used to be a pasture 2 years ago. Needless to say it's bumpy. I want to use my tractor and a pto tiller then level it with drag or device. Question is after this, Do I compact it a little with a weighted roller? Also what time of year is best to do this? Ps. My yard is around 2.5 acres mostly open
Starting problems.
I have been having problems with starting.
1. Battery goes dead when using headlight's (yes the engine Is running, but light's get dim and wont restart when u shut It off, needs jump).
2. Battery goes dead If cranking more than 10 seconds.
If I take the spark plug boot off and engage the starter, It spins fast then starts to slow down and eventually stops spinning, then I need to jump It.
Yesterday I was mowing my neighbors yard front and back and got Into some deep heavy grass and stalled before I could disengage the blades. Started right back up but hesitated, while Im holding the key In start It cranks over stops then continues cranking and finally starts. So I hooked my jumpers from my Jeep to the mowers battery and cranked It up over 10 times and It started instantly each time. Also I had the battery on the charger for over 12 hours and It couldn't even crank the engine for 10 seconds, but when I hooked up the jumpers It cranked for as long as I had the key turned. So Is this just a simple battery replacement? I also took It up to AutoZone and had It tested/charged 2 times and they said It passed both times. But when I put It back on the mower It still couldn't crank It for more than 10 seconds. But again when I hooked the jumpers up It cranked as long as I held the key. It's a DEKA battery. Battery Is only 2 years old but was dead all winter and a few months before that.
1. Battery goes dead when using headlight's (yes the engine Is running, but light's get dim and wont restart when u shut It off, needs jump).
2. Battery goes dead If cranking more than 10 seconds.
If I take the spark plug boot off and engage the starter, It spins fast then starts to slow down and eventually stops spinning, then I need to jump It.
Yesterday I was mowing my neighbors yard front and back and got Into some deep heavy grass and stalled before I could disengage the blades. Started right back up but hesitated, while Im holding the key In start It cranks over stops then continues cranking and finally starts. So I hooked my jumpers from my Jeep to the mowers battery and cranked It up over 10 times and It started instantly each time. Also I had the battery on the charger for over 12 hours and It couldn't even crank the engine for 10 seconds, but when I hooked up the jumpers It cranked for as long as I had the key turned. So Is this just a simple battery replacement? I also took It up to AutoZone and had It tested/charged 2 times and they said It passed both times. But when I put It back on the mower It still couldn't crank It for more than 10 seconds. But again when I hooked the jumpers up It cranked as long as I held the key. It's a DEKA battery. Battery Is only 2 years old but was dead all winter and a few months before that.
compression
How much compression should a 5hp Honda CX 160 have. Thanks for an answer. Also what does a 8.0 : 1 compression ratio mean?
Low Compression on Briggs and Stratton Platinum
I've got a Briggs and Stratton Platinum Series engine on a Craftsman push mower. The mower is a trash pull, but it's nearly new. The compression was at 10 psi when I got the mower. The valves look okay, but I took them out and cleaned them to be sure. I didn't see oil leaking into the cylinder so I don't think it has bad rings. I have a new head gasket on order in case the old one was blown. If you have had a similar experience with one of these engines, I'd appreciate it if you could tell me what was wrong with yours.
scag tigercat won't crank
parked the mower after using it. Went out a week later to cut grass, and it wont start.Called scag tech. they said that the relay was usually the problem. Bought a relay. All switches read good, new battery, still it wont turn over. I really don't want to purchase a ignition module. Can anyone help?
Milsco V 5300 suspension seat on my Tiger Cub
Hi Troops,
After almost a year using this seat, I finally connected the operator presence switch!!!
I had forgot this seat had a switch and was looking for information about this seat and found that all of this model have an operator presence switch installed.
I disconnected the seat switch on the machine, removed it, extended the wiring and using the same connector, connected it in the seat.
I then removed the springs and pins from the seat support that are used with the original seat and seat switch.
It has only been almost a year, but I finally got it done!!!!
This seat upgrade has been helpful to my lower back, particularly the suspension and lumbar support.
While I was at it, I cleaned the deck, replaced the blades, cleaned the collection blower, and did the 200 and 500 hour lubes.
Last week I had replaced both deck belts as the drive belt had a chunk missing from it and was causing a nasty vibration.
My Tiger Cub is looking more and more like a Tiger Cat!!!!!
I can still start the engine by pushing on the spot where the switch is located without having to sit on the seat.
What got me thinking about this is the thread "New to me Tiger Cat" which prompted me to visit my local Scag dealer and check out the suspension seats on new Tiger Cats.
After almost a year using this seat, I finally connected the operator presence switch!!!
I had forgot this seat had a switch and was looking for information about this seat and found that all of this model have an operator presence switch installed.
I disconnected the seat switch on the machine, removed it, extended the wiring and using the same connector, connected it in the seat.
I then removed the springs and pins from the seat support that are used with the original seat and seat switch.
It has only been almost a year, but I finally got it done!!!!
This seat upgrade has been helpful to my lower back, particularly the suspension and lumbar support.
While I was at it, I cleaned the deck, replaced the blades, cleaned the collection blower, and did the 200 and 500 hour lubes.
Last week I had replaced both deck belts as the drive belt had a chunk missing from it and was causing a nasty vibration.
My Tiger Cub is looking more and more like a Tiger Cat!!!!!
I can still start the engine by pushing on the spot where the switch is located without having to sit on the seat.
What got me thinking about this is the thread "New to me Tiger Cat" which prompted me to visit my local Scag dealer and check out the suspension seats on new Tiger Cats.
Brand New OV195EA with 1/8in crank play? (Enduro XL 7.0hp)
Hi, I'm new to the forum and here to get help with repowering my father's Deere 57 riding mower.
Here's the problem, more background below:
The crank seems to rest with the governor drive gear directly on top of the boss around the lower crank bearing in the sump and the interference seems to be about 1/8in. If I flip the engine and push up on the flywheel side of the crank with the case bolts out then the sump pan moves up off the block about 1/8 and there are clear marks from the oil pump drive on the lower bearing boss face. So, when I tighten the bolts and turn the engine right-side-up the crank bearing boss is lifting the crank up about 1/8. This is a zero-hour engine, never run outside the factory.
But...full disclosure time. This is a brand new engine but it's been apart. I bought it last year from one of the online dealers, got started on the project and then had to put it aside. (Mowing season was over anyway.) Over the winter someone decided it would be a good idea to put the mower outside with no cover and the engine, which was partially open, ended up with water in the sump. I felt like the only thing to do was take it down and check for flash rust inside. I also removed the starter as stator at this time but those have been the only mods.
Basically I took the engine apart, went away for two weeks and then put it back together. No that it's together again I've either left something out or it's designed to be self-machining. I've looked at online parts diagrams and I don't seem to be missing anything on or around the crank but I'm scratching my head here.
Two other questions.
Do the timing marks go with the crank dot between the cam dots or one ahead? I read in one source that Tecumseh OHV engines had the crank dot ahead by one but that seems odd.
Does the oil pump go on with the bevel down, facing the one on the sump? That's what seemed right to me but I wasn't positive. And do these plastic pumps last?
Thanks for any help!
Here's the problem, more background below:
The crank seems to rest with the governor drive gear directly on top of the boss around the lower crank bearing in the sump and the interference seems to be about 1/8in. If I flip the engine and push up on the flywheel side of the crank with the case bolts out then the sump pan moves up off the block about 1/8 and there are clear marks from the oil pump drive on the lower bearing boss face. So, when I tighten the bolts and turn the engine right-side-up the crank bearing boss is lifting the crank up about 1/8. This is a zero-hour engine, never run outside the factory.
But...full disclosure time. This is a brand new engine but it's been apart. I bought it last year from one of the online dealers, got started on the project and then had to put it aside. (Mowing season was over anyway.) Over the winter someone decided it would be a good idea to put the mower outside with no cover and the engine, which was partially open, ended up with water in the sump. I felt like the only thing to do was take it down and check for flash rust inside. I also removed the starter as stator at this time but those have been the only mods.
Basically I took the engine apart, went away for two weeks and then put it back together. No that it's together again I've either left something out or it's designed to be self-machining. I've looked at online parts diagrams and I don't seem to be missing anything on or around the crank but I'm scratching my head here.
Two other questions.
Do the timing marks go with the crank dot between the cam dots or one ahead? I read in one source that Tecumseh OHV engines had the crank dot ahead by one but that seems odd.
Does the oil pump go on with the bevel down, facing the one on the sump? That's what seemed right to me but I wasn't positive. And do these plastic pumps last?
Thanks for any help!
