weed eater Briggs and Stratton mower idle surges?

The mower isn't that old. It was bought around 2009. It was used until 2011 and then put up. And then I started using it again in 2013.

While I was mowing last summer, I bumped the spark plug wire/front of engine against a picnic table, like bumped it lightly, and the mower ran funny and died. It wouldn't start, so knowing the spark plug wire was right there when I bumped into the picnic table, I unhooked it and hooked it back in, and still no start. I then unhooked the spark plug wire, turned the wire around, plugged it back, and it started running. Although it runs now, the idle seems to surge ever since this happened. Or if I'm on an incline, the mower almost dies and then idles back high. It seems to surge more on an incline. It almost sounds like it idles lower and sounds like crap, but while it's moving, it starts it's surging.

Also, when I started using the lawn mower again in 2013, I drained the old oil and refilled it a bit too much, and it always smoked on inclines.

It has a Briggs and stratton flathead motor. Any ideas? Could it be the ignition coil?

grasshopper steering problem

Grasshopper 227 steering problems
I have a problem steering my 227. When I push the arms forward, I have to hold the right arm back because the left arm is not giving me much power. How do you adjust this? Thanks Rylan

Intek 18 hp valve problem

The intek 18 hp engine on my Troy Bilt mower was making noise and buring oil. My mower repair friend said the head gasket was leaking (a common problem) and the noise is from a muffler. I changed the head gasket and now I have a problem adjusting the valves to the proper specs. I have the adjusting bolt in as far as it will go and the the valve gapS are still too large (.010 and .015). What am I doing wrong or what is the problem.

Husqvarna M-ZT 61 which engine

Hi I'm new here and I'm looking to buy a M-ZT 61next weekend. My question is do I buy the 27 HP Briggs or pay the extra I think 400 to get the 23 HP Kawasaki. I talked to the mechanic at the dealer he said pay the extra. He said the have had a few Briggs motors come back. Don't know if he was just saying that or what. He said the Kawasaki has more power than what's advertised.

I will be using this mower only for my yard. My yard is about 4 acres. The backyard is kind of thick so I hope either one will throw the grass and not just lay it down. Thanks and please give reasons to why 1 is better than the other. Don't want brand bashing saying o Briggs sucks

Honda HRX217 Review

I recently bought an HRX217 and thought I'd share what I think about it. Let me start by saying it's a keeper. No doubt about it. For me, at least. But I wouldn't recommend it to everyone. And I'll get to the reasons why after I tell you why I like it.

The biggest reason I like the 217 more than any other mower I've used is the GCV190 engine - it's strong and smooth. If you're an inherently lazy SOB like me - and try to slide by cutting your grass every 10 days or so - then the 190 has the power to let you do it. No slowing down in the thick stuff, no lifting the front end of the deck, no restarts when it stops...nothing. I can't say enough about how it powers through tall grass and leaves a velvet smooth finish in its wake. Really, it's something else.

I also like the plastic deck. I didn't think I would, but - so help me - I do. It's more rigid than a steel deck and I won't have to worry about ugly rust in a few years. It even has a lifetime guarantee on the deck itself - what more can I ask for? Since you asked, I'll tell you: it collects dust. Not terribly bad, mind you, but definitely more so than a painted steel deck. I'm not sure why, but it bugs me a bit.

About the cut - it's darn smooth. People have noticed, and that makes me happy. One thing I really like about it over the HRR216 (and I've had two) is that it doesn't leave a slime trail under the rear wheels like the smaller mower does. That's a real plus in my book.

Let me finish what I like about it by talking about select drive. I had read that it is really useful for people who do a lot of mowing on flat land at constant speed - just turn the dial, set the cruising speed, and be off. Personally, I don't see the real advantage of it over the smart drive mouse ears on other honda mowers for flat land. Anybody can set the smart drive to the speed of their liking when the going is smooth, so it's of no real benefit. It's when the going is hilly that select drive really comes into its own. When you're powering up a hill with smart drive and accidentally hit the mouse ears, the mower takes off, does a wheelie, and leaves a patch of grass uncut. But when you have select drive set at a low speed on a hill, you can't accidentally call up too much speed no matter how heavy handed you are. I like that feature. A lot.

Now that I've told you what I like about it, let me get to my biggest complaint - it's a bit unwieldy. Not terrible, I guess, but you can't whip it around like the smaller HRR216. It weighs more, too. And the plastic deck just seems wider to me, somehow. I guess what I'm saying is that it just seems like more work to cut with it. On flat land, at least. On hills and tall grass....no contest. The HRX is the champ.

So...here's my take on it. If you have a flat yard which you keep cut regularly, then I would recommend the HRR216. It's easier to maneuver, easier to clean, and costs less to boot. If you have steep hills or are less rigorous about mowing, then I would recommend the HRX217. Simple as that.

Mower deck gearbox kubota

looking for gearbox ZD28 mower, part number RCK72P-28Z

My mtd resurrection

Picked this guy up for 60$ on Craigslist brought it home engine turned out to be frozen got it unlocked would not crank I had to replace the blade safety switch then would not start replaced the magneto it fired right up and me and my daughter took our maiden voyage today up the driveway and back

This was all possible due to me lurking on these forums just wanted to sign up and thank yall

Now I have to figure out why Shifting from 1st to 7th dosent change the speed at all

Too much gas

I ran out of gas and after refilling the tank, it now continually floods gas into the engine. The fuel line appears to be siphoning fuel on its own. Any ideas how to slow the flow?

stx46 mower deck shut off

I was doing fine mowing yesterday when all of a sudden my mower deck turns off, as if I slipped off the seat. I don't think it's the PTO switch because when I engage the PTO and attempt to get off the seat, the mower shuts off. So the circuit is open when I get off the seat but closed when I get back on when I have the PTO engaged.

Re-read my manual but I'm not seeing if there is another fail-safe switch for safety that I can inspect. What else should I check to troubleshoot where else I can see what might be the culprit? thx, sam

New Honda HRX217 Surging, Hunting, Oscillating Idle Problem - Solved!

I posted a question on this forum a week or two ago about a new HRX217 that was surging at start up - the mower would hunt up and down around the idle point for 20-30 seconds until it settled down, and I wanted to see if this was a problem. A reply from a long time forum user told me that he had recently purchased an HRX217 himself and his mower did the same thing for the first time or two he started it. He suggested I give it a few days and see if it wouldn't quit doing that. I decided to do just that and - lo and behold! - my mower stopped doing it, too. Runs like a top with a rock solid idle that settles down within a second or two, now. And I thought it might be useful to someone else to post this here, in case they buy an HRX217 and it does the same thing.

50 years of pushing a Lawnboy

Hi folks - I just found this forum when looking online for 'Lawnboy Oil'

I had been out of the active Lawn Boy users for a few years. I had passed my LB on to my son when he bought a house a few years back. It had been generally sitting in the back of the shed because I was using a Craftsman rider for my 3/4 acre yard and trimming with a weed wacker. Well we just closed on a small building lot in town (only 1/4 acre, I'm getting tired of cutting grass and dealing with trees) and I told my son that I would need to start borrowing the LB to keep the lot trimmed while we decide what to build there. He said I could bring it home as they had gotten a sweet deal from a lawn service and hadn't fired it up this year. He had run it dry last fall and put it in his shed.

I picked it up along with the empty gas can and brought it home. Yesterday I bought some Toro 2cycle oil (since it had the ratio for 1:32 misture on the label and I knew I wouldn't find Lawn Boy oil) mixed up some gas, filled the tank and moved it out to a smooth spot outside the shed. I pumped the bulb about 8 times and pulled the cord. It sputtered. I pulled the cord again and it ROARED. It ran rough for about 10 seconds then settled down. I moved it to some grass and decided I need to reset the height. I let go of the deadman handle. It died and I adjusted the wheels. Went behind it grabbed the handle and pulled the cord. I don't think it got 1/3way thru the pull when it roared back to life. I can't say I'm surprised I've used Lawn Boys for years and once they start in the spring they always start.

I realized today that I've been using Lawn Boys off and on for 50 years. Always 21" pushers, never a self propelled model. There were a few years I strayed from LBs. When I bought my first house I was in a city far distant from where I grew up. Couldn't a ford a Lawn Boy but needed a mower. I borrowed one from a neighbor a couple times. It was a generic B&S engined machine. It ran okay and I learned how to nurse it into starting and running. Suddenly he was transferred overseas and offered me the mower (and some other yard tools) for a nominal price. For the postage stamp I had it worked. A few years later I moved back 'home to central MD and kept using the 'beast'. I was at a local hardware/home improvement store (Hechingers if anyone remembers them) and saw a Lawn Boy offered on sale. It looked like it had been used once or twice. the Department Manager told me a woman had bought it because her husband was travelling all the time and she was tired of fighting their mower into starting. That was on a Wednesday. She used it twice before her husband came home from a trip and said he didn't want to be bothered with mixing gas and she didn't know anything about engines. The mower was returned and it sat in the back. It was now September and they wanted to clear the back out to get ready for Winter items. We dickered a few minutes and I got him to come down some more. I can't remember now what I paid for it but I think it was about 50% of list and about 25% below what I had seen the best sale price.

That was 1986. It has been cutting grass ever since.

First Lawn Boy was bought by my father in 1964. It was supposed to be an 18" pusher but the Department store didn't have any for their advertised sale and we got a 21" for the same price. We had just bought a house with 1.5 acres most of which had 'gone wild'. I wish I knew the model number. It had a magnesium deck and the under deck exhaust. The next year I was 11 and Dad figured I was 'big enough' to handle the mower. From then til I went into the Air Force 11 years later it was my job to cut the entire 1.5 acres. The front 1/2 acre had to be kept like a yard. the back acre was a work in progress. That LB handled 1" thick wild rose, sassafras seedlings and wild forsythia. It also took out a few snakes, wild mice and a couple ground bee nests.

