I'm starting this thread to document my adventures with my Silver Eagle LT2500-50D. So far, I've only posted an introductory thread and one about the electrical gremlins I was experiencing.
Here's a pic from the PO's craigslist ad:
It was pretty darned clean and I found no "wet" leaks. I got maybe one or two cuts out of it before I started having the electrical problems. A corroded fuse socket and melted fuse was keeping the rectifier from charging the battery, the key switch had worn and possibly burnt contacts, and the starter had a failing solenoid. I think these problems were caused by the PO leaving it parked in his carport (exposure to moisture) and installing a battery with insufficient cranking amps. After replacing the key switch, cleaning the fuse holders, replacing fuses, and replacing the battery and starter, I haven't had any problems with starting this thing for the past 2 years. Every weekend, it fires up in less than a second of twisting the key. I've also replaced the belts. Basically, I've re-done everything the previous owner did to "sweeten the deal" when he put it up for sale. He said it had new belts, new battery, and new deck rollers. The belts were some cheap garbage that frayed after the first few cuts and were actually too big, and the deck rollers were too small in diameter. In addition, the deck was bent downward on the LH side, making that roller drag and dig C-shapes everywhere I turned. It looked like someone maybe backed over it with a truck or something. A few months ago, I removed and tore down the deck to repair this.
I didn't get a "before" pic, but you can see how much metal I had to remove to get all the bent/warped portions out:
Used 10 gauge plate I had laying around to reconstruct the top and front. I made a few passes on the front top edge so I'd have enough metal to shape it to match the curve of the original stamped metal. That dark area on the top behind the roller bracket isn't a low spot in the metal, the primer was still wet there. I did a better job on blending the new metal-to-old metal joints where it would be exposed and not hidden under the black plate that bolts over it:
Painted and reassembled. Like it never even happened:
I found some OEM DC deck rollers from a place in Florida, and made some new roller bolts from extra long carriage bolts.
Here's a pic from the PO's craigslist ad:
It was pretty darned clean and I found no "wet" leaks. I got maybe one or two cuts out of it before I started having the electrical problems. A corroded fuse socket and melted fuse was keeping the rectifier from charging the battery, the key switch had worn and possibly burnt contacts, and the starter had a failing solenoid. I think these problems were caused by the PO leaving it parked in his carport (exposure to moisture) and installing a battery with insufficient cranking amps. After replacing the key switch, cleaning the fuse holders, replacing fuses, and replacing the battery and starter, I haven't had any problems with starting this thing for the past 2 years. Every weekend, it fires up in less than a second of twisting the key. I've also replaced the belts. Basically, I've re-done everything the previous owner did to "sweeten the deal" when he put it up for sale. He said it had new belts, new battery, and new deck rollers. The belts were some cheap garbage that frayed after the first few cuts and were actually too big, and the deck rollers were too small in diameter. In addition, the deck was bent downward on the LH side, making that roller drag and dig C-shapes everywhere I turned. It looked like someone maybe backed over it with a truck or something. A few months ago, I removed and tore down the deck to repair this.
I didn't get a "before" pic, but you can see how much metal I had to remove to get all the bent/warped portions out:
Used 10 gauge plate I had laying around to reconstruct the top and front. I made a few passes on the front top edge so I'd have enough metal to shape it to match the curve of the original stamped metal. That dark area on the top behind the roller bracket isn't a low spot in the metal, the primer was still wet there. I did a better job on blending the new metal-to-old metal joints where it would be exposed and not hidden under the black plate that bolts over it:
Painted and reassembled. Like it never even happened:
I found some OEM DC deck rollers from a place in Florida, and made some new roller bolts from extra long carriage bolts.
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