Need Help with a New Holland LS55 with Kohler CV20S engine. No start
I've owned this machine for 3 years and never had a problem until the other day. Went to start it, turned the key and nothing. I had just cut my grass 5 days earlier and had no problem. I turn the key and nothing happens except for that I hear a "click" up in the carb area. Here is what I have learned so far in my troubleshooting efforts: Battery....measures 12.4 volts across it. Ignition....I am getting 12 volts to the ignition switch and I am getting 12 volts out of 2 of the wires when I turn the key all the way over ( I am assuming that is good). I am getting 12 volts to the solenoid from the big red cable coming from the battery. There is also a small red wire connected with the big cable. There is another smaller wire connected to the solenoid but I am not sure what that is for. QUESTION 1: Should there be a DC voltage there when I turn the key over? QUESTION 2: Would the oil sentry/ sensor switch, if bad, keep it from starting? ( oil is full )
I checked all the fuses I could see and all were good. The PTO knob is in the right position to start. Not sure where to go from here. My grass is like a jungle. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
I checked all the fuses I could see and all were good. The PTO knob is in the right position to start. Not sure where to go from here. My grass is like a jungle. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Scotts S1642 hesitates then dies when PTO engaged
I have a Scotts S1642 with Kohler Command 16 (CV16) spec 43526, with the Walbro carb. A condition started 2 months ago that I'm not sure how to diagnose or repair. The mower would start fine, but when I engaged the PTO at full throttle, the engine would hesitate. I could lower the throttle, and the engine would resume, and then I could slowly go back to full throttle and cut the grass. This progressed into when I used the lawn mower after about 30 minutes, the engine would hesitate then die. I have to repeat the whole process again, and finish the lawn. I rebuilt the carb, which didn't seem to help. I took the carb off again to make sure I didn't miss anything, re-cleaned, and reinstalled. Right now, the mower starts fine, runs strong, and will go thru full throttle range as expected, but when I engage the PTO, the only way I can keep the engine running is at lowest throttle setting. If I throttle up any, the engine hesitate and dies, and if I disengage the PTO, the engine goes back to running perfect.
I went from having to engage the PTO at half-throttle, to engine cut-off after 30 minutes of use, to now engine will only stay running with PTO engaged at lowest throttle setting. Anything higher throttle and engine shuts off. Disengage PTO, engine runs fine.
What could cause this condition?
I went from having to engage the PTO at half-throttle, to engine cut-off after 30 minutes of use, to now engine will only stay running with PTO engaged at lowest throttle setting. Anything higher throttle and engine shuts off. Disengage PTO, engine runs fine.
What could cause this condition?
Anyone identify or have info about Pro System 30 rider?
Does anyone have any info about this mower?
From the picture, all I can see is PRO SYSTEM 30
It also has a 10HP Briggs & Stratton
Is it some form of murray? I can't find anything about it on the web.
mower-pro-system-30.jpg
thanks.
From the picture, all I can see is PRO SYSTEM 30
It also has a 10HP Briggs & Stratton
Is it some form of murray? I can't find anything about it on the web.
mower-pro-system-30.jpg
thanks.
Paying cash for used equipment
Looking for solid machines that have some issues. Blown motor, hydro problems etc if the price is right we are interested. Send message for more details.
interested specifically in
Grasshoppers
Simplicitys
Toro
John Deere
ExMark
not really interested in AYP
interested specifically in
Grasshoppers
Simplicitys
Toro
John Deere
ExMark
not really interested in AYP
mercredi 26 août 2015
Comfort vs duh
Cub Cadet 1517 vs Snapper Pro walk behind 48 inch with a sulky chair. I mow a little over an acre of uneven terrain, but not terrible. I know the duh answer, but the CC would be much more comfortable. Can get either for $800. Both are one owner with service records. Both owners got bigger machines. Would I be an idiot for passing on the snapper?
Thoughts on Gravely Compact-Pro models?
I've been looking at the Gravely Compact-Pro 44" and looking for reviews and feedback on this mower. Anyone here own one?
I was told by the dealer that it has the deeper x-factor deck. Any feedback on how the mulch kit performs on this?
I had a hard time finding good pics of the compact-pro 44, so here ya go:
I was told by the dealer that it has the deeper x-factor deck. Any feedback on how the mulch kit performs on this?
I had a hard time finding good pics of the compact-pro 44, so here ya go:
starter relay question
Looks like the relay next to the solenoid controls the safety switches ( I don't want any safety switches) so I really don't need the relay. Is this right? I wired most of the ignition switch today, all but the magneto. I had to stop to do another job. I will put magneto wire on tomorrow. If every thing works I will let the forum know. If it doesn't work I'm going to get my backhoe and did a hole and bury that sucker.
crabgrass cutting problems
Any one know how to cut tall crabgrass in one pass without leaving some of the stems still standing..I have a commercial cub cadet tank48 that mows about anything you want to really nice except this tall crabgrass with stems in this hot dry weather. I'm using a highlift blade and I keep them sharp. But I still have to recut some areas to eliminate the stems. The problem isn't quite as bad if I'm cutting really low(about 1 1/2 ") but cutting around around 2 and up gets really bad.
Look what I found today.
image-670766419.jpg
This log was not visible. Had run over it numerous times cutting grass in the yard it was in. I was riding along cutting grass when suddenly my mower stopped. I disengaged blades and restarted engine. Then backed up to see what I had hit. Mower front end started raising off the ground. This log was sticking out the front of the deck. I had to completely remove the blade to get it out.
This log was not visible. Had run over it numerous times cutting grass in the yard it was in. I was riding along cutting grass when suddenly my mower stopped. I disengaged blades and restarted engine. Then backed up to see what I had hit. Mower front end started raising off the ground. This log was sticking out the front of the deck. I had to completely remove the blade to get it out.
Scotts self propelled does not work
I have a Scotts self propelled mower Model 21995X8B that was given to me, and the motor runs, but the rear wheel drive does not work. Any suggestions, and where can I get a diagram showing the working parts? Thanks
Carburetor linkeage
Looking for info on carburetor linkage. I have a Craftsman riding mower with a Briggs and Stratton motor 19.5 hp. I need to know how to link the carburetor to the throttle
Troy-Bilt mower smoking
Troy-Bilt 21 inch self-propelled walk behind is smoking, sometimes like crazy, & then conks out.
What is the deal?
Thanks.
Ed White
What is the deal?
Thanks.
Ed White
little help on a briggs and stratton i think clasic 35 mower
heres a qundry for you engine that has fuel and spark but does not run
i had given to me a mountfield mower that was not running is a bit of a sorry state needing a cable for the stop bar
and in need of a good clean carb and tank as it was i think hanging around for a while
its got spark as i got a inline spark tester and its got fuel as it smells and is wet when i take out the plug
any ideas on what wrong
i had given to me a mountfield mower that was not running is a bit of a sorry state needing a cable for the stop bar
and in need of a good clean carb and tank as it was i think hanging around for a while
its got spark as i got a inline spark tester and its got fuel as it smells and is wet when i take out the plug
any ideas on what wrong
mardi 25 août 2015
Value of "Mulch Kit" for 2009 Toro 52" Z Master ?
For 2009 Toro Z-Master 52" deck.
Curious if anyone would know what it may worth, or if anyone is looking for this kit ? complete with bolts & hardware. Only used once.
Thanks in Advance.
Curious if anyone would know what it may worth, or if anyone is looking for this kit ? complete with bolts & hardware. Only used once.
Thanks in Advance.
Engine Toro Suzuki knock
I've got a 1984 Toro 21" push mower which has the 2-cycle Suzuki engine.
Lots of people have reported a knocking noise with this engine and mine is no exception. No one seems to know what what causes it or how to fix it. Some people report that their engines have been knocking for years.
I haven't been using mine for a few years and decided to get it running again. While I had the engine cover off, I worked the engine brake and noticed what seemed to me to be a LOT of crankshaft endplay. Does anyone know the max/min for crankshaft endplay?
I submitted the question to Toro but got nothing from them except "contact you local dealer."
Thanks.
Lots of people have reported a knocking noise with this engine and mine is no exception. No one seems to know what what causes it or how to fix it. Some people report that their engines have been knocking for years.
I haven't been using mine for a few years and decided to get it running again. While I had the engine cover off, I worked the engine brake and noticed what seemed to me to be a LOT of crankshaft endplay. Does anyone know the max/min for crankshaft endplay?
I submitted the question to Toro but got nothing from them except "contact you local dealer."
Thanks.