I can't remember when we got the second LB. The big difference was the steel deck and that the rear wheels had a single lever to adjust the height. I never really liked that one but it never let me down. Funny thing the month I went to Basic Dad bought a riding mower. :-)

Oh well thanks for listening

Yardman self propelled

Hi all, I am trying to fix a Yardman ... model # 12AV829C755 ,21" mower for a neighbour, with the drive belt off, the transmission pulley spins freely, I'm pretty sure that this indicates a broken shaft,or key .... yes ?.I am reluctant to delve any further into this issue. Is the pulley keyed to a shaft or perhaps a set screw has come loose :)
Thanks.

112 jd

hi new here got a 112 when mowing backfires dies and starts right up

Tires RE 130 Has Terrible Front Bearings

I have a 2013 RE 130 rear engine rider. I just jacked up the mower to remove a front tire and I notice how much the front tires wobble. I took them both off the their is an incredible amount of play in all of the front wheel bearings. The bearings seem intact with not missing ball bearings but you can literally move each tire sideways about a 1/2". I have some bulges in one of the tubeless tire side walls. Does anyone have a source for some after market front wheel assemblies with better bearings and 4 ply tires? Front tire assembly is 7105138YP Tire is 11 X 4.00 - 4.

Opportunity to Buy a 2004 757

Greetings all...I am new to the forum and am looking for some advice. I have an opportunity to purchase a 2004 JD 757 Ztrak mower that has 314 hours on it. The person who is selling it just purchased a larger Kubota ZTR and is selling this one. I will be using it to mow ~3 acres. He is offering it to me for $2500, which to me sounds like a very good deal. I have looked it over and driven it and it appears to be in excellent shape. (This person actually works for me and has for the last 3 years...I trust him completely). The hydraulic oil and filter have not been changed since new, as the manual says to change it every 500 hours...but it also says to do it yearly? Regardless, if I buy it I will be changing it, and the manual also says to check the valve clearance and lap valve seat surface, which has not been done yet. I have adjusted valves on a car engine, but never a mower, and have never heard of having to lap the seat surface as regular maintenance...any idea what I should expect to pay to have the dealer do this? Sorry for all the questions...just new to the ZTR and JD world...any advice or suggestions would be appreciated.

Thanks!

How long do you keep a mower

I seen on earlier post 10 years for a mower life? First of all I buy used if I can. I bought my push mowers in the 70's, my JD 1980, my Wheel Horse 1991, and my Ferris 1999 new and only one I ever bough new. The push mowers only get used for trim work so they don't get many hours per year, The JD mows my camp, Wheel horse for snow removal and the Ferris gets used hard by more then one family weekly+. All I care about is that they run and do there job. I do give them a paint job with a paint brush when they start to get scratched and rusty. I give my mowers yearly maintenance and they are in top mechanical repairs. How long do you keep your mower and when do you determine when to replace it?

1642 snapper will not start

My 1642 will not start ,I have checked the spark plugs ,gas,it will turn over but will not fire,I can't find the fuse or brake switch. Help please.

Repairs troy bilt TB675EC gas trimmer

anyone know of where to get replacement starter pawls
have looked all over , echo has some that look close but not sure if dimensions are the same

suburbs

Celebrating our 1 year anniversary in "Brecksependence" (suburban chimera of Independence and Brecksvillle Ohio). Borrowed Pop's riding but it broke. Borrowed his next but then my truck gave out. Borrowed his broke MTD push mower, fixed it. Wished for a riding--bought neighbor's Craftsman LT1000 last week. Looking for excuses to ride it every day!

Anybody know who makes this ZTR for Sears

Craftsman branded, 42" stamped deck, 22hp Briggs v-twin:

Sears.com



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LX277 won't free wheel

the hose from hydraulic fluid resevoir started to leak and I lost about a quart of fluid before I noticed but after I refilled the tank and used the tractor I can't get it to free wheel. Is this a coincidence or something else? All the linkage seems to be ok.

Echo SRM-225 problem

I just purchased an Echo SRM-225 string trimmer from Home Depot two weeks ago. The choke lever was REALLY hard to move to closed. After removing the air filter cover, I found the black plastic choke flap was not clearing the metal piece the air filter bolt threads in to. I added two thin flat washer to the metal bridge, which gave the flap enough clearance to close. Not sure if mine was dropped and bent, or all in this batch have this problem. Sorry, can't upload an image.

Jeff

Toro Offers New High Lift Grass Collection System for Groundsmaster® 360

Toro now offers a new high lift grass collection system option for the Groundsmaster® 360 Quad-Steer™, the only four-wheel-steer mower of its kind. This accessory makes grass [...]

Read this article on LawnWorld

D-600 ignition modules

What are you guys doing to replace bad D-600 ignition modules? I can't seem to find any alternative replacements. Plenty of F engine and D points/condenser stuff; but no D-600 modules???

While I'm on the subject, it seems like pistons and Jugs for Ds aren't out there anymore, either?

Has Anybody built a folding deck for a commercial walk behind?

Something that will pass through a 36" gate then unfold to a decent cutting width, 42" or wider:thumbsup: I know about cub cadets feeble attempt, I was thinking more along the lines of diy results.

Deere Hood

I just got a John Deere LT180 and the hood has a spot on it about the size of a half dollar. It looks something like tree sap. I have tried and tried and can't seem to find the right thing to remove it. The harshest thing I used was some rubbing compound and it did not faze it. Any suggestions or maybe something that you have used with sucess? Thanks

Repairs Help with 1996 Honda H2013 transmission

I have a 1996 Honda H2013 5speed tractor. I've replaced the transmission once and now its gone out again. Are these transmissions a problem on these tractors? The manual says no parts available for the transmission. Who manufactured these transmissions? Does anyone know? I know that these transmissions must have repair parts available somewhere.
The tractor has never been abused, well taken care of. Would like to get it going again, but can't see another $400 transmission on a 19 year old mower.
Thanks

Gas leak Honda HTR3009

Fuel leaks very slowly from unidentified component (vented?) which is bolted to frame and connected by rubber line to carburetor. Does not leak with fuel valve in OFF position. Can't find schematic for fuel system to identify this part.

Got the old Lawnboy out again

I re-inherited my old Lawnboy from my son. It went to him when he bought a house with a yard a couple years back because I was doing my 3/4 acre with a riding mower and a weedwacker. Well We are planning on downsizing to a smaller place soon and just bought a building lot that is 12000 sq ft. I was planning on borrowing the LB every couple weeks to keep it under control but found out that Son got a great deal on a lawn service and hadn't gotten the LB out this year at all. Got the mower out today and mixed up a fresh batch of gas (It looks like no one sells 'LawnBoy Oil' anymore so I settled for Toro oil because it had the mix ratio for 32:1 on the side. Son had run it dry last fall and put it in the shed. I figured what the heck I'll put gas in it and see what happens. Open the full flow, 8 pushes on the primer bulb pull the cord through once not expecting much.one short sputter. Pulled again and before the cord was all the way out it was roaring gave it a sample pass in the back corner decided the setting was too short let loose of the deadman to kill it and adjusted the wheels. held the deadman in gave the cord a quick flick and away we went. I love Lawn Boy!

Zinc additive?

Yay or Nay? I know to break in a cam on a car engine it is recommended a lot of the time to use ZDDP additive until the first oil change. What about a Small mower engine? I just bought a Gravely Zero turn with a 25hp Briggs engine. Was curious if I should drop a little additive in? Also what about with every oil change?

Thanks
Aaron

Turf Tiger Rebuild

Ok guys as promised I will start posting up a few shots as I progress through the rebuild of my recently acquired Turf Tiger 2001 year with Kohler 25HP engine.

This mower was in a sad state when I bought it but at a bargain price I could not resist the challenge.

After initially determining that most things were repairable I set to stripping the unit down.

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Next it was time to get out the paint stripper, lethal stuff that, and strip down the main body.

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The first major job to tackle was to rectify someones attempt to repair the wheel motor mount. I am not sure the history behind why the motor mount was removed and rebuilt as the mower came from an auction house. If you are reading this anyway and you did the repairs I suggest you learn to weld (LOL).

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There was no way I was leaving it in that state so rather than make good I decided to cut it off and make a new one from scratch.

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Very pleased with the outcome once fabricated and welded back to the frame and its starting to look like standard again.

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You will notice in this photo that the same certified welder had attempted a repair on the rear pulley housing. They also welded the engine support plate to the rear housing due to the end of the engine mount fracturing and snapping off. Again not sure what had happened here but I am in the process of rectifying that so will post up pictures when it is complete. While in the process I am going to reinforce the pump mounting areas with an additional 3mm sandwiched plate much the same as the way the driveshaft spindle is reinforced.

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This will be a weekly update due to work etc so until next week.

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Older Toro 580 D trouble

I have an older 580 D Toro that I have had 3 different mechanics out working on an after spending $2,000 dollars still have the same problem. When I mow taller grass the front and right hand deck do great but the left hand mower just lays the grass over. It almost acts they the blades loose the speed and power to cut it. They keep messing with the hydraulic panel on the left front side of the machine. I am told pressure checks all come out right and that seals have all been replaced. The motor is not leaking and I find no leaks on the lines going to that drive motor. Is there a way to test that drive motor to see if it is loosing power under a load? Should I just replace the drive motor? Has anyone else had a problem similar to this?
On normal height grass this mower runs like a champ. I love the mower just cant find why the problem. Please email me at ddowney66040@outlook.com with any suggestions.

propane tank

I am trying to get a spare propane tank. I have found one but it has the fitting with the threads opposite of mine. Mine is 43 lb horizontal on a Toro 6000. What tank designations to I need to watch for?

Engine MCGHS - Won't turn over

Ran the mower for 3 hours all went well. Shut it off and the next day opened the "lid", lifted the seat, and sprayed all the leaves off the engine with a hose. Let it dry. Several hours later went to start the engine all that happened is a metallic click sound. Sounded like the starter was trying to kick in but all that was heard was a click sound. According to the owner, it was they sound they hear when the battery is to low to turn the engine over. Put a battery charger on the unit for 24 hours and no improvement. Removed the battery a week later, cells are full, and the voltage is 12.32 V, battery was new in 2013. Mower does not get a lot of use.

