Hi, I'm new to the forum and here to get help with repowering my father's Deere 57 riding mower.
Here's the problem, more background below:
The crank seems to rest with the governor drive gear directly on top of the boss around the lower crank bearing in the sump and the interference seems to be about 1/8in. If I flip the engine and push up on the flywheel side of the crank with the case bolts out then the sump pan moves up off the block about 1/8 and there are clear marks from the oil pump drive on the lower bearing boss face. So, when I tighten the bolts and turn the engine right-side-up the crank bearing boss is lifting the crank up about 1/8. This is a zero-hour engine, never run outside the factory.
But...full disclosure time. This is a brand new engine but it's been apart. I bought it last year from one of the online dealers, got started on the project and then had to put it aside. (Mowing season was over anyway.) Over the winter someone decided it would be a good idea to put the mower outside with no cover and the engine, which was partially open, ended up with water in the sump. I felt like the only thing to do was take it down and check for flash rust inside. I also removed the starter as stator at this time but those have been the only mods.
Basically I took the engine apart, went away for two weeks and then put it back together. No that it's together again I've either left something out or it's designed to be self-machining. I've looked at online parts diagrams and I don't seem to be missing anything on or around the crank but I'm scratching my head here.
Two other questions.
Do the timing marks go with the crank dot between the cam dots or one ahead? I read in one source that Tecumseh OHV engines had the crank dot ahead by one but that seems odd.
Does the oil pump go on with the bevel down, facing the one on the sump? That's what seemed right to me but I wasn't positive. And do these plastic pumps last?
Thanks for any help!
Here's the problem, more background below:
The crank seems to rest with the governor drive gear directly on top of the boss around the lower crank bearing in the sump and the interference seems to be about 1/8in. If I flip the engine and push up on the flywheel side of the crank with the case bolts out then the sump pan moves up off the block about 1/8 and there are clear marks from the oil pump drive on the lower bearing boss face. So, when I tighten the bolts and turn the engine right-side-up the crank bearing boss is lifting the crank up about 1/8. This is a zero-hour engine, never run outside the factory.
But...full disclosure time. This is a brand new engine but it's been apart. I bought it last year from one of the online dealers, got started on the project and then had to put it aside. (Mowing season was over anyway.) Over the winter someone decided it would be a good idea to put the mower outside with no cover and the engine, which was partially open, ended up with water in the sump. I felt like the only thing to do was take it down and check for flash rust inside. I also removed the starter as stator at this time but those have been the only mods.
Basically I took the engine apart, went away for two weeks and then put it back together. No that it's together again I've either left something out or it's designed to be self-machining. I've looked at online parts diagrams and I don't seem to be missing anything on or around the crank but I'm scratching my head here.
Two other questions.
Do the timing marks go with the crank dot between the cam dots or one ahead? I read in one source that Tecumseh OHV engines had the crank dot ahead by one but that seems odd.
Does the oil pump go on with the bevel down, facing the one on the sump? That's what seemed right to me but I wasn't positive. And do these plastic pumps last?
Thanks for any help!
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