Weedeater trimmer fl26 no start
Say fellas, I have a Weed Eater featherlite fl26 that won't start. I can prime and pull all day and not a pop or sputter at all from it. I have good fresh gas in the tank. A new plug that gives me a good, fat, blue spark. There is compression. Enough to blow my thumb off the plug hole. I tried starting fluid but nothing. What I'm wondering is.....could there be a timing problem like with lawn mowers where the flywheel key gets sheared off throwing it out of time. I've replaced many keys where the mower won't fire at all. Replacing the sheared key makes it start immediately. I've never had any experience with trimmers so I thought I would ask before tearing it apart. Gas is getting to the cylinder as the plug gets wet. Trying to start according to the directions on the engine does no good. Gas is moving through the hoses when I prime. It used to start OK until last week. I used it, shut if off and a week later no start. The three basics.... compression, spark and gas but no start. Any thoughts on this problem?. Thank you.
crabgrass cutting problems
Any one know how to cut tall crabgrass in one pass without leaving some of the stems still standing..I have a commercial cub cadet tank48 that mows about anything you want to really nice except this tall crabgrass with stems in this hot dry weather. I'm using a highlift blade and I keep them sharp. But I still have to recut some areas to eliminate the stems. The problem isn't quite as bad if I'm cutting really low(about 1 1/2 ") but cutting around around 2 and up gets really bad.
Need coil for 5244 Lawn-boy
Need a coil for model 5244 Lawn-boy, s/n 7607024.
Could someone provide source, or part number? Thank you for any help you can provide.
Could someone provide source, or part number? Thank you for any help you can provide.
Engine oil leak
I have a snapper pro with148 hours and it has a oil leak I cannot find. the engine sits in the rear and I cut grass sat for about 2 hours when I got done I saw oil on the deck on the left side looking from the rear. when I checked the oil it was almost empty
valve adjust
I took the head off of a 5hp Honda to free up a stuck valve. Valve adjustment is .0015 to .0020. This seems pretty loose to me. Is this correct. Thanks
Honda HRR2162SDA Self Propelled Moves Slow
HRR2162SDA
MZCG-6943463
This has a one-speed transmission. When I engage the clutch cable, the wheels turn but the mower moves very slow. It will go up a hill, but, again, slowly.
I've worked on this model before and the problem was the clutch cable had "stretched". Replacing the cable fixed the problem.
However, I recently spent hours working on an HRR216K5VKA with a similar problem. I replaced the clutch cable and repaired the Smart Drive only to find out that the problem was the control arm on the transmission was hitting the transmission case because the transmission was worn out. The only solution was to replace the transmission. Here's the thread HRR216K5VKA
Are there any adjustments to the clutch cable on this model? I have not seen any. That is an adjustment nut on the back of the mower under the Discharge Guard. I turned this clockwise numerous turns, but it had no effect.
I checked the control arm on the transmission that is attached to the clutch cable. The control arm is not hitting any part of the transmission. With a screwdriver, I could push the control arm towards the transmission about 1". So it would appear that a new clutch cable would engage the control arm more. But there may be other problems I am missing
Questions:
1. Is there a way to adjust the clutch cable?
2. What are the troubleshooting steps to determine why the mower moves slowly when the clutch is engaged?
3. What does tightening the nut under the Discharge Guard (which is attached to a spring near the pulley) supposed to do?
Thanks.
MZCG-6943463
This has a one-speed transmission. When I engage the clutch cable, the wheels turn but the mower moves very slow. It will go up a hill, but, again, slowly.
I've worked on this model before and the problem was the clutch cable had "stretched". Replacing the cable fixed the problem.
However, I recently spent hours working on an HRR216K5VKA with a similar problem. I replaced the clutch cable and repaired the Smart Drive only to find out that the problem was the control arm on the transmission was hitting the transmission case because the transmission was worn out. The only solution was to replace the transmission. Here's the thread HRR216K5VKA
Are there any adjustments to the clutch cable on this model? I have not seen any. That is an adjustment nut on the back of the mower under the Discharge Guard. I turned this clockwise numerous turns, but it had no effect.
I checked the control arm on the transmission that is attached to the clutch cable. The control arm is not hitting any part of the transmission. With a screwdriver, I could push the control arm towards the transmission about 1". So it would appear that a new clutch cable would engage the control arm more. But there may be other problems I am missing
Questions:
1. Is there a way to adjust the clutch cable?
2. What are the troubleshooting steps to determine why the mower moves slowly when the clutch is engaged?
3. What does tightening the nut under the Discharge Guard (which is attached to a spring near the pulley) supposed to do?
Thanks.
picked up a harmony 2013, trans is super buzzy, only starts with a jump
I bypassed the seat switch, new battery, and it still only fires on jump from the truck.
starter is good, starter solenoid clicks, fires RIGHT up on old gas with a jump. Maybe new battery is defective, have to test it.
The trans is super buzzy/whiny, yet it shows the proper amount of fluid in the reservoir. trans buzzes when blade is engaged or not. it seems to run like a champ though, only had it running for about half an hour so far.
I am going to get to the bottom of the starting issues, countless threads on that. Just wondering more about the trans.
this is the exact same version of mine. Cant find a serial anywhere to find out.
wondering if I should just punt it and get something that runs properly though, or sort this one out? I only paid 150$ for it, and I need something that works properly, everytime. I don't have a lot of time to chase demons.
Also, if anyone could recommend a good small engine/hydro guy in Frederick MD that isn't going to bs me and tell me it needs more parts than its worth, I would appreciate it. I build motorcycles for a living, but this thing is foreign to me.
starter is good, starter solenoid clicks, fires RIGHT up on old gas with a jump. Maybe new battery is defective, have to test it.
The trans is super buzzy/whiny, yet it shows the proper amount of fluid in the reservoir. trans buzzes when blade is engaged or not. it seems to run like a champ though, only had it running for about half an hour so far.
I am going to get to the bottom of the starting issues, countless threads on that. Just wondering more about the trans.
this is the exact same version of mine. Cant find a serial anywhere to find out.
wondering if I should just punt it and get something that runs properly though, or sort this one out? I only paid 150$ for it, and I need something that works properly, everytime. I don't have a lot of time to chase demons.
Also, if anyone could recommend a good small engine/hydro guy in Frederick MD that isn't going to bs me and tell me it needs more parts than its worth, I would appreciate it. I build motorcycles for a living, but this thing is foreign to me.
fredr
the governor arm will not move unless I loosen the lock nut,there fore I have only one engine speed.
The throttle has no effect on the engine speed at all.
This occurred after I had remove and replaced the carburetor to repair a hole in the sediment bowl.
The throttle has no effect on the engine speed at all.
This occurred after I had remove and replaced the carburetor to repair a hole in the sediment bowl.
Repairs Wheel Power Problem
Model: HRB215SXA Serial:M7BA-6026197
My problem is the mower doesn't engage the wheel drive. When the engine is off and I pull the drive handle up it engages and I can't pull the mower backwards. With the engine running it either does nothing or makes a repeated clunking sound. On the occasion when it does engage it will pull the front wheels off the ground. I just replaced the belt, it was 21 years old, but that didn't seem to have any positive effect. So, my questions are; is there a clutch in the transmission, this is a two speed manual, or does the belt just slip on the pulleys when the drive isn't engaged. Finally could the drive cable be stretched? It's fully adjusted.
Thanks,
Charlie
My problem is the mower doesn't engage the wheel drive. When the engine is off and I pull the drive handle up it engages and I can't pull the mower backwards. With the engine running it either does nothing or makes a repeated clunking sound. On the occasion when it does engage it will pull the front wheels off the ground. I just replaced the belt, it was 21 years old, but that didn't seem to have any positive effect. So, my questions are; is there a clutch in the transmission, this is a two speed manual, or does the belt just slip on the pulleys when the drive isn't engaged. Finally could the drive cable be stretched? It's fully adjusted.
Thanks,
Charlie
Scag in need of new engine, advice needed.
My 24Hp Briggs "Extended Life" engine on my 2008 SCAG Freedom Z has what i believe to be a broken connecting rod at 550 hours. Engine sounds completely fine but is low on power when put under load. After some diagnosing it was determined that that one of the pistons is not moving when turning the engine over by hand. So, my question is do I go back with Brigg's "upgraded" 27Hp Professional series (relatively cheap and plug and play) or with something else?
Here's what I use the mower for: Residential use for mowing my 1-2 acres about once every 4-5 days, occasionally I'll mow another property or two if someone needs help. The SCAG itself seems to be in pretty good condition.
Thanks for any input.
Here's what I use the mower for: Residential use for mowing my 1-2 acres about once every 4-5 days, occasionally I'll mow another property or two if someone needs help. The SCAG itself seems to be in pretty good condition.
Thanks for any input.
Scotts S1642 no start, low voltage condition
I have a Scotts S1642 made by John Deere, and I have a no start condition that I'm not sure how to proceed to diagnose and fix, so I'm reaching out to the community for ideas. I've been attempting to diagnose the
problem for some weeks with no success.