Any thoughts as to how to get the engine to turn over, or fix the metallic click sound.

Thank you.

Bumped head and now shaft might be tweeked?

I bumped the head of my Stihl FS-45 trimmer and now I think the shaft might be bent. I didn't bump it hard at all but apparently it was enough to cause the head to not spin very fast at all, a burning smell, and the bend of the shaft is very hot when I try to give it gas.
Is my shaft bent?

rough running and backfire after rebuild

Hello,

I just rebuilt my CV492S (18HP, single cyl OHV, about 750 hours, installed in Cub LT1018). I had complete valve job and cylinder hone by a local auto machine shop. New battery, starter, and plug. Fuel pump and carb replaced last year or two so I'm assuming they are still good. Non-adjustable valve lash. New std size rings. New breather tube. All new fuel hose and filter. No other major parts replaced that I can think of. Used fresh 91 octane fuel with stabilizer after rebuild - same fuel source used in push mower with no issues.

The engine ran great for about 30 minutes after initial checks and carb adjustments: about 10 minutes under no/low load with varying throttle, about 20 minutes under load, then began running very rough, no power, loss of rpm, and lots of backfire (not every stroke).

No oil leaks, no oil coming out of breather.

Still cranks well with plug unplugged. I have removed the valve cover and can see valves lifting as I turn the engine by hand, but no further disassembly yet.

Any ideas of what to check? Would like to know what to look for before further disassembly.

Thanks a whole bunch for the help.

Devo65

Hi. I have an exmark metro 36 inch walk behind. It sat all of last year after having been serviced at the dealer at end of year before. Trying to start and it's a no go. pulled the plug and its brand new as well as air filter. Gas was empty and I put new in. Anything I should look at first or try. any help would be appreciated. Thanks

Buchanan, Georgia

Hi everyone. Pretty handy divorced 56 year old female. The PTO belt came off my cub cadet. I was looking to see if it was something I could handle myself without having to load it up and THEN find someone to repair it reasonably. Maybe I just put a bandage on the situation, but I just slipped the belt back on and it worked perfect this morning.

Bob-Cat Ransome Engine Problems

Hi, working on a Bob-Cat Ransome mower with the Kawasaki engine. I started it up for the first time this season and it ran fine, then when I went to start it the next week it wouldn't start. I made sure it had spark, good fuel, all handles were in their proper place, etc., still nothing. I then took the air filter off and sprayed ethanol into the filter and it started, but only ran for maybe 10-20 seconds before I watched the air filter housing fill up with gas and the engine shut off, I assume due to it flooding out.

I thought it might be the carb but when I took off the carb, I pulled the pull start and that little rod in the engine behind the carb didn't move, not sure if this is normal. Here is the part I am talking about:

I removed the valve cover and when I pulled the pull start, the two rods with the springs on them moved fine, nothing looked strange there. I'm no mechanic so I can't be sure of what the problem is but that rod in the picture not moving when I pull the cord seems strange. Any insight would be helpful. Thanks

mud

where I live here in N.E. Kansas we've only had 4 days this month w/o rain.My grass was getting out of control so the other day I decided to cut what I could of my "swamp" and wound up getting stuck in mud.I had to pull my mower out w/my tractor.I run turff tires and they turn into slicks in the mud.I see alot of Grasshoppers w/tires that have ridge treads that look like they might be alot better in mud.can somebody with these tires tell me if they work good on a less than perfect lawn....russ

suspension seat

I have a Fast Trak SD and I'd like to add a suspension seat to go with my flex forks..just don't which ones are compatible with my machine..anyone have a Fast Trak with a suspension seat or have knowledge on which one I should purchase...thanks

Toro SS5000 won`t go.

After an episode where I got into some boggy ground and got the mower mired down and had to pull it out the mower won`t go. Starts fine. The mower belt seems to work fine but the machine will not go forwar or reverse. Any help out there?

Rear engine Craftsman runs but doesn't drive wheels after loud pop/bang

Model No. 502.256220 Sears Craftsman riding mower with rear engine

When mowing over some tree roots and being jostled around, there was a noticeable bang/pop sound from behind me, and the wheels stopped driving forward. I suspect something is broken in the transaxle....but what? My wise neighbor says that it should have been a cotter pin that broke. Looking at the transaxle schematic, I don't see any cotter pin, but there are clutch keys and a woodruff key in some gear assembly. The belt is not broken. The engine runs. The clutch feels normal. The gear selector feels normal.

What do you folks think?

electrical problem...I think

Hello all,

I have a snapper sr1433 hi vac with a 14.5 hp ohv briggs engine and I am having starting issues. The mower ran great before it didnt... A week before I started having issues I replaced the spark plug, air filter and changed the oil for the season. The mower was staring every first key turn with no issues. Then I got a call from my wife stating the mower shut off and she couldn't get it started. When I came home I put a spark plug tester on and it indicated there was no spark. Being that the mower ran great before I figured a bad part. I immediately ordered a magneto. After replacing it I still am not making spark.

I have looked over the wiring and think there may be a wire that was disconnected. It would explain the sudden loss of spark...looking over the wiring I noticed that there are two wires coming from under the flywheel, sorry if I am calling it the wrong thing but I'm referring to the part the starter engages and it also brushes the magneto to make spark, and it has two wires a red and a black. The red is run directly to the positive side of the solenoid. The other is disconnected. However I think maybe it is supposed to be as some diagrams showed headlights run off that black lead from the alternator, and I don't have any. I also noticed a red wire coming off of the positive terminal of the solenoid going to a fuse and back towards the engine. It had a connector that looked like it had a wire ripped out of it. I have no idea where it would go.

With no spark and a suspect wire I think this may be the culprit. I just don't know where to go with t. Hope someone can help.

Snapper SR1433
Model: 287707
Type: 1235-e1
Code: 9904292e

Hunting for next mower

We need fast and nimble rear wheel no frills work horse. Drove Huskvarna with 700 Briggs into ground on tough 1/3 major obstical lawn with garden over 9 years. Would like craftsman rear wheel basic but with bigger engine than 150cc OHV. Or Honda HRR 216 with out variable speed.
Question: Is there a source for mixing mowing decks with engines?
Thanks for any ideas.
Mer

New Pull Cord Will Not Budge After a Few Inches

Hello, all,

DISCLAIMER: I am NOT a mechanic. Not even close.

I installed - somewhat, I guess, LOL - a Driveworks pull cord on my MTD YM with a B&S 12H802-0652-01 (5.5 hp). I ran into a problem when I tried to pull the cord up gently toward the handlebars to where you grab the cord handle to yank and start the mower.

If I hold the rewind assembly by itself, not attached to the mower, the cord comes out just fine. If I put it on the mower, and release the brake, it moves a few inches and then jerks to a stop.

I do need to put SAE30 in the mower; that was next on my mower agenda. Is it refusing to budge because there's no oil in there? Or do I need to totally assemble the thing before testing the pull cord? Is something going on with my flywheel brake? Go ahead, get your laughs out now. I work in IT :wink::tongue:

Please tell me I made a silly, rookie mistake and it'll only take me a few minutes and some greasy fingertips to get going again.

Thanks!

Sudden change

Model 281223BVE, when I have the brake pressed all the way down, it runs and idles fine,then when I start to release the brake,it runs as if it has the choke on,it pops and hardly will run. This happened suddenly,worked one day and not the next.Its like it has a switch,or some kind of sensor connected to the brake.

Honda Tiller

Just had a job come into my shop which was a tiller with a Honda engine. Ever time it would go under a load it would start running bad. I knew it needed carburetor work. When I went on line to look for parts I found a new carburetor only cost 18 dollars. I couldn't rebuild the old one for that amount of money. When the new carburetor came and I installed it ran like a new tiller. If Honda can sell a new carburetor for only 18 dollars why can't other company's do the same. Last year I needed a new carburetor for a Kohler and as I recall it cost me over 250 dollars.

Scag Striping Kit

Im wondering if a striping kit from a turf tiger will fit on my Scag Freedom Z 61 inch ( SFZ61 )

all the part numbers match up except that the striping kit made for the turf tiger is longer then the one made for the freedom Z and the mounting brackets are different part #'s.

My question is would the Striping kit from the Turf Tiger fit the Freedom Z i have.

Thanks

Courage 20 Won't Crank

Hello,
I have a 6 year old Husqvarna lawn tractor with a Kohler Courage 20 engine. Sometime last year it started getting hard to start, now it's to the point where the starter will spin the flywheel 1 revolution and then stop. If you hold the key to the crank position it will eventually do another revolution then stop & continue on that cycle. After reading through forums I learned of the automatic compression release and that it can be affected by the valves being out of spec. So far I have adjusted the valves (2 or 3 times for good measure), changed the battery & starter solenoid, checked the starter and cleaned all wiring connections. When I pull the spark plug out it will crank till the battery's dead. I'm dead set that this is a compression issue, but the valve lash is not correcting the issue. Is there any where else that anyone can point me? I'm sure that the cam lobe for the ACR could be worn or something else could be wrong internally, I just find it hard to believe that is the case being that it is only 6 years old with a little over 200 hours (if that) on it.

Thanks in advance!

Blades Wont Engage

On my Fastrak SD I dis-engaged the blades to cross the driveway and afterwards they wont re-engage? I took the panel off and checked for any loose wires. I unplugged the switch and made sure it was plugged in good after checking for any loose connections. Matter of fact I tried checking ALL connections. Still seems to have no power on the pull switch. Also checked the 2 fuses and theyre OK. Bad Switch or what?!? Looks like a trip to the shop and only 2 years old.

Self Propell belt replacement on Lawnboy 106041

If anyone can provide any assistance. Would be greatly appreciated.

Cabela's tractors?

