jeudi 1 octobre 2015

Help troubleshooting deck issue

I picked up a non running LX255 and now have it running great. I mowed with it briefly and the deck was in good condition just very dirty and the blades and deck belt were worn. I installed new blades, the "cups" / spindle guards and a new deck drive belt (Stens Part # 265-242) and inspected the deck spindle belt and put it back on. I removed the spindles and cleaned them and inspected them and put them back on. I removed the deck belt pulley and cleaned it and inspected the two bearings and put it back on. The deck went back on smoothly. I started the mower and when I engaged the PTO the engine bogged down and died. I restarted it and was able to turn the PTO on/off/on/off and then on to start the blades turning before fully engaging it. The PTO then engaged and stayed running. After a few minutes I disengaged the PTO and then it did engage with one pull of the switch but I could tell it was struggling. When the PTO is engaged it significantly reduces the overall engine power. Did I do something wrong? I first thought is that the new deck drive belt is too tight, if so, what deck adjustment would I make to relieve the tension? What else could cause this?


gh 718d final drive, no forward or reverse

Hello to all,
Make Model: Grass Hopper 52" cut Model 718D, Serial 291101
Questions:
1) I am new to this forum and don't see many 'new' threads. Is this forum is still active?

2) Can someone tell me what the year and make/model of my hydraulic pump and final drive is?

Problem:
There is 'very little' forward or reverse motion to the left drive wheel. I jacked the mower off the ground and started engine. The right wheel spins forward and reverse as normal, the left wheel just rotates slowly in forward and reverse with little power or speed.

History:
The final drive in question had been leaking hydraulic fluid (Would empty the reservoir in an hour of mowing). I would carry fluid with me and add when stopped moving to get back to the garage. IE: Ran low/empty a few times.
The leak was found to be caused by breached gaskets in the final drive casing pieces.
I disassembled the final drive, installed new gaskets and reassembled, with new filter and fluid.
The leak stopped, but now have new 'problem' (see above).

Diagnostics, so far:
I am in NY. I called a GH dealer whom would actually talk to me, in Florida, and the mechanic told me to jack the unit and let run until fluid bled air from the drive. This did not help.
He then said the pump must be failing. He told me the pump must be failing and to start with taking the 'top' off the pump and look for damage??? I took the 5 bolts out and lifted the top housing (containing filter) off. All I see is the parking brake lever hovering over a couple of small stainless steel BBs sized balls in a seat. If I spin the tire, I can see these balls moving up and down, depending on which way I spin the tire. I also see the pump cooling fan attempting to turn, IE: Nudging.

Questions:
3) Is it possible to reassemble the drive improperly? IE: can parts go back together in the wrong order or position and still be able to bolt together the housing? I was working off a blowout diagram that was not 100% clear. The kind Florida dealer faxed it to me.

4) Could running the pump without fluid damage the pump? Where would I find this damage?

Seems TOO coincidental that just after I worked on the drive, the pump fails?? I had been just adding fluid for quite some time and drive always worked well, after adding the fluid...

I await your comments/help/experiences...
Thanks,
Larry