The mower has been working fine, with regular maintenance done. I went to use it, and the mower did not start. I am getting the fuel solenoid click, but starter will not engage. My first thought was to check the
battery, but the battery showed good at 12.8 volts. I checked the voltage at the battery cable attached to the starter, and the starter motor was only receiving 5-7 volts. Over the next couple weeks, and what is now a
series of misdiagnosis and my own self-education on lawn mower electrical system, I am still at a no-start condition.
I did a complete deck rebuild in October of 2014, and the motor and transmission run great. I rebuilt the entire deck, replacing everything except the deck itself, and while the deck was off, went so far as to replace the
transmission drive belt, tension spring, and all the under frame idler pulleys. Rebuilt the carb when I replaced a faulty fuel solenoid. I wanted to make sure that this was the one and only time I was going to have to
perform a job this involved with this mower. When I don't run into situations like this, the mower runs great for being a 2001 model. I don't feel I'm ready to give up on this mower for what may turn out to be a simple
fix.
Before I just started replacing parts I had done the following, with no success, which lead me to start ordering what parts I thought may be faulty:
tried jumping the solenoid, no start, replaced solenoid
tried jumping the starter, no start, replaced the starter
replaced ignition coil, because I didn't know where else to check at this time and was getting frustrated, and thought that by throwing another $70 at it, it would somehow magically start right up
replaced ignition switch, thought maybe not letting complete 12 volts thru, still no start
had battery load tested, passed, still no start
thought maybe one or more safety switches not letting 12 volts thru to solenoid
checked continuity on all switches, passed
something is still not letting 12 volts pass thru something else to get where it needs to be
Battery check from post to post shows 12.8 volts.
Battery check with positive post and ground to frame shows 12.8 volts.
Battery check with positive on positive post and negative to frame, try to start, voltmeter shows drop to 5-7 volts.
All cable/wiring connections are tight and clean.
I've replaced the following with new parts:
starter mower
starter solenoid
ignition switch
positive battery cable
ignition coil
I've tested the following:
battery under load, passed
(battery is less than one year old and I top off the charge with 2amp slow frequently)
continuity checks done and passed on:
PTO switch (under deck left side)
brake safety switch (under deck right side)
seat safety switch
I've gone over the wiring harness to check for breaks or loose grounds, and found none. All wiring harness connectors have been checked and cleaned, ground points are tight.
So I've done all this, and I still have the same problem. The mower won't start, and it seems everywhere downstream of the battery where I should be getting a reading of 12v, when I try to start, I read 5 to 7 volts.
I've been trying to Google this issue for a couple weeks, and everything I seem to find seems to diagnose a problem where 12 volts that gets to a point, then no voltage after. I can't seem to find anything that references
a "not enough voltage" condition like I describe.
I need ideas on what else I can look for that is causing this condition.
problem for some weeks with no success.
The mower has been working fine, with regular maintenance done. I went to use it, and the mower did not start. I am getting the fuel solenoid click, but starter will not engage. My first thought was to check the
battery, but the battery showed good at 12.8 volts. I checked the voltage at the battery cable attached to the starter, and the starter motor was only receiving 5-7 volts. Over the next couple weeks, and what is now a
series of misdiagnosis and my own self-education on lawn mower electrical system, I am still at a no-start condition.
I did a complete deck rebuild in October of 2014, and the motor and transmission run great. I rebuilt the entire deck, replacing everything except the deck itself, and while the deck was off, went so far as to replace the
transmission drive belt, tension spring, and all the under frame idler pulleys. Rebuilt the carb when I replaced a faulty fuel solenoid. I wanted to make sure that this was the one and only time I was going to have to
perform a job this involved with this mower. When I don't run into situations like this, the mower runs great for being a 2001 model. I don't feel I'm ready to give up on this mower for what may turn out to be a simple
fix.
Before I just started replacing parts I had done the following, with no success, which lead me to start ordering what parts I thought may be faulty:
tried jumping the solenoid, no start, replaced solenoid
tried jumping the starter, no start, replaced the starter
replaced ignition coil, because I didn't know where else to check at this time and was getting frustrated, and thought that by throwing another $70 at it, it would somehow magically start right up
replaced ignition switch, thought maybe not letting complete 12 volts thru, still no start
had battery load tested, passed, still no start
thought maybe one or more safety switches not letting 12 volts thru to solenoid
checked continuity on all switches, passed
something is still not letting 12 volts pass thru something else to get where it needs to be
Battery check from post to post shows 12.8 volts.
Battery check with positive post and ground to frame shows 12.8 volts.
Battery check with positive on positive post and negative to frame, try to start, voltmeter shows drop to 5-7 volts.
All cable/wiring connections are tight and clean.
I've replaced the following with new parts:
starter mower
starter solenoid
ignition switch
positive battery cable
ignition coil
I've tested the following:
battery under load, passed
(battery is less than one year old and I top off the charge with 2amp slow frequently)
continuity checks done and passed on:
PTO switch (under deck left side)
brake safety switch (under deck right side)
seat safety switch
I've gone over the wiring harness to check for breaks or loose grounds, and found none. All wiring harness connectors have been checked and cleaned, ground points are tight.
So I've done all this, and I still have the same problem. The mower won't start, and it seems everywhere downstream of the battery where I should be getting a reading of 12v, when I try to start, I read 5 to 7 volts.
I've been trying to Google this issue for a couple weeks, and everything I seem to find seems to diagnose a problem where 12 volts that gets to a point, then no voltage after. I can't seem to find anything that references
a "not enough voltage" condition like I describe.
I need ideas on what else I can look for that is causing this condition.
Starter dragging, Rotates motor smoothly with spark plug removed
Starter dragging, rotates motor smoothly with spark plug removed
Engine 22HP B&S Intek V-Twin Loss of Power
Sears Craftsman 22HP V-Twin 48 Turn Lawn Tractor Model No. 917.20391
Briggs & Stratton Intek V-Twin Model No. 44R677-0019-G1
Purchased April 2014 just shy of 100 hours running.
Engine seems to be running at about half power after 3 weeks of sitting in garage. Will start with choke engaged, but not run up to normal speed. Turn choke off and leave throttle at high, engine will eventually fade down to nothing and turn off (push to choke, it catches back on, choke off, low power and sometimes cuts out). If I engage the blades it almost dies and has a really hard time getting back to about (1/2) rpm. Have tried:
1) Replaced both spark plugs.
2) Started engine with one plug in, one plug out then switched. Both will start engine -- no difference in power.
3) Pulled hose off fuel filter (closest to fuel pump) with engine off gas free flows out of fuel filter just with gravity feed from tank. Pulled and reconnected vacuum hose (no cracks).
4) Cleaned air filter. Also ran engine with air filter removed same low power.
5) Pulled valve covers all spacings seem equal at full stroke and tappets only slightly loose to same degree when not engaged (no feeler gauge to check). All tappets are tight when engaged. Looks like good oil coverage.
6) Just added about 4 gallons of new gas to the gas tank. Not sputtering or backfiring.
7) Check muffler for blockage, looks fine.
Planning to change oil and filter, but oil level is good and it looks pretty clean. Will probably also replace fuel filter but it looks like good flow.
Briggs & Stratton Intek V-Twin Model No. 44R677-0019-G1
Purchased April 2014 just shy of 100 hours running.
Engine seems to be running at about half power after 3 weeks of sitting in garage. Will start with choke engaged, but not run up to normal speed. Turn choke off and leave throttle at high, engine will eventually fade down to nothing and turn off (push to choke, it catches back on, choke off, low power and sometimes cuts out). If I engage the blades it almost dies and has a really hard time getting back to about (1/2) rpm. Have tried:
1) Replaced both spark plugs.
2) Started engine with one plug in, one plug out then switched. Both will start engine -- no difference in power.
3) Pulled hose off fuel filter (closest to fuel pump) with engine off gas free flows out of fuel filter just with gravity feed from tank. Pulled and reconnected vacuum hose (no cracks).
4) Cleaned air filter. Also ran engine with air filter removed same low power.
5) Pulled valve covers all spacings seem equal at full stroke and tappets only slightly loose to same degree when not engaged (no feeler gauge to check). All tappets are tight when engaged. Looks like good oil coverage.
6) Just added about 4 gallons of new gas to the gas tank. Not sputtering or backfiring.
7) Check muffler for blockage, looks fine.
Planning to change oil and filter, but oil level is good and it looks pretty clean. Will probably also replace fuel filter but it looks like good flow.
lundi 24 août 2015
Lawnboy Duraforce model 10323
Hello,
I'm new to the forum and would like to ask for some help with my self propelled Lawnboy silver series mower.