Who's manufacturing tractors for Cabela's?

how many horspeower does the HRX217VKA 190cc Honda have ?

This is a new to me used mower that was supposed to be needing carb work. I got it running and it pulls pretty hard. beyond any natural speed I would mow with unless I was doing long straight cuts.

anyhow...how many horses is this motor?

newbie to this forum but not to cuttn grass

hi everyone. Names Jim. Have a 3204 Cub Cadet and a Craftsman. Trying to undo the pto safety in reverse on the cub

Toro Groundsmaster® 7210-D Now Available With a 254 cm (100-Inch) Deck

The Toro Groundsmaster® 7210-D zero-turn rotary mower is now available with a new 254 cm (100-inch) articulating deck with a full rear discharge configuration. The increased mowing [...]

Read this article on LawnWorld

Buying New IS 2100Z 61 inch

Howdy ,

I am buying a new 2100 with the Vanguard engine , I was having trouble deciding on the Kow or the Briggs...did I make the right decision ?

Walk behind HRR21 Smart Drive Problems

Greetings guys!

New forum remember here. I have a Honda 21" walk behind self-propelled mower, the sticker says model number HRR2166VXC, s/n MZCG-8005608. That's the Canadian model number, but it's similar to the HRR2167VKA (and others). I bought this new in 2009 and I'm having problems with the drive wheel mechanism, specifically with the right rear wheel. Symptoms include the wheel wobbling and grinding noises when engaging the drive and mowing over bumpy areas or making turns.

I pulled the wheel and saw significant wear on the gear attached to the wheel as well as the pinion gear. I got a new wheel and pinion gear from the local parts dealer and replaced the old ones. This was fine for most of last year's mowing season, but the same problem is back. I think the problem is wear on the (fixed) axle itself. As soon as the wheel starts to wobble on the axle, the gear teeth will grind and it's downhill from there.

Short of replacing the whole rear axle shaft (don't know the part number), what can I do to repair this? Is there a way I can repair the axle? Is there some kind of sleeve I can use, or a better fitting wheel bearing? :confused3:

(Coincidentally I had the same problem with my old Toro mower - wear and tear of the wheel drive components. But the Toro used some plastic components, and the axle was wearing too. I threw a lot of parts at that Toro and finally bought the Honda when it was clear the old Toro need a new axle.)

My yard is roughly a quarter acre, some bumpy areas and some smooth, and a drainage ditch out front. No smooth golf course greens here. :tongue:

Thanks!

Buying New 2100 61

Howdy ,

I am buying a new 2100 with the Vanguard engine , I was having trouble deciding on the Cow or the Briggs...did I make the right decision ?

pto engageing with lever pulled back

i just joined this forum and am hoping i can find a salution to my problem.i have an
'09 troy-bilt pony riding mower that is having an issue when i try to crank it.i've replaced the switch under the lever with a new one and taken the cable off to lube it inside and reinstalled it.when i do crank it again it still acts as if the pto lever is in the forward position.it also has new belts on the deck and drive pullys.i hope this is enough information,if not then please let me know,thanks in advance for any forthcomeing info received.

Transaxle #218-3010

Mower just quite moving, Changed belts the results are the same. It tries to move in reverse only 3-4 inches

Snapper 38083 with Tecumseh TVXL 195

Howdy Folks,
My second post on LMF. I have a project Snapper I'm going thru to add to my fleet. It's a Snapper model 38083 Series 3 RER with a Tecumseh TVXL195.
I tore down the shifter and removed the chaincase. The shift inboard bushing was melted and the shift lever broken off. The previous owner was shifting it with visegrips on the lever. So I am after a method to reassemble this mechanism. This thing was a biotch to get off. The shift handle has a thru-hole, with pin and cotter pin outboard. Inboard is a huge spring. I took the bracket off the machine and think the proper way is to partially assemble all the parts, put it in a vice with 2 sockets as bearing points and collapse the spring until the shift rod sticks out enough to install the outboard shim, shift handle, locking pin and cotter pin. Anybody had any experience with getting the monster spring collapsed for reassembly?

Second question regards setting the carburetor cable adjustments on the speed control bracket that mounts on top. This Tecumseh has idle and high speed set screws on the governor arm. Any guides available on for initial set up of the speed control bracket>

Husqvarna RZ4216 wiring schematic with manual pto

I've just been through quit an ordeal with a RZ4216 using a manual pto lever. I didn't have access to a schematic for it, although their is one in the owners manual for the electric pto, but it is much different than what I found from the wiring. To my surprise, it doesn't even have a fuse! I'm not perfect, but this worked for me. One thing that is missing is the starter motor. it is connected between the start solenoid and the ground connection. I hope it will help someone else.

Attached Images

• Husqvarna RZ4216 wiring schematic 001 (763x1024).jpg (404.2 KB)

JD Z425

Z425 will not start. Battery is fully charged but 12v power seems to only happen in the battery. The hour meter does not com on.
Started and fine when I parked it about a week ago. I'm lost. Any help would be appreciated.

1966 Pennsylvania Meteor

Hey there I have a 1966 Pennsylvania Meteor. It is the hydro version with a snow plow. I have read that this model with the hydro is very rare because they were so expensive back then. It starts and runs great, but is getting a little slow moving in the winter. Anyone know of a shop or anywhere that could rebuild the hydro pump for me? Also is there an original "wide" seat out there for sale anywhere?
Any help appreciated

Stihl CM180 dead after 10 hours!

New here, I have a Stihl cm-180 chainsaw, used seven time in five years! Only used for pruning small tree branches (up to 6 inches thick) Now the piston and cylinder want replacing at €250! (about $230US)....Last Stihl product I will buy. Only thing I can think of is that as it was so long between usage that there was no lubrication left in the cylinder...it had evaporated so when I started it up it was running dry....bad design. Since looking on the web a lot of people seem to think it is OK to replace the piston every 50 hours.....I am going to buy a battery Ryobi next time....at least they work when you switch them on!

Do You Agree With This Diagnosis

I posted about this a couple of times, and finally took the mower to someone with experience. I'd like to know if you agree with their diagnosis.

JS46 walk behind mower with 190cc OHV Briggs engine... Crankshaft bent about four years ago, but been running fine until this season. Started fine at start of season, but became harder and harder to start the last two uses. Hits, but won't catch and start - pfffft pfffft pfffft pfffft pfffft is all I get now. Continuing to try to start it results in backfiring. When it did start, it ran as good as new. Valve backlash OK. Flywheel key OK. Spark plug has only about ten uses on it. Fuel is fresh.

Here the diagnosis. Since it ran fine once it started, the problem is not with the fuel. Since it backfires, spark is fine, but the backfiring indicates that the timing is off, even though the flywheel key is fine. The mechanic believes there is an internal problem with the cam, or the gears that drive the cam, and that this is causing the valve timing to be off. Cost to prove this would be considerable. Cost to fix it would be prohibitive.

Guys, what do you think? Is there any chance this is something simple that he and I are both missing?

Fuel

I have a Fast Trak SD and I refuse to burn ANY ethanol in it or any of my lawn equipment for that matter...the only non ethanol fuel I can find is 93 octane. My FX691V just hit it's 40 hour mark and I haven't had any problems so far...my question is...is it OK to burn 93 octane fuel in it all the time...thanks

New deck for older scag

I am wanting to replace my advantage deck with a new velocity deck. Is this doable? I have a tiger cub with about 800 hours on it.

toro tractor will not maintain constant rpm's

Purchased a new B & S 17.5 intek motor for my wife's lawn tractor several years ago to replace one that went bad. I noticed from day one that rpm's was too low and after putting a tack on it, showed 2600. No way to adjust it except to bend throttle rod some to get to 3400 rpm. Still will not maintain constant rpm, 3400 with no load, 2800 under load. Took it to a dealer and he has no idea why the governor will not maintain rpm. Everything moves freely and with engine running can speed it up by moving governor arm. I hate to be defeated by an engine but this one has got me baffled. Any ideas would be appreciated! Thanks, Richard

Reach, Repair Difficult Wiring: End Strippers

For tractor owners who can see, but cannot reach that broken or frayed wire. Just used a tool to repair broken alternator wire which was "in there," but unreachable. Impossible to strip ends with knife or common wire stripper-no room. Would require dismantling the side of the engine. Enter the "end style" stripper.

Not so common most resemble a pistol with the barrel end containing teeth that adjust to the wire gauge. You select the gauge, point thru the clutter and grip the wire end, and squeeze. After the stranded wire is exposed slip on shrink sleeve, make a pig tail splice , and solder. Use a Weller solder "gun" style which is also poked thru to the pig tail. I did find one "end style" crimper for those who prefer this style termination.

My old stripper is no longer made (Utica), but I surfed around . Take a look at : Knipex 11-02-160 , Maxim 15310, PGWS pistol, Titan 11478. The lone crimper OTC 5950 S. $18-$75.
Cannot vouch for quality.

john deere x534

I'm throwing in the towel. I purchased a 2010 JD X534 w/ 54" deck new and it ran perfect the first 2 summers. I mow approx. 8 ac. and have a 6ft finish mower on the back of my Ford 1715. The 3rd summer it started having surges in power and stalling out. I had it in and out of the dealer's shop 3 times and they couldn't figure out what the problem was. I even had a mechanic from there come out and mow 2 acres and of course it didn't do it. He also observed me mow an acre, and it still didn't have the problem. Season 4 and 5 were as bad and I took it to a different set of mechanics (same company, different town) and they couldn't reproduce the problem. I have been thru the manual many times w/o any help. I can tell you it's not the gas cap, fuel filter, fuel line, loose wires, spark plug, air filter, oil filter, or type of gas, as I have tried changing and checking all these and gone over it w/ the mechanics. (I'm just an ICU nurse, not a mechanic). So I'm trading it in for a 2015 X534 because I love the mower, but the dealer has promised me to let me know what the problem was, IF they ever find out. Hopefully they will before someone else buys it, but I doubt it. Anyone got any comments? I prob. should have asked before I made the deal, but I am highly frustrated and can't keep up w/ the mowing with all this rain as it is. I had to do something.:frown:

Do you NEED A NEW SEAT ??

This place has replacement mower seats at REASONABLE prices ......... check it out.


Surplus Center

Replace transmission drive belt on a Cub Cadet SLT1554

What are the steps to replace the transmission drive belt on a Cub Cadet Super LT1554? I know I will need to remove the mower deck... but then what?

Briggs V twin

That ride on that came in with the 22hp v twin will be left here says the owner! :biggrin:....gave it a leak down etc...this motor purrs like a kitten :cool2:

These engines are to good to part out...im thinking some kind of project/refurbish ???

New Craftsman?Husqvarna Mower

I have a new 42" inch cut Craftsman (Husqvarna) Mower with 3.2 Hours on it. When the steering while is positioned straight the left front tire is straight and the right front tire is turned sharply (about 30%) to the left. The mower has the new style steering mechanism on it and there doesn't appear to be any adjustment for the wheels. I have been to three different Sears stores and they all have brand new mowers on display that have the same problem. They have been of no help in resolving the problem and I have been waiting for two months for a technician to arrive. Anyone else experience this problem? Suggestions?

Repairs Service Manual- Walk Behind Drive Systems

http://ift.tt/1AASLUB

starter repair

I have a 26HP kohler command. The battery has 12+ volts. Starter doesn't seem to have power to turn engine over. I first thought it was dragging. Bushings seem ok. Rubber grommet that fits on drive pinion a little chewed up, not much. There was a little a little rubber between drive nut (collar) and drive pinion. Is drive nut metal to metal against drive pinion? PDF doesn't show anything between them. This doesn't look rite to me. Looks like the drive nut would grind against drive pinion. Starter spins fine off of engine. What do some of you think? Thanks

42" Dixon ZTR mower

Saw and ad in the paper today for a Dixon mower.
Man is out of town but, said I could look at it tomorrow.
I asked why he is selling and he said they converted yard to xeroscape and have very little grass.

He said everything works...I don't know hours, condition etc.

he said it has a B&S 15.5 HP

What prices would be good. Any comments or help about what to look at when I go see it.

I have never owned/driven a ZTR mower.
I would certainly have to sell a couple of mowers if I bought this. haha

John Deere LX 279

I recently bought this mower and it has an annoying safety feature, when mowing and then stopping to back up, the mower shuts off. I know this is a great safety feature so I don't back over a child, but I don't have any kids around me. Is there a way to defeat this?

B&D Electric mm575 motor internally shorted?

Hi all, I got a used B&D electric mower, started getting weak and losing power, then shutting off. I researched and checked the switch and rectifier config. Tried bypassing the switch, it tripped the breaker. Tried replacing the rectifier (which was bad, I tested it) and it still tripped the breaker. I read that the switch is an alternate-action double pole switch, which interrupts the AC input when the handle is released but also shorts the motor leads together to stop the blade sooner. Okay, whatever, but I found that the two leads to the motor read as a short even with everything disconnected. That can't be right. I can only conclude that the motor has an internal short. Any suggestions, comments?

Briggs motor possibly seized?

Poulan pro mower, briggs motor model: 12H802 type: 1922 F1 code: 99031856......the pull cord will barely pull, I dont want to pull it as it's so tight that it feels as though the cord itself will break if I tried to pull it hard enough to turn the motor over. I can spin the blade by hand with a decent amount of effort. Sounds slightly like metal on metal turning inside when I manually turn the blade. I'm assuming the motor isn't seized completely if I can spin the blade. Has old oil in it. Should I spray some pb inside the spark plug socket? When I turn the blade I can hear that there is compression. Thanks for any help!:thumbsup:

Haven't been on here very much

How have things been around here? I've been so busy with work and life in general that I haven't really had the chance to be on here :eek:

I'll post about how I've been soon. Probably later tonight or tomorrow.

Hi fellow LawnWorld members!

I just joined this site. Don't know how to maneuver the site yet.
I do have a question: I have a Troy-Bilt auto drive lawn tractor
Super Bronco (model J609 & T609)
The problem is that after replacing the drive belt, the motor stops when
I try to engage the PTO lever. Can anyone help me?

john deere 110 starting issues

hey everyone, got some issues with my first older mower. its a 1970-72 john deere 110 with a k181 engine. to make it easier im going to put the problems in the order they happen haha

First problem: turn the key and the engine turns and turns and turns, but will almost never start up. like it isnt getting a spark. when it does start it runs great but im terrified to turn it off, seeing as it probably wont start back up

problem 2: after trying repeatedly to start it(and failing), it decides that it doesnt want to do anything at all. and i mean nothin'. the only thing that moves is the battery gauge

problem 3: oh boy, i finally got it running this is gunna be great!!! 5 minutes in it turns itself off. seems like its bogging itself out or running out of gas. sometimes i can catch it by either A: shaking the battery or B: pressing the clutch for about 30 seconds. but half the time im not able to catch it.

this is my first mower and im already in love with it. i just want it to work properly. can anyone give some advice and help me get this antique back on the lawn?

kohler k181s starting issues

hey everyone, got some issues with my first older mower. its a 1970 john deere 110 with a k181s engine. to make it easier im going to put the problems in the order they happen haha

First problem: turn the key and the engine turns and turns and turns, but will almost never start up. like it isnt getting a spark. when it does start it runs great but im terrified to turn it off, seeing as it probably wont start back up

problem 2: after trying repeatedly to start it(and failing), it decides that it doesnt want to do anything at all. and i mean nothin'. the only thing that moves is the battery gauge

problem 3: oh boy, i finally got it running this is gunna be great!!! 5 minutes in it turns itself off. seems like its bogging itself out or running out of gas. sometimes i can catch it by either A: shaking the battery or B: pressing the clutch for about 30 seconds. but half the time im not able to catch it.

this is my first mower and im already in love with it. i just want it to work properly. can anyone give some advice and help me get this antique back on the lawn?

lawn mower electric start and manual pull cord start stopped working at the same time

My Craftsman electric start and manual start both stopped working at the same time. It is a Craftsman model 88776 self propelled electric ignition and manual pull start 190cc brigss and straton motor. What can be wrong. It started right up and I moved for about 15 minutes, I stopped to get something to drink, came back and both the electric ignition and manual pull start would not work. What happened?

New IS 3200, disappointed, need advice

I bought a new Ferris IS 3200 61" this spring. Had a John Deere 265 Lawn Tractor 17 hp with a 46" deck for the last 15 years. I wanted to cut down my mowing time, which I did, however, this thing is hard to get used to.
I have about 4 acres with lots of trees, small and large, and I thought then zero turn would solve my proiblems. It does turn circles fast, but the 26" tires are tearing up my lawn, and grabbing my shrubs and bushes and running over the low limbs that get pulled in by the big rear tires.
The extra width of the deck allows the blades to find rock and roots that were never a problem before (mowing height is set at 3"). It is also scalping areas where there is a slight roll or hill.
The ROPS is way too high, even when folded, and hits tree limbs if I'm not very careful. I'm thinking of shortening the ROPS or removing it.
I think this machine would be awsome mowing large flat fields, but I'm having difficulty with my lawn.
This machine is really fast, and has a pretty comfortable ride, 2 things I was looking for, but I feel I over bought. I think I'd have been better off with a 54" diesle lawn tractor, or maybe a 4 wheel steer unit. Due to the price of the Ferris, I don't feel I can walk away from and sell it for anywhere near what I paid. Any advice or recomendantions on the above issues are appreciated.

Buying a new mower

Looking to buy a used mower. Would like either a walk behind or a riding tractor, and must be 36" or bigger. Price range is around $1200. Any recomendations? What should i be looking for in a mower?

Need Help/Advice with Troy-Bilt Lawnmower

Hey all. Spring is here and I'm starting up on projects again that have been lurking in my garage. I've already fixed my 2nd, back-up snowblower and my neighbor's snowblower which quit half-way through winter, and I rebuilt my tiller carburetor. Now I'm working on my lawnmower. It's a Troy-Bilt(MTD), variable speed, self-propelled lawnmower, Model # 12AV839N711. A "few" years ago the power drive mechanism(transmission) stopped working. I was told by MTD when I contacted them that the "transmission" wasn't serviceable and I needed to buy a new transmission. Anyway, I fixed what was wrong with it, which were multiple problems. The "D" hole in the belt pulley was stripped and it was spinning on the shaft. I was able to order one. The seals were all leaking and I was able to get those, too. The "fork" fingers that slides the plastic gear over onto the input shaft was worn enough so that it didn't move the gear enough to engage the power shaft. I was able to add weld onto the fork fingers and re-machine the surfaces. I have a new belt for it, too. Anyways, I am now reassembling the transmission.

This brings me to my problem. I don't know what type of lubrication to put into the transmission. I also don't know how much lubrication to put into the transmission. I have done multiple, extensive searches and have found nothing. I also contacted MTD and was told by them, again, that the transmission is not serviceable. They would not tell me what oil to use or how much. There is nothing listed in my manual about the transmission lubricant other than a line that says something like, "The transmission is lubricated at the factory and does not require any periodic lubrication".

I remember when I first took the transmission apart that the oil was "silvery" and had a "gritty feel to it. I don't know if that is how it originally was or if the silver color and grit was from the metal that was worn off from the fork fingers.

Does anyone have any information on the type and amount of lube for this lawnmower? Thanks

2002 hustler

started with no spark. replaced right (black) coil.and it fired right up. replaced left (grey ) coil and it wont fire now. What da fu
HELP

Two Kawasaki Engines that Dip and Surge at Idle

I have two pieces of equipment with Kawasaki V-Twin engines and both are not running to my satisfaction. They seem to dip and surge at idle, particularly at startup. It seems to me that they might have the same problem, but I can't be sure. I have a feeling that both are recovering from instances of "the ethanol in the gas" that occurrded in their past, but I don't know the history of the 18 HP well enough to be sure.