I recently replaced the gears in the transmission and when I re-assembled everything the transmission and axel spin as they should when I engage the belt but the wheels are free wheeling and won't engage. I took the wheel and axel assembly apart several times to be sure I had it assembled properly and it appears to be exactly as the factory parts diagram shows but no engagement of the self propelled mechanism.
Could the friction washers be worn out and not engaging? I'm sure I have the key way's correct and when I hand turn the belt the wheels seem to engage but not at the belt speed.
I wanted to ask for help/suggestions before I started to order more parts, although they aren't that expensiveI really wanted to know what the problem most likely is.
Thank you in advance!
Teleman
I'm new to the forum and would like to ask for some help with my self propelled Lawnboy silver series mower.
I recently replaced the gears in the transmission and when I re-assembled everything the transmission and axel spin as they should when I engage the belt but the wheels are free wheeling and won't engage. I took the wheel and axel assembly apart several times to be sure I had it assembled properly and it appears to be exactly as the factory parts diagram shows but no engagement of the self propelled mechanism.
Could the friction washers be worn out and not engaging? I'm sure I have the key way's correct and when I hand turn the belt the wheels seem to engage but not at the belt speed.
I wanted to ask for help/suggestions before I started to order more parts, although they aren't that expensiveI really wanted to know what the problem most likely is.
Thank you in advance!
Teleman
FH72IV 25 hp Kawi valve adj.
After allot of reading, I still don't see the difference between adj the valves @tdc on compression stroke or some saying let piston go about 1/4 past tdc. Which of the valves is on top? Intake or exhaust? My engine which has almost 500 hrs has been getting a little hard to turn and a lot of people say its valve clearance. Before I do anything they check around 10/13 thou each. Would this much clearance cause hard turning. Thanks for looking and helping an old guy just trying to do a little maint on his JD445 that he loves so much.
From 42" to 30"
I have this one client that owns a few tractors and let's me use them since his ward is a little big. Well, this week both were down so I decided to use the 30". I had a feeling I could be done in about the same time. In fact, I finished a bit sooner even tho I mowed an extra spot and the fact that it had just rained (deck needed a cleaning after a while and entrance was all wet). So, for you guys tinking about getting a rider that is about 40", I would recommend getting a 30" mower. Smaller, smaller footprint, less maintenance, less overhead, more room on the trailer.
Of course the rider will wear you down less, but I just thought I would talk about this.
Of course the rider will wear you down less, but I just thought I would talk about this.
Engine Cub Cadet 1515 turns over but doesn't fire up
I have a Cub Cadet 1515 lawn tractor with a 15hp Kohler OHV engine purchased in 2002 that won't fire up. It has spark however I suspect that it is not getting fuel because the spark plug looks dry. I disconnected the fuel line from the carb and practically nothing came out. I lowered the gas line below the position of the gas tank and gas comes out. Since the gas line has a uphill travel to get to the carb, it there a vacuum that should occur that draws the gas to the carb ? Does anyone have any troubleshooting steps I could follow to isolate this problem ? Thanks
Briggs 8.0 Genpower (Generac) smokes when hot
We lose power occasionally. Sometimes twice a year, sometimes not at all. Usually power is restored in minutes. Sometimes hours. During major ice storms or similar disasters, we have gone days without power.
I have a portable generator powered by a B&S 8.0 gas engine that I have used on a handful of occasions since buying used 10 years ago. I fire it up 2 or 3x per year if I need to or not. I pulled her out yesterday and she started up fine. After the engine warmed to operating temp, a flap (protective cover?) next to the muffler began smoking. I immediately shut the unit off and watched it continue to smoke until it cooled. I waited a while before restarting, thinking maybe I was mistaken and the smoke (blueish) was coming from the muffler and not the flap. Sure enough when I restarted and she got hot, it was clear that the smoke was coming from the carburetor side of the flap (see photo).
Today I took her outside and started her up and looked closely at the carb side of the flap as the engine was running. After running for about a minute, a fluid that looked like oil began to accumulate on the flap (carb side). It appeared as if it were being "sprayed" or "spit" on. Then when the muffler got to temperature (hot), the substance began to smoke. At that point, I feared the flap would catch fire, igniting the plastic fuel tank above, then .... KABOOM.
Any guess as to what's happening? Could it be oil? If yes, where is it coming from and what is the fix? Thanks. briggs1.JPG
I have a portable generator powered by a B&S 8.0 gas engine that I have used on a handful of occasions since buying used 10 years ago. I fire it up 2 or 3x per year if I need to or not. I pulled her out yesterday and she started up fine. After the engine warmed to operating temp, a flap (protective cover?) next to the muffler began smoking. I immediately shut the unit off and watched it continue to smoke until it cooled. I waited a while before restarting, thinking maybe I was mistaken and the smoke (blueish) was coming from the muffler and not the flap. Sure enough when I restarted and she got hot, it was clear that the smoke was coming from the carburetor side of the flap (see photo).
Today I took her outside and started her up and looked closely at the carb side of the flap as the engine was running. After running for about a minute, a fluid that looked like oil began to accumulate on the flap (carb side). It appeared as if it were being "sprayed" or "spit" on. Then when the muffler got to temperature (hot), the substance began to smoke. At that point, I feared the flap would catch fire, igniting the plastic fuel tank above, then .... KABOOM.
Any guess as to what's happening? Could it be oil? If yes, where is it coming from and what is the fix? Thanks. briggs1.JPG
Kubota B7300
Does anyone on here know where I could find the mid pto complete housing that has the mid pto, front driveshaft for the front axle and the rear pinion? Preferably a used assembly.
Need illustrated picture of where all the parts go on WeedEater One Riding mower WE1
:confused:
Help took the weedeater one apart now I cant figure how and where most of the parts go
have figured out how to modify the friction disk inexpensively
If someone can clue me how to put the thing back together ....
I'll share my idea .
I also have the thought on how to make a different way of steering and also the
limit on how small a radius .....Which I believe is the main cause of early failure of
the transmission !
Your help will be to our mutual benefit!
Thanking anyone in advance !
NormF
Help took the weedeater one apart now I cant figure how and where most of the parts go
have figured out how to modify the friction disk inexpensively
If someone can clue me how to put the thing back together ....
I'll share my idea .
I also have the thought on how to make a different way of steering and also the
limit on how small a radius .....Which I believe is the main cause of early failure of
the transmission !
Your help will be to our mutual benefit!
Thanking anyone in advance !
NormF
Kohler ignition
Still trying to rewire ignition switch on Craftsman ZTS Kohler 26hp twin. The S terminal on the ignition switch goes where on the solenoid? +terminal on battery goes to one side of solenoid with a wire from it going to top terminal of the relay. Other side of solenoid goes to starter, these are the two large terminals on the solenoid. There are two small connections on the bottom of the solenoid that I am not sure where they go. The connection on the bottom of the relay I'm not sure where it goes. I can read a schematic a little but the one I have is in black and white. I think it would help if wires were in color. My harness burnt and fused all the wires together. The schematic shows all the wires going into a bundle that's wrapped up and when they come out the other end I lose them, that's why I say color would help me. Thanks to everyone for the help so far. As you can tell wiring is not something I easily understand. I love to fix things. I always want to learn new things to. Thanks for any help.
2015 Exmark / Kohler Question
I've been in the lawn care business for about 10 years now mowing about 20-25 acres a week. Mostly large residential jobs that get cut alot. I've always had Dixie Chopper 60" zero turns and was ready for a change so I bought a brand new Exmark Lazer S 72" with a Kohler Command Pro EFI 26.5 hp this spring (mid April I believe). I was told by many people to give Exmark a try so I went for it. Fast forward 2-1/2 months and 91 mowing hours later I mowed about 6-8 hours Sunday and had everything cut except a 5 minute apartment job so I stopped Monday after work to get it finished. Well I tried to mow it but my engine started knocking and lost all it's power when the deck was engaged. I dropped it off to the dealer Tuesday at 8am. They said they would know something in a few days and if it was going to take awhile I can pick up a loaner later in the week. Well Friday came and they didnt have much new information so they said I can pick up the loaner mower. So I took the 40 minute one way trip and picked it up. They called me the first of the week and said it needed major engine repair. They deemed the engine was blown due to low oil. Now I will admit I did check the oil Sunday but did not look at it Monday afternoon when I mowed the apartment. It sat in their shop for a month before Kohler made any attempt to look at it. The dealer claimed their hands were tied and it was all on Kohler before they can do any warranty work. Finally after a month of it sitting there Kohler says they will provide a short block for it but thats it. I'm responsible for the labor to put it in. Kohler told the dealer during an engine break in process it can burn 1/2 qt per hour and I should check my oil at least every 2 hours. I'm not really sure how long this engine break in process is but it must be over 91 hours Somehow that information failed to get passed onto me and I was just supposed to know it. At this point I just wanted my mower back so I said please just get it done. It ended up costing me $450. I started thinking about it and was really irritated about it so I called Exmark to see if they would stand behind there name and product and pick up the labor cost or talk to Kohler again but that was a waste of 3 phone calls and 20 minutes of my life. They are worse than politicians dodging questions and talking as if they wish they could help me as they count my 11k+ dollars in the background. It ended up being down 5-1/2 weeks before I got it back. What a poor experience I've had with this whole ordeal. I ask both the dealer and Exmark for Kohlers phone number and no one seems to have any contact info for them. The dealer and Exmark both say the warranty info is through Kohler yet there is no way to contact them. The 800 phone number takes you to some other master parts distributor. Long story short the 3 year warranty is about as good as the first engine on my Exmark, crap. The customer service at Exmark is even worse. The mower cuts better than anything I've ever used before though so I guess time will heal my wounds when I forget about it. It's not like I cant afford to eat now because of the cost, but its the principle that has my so irritated. Has anyone else experienced anything like this? Does anyone have any suggestions to recoup my money?