Rather than try to describe what they are doing, I took some video (although the audio is what's important)

A 15 HP Kawasaki on a DR Brushmower
https://youtu.be/xO2dHiSzG5s

A 18 HP Kawasaki on a Johne Deere GT235
https://youtu.be/Y9771_KnhVc

I would appreciate any input on things to check. I pretty much disassembled and reassembled the carb on the 15 HP last summer and it didn't have any effect - good or bad. I will certainly post my findings if I figure out how to fix this issue.

Thanks,

Steve

Mower deck Engine pulley hits deck when trying to disengage blades

I have a MTD 1998 Yard Machine 13A S679G 062.
Took the deck off and reattached. All connections look ok.
However, engaging and disengaging the blades is a problem.
When attempting to disengage the blades, the deck hits the engine pulley.
Also, attempting to lower or raise the lever is difficult and I can hear springs popping.
Is this due to the incorrect position of the disengagement rod?
Where is the threaded end of the rod supposed to fit?
If I find where the threaded end fits, which way am I supposed to twist it to solve this problem?
Or am I on the wrong track?
Thanks.

Simplicity mower won't start

Hi everyone. I'm new here and hope to gain some knowledge and perhaps solve a problem I have. I recently bought a used Simplicity riding mower. The model number is 1691931 if that helps. A new battery was installed, the fuel and oil were drained and replaced since it had been sitting for quite some time. When we got it home it started right up but was in need of fuel. My father-in-law was filling the gas tank while talking and not paying attention he had completely overfilled it and now it will not start. I'm not much of a mechanic at all so I'm hoping someone can give me some advice on what to do. Thank you in advance.

Craftsman head light lens

Hi Guys,

I haven't posted is some time and thought I would send a question your way. I still have a 1996 Craftsman Garden Tractor and now in need of a lens for the headlights. Last season while picking up leaves the lens fell off and I ended up driving over it with the mower. Now, I already checked at Sears and this part is no longer available. The tractor model is 917.251492. I have been looking on line for used parts but I haven't found anything yet. Any help would be appreciated. My only other option is to make my only insert out of metal and insert a few driving lights.

Thanks
Paul

MontgomeryWard(Gilson) Model#GIL33045C

I inherited this machine with no Operator Manual, Parts List or Repair Manual. It is 14 HP, Variable Speed Lawn Tractor. Was new in the early 70's. Right now, it runs fine, but the mower deck is not installed and I need specifications for the MOWER DRIVE BELT. Of course, I would like to acquire any paperwork available.

Mower deck Honda 1011 Riding Mower Leveling Deck?

I have a Honda 1011 rear-engine riding mower. It is not cutting evenly. Anyone know how to level it, or could this be a blade issue? Have owned the mower since new and have had this problem in the past. Had the professionals handle it but the problem comes back.
Thanks

Briggs 500e OHV push engine

I picked up 2 mowers at the scrap yard yesterday. One Murray had this engine on it. The frame was broken and the starter wouldn't catch but I got it anyway. I spray some WD40 on the pawl that engages the flywheel and got it working, sort of. The entire starter assembly is plastic, not a plastic cover over a metal one. It's held down by three small bolts but one of the nuts they thread into had broke out of this one. The whole starter housing was flexing a lot but I managed to get it cranked and it ran alright. I put it on another frame but need to figure out some way to get a third bolt in that housing. I am disappointed in Briggs for this plastic starter assembly. Thought some of you'll might want to see it, this is the first one I have had. Looks like my pictures are to large.
Cannon

Price Check lawnboy model 8231,What is value

I have my Dad"s Lawnboy Mower, good shape but has not been run in years. What is a value for sale? Have the Catcher Bag & bracket etc. Location Ohio.
e mail:ch60rm@gmail.com

My babys sick!

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Ok gents got a problem for you to help me with with my old 285 mod JohnDeere
Quick general history,Tractor looks as new ,always serviced by dealer.Problem started year ago with overheating after 10 min of use.Been back to dealer 4 times with same problem.They did following,2 new thermostates,radiator flushes, 3 times,new hoses,New waterpump,New heat senser,New radiator caps,2 times,New heads 2 times,Finally removed engine replaced gaskets thruout engine.Engine starts up and runs as new for 10 min before overheating still.I never let it boil over been shut down always when indicator starts to get to warm.Dealer has givin up they dont know what else to do,so i,ll give it to the experts.By the way Its John deere 285 as stated,S/N MOO285BO21672.Thanks,Paul

1970 john deere 110 starting issues

hey everyone, got some issues with my first older mower. its a 1970 john deere 110 with a k181 engine. to make it easier im going to put the problems in the order they happen haha

First problem: turn the key and the engine turns and turns and turns, but will almost never start up. like it isnt getting a spark. when it does start it runs great but im terrified to turn it off, seeing as it probably wont start back up

problem 2: after trying repeatedly to start it(and failing), it decides that it doesnt want to do anything at all. and i mean nothin'. the only thing that moves is the battery gauge

problem 3: oh boy, i finally got it running this is gunna be great!!! 5 minutes in it turns itself off. seems like its bogging itself out or running out of gas. sometimes i can catch it by either A: shaking the battery or B: pressing the clutch for about 30 seconds. but half the time im not able to catch it.

this is my first mower and im already in love with it. i just want it to work properly. can anyone give some advice and help me get this antique back on the lawn?

17.5 Intek Head scratcher!!

Howdy folks

Having one of those days!!... have a John Deere with a 17.5 on board with some minor jobs needed, now :).....

Mower sounded a little rough and hard to turn over so I went to valves and adjusted as battery was given me a healthy reading.

It is still hard to turn over so I go to solenoid with power coming in at 12v ish, Out reading to starter only gives me a reading of 4/5...when powered on bench the solenoid has continuity with click :)...

Never had a solenoid go weak always just go completely.....is it possible???.....any advise much appreciated:confused3:

Edit : If I jump the mower it will fire up and will continue do so while in use....but leave for an hour or so it wont....also I checked battery when running and its at 13.3 ish so charging i guess...if I cross terminals on solenoid it still wont turn starter enough.

Michael

Older hustler fastrak

I am picking up a mower I found at a mower shop tomorrow. It was a trade in. The owner had it serviced there every year. He cut 1 acre residentially. The drive belt gave in and he decided to get a new mower. Its a 2003 hustler fastrak 2052. They are replacing the drive belt , sharpen blades/oil change/filter etc and cleaning it up. Im hoping to get a few good years out of it. I cant find a lot of info about them. Does anyone have specs? The 20 hp honda engine pretty solid? Anything to watch for? Preventative maintenance? Thanks!

Poulan Tractor Model Number PR185H42STG

Are the mower blades interchangable for a Poulan and a Poulan Pro?

Craftsman lt1000 won't move

I have a 2009 craftsman lt1000 with hydrostatic transmission that will not move. Some people have told me to push in a wire on the back but there is no wire present. Not helping that there is no information to be be found online for my model number 944.601883 or a tractor with a 20hp Briggs motor.

Help! My grass won't stop growing!!

Swisher 44" blades won't engage

I just had this mower serviced 2 weeks ago. Started to mow acreage in upstate NY. Took down lots of 1-2" wild rose bushes up to 6' high. Everything going great until I noticed after mowing about 2 hours that the grass wasn't being cut. I took it apart and saw the belt had slipped off of the pulleys. I put the belt back on and started to mow again. The blades still wouldn't engage! It was so hot out and I didn't have the energy to take it all apart again. Do you think I should just replace the belt? I did some research and saw that other people seemed to have this problem also. Someone suggested a Kevlar belt for less issues. I also saw that some people had problems with the blades freezing up. How do I prevent this from happening? What do you all think? It's too hard to load the Swisher onto my 5' x 10' trailer again. Such low clearance that it keeps getting held up on ramp. Only got it on by putting moving dollies under it.
Any ideas are greatly appreciated! Thanks!

2008 TORO LX426 CV Tranny

Did anyone ever run across an issue with their CV transmissions? I'd assume that its a single gear trans-axle/gearbox with CV sheave on the engine shaft? I'm not in possession of this machine as of yet so cannot speak serial #'s. All I know is that "it won't move" and was wondering about most likely the cause of failure?

Repairs electric clutch

Have an older "Indy 500" Series lawn tractor. Motor runs & starts but the electric clutch won't engage. Put in new switch, still won't work. Ran wires from battery to electric clutch & it will click like its trying to engage. Would appreciate any suggestions. Bought a new battery for this, hope I can get it going. Thanks!

hrx217kvka blade won't disengage

Just got this non running mower. Was supposed to need carb work but I've discovered the blade won't disengage so I need a little advice. The handle pulls the cable and the arm moves but doesn't appear to be working. I have no idea

Craftsman 917.378270 is making popping sound and won't start

Let me start by saying I am not a mechanic or claim to be and just want my grass to be able to be mowed.


So I have been having problems with this mower for the past month and it wants to start sometimes and work and then was shutting off and would not restart for a couple hours. I researched some issues I was having and chalked it up as a dirty carburetor and fuel bowl, so I took it off and cleaned it. I put it back together and then topped the oil off because it was reading a little low and may have added a little too much as I was stupidly not being cautious. The lawnmower started right up after a few tries and then proceeded to run for about 15 minutes before just shutting off. After this occurred, every time I tried to start the mower and it made a popping sound and it omitted smoke out of the muffler and did not start. After getting the same result while trying every 10-15 minutes for a couple hours I noticed that the muffler had oil in it and that it was dripping out, but the air filter was bone dry on the other side of the carburetor. Long story short I took the plastic casing off the top of the mower and turned it by hand and can hear oil slosh around and it comes to the muffler, or at least I can tell oil. I have no idea what to do and do not have the money to take it to a repair shop at the moment and don't really want to because the mower is very old to begin with.

My question is, is this an easy fix or something that novice cannot even come close to fixing? If it is going to be expensive or a major job, I will probably chalk up my losses and buy a used mower locally. Any help is greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance.