Repairs Honda 20hp MOD: GXV620K1, ENGINE: QYF
I have a client with a Honda 20hp MOD: GXV620K1, ENGINE: QYF. It has an intermittent starting issue. When the ignition key is switched on, sometimes it will fire right up. Other times it clicks in the starter. The clicking is caused by the starter gear plunging up against the flywheel but not rotating. I started by testing the system at the battery = good. Next I moved on to the safety interlock system of the mower (Hustler Fastrak) just to rule that out and that passed. Next I tested the voltage coming from the positive battery to the solenoid = 12.84v. I then tested the voltage coming thru the ignition switch to the solenoid spade = 12.84v. So I replaced the piggy-back solenoid with a new one. Same problem. So then I checked the valve lash and found that to be fine, within specs. Finally, I moved on to the starter and replaced it with a new aftermarket starter from Oregon Parts. The starter will receive electricity and plunge the gear but won't rotate. Once again I tested all voltage going to the starter, and I am getting over 12 v. Do you think the new starter is bad, or am I missing something? What is the proper way to bench test these starters? For starters, I have always just applied voltage and ground and either they plunge and spin or they don't. But I don't have much experience with this machine. What else could this issue be? Thank you to all in advance for your time and experience!
dimanche 23 août 2015
BEWARE: Scotts Turf Builder Weed & Feed Kills Centipede Grass!
:thumbdown:
For nearly 150 years, Scotts has been helping homeowners enjoy a beautiful outdoor space. We take pride in our work as leaders in the lawn and garden industry, so when we hear about even one unhappy homeowner, thatç—´ too many for us. In recent weeks, your experience with our product may have failed to meet your expectations. This year, in an effort to improve our popular Scottsï½® Turf Builderï½® Bonusï½® S Southern Weed & Feed, we changed the formulation for better weed control. Unfortunately, some homeowners, primarily those with centipede grass, have reported damage to their lawns after using this new product. We deeply apologize for the inconvenience our consumers may be experiencing.
Scotts is committed to doing what is necessary and appropriate to repair any damage to your lawn. However, given the nature of this matter, it may take several weeks or longer to address concerns associated with your lawn. We are grateful for your patience during this time. We値l need some information from you before we can address your lawn; please click here to complete a brief online form. Make sure you have your proof of purchase and at least two digital images of your lawn to upload. A member of our Consumer Service team will contact you within 5-10 business days to discuss the details provided on your completed online form.
Again, we appreciate your continued patience and cooperation as we work to resolve all consumer concerns related to our Scottsï½® Turf Builderï½® Bonusï½® S Southern Weed & Feed products.
Click Here For More Information Here about the issues
Quote:
For nearly 150 years, Scotts has been helping homeowners enjoy a beautiful outdoor space. We take pride in our work as leaders in the lawn and garden industry, so when we hear about even one unhappy homeowner, thatç—´ too many for us. In recent weeks, your experience with our product may have failed to meet your expectations. This year, in an effort to improve our popular Scottsï½® Turf Builderï½® Bonusï½® S Southern Weed & Feed, we changed the formulation for better weed control. Unfortunately, some homeowners, primarily those with centipede grass, have reported damage to their lawns after using this new product. We deeply apologize for the inconvenience our consumers may be experiencing.
Scotts is committed to doing what is necessary and appropriate to repair any damage to your lawn. However, given the nature of this matter, it may take several weeks or longer to address concerns associated with your lawn. We are grateful for your patience during this time. We値l need some information from you before we can address your lawn; please click here to complete a brief online form. Make sure you have your proof of purchase and at least two digital images of your lawn to upload. A member of our Consumer Service team will contact you within 5-10 business days to discuss the details provided on your completed online form.
Again, we appreciate your continued patience and cooperation as we work to resolve all consumer concerns related to our Scottsï½® Turf Builderï½® Bonusï½® S Southern Weed & Feed products.
Good cold start / Bad hot restart
Hi everyone,
I am having an issue with a "new-to-me" Snapper P217019BV with the Briggs 7.0 Intek OHV. The mower seems to start fine when it is cold, however when it is warmed up, it takes MANY MANY pulls to get it started again. If you need to empty the grass bag, and restart it, it may take over 10 or more pulls. It also seems to not respond very much to the throttle adjustment know. The difference between the turtle and the rabbit is almost not noticeable. Any ideas as to what may be going on?
Thanks,
Zack
I am having an issue with a "new-to-me" Snapper P217019BV with the Briggs 7.0 Intek OHV. The mower seems to start fine when it is cold, however when it is warmed up, it takes MANY MANY pulls to get it started again. If you need to empty the grass bag, and restart it, it may take over 10 or more pulls. It also seems to not respond very much to the throttle adjustment know. The difference between the turtle and the rabbit is almost not noticeable. Any ideas as to what may be going on?
Thanks,
Zack
Flex Forks Installed
I decided to get the flex forks for my Raptor Sd 60. The dealer in Fayette, Al.[Roger's Auto] had them on the shelf.
Installing was easy . Jack up the front,remove wheels, remove spindle bolt and drop out old forks. I put a light coat of grease on new spindles and on axles,mostly to hold down rust.
I had already dropped the rear tires pressure to 9 psi. So off I went to mow.
Well, the flex forks are worth it !
My property has all kinds of surfaces, from smooth to an old garden turned back into lawn.I plan to level it in the Spring.
I can now mow even faster and the ride is much smoother.
Installing was easy . Jack up the front,remove wheels, remove spindle bolt and drop out old forks. I put a light coat of grease on new spindles and on axles,mostly to hold down rust.
I had already dropped the rear tires pressure to 9 psi. So off I went to mow.
Well, the flex forks are worth it !
My property has all kinds of surfaces, from smooth to an old garden turned back into lawn.I plan to level it in the Spring.
I can now mow even faster and the ride is much smoother.
Hustler Raptor SD Puff of Smoke at Startup
16 hours on the Kaw 7.6 and I get a puff of smoke at start up. Is this normal? It sits for about a week.
Dixie Chopper Zee 2 42" vs Gravely ZT X 42"
I've been looking at these two ZT mowers and am looking for any feedback that you guys can provide.
Major highlights I can think of:
DC has a B&S Cyclonic, Gravely has a Kohler 7000.
Tire size is wider on the DC
Spindles are bigger on Gravely.
Both are priced about the same, with the DC being a few hundred more.
Thanks in advance!
Major highlights I can think of:
DC has a B&S Cyclonic, Gravely has a Kohler 7000.
Tire size is wider on the DC
Spindles are bigger on Gravely.
Both are priced about the same, with the DC being a few hundred more.
Thanks in advance!
lx 255 valves
hello everyone, my valves on my kohler engine are ticking part of the time. can you ajust them or not.
Fast Trak S/D SPUTTERS, LOSES POWER, DIES
Hi all.
My fairly new Fast Trak S/D (50 hrs), has started this habit of sputtering, losing power, dying, sometimes backfiring after about an hour of mowing.
Acts like its running out of gas(which I have done several times). I can sometimes keep it going by setting the choke. it eventually dies.
After letting it rest for a few minutes I start it up and we're good to go for about another 15 -20 min. And then let it rest and restart.
This goes on until its so frequent that its just not worth it. The next day is the same. good for an hour or so and it starts all over again.
Clues: the fuel in the filter varies from 1/4 to 3/4 full. happens on either full tank. gas is fresh.
Is it possible that there is a vapor lock? if so how do I fix that? could it be the fuel pump getting week. could it be something getting heat sensitive?
Its very irritating. I spent a lot of money on this machine with the idea that it wouldn't give me any trouble for a while.
Thanks in advance for your help and your suggestions.
My fairly new Fast Trak S/D (50 hrs), has started this habit of sputtering, losing power, dying, sometimes backfiring after about an hour of mowing.
Acts like its running out of gas(which I have done several times). I can sometimes keep it going by setting the choke. it eventually dies.
After letting it rest for a few minutes I start it up and we're good to go for about another 15 -20 min. And then let it rest and restart.
This goes on until its so frequent that its just not worth it. The next day is the same. good for an hour or so and it starts all over again.
Clues: the fuel in the filter varies from 1/4 to 3/4 full. happens on either full tank. gas is fresh.
Is it possible that there is a vapor lock? if so how do I fix that? could it be the fuel pump getting week. could it be something getting heat sensitive?
Its very irritating. I spent a lot of money on this machine with the idea that it wouldn't give me any trouble for a while.
Thanks in advance for your help and your suggestions.
New to Forum with Questions
Hi,
I am retired and own a Honda 215HXA I purchased in 1995. It has been the best mower ever. Recently I accidentally ran over a stump root while mowing. That resulted in a bent crank and possibe other damage.
I had searched for a replacement engine for it and found a suggestion of a Harbor Freight Preditor of a similar size. Does anyone know how compatible this would be for my Honda. I am on a limited budget without a lot or room for extra expense to make repairs to the mower.
Thanks for any help anyone can offer.
I am retired and own a Honda 215HXA I purchased in 1995. It has been the best mower ever. Recently I accidentally ran over a stump root while mowing. That resulted in a bent crank and possibe other damage.
I had searched for a replacement engine for it and found a suggestion of a Harbor Freight Preditor of a similar size. Does anyone know how compatible this would be for my Honda. I am on a limited budget without a lot or room for extra expense to make repairs to the mower.
Thanks for any help anyone can offer.
Need help.....carb problem on 22 hp V twin Briggs
fuel pump is pushing gas all the way to the carburetor inlet but engine will not start.....fuel pump just replaced and pumping .if I slowly pour gas slowly into carb it will start and run as long as gas is poured in it and when I stop the engine will run for a second then die......what can I do to carb to help this....come on guys need some masterminds advise....thanks
Briggs & Stratton 3.5 HP miss and rough run ?
Briggs & Stratton 3.5 HP A736008 MIN [SAE J607] Mower starts right up - runs fine for a minute then starts to miss and run rough - runs fine again for awhile just before it goes MT. Any suggestions to save me time trouble shooting appreciated.
replacing my old briggs and stratton CARBURETOR with the new one
hi i was wondering if anyone knows if the new Briggs and Stratton Carburetor 499491 is better than the old on Briggs and Stratton 499952. Because the Briggs & Stratton Engine i have now is a, it is being used as an Edger i have, but the carburetor is so old i am thinking about possibly upgrading it to the new version of it. So if anyone knows about the new Carburetor could some one please tell me. Thanks
Briggs & Stratton 3.5HP Horizontal
Model: 091202
Type: 1309 E1
Code: 000418YA
Family: YBSXS.1481HH 274459
Briggs & Stratton 3.5HP Horizontal
Model: 091202
Type: 1309 E1
Code: 000418YA
Family: YBSXS.1481HH 274459
Hi lift blade with side discharge?
Is there any downside to using the hi lift blade that came with my raptor sd catcher kit during side discharge mode? I'd like to leave it on there all the time. The manual does say to replace it with the standard blade.
Z425 engine carb problems
Getting fuel all the way up to the carb but engine won't run unless gas is gently poured into carb and when you stop pouring it goes dead....what might be the solution.....I can pull the carb off if it needs to be....is there some things I might try at home to get it going before taking it for rebuilding. Thanks
samedi 22 août 2015
Kawasaki celebrates over 7 Million Engines built
Officials at Kawasaki Motors Manufacturing Corp., U.S.A. and the Engine and Power Products Division of Kawasaki Motors Corp., U.S.A. recently joined together at the Maryville, MO, engine assembly plant to celebrate seven million engines having come off the facilityç—´ production lines. Executives recognized the accomplishmenté*chieved in less than 23 yearså‚*y pouring a bottle of champagne over an FX651V overhead valve V-twin engine.
The company built unit number five million in June 2007, and recent sales growth has seen a broad expansion of the production capabilities. The Maryville operation now employs 762 full-time staff, supplemented by almost 250 contract employees. The footprint exceeds 114 acres and facility expansion has seen the plant exceed 800,000 square feet, nearly three times its original size.
According to Steve Bratt, plant manager and vice president at KMM, å…¸he efforts of a tremendously motivated group of individuals has allowed Kawasaki to be successful here, and the largest share of the credit has to go to the Maryville-area workforce that staffs our planning offices and production lines.?/font>
The company produces more than 25 different engine models in Maryville as well as having a state-of-the-art research and development center at the facility. Engines are provided to some of the most well-known names in the lawn and garden industry, as well as to industrial and golf industry vehicle manufacturers.
The company built unit number five million in June 2007, and recent sales growth has seen a broad expansion of the production capabilities. The Maryville operation now employs 762 full-time staff, supplemented by almost 250 contract employees. The footprint exceeds 114 acres and facility expansion has seen the plant exceed 800,000 square feet, nearly three times its original size.
According to Steve Bratt, plant manager and vice president at KMM, å…¸he efforts of a tremendously motivated group of individuals has allowed Kawasaki to be successful here, and the largest share of the credit has to go to the Maryville-area workforce that staffs our planning offices and production lines.?/font>
The company produces more than 25 different engine models in Maryville as well as having a state-of-the-art research and development center at the facility. Engines are provided to some of the most well-known names in the lawn and garden industry, as well as to industrial and golf industry vehicle manufacturers.
Toro Z Master rear tires wearing out on inner tread ? Normal ?
Neighbor has Z Master with over 1,000 hours & back tires are showing the most tread wear on inner most part of tread (both rear tires), like it has Negative camber.
Is this normal ?
He doesn't do computers, so I'm inquiring for him.
Appreciate any replies.
Is this normal ?
He doesn't do computers, so I'm inquiring for him.
Appreciate any replies.
hydrostat issue? 2002 MTD Yard machine
I have a 2002 MTD Yard Machine 42" with a Briggs & Stratton 17 HP OHV engine, it is an automatic. runs great, but it doesnt stop. "break works fine if mower is not running" the brake pedal and gas pedal are both on the same side. if i let off the gas pedal while in gear, the mower keeps moving. nothing i do seems to disengage the transmission either, so i have to pull it to neutral.
MDT Yardman slamming and jerking
I have a Yardman riding mower its about 10 years old.
When I go in reverse its fine but when I go forward in any gear it jerks like it wants to go go but cant
and also makes a slamming noise. We noticed that there is oil coming out of the rear end.
Anyone have any idea of what could be going on.
Thanks
When I go in reverse its fine but when I go forward in any gear it jerks like it wants to go go but cant
and also makes a slamming noise. We noticed that there is oil coming out of the rear end.
Anyone have any idea of what could be going on.
Thanks
2011 Ariens Going Extremely Slow
Hello, I have a 2011 Ariens 42'' Hydro-tractor wit a Briggs and Straton 19.5 HP engine. For the past couple of months I felt like the mower wasn't going as fast as it should. I have a 2000 Craftsman with a 17 hp that was faster. Today the mower started right up but now will only go extremely slow and I can hear almost a dull screech or whine from the back of the mower. Any idea what this may be?
old Briggs 5HP no spark/coil upgrade?
Greetings,
I have a Briggs horizontal shaft 5HP from it looks like 1969. I picked it up for $20 attached to a tiller. Currently it has no spark and I'm looking to upgrade this unit to electronic ignition and avoid the points and condenser entirely. I'm hoping this is possible, and I have heard mixed responses.
Attached is a picture of the coil I removed, it's rusty/crusty and the laminations have started to separate.
Can someone give me an idea of a part number for the new solid state coil? Thanks for the help :)
Engine model is 100202
I have a Briggs horizontal shaft 5HP from it looks like 1969. I picked it up for $20 attached to a tiller. Currently it has no spark and I'm looking to upgrade this unit to electronic ignition and avoid the points and condenser entirely. I'm hoping this is possible, and I have heard mixed responses.
Attached is a picture of the coil I removed, it's rusty/crusty and the laminations have started to separate.
Can someone give me an idea of a part number for the new solid state coil? Thanks for the help :)
Engine model is 100202
18.5 Briggs & Strattons Won't Start
Hello I have a strange problem, Today I start my mower with no problem and cut my front yard, I cut off my mower and it WILL NOT start, in fact the motor is turning over very fast now. so this is what I have checked:
I pulled off the valve cover and check the push rods and made sure they were both adjusted fine, turn the engine by hand to see if both valves were moving, adjusted both the valves.