Edit:Here's a pic of what it is, not mine, but same mower..I think it's a 1990. (couldn't insert image because it was too big)
http://ift.tt/1ewyhCz

Valve clearance max 4hp

As the title really just got a Hayter mower with the above engine, would like to know the valve clearance`s if any one knows them, also the type of plug and gap.

Toro Lawn Mower

I have a TORO model 20016 with 6.5hp Tecumser motor. It has been difficult to start. The primer bulb did not seem to be working so I primed it by hand and it would eventually start, run for a minute then stop. After doing this a few times it would eventually stay running. I read about cleaning the carburetor bolt and did this with no results. The gas is new, filter clean, and good flow to the carburetor, new spark plug and air filter.I finally bought a new carburetor and it is exactly the same ?

Repairs Snapper 381450 HBVE R.E.R stalls when blade engaged

I am having a couple problems with the old girl. First off is it won't start with the key any more. It only clicks. But, I can pull start it sometimes.

The biggest problem is that now when I get it started and put it into gear I can drive all over. But as soon as I engage the blades... she dies. I'm fairly certain that it is one of the switches but there are 3 switches and an interlock on my wiring diagram and no explanation as to what they are for. What is the procedure to troubleshoot this problem?

Thanks,
John

Governor Rod, normal "Flatted shaft" orientation, normal degrees of rotation

Howdy from Virginia folks. A neighbor brought me his OLDER Honda Harmony HRM215HXA complaining of a constant low rpm with no ability to increase rpm with throttle control. It is powered by the GXV-140 (serial- GJAB-413285).

After going through all the maintenance PMs and control plate adjustments I noticed the governor lever was not opening the throttle butterfly WOT to increase the engine rpm in FAST throttle control position, just as blessed neighbor described. I removed the governor lever and noticed the governor rod could be pushed into the engine case and rotated into a new position. The governor rod has a flat at the exterior end. The "as found" position had the governor rod flat aligned horizontally. The window of rotation was restricted to only a few degrees rotation (5-10 maybe?).

For grins and giggles, I pushed the governor rod into the housing a bit and rotated it CCW into a seemingly alternate position within the crankcase. The window of rotation in this "new position" gave me a 90 degree range of rotation from 270 degrees CW to 360 degrees. Not having Superman vision and not being able to see through the aluminum housing I'm flying blind on getting the governor rod properly positioned.

Thus my questions, what is the proper alignment relative to the governor rod/shaft "flat" and what range of rotation can I expect to see? I'm trying to do the governor shaft adjustment so I can get to setting the high end rpm.

Thanks!

How old is my walker mower?

How can I tell how when my walker lawn mower was built.Is there a chart to go by ? It is a Walker MTGHS 48" serial #08-92432 . I need a Blower wheel and don't know which one to order. Need help with this.

Using spacers between engine and mower deck

Hi,

I bought a new engine (173cc predator) to replace the one that died on my very old Craftmans (model 917-380231) push mower. The problem is that the shaft of the new engine is 2" longer than that of the old engine. Can I use 2" metal spacers between the engine and the mower deck to compensate for the longer shaft? Is a 2" gap unsafe (do I risk get hit by rocks or other debris that is projected through the gap by the blade?)

Thanks for any help

JB

first ridding mower 15 hr briggs dynamark

every day is a defiant challenge ... i know others have bigger more difficult issues than me ,but those people would say ur cursed to death! but any ways , 15 hr briggs & stratton dynamark $50 ,yes older , will need some work , i like fixen on things..... so runs ok needs a little cosmetic faded red paint looks pink ,cant read some stickers, so on. went to mow dose good , then barring blew on left blade shaft damit here we go , snapped a couple bolts had to torch one off (bearing case) re built both, hell lets give it some paint... black & green left what stickers i could . looks really good. throes belt! damit! well some one has messed with it before , crap, the shaft pulley was welded on poorly like when old wild turkey 101 tells me i can do Anything! haft way through bottle! tighten bolt down ,replaced springs one broke ... working good again cool ,NOT! SHAFT Breaks !!! s.o.a.b!!!! So tare down time. Everything looks good. I think i was the first to see inside sense put together the first time lots of carbon build up, clean it up put $200 Dam part in got anxious usually never good, skipped carb used lg. zip tie to put n rings , might of broke one? painted through it all back together!!! battery shot. grab one out of 87 honda civic, starts up all over the place cant get er dun . Damit. some one says 180" out . ok (I never worked on inside of any engine before) 5 times i pulled that mother off thinking timing was wrong one cylinder wtf . the best i got was a ear ringing back fire. took it to some one, set timing. stats up , all over the place AGAIN, so about had it. he said just readjust carb. now back lawn is about 3' i weed eated & pushed mowed allllll n about 15 hrs (3 days) so back to it . tare down carb bent idle needle , float readjusted , flushed out really good. looking for rings & carb kit local auto parts $30 for rings! Ha.keep looking..........any ideas before i burn it down?............sorry got a little carried away theremower ..jpg

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What is this plastic thing on the shaft of my Stihl FS-90?

I'm referring to the thing between the "D" handle and the "on/off" switch.

I just bought the trimmer last week. The trimmer works great. But if I pick it up by that plastic thing to carry it, the trimmer spins around in a position that I don't want it to be? I'm thinking about just taking it off.

Kohler XT 675 ignition module?

Hello. I am new to this forum, so excuse me if I ask something already answered. I have a year old Toro Recycler with the Kohler XT 675 engine. I bought this late in the Fall and did not get a chance to use it last year. It would not start the first time out this year. After some basic troubleshooting, I purchased a new ignition module. The mower started right up, and performed well. Same thing the second usage a week later. But, a few weeks later, when I got it out, it would not start. It is giving the same symptoms as before. I reset the gap on the ignition module, cleaned a plug that really didn't need it, checked the fuel lines. Signs point to the ignition module-again. Is there a way to check this part, as I really cant see the part only being good for 2 mows of a standard yard. I like this mower, but it needs to run to be of use. Any help is greatly appreciated! Thanks.....Jim

Honda 3813 tractor how do you grease mower deck spindels.

Hi I have a Honda 3813 tractor . I do not have an owners manual. I've looked but don't see any zurk fittings on the upper portion of the deck spindels . Any buddy out there have experince with these? Also when you put the mower in gear it pauses for about 10 seconds before it moves , any adustments to be made here? Thanks to all

Fuel rtz 50 zero turn engine cuts out????

I HAVE A RTZ 50 ZERO TURN FROM 2007 SO IT STARTS UP RUNS GREAT FOR ABOUT 10 MINS THEN CUTS OFF LIKE IT RAN OUT OF GAS BUT STILL HAS GAS IN THE TANK IT WILL TURN OVER AND START BUT WILL NOT STAY ON. IF I LET IT SIT FOR A DAY IT WILL DO THE SAME THING. SO DO U THING i NEED A NEW PUMP OR I HEARD OF FUEL LINES SWELLING UP.

yard cruiser smokes sometimes

snapper Z rider, yard cruiser. 14.5 hp B&S. It runs great but it has got where it smokes on and off. lite blue smoke. Can be running along and it will start smoking for a couple of mins. then stop smoking then it does it again. thanks Joe.

Repairs NEW TRACTION DRIVE CABLE REPLACEMENT ON 14SB MOWER IS TOO LONG (GX21634)

I am trying to replace the original traction drive cable (AM106051) which has been replaced by GX21634. The new cable is too long and does not seem to fit.
I cannot find anything that addresses this problem on the internet or John Deere DTAC. Has anyone else come across this situation?

Ferris Dual Drive 48 wont start.

Ok so we pull up to our last house on Monday to mow. We try to start the mower and it will not start. It sounds like it wants to and nothing. Machine has spark and compression. Fuel is getting to the carb and the carb has suction. Not sure what else to try. Occasionally when we try to start it will have a pop come out the Carb. I am not sure if this could be a fly wheel problem or not. When we pull the cord to try and start it pulls kind of hard. It has the Kawaski FC420V engine on it and the model # is DDSKA 1579. Any help would be appreciated.

Spitting and Sputtering

Okay, I have a Briggs and Stratton 3.75HP push mower. It was spitting & sputtering, so I cleaned the filter and replaced the spark plug (twice). It still spits & sputters until it gets near empty on gas, then it runs great until it's empty. I ran it until I got near empty and then filled it up hoping that would help... it didn't. It gets to the point that i can hear the blades hitting the grass as it's running. If I tilt the mower back on a 45 degree angle it'll run fine until I level it off. Can anyone help a guy that really doesn't have a clue on combustible motors?

Need help with Craftsman Briggs Stratton 15.5 Spins but wont start after it quit.

Sorry about that long title, here's the story. I'm mowing the lawn and I hear a fwump like the blades caught some dirt then the mower dies and winds down. After that it will not start only spins and does that wind down thing... (see video). I have done a visual on the flywheel key and it is still in place. Also one of the blades was loose (eek) when I looked under the deck. (tightened that right up) any ideas would be greatly appreciated...

https://youtu.be/1rUeLhgaiGk

replacing scag spindles

Anyone have advise on replacing spindles on a scag tiger cub? Spindles have slight play or slop to them. I attempted to remove hub and key and pulley from spindle and they are froze on solid. Never got past removing the 2 hub bolts. Can't pry, would damage pulley. Is there some trick to this I'm unaware of? Advise is welcomed and much appreciated.:thumbsup:

10515 lower oil seal

I'm attempting to replace the lower oil seal on my 10515. It looks like the something is missing as the seal slides onto the crankshaft but there is nothing to hold it in place as the opening is much larger than the OD of the seal.
Here is an image copied from another thread with the same problem:

lbseal.png



It looks like the bearing is missing although the engine has never been disassembled, am the original owner.
Thoughts, ideas anyone?