Turn the plug out and made sure the piston was going up and down, checked the spark on the plug and it was getting fire..???
I just don't know whatever to check?? Any suggestion on what could be wrong with this engine?
I pulled off the valve cover and check the push rods and made sure they were both adjusted fine, turn the engine by hand to see if both valves were moving, adjusted both the valves.
Turn the plug out and made sure the piston was going up and down, checked the spark on the plug and it was getting fire..???
I just don't know whatever to check?? Any suggestion on what could be wrong with this engine?
Belt problem mabee?
1st tractor is lt1000,used it for years as only transportation around property and to pull trailer with.give me ideas what to look for when i get on floor to check things out.Problem,1st i,m 83,2nd ,when i start off lil tractor jumps to get moving bout makes me swallow false teeth , and if i still had hair ,that would go too.Thing runs fine all other ways,no problems.even if i slowly let out pedel,i,ll come out just a bit and then ya better be holdin on,wife thinks im hot rodden it,scars fire outta me.I just want some ideas cause its a hour deal for me to get on floor,and lunch time before i get up.new belt mabe? I,ve never replaced in in years ive had it.other then that,dont have any complaints,cept im not 38 any more.Paul
New Toro Timecutter SS5000 Owner!
Love my new ride! The wife and I are enjoying this new baby but aren't comfortable running it past Tow Speed yet.
After 3 cuttings, she took it, against my advice, into a pasture where some Russian Olive seedlings quickly flattened all the tires. We also have a lot of Goat Heads around to menace the tires. A gallon of Monster Tire Seal later and no more flats...ever!
After 3 cuttings, she took it, against my advice, into a pasture where some Russian Olive seedlings quickly flattened all the tires. We also have a lot of Goat Heads around to menace the tires. A gallon of Monster Tire Seal later and no more flats...ever!
My New Toy
This was a1998 Murray Garden Tractor to begin with. In pretty rough shape.
Almost have it finished and it is now Garden Tractor/4Wheeler....... :smile:
Will finish up over the next day or so. Need to put back on seat cover, engine pulley, and repair hole in gas tank.
Then play time.
Almost have it finished and it is now Garden Tractor/4Wheeler....... :smile:
Will finish up over the next day or so. Need to put back on seat cover, engine pulley, and repair hole in gas tank.
Then play time.
mowing a football field
Hey guys, one of my friends coaches a youth football team at a county park. The county used to keep up with mowing the whole park including the field. But now they just mow it when it's like two feet tall and the parents are getting mad. So the President of the park is going to be in contact with me for a bid on just the football field. I was thinking $300 a month. Which is roughly $75 a cut give or take how many months are in that month? Do y'all think this is a good amount?
Deck belt spin off on Widcat 61"
Every now and then, I have to re-attach the deck belt after engaging PTO and the belt spinning off. I have got some advise on possible culprits. The pulleys seem to roll free with no sticking. I really seem to think that the belt is riding very high on tension pulleys. With the little jerking on PTO engagement, it may spin off there. My question is, has anyone heard of spacers to put under the tension pulleys to lift them up a tad? Or should I just replace them, thinking that the top edge of the pulleys may not have enough "lip" to keep belt in place. I appreciate all input!
vendredi 21 août 2015
Cut/mulching quality for dry grass cut weekly: is commercial deck better than resid.?
I understand commercial mowers/decks are designed to cut nicely, even when grass is wet or overgrown, but is there a difference for a homeowner who cuts weekly and only when the grass is dry? I typically cut 4-5" growth down to 3". I'm trying to decide between the Hustler Raptor SD 54" ($4000) and the Ferris IS600Z with the 48" iCD deck ($5500).
My property is almost an acre, and using the cool Google Earth area measurement tool at daftlogic.com, it looks like about .55 acre of it is actual grass. So I figure 25 hours a year usage max. Based on that, and my yard being flat, most of the advantages of the Ferris over the Hustler (ZT-3400 hydros vs 2800's, Kawi FS engine vs FR, 10mph vs 7.5mph, 4 year warranty vs 3 year) don't seem worth the extra money for my situation.
No real differences in the dealers, either. Both well-established businesses, nice folks, and both are 3 miles from me, practically across the street from each other.
So for me it just comes down to the quality of the cutting, mulching and striping. I plan to get the mulch kit for whichever I buy, and use it always (I always mulch now with my push mower). I also plan to get the Hustler striping kit (the Ferris comes with one). I'd like to save the $1500 difference, but if I end up with stragglers and clumping and such, I'd rather have spent the extra IF it would've gotten me better results.
What's your opinion?
P.S. Borrowing a demo unit would be be ideal, but I don't have a trailer, and would also worry I might damage their mower since I'm new to ZTR.
P.P.S. the Hustler is 650 lbs., while the Ferris is 954 lbs and has narrower tires, front and rear. Should I be worried about ruts?
My property is almost an acre, and using the cool Google Earth area measurement tool at daftlogic.com, it looks like about .55 acre of it is actual grass. So I figure 25 hours a year usage max. Based on that, and my yard being flat, most of the advantages of the Ferris over the Hustler (ZT-3400 hydros vs 2800's, Kawi FS engine vs FR, 10mph vs 7.5mph, 4 year warranty vs 3 year) don't seem worth the extra money for my situation.
No real differences in the dealers, either. Both well-established businesses, nice folks, and both are 3 miles from me, practically across the street from each other.
So for me it just comes down to the quality of the cutting, mulching and striping. I plan to get the mulch kit for whichever I buy, and use it always (I always mulch now with my push mower). I also plan to get the Hustler striping kit (the Ferris comes with one). I'd like to save the $1500 difference, but if I end up with stragglers and clumping and such, I'd rather have spent the extra IF it would've gotten me better results.
What's your opinion?
P.S. Borrowing a demo unit would be be ideal, but I don't have a trailer, and would also worry I might damage their mower since I'm new to ZTR.
P.P.S. the Hustler is 650 lbs., while the Ferris is 954 lbs and has narrower tires, front and rear. Should I be worried about ruts?
D110 loses speed while mowing
I have had this mower for almost two years. It has 84 hours on it and has been great. I mow about 1/2 acre of perfectly flat yard. It suddenly has lost speed when mowing, in fact the longer you mow the slower it gets. I removed the deck and inspected the drive belt, couldn't really see anything wrong but I went ahead and replaced the belt thinking it may have stretched. When compared to the new one, I didn't really see any noticeable difference. I installed the new one anyway and still moves slow. The idler pulleys are fine. It's almost like the belt is too long. The engine doesn't miss a beat. It's either a belt slippage issue or the hydro unit. Any thoughts?
LA 135 special edition gas tank bad
Gas cap went bad (vent not working) and tank expanded with bottom going into transmission fan which cut tank. Replacement tank from dealer is not a fit in this model. Pt no GY2876 is very loose in the compartment and the plastic fitting is hitting the metal frame that the seat bolts to (rear right corner). Also the gas level window does not fit the opening in the fender deck (tank is to low in the back sloping away from the top of the opening. Is there a tank kit for this model that will fit and last???
Mower deck MTD Deck is not lifting high enough ?
Hello all, new member here. I have an old 12 1/2 hp 38 in cut MTD 7 speed. The deck, all of a sudden, will not lift to the highest notch on the lift lever. Because of this the blades do not disengage. When I try to start it, the lift lever is about two notches from the highest setting therefore the blades are not fully disengaged and the starter is turning the motor and blades. I have checked everything, for broke,bent, obstacles and I see nothing out of place. If anyone can give me some suggestions on what to look for, I'd really appreciate it. Thank You !
10518 spraying fuel from gas cap
I have a 10518 that I bought used 20+ years ago die on me last fall, it also started leaking gas onto the deck at the same time. Took it to a repair shop this spring and when I got it back, it still leaked. Took it back again. Leak was fixed (new shut off valve), but now it sprayed gas out the cap. Took it back again and they said ports were plugged (weird-didn't spray before). Paid them $30+ to clean, still sprays! Won't go back there again. Any thoughts on cause and cure?
Thanks
Thanks
Repairs weed eater one riding mower chain / sprocket repair
I got this Weed Eater One model 261 riding mower for a very small narrow yard and the guy I bought it from says the chain stretched and keeps falling off. Well the sprocket is flimsy plastic and I think that is the actual problem and not the chain. Anyone replace one of these? I looked on Sears parts and the new replacement part looks like metal instead of plastic. Just wondered if someone knows that it has been upgraded to metal since it seems to be such a common problem.
banjomaniac
banjomaniac
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