Thanks,
John

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JOHN DEERE F 910 W/ ONAN ENGINE

I have a john deere f910 mower

All of a sudden the mower engine quit running and we cannot get it started back. I think that we have checked the safety switches but may not be sure of all of them. can anyone help us with something else to check or a possible solution.

thank you

mower with tuff Torq K57

I am shopping for a riding mower that has a Tuff Torq K57 transmission or equal. Most mower specs do not list the brand nor model of transmission. Any help as to brands or models is appreciated.

Repairs Toro SS3200 - Something Funny Going On With Brake Actuator

I have a 2011 or 2012 Toro SS3200 zero-turn mower. Out of the blue, something happened and I can't figure out what's going on.

First, the battery was dead after I had used the mower a week before, when the battery seemed to be fine. After charging the battery, the mower started just fine. However, when I engaged the motion control levers, the mower wouldn't budge and seemed to power out. I did some research, and figured out that the electric brake was on. Then, strangely, when I turned off the ignition key, the mower kept running. I got up off the seat and pulled the control lever in and the engine stopped.

I manually reset the brake link arms connected to the electric brake actuator module. I started the mower again, and again when I engaged the control levers, the mower wouldn't budge and powered out. I checked the brake link arms and they had reset again to the "brake" position. Again, the ignition switch wouldn't shut off the engine.

I pulled the panel off with the ignition switch, checked the fuses (they were good), and pulled the switch. I checked the switch's continuity per the online service manual, and all the continuity checks were good. The seat switch works.

I since replaced the battery and that didn't solve anything (that was probably a waste of money).

I'm stumped. Is it the brake actuator module? Is there a short somewhere that drained the battery and is causing the other problems?

I hope someone with experience on the SS Toro zero-turns has some tips for me. I'd like to fix it myself and I hate to just throw parts at it. Thanks in advance for any advice!

2014 and 2015 Comparison

Is there any appreciable differences between the 2014 and 2015 MT model tractors? Looking at the specs for the two model years, it appears that there is a slight difference in horsepower and torque. Is there something I'm missing?
Thanks,
Rj

917.370930 walk behind 22" b&s 7.25 rear wheel drive craftsman

I'm changing the drive belt on this and can't remember how the spring "gearbox to baffle" goes back on. The way it looks tho is that it would rub with the gear box cable and I can't figure where it plugs in to. All I remember is that when I took the baffle off the spring was attached to the baffle. Any descriptive help or diagrams or photos would be appreciated. Thanks!

Lawn Boy overheating

I just rebuilt this Lawn Boy 10202 from the ground up. It runs but overheats like it's running lean. I tightened everything up. I think this is suppose to use 32:1 but I got the 40:1 ethanol free premix. With the throttle fully open it has a brrrr sound. Do I need to adjust the governor or the jet screw? I run a part time Lawn Mower Repair business and someone gave this to me. I don't really use it for cutting but just a collection. Attached are before and after pictures.

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How do I remove this pinion and bearing?

I have a Tanaka THT-2000 hedge trimmer which the owner left out in the rain. Water got into the gear case and rusted-up the drive pinion bearing. It's taken several days of soaking with penetrating oil and "gentle persuasion" to free it off. It's turning now but it's rough & notchy and needs replacing. Problem is, I can't get the darn thing out.

With it being set in an aluminium (aluminum) case I daren't clamp it too tight nor hit it too hard, nor can I heat up the ally case to expand it. You can see on the reverse side of the case is the clutch drum, so I presume the bearing can only come out in one direction.

How do I extract the damaged bearing without wrecking the gear case in the process?

Tanaka gearcase 1.jpgTanaka gearcase 2.jpgTanaka gearcase 3.jpgTanaka gearcase parts.png

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Two Stroke Synthetic Oil

Good news and surprise that suddenly Poulan synthetic oil appears after several years absence. On line I could not find anything previously except blends and racing stuff. There it was on Wally's shelf. Used it for 10 years . Should fly off the shelf.

Looking for a new self propelled, opinions please!

Hey everyone. I am in the market for a new self propelled mower. I will be buying a rider soon but for right now I am stuck with being able to afford a walk behind, once I get the rider I will keep the pusher for a backup and to get into areas where the rider won't go, so I need something that will be durable and last.

I am looking at a few different brands and models but I have no idea what's going to work best for me. I had a Honda before, it had the GCV160 engine one it, I paid $400 for it. The mower worked extremely well, it started up and cut better than just about anything I have ever had. I replaced blades frequently and never knew why. It started to have some issues the longer I used it, the self propelled wasn't pulling that well and it had a vibration. At this point I hadn't used it in a little while, my wife decided to cut the grass while I was at work each time and I never got to use the mower. I took the mower to the dealer where I bought it for warranty on these issues. They called me and told me that warranty was denied because the mower had been "abused" I started yelling at them on the phone because I never abused the mower, it was washed, top and bottom each time I cut with it, oil changed every other cut, and so on.. They explained that the blades were worn almost completely away, the underside of the deck was worn away, and the crankshaft was bent. He asked me if I had dirt spots in my yard, I told him I did and he proceeded to explain that when you go over the dirt it gets pulled up into the blades and causes the damage that I had, as far as the shaft goes he said it was from hitting something.. I have a few buried rocks in my yard and get the occasional ding when going over them, I also have a gravel driveway and sometimes loose pieces get pulled into the mower in the grass. As it turns out, as I mentioned above my wife was using the mower when I was not home, apparently she has a theory that mowing over bare dirt areas makes grass grow, so she was getting out there and mowing the dirt causing the damage. I also recall her clearing an area of our yard that was overgrown with it, probably causing the damage to the crank.

I told you all of that to say this, I am really leaning toward another Honda, I have a fear though of bending the crank, I am reading things all over the net about these shafts bending, and I know first hand it can happen and costs as much to repair as the mower costs new. The sales person at the dealer I bought the last one from failed to tell me that the commercial mowers (with dark gray deck) have a hardened shaft whereas the normal (light gray deck) has a softer alloy shaft. I am not in a position to afford the better model at this time, so it would be another of the lower models, most likely the model hrr216. I am wondering if Honda has done anything to adress the crank shaft issue? Or is it still a problem, even with the brand new ones?

My yard is about 1.5 acres but the front is extremely hilly, very steep. There are bald spots which will get ran over, there are some rocks, both bigger buried ones and smaller loose ones. I told this to the sales guy, he said nothing but when I told it to the service guy he said the mower I bought was a bad choice! I mentioned the yard so that you guys would have an idea of what I am trying to do as I am hoping you can give me some advice on which mower to go with..

Here are the ones I am looking at

The Honda of course, Honda 21 in. 3-in-1 Variable Speed Self-Propelled Gas Mower with Auto Choke-HRR216K9VKA - The Home Depot

Toro recycler, there are 3 models, one with AWD, one with elec start, and one with blade stop. I am leaning toward the blade stop model Toro Recycler 22 in. All-Wheel Drive Personal Pace Variable Speed Self-Propelled Gas Lawn Mower with Briggs & Stratton Engine-20353 - The Home Depot

This Husky, but it has the same Honda engine Shop Husqvarna HU700H 160cc 22-in Self-Propelled High Rear Wheel Drive 3-in-1 Gas Push Lawn Mower with Honda Engine and Mulching Capability at Lowes.com

This Husky with a Briggs Shop Husqvarna HU725AWD 190cc 22-in Self-Propelled All-Wheel Drive 3-in-1 Gas Push Lawn Mower with Briggs & Stratton Engine and Mulching Capability at Lowes.com

Craftsman with Briggs platinum engine Craftsman 190cc Briggs & Stratton Platinum Series Engine, 22" All-Wheel Drive Lawn Mower - Lawn & Garden - Lawn Mowers - Self-Propelled Lawn Mowers

And finally, this Cub Cadet. http://ift.tt/1LHcfYX

I am looking to go and get one tomorrow, I have been mowerless for a couple of months now and since I have the money in hand I am ready to buy. Hopefully someone can reply tonight and advise which one of the ones above would be best, or if you have any other suggestions I am all ears, as you can see I am looking in the $399 neighborhood. Thank you for any help or advice!

International Harvester Lawn-boy in Charlotte

Anybody living near Charlotte NC may want to snag this International Harvester Lawn-boy, I'd buy it if it weren't for the 11 hour drive from Michigan,,,LOL!!

*** ANTIQUE LAWN MOWER & HONDA LAWN MOWER ***

Jeff

Kawasaki 20HP runs 10 minutes then acts like it's starving for gas

I have a Cub Cadet RZT 50 with a 20HP Kohler (Kawasaki) engine. It runs just fine for about 10 minutes then acts like it's starving for gas. It will bog down, run fine, bog down, run fine. It will do this between 10 and 30 seconds until it finally shuts down. Then you have to let it rest for about 5 minutes. It will start up and run fine anywhere from 2 minutes to 10 minutes before it does the same thing all over again. I've replaced the fuel and air filters. I've replaced the fuel pump and cleaned the carb bowls, checked the Gas cap.... Still runs the same... PLEASE HELP!!!

turfcat 523d

Hello . My turfcat 523 d makes a hissing noise when the mower deck height control is set to the float position . Is this normal ? The machine is new to me .

52" scag turf tiger machine bogging down with blades operating

I have recently bought a 52" scag turf tiger whne i first engage the blades whne machine is cold it shuts the whole machine down once up in runnimng the machine lacks power while cutting. Any ideas thinking may need a new clutch thought i would check other advice before i spend the money on it. Thank you

New guy new mower

Just acquired 3 acres to mow so had to get something to save some time. I didnt have a lot to invest , was hoping to spend about 2500 or less. Ended up finding a 2003 Hustler Fastrak that was bought new from the mower shop in 2003. Has been serviced there since. It was used residentially with 1 acre. Roughly 500 hours. Its the 20/52 with a Honda motor. New drive belt sharpened blades oil changed. Paid 1500 for it. Any advice on upkeep and what to loom out for. Hopefully she lasts me a few years. Wonder how long 3 acres